The Official Anything "T-206 Thread"
RayBShotz
Posts: 1,088
This set; endearingly called "The Monster", "The Holy Grail", and "The Set of All Sets", is the foundation of our hobby.
I thought I would share with the Board members how I got here and encourage those of you, out there, who admire the set from afar but see it as unrealistic to ever consider collecting it. I hope to show you it's possible to dive in and enjoy it.
The Digression - I am a child of the late 60's. My baseball card collecting beginnings trace themselves to a start in 1968 with that years Topps issue. It was in 1969 that I really got serious about my collection, dumping a large portion of my paper route money into packs that contained those cards that I loved so much. Baseball and baseball cards were everything to me then.
Fast forward to the late 1990's. With the advent of eBay and the PSA Registry my interest in Baseball cards was rekindled and I set out over the next 6 years to assemble and complete a PSA 1969 Topps set to relive the childhood experience. I've heard the same story told countless times by other hobbyists and here on these Boards as well.
In 2004, after I completed the set I felt a driving need to explore all the sets the hobby had to offer; I'd even done a little bit of this during the 69' quest . I started, accumulated and enjoyed partial set efforts in many different era's including the 80's (84' Donruss), the 70's (77' Topps), the 60's (66' Topps), the 50's (52', 53', 54', 55', 56' Topps), the 40's (48' Bowman), the 30's (33,34 Goudey; 34-36 Diamond Stars), the 20's (I have completed the 1921 Exhibit set; all graded and still own it) the 10's (E90-1, T-206). Each of these brief but exhilirating forays taught me even more about baseball history, the players of each era, and every nuance about each era's great sets. It's been a really cool ride!
Back to T-206.
I always thought it would be just glorious to at least own a few of these cards. My card budget was almost exclusively tied up in my 69's but I still managed to pick up a few "inexpensive" commons and put them aside in my collection during this period. Little did I know that the card journey through the decades would lead me here.
When I sold off the 69's to raise that collectors cash, I was unfocused. You might say that if you look in the dictionary under "Baseball card collector" you will find the meaning; unfocused. Unfocused just means we are buying what we like; and having fun doing it. You can tell yourself that that is ok now.
But as I dissolved partial set after partial set I realized that I was still picking up the occasional T-206 and enjoying it more and more.
Then there came a moment when I realized that owning T-206 cards was magical. There was something inherently "really important and really historic" in the fun I was having with it. When I got my first classic HOF'er from the set; a Dark Cap Christy Mathewson, it literally raised goose bumps on my arm when I got it in my hands for the first time. I couldn't believe I owned this card, and held in my hand this chalice of cardboard history. I was hooked. I've gotten this feeling quite a few more times over again with acquisitions of players like Cobb, McGraw, Evers, Chance and the like.
Why the Thread? There are places like N54 on the web that discuss this set on a continual basis. I am in love with that chatter because I love the set. I consider myself as the average collector. Limited budget, limited time, limited aspirations. But I dream all the same just like the rest of you guys.
I know there are a few of you who visit these Boards regularly who either modestly dabble in this set or dream that "if they could only afford to do it" they would. I am here to tell you it is possible.
In many ways the PSA Registry has driven folks to achieve. Places in a standing, higher GPA's, to buy the finest examples and on and on. With card product from the 60's, 70's, 80's and beyond it is possible to do this and not have the expenditures get totally insane. Most of us are children of this era and we are drawn there.
T-206 transcends this. We all know it's there, always.
We don't collect it because we see those numbers in the SMR and say; "I can't afford that" or "why even bother getting started".
I say, "You can afford it" and "you can get started".
The only way it works is to throw out your old preconceived notions of what is an acceptable quality card. Many low grade examples of older cards retain incredible and almost ethereal eye appeal. They are time machines.
With T-206 it almost seems like the creased card with rounded corners is the natural state. There are high grade examples (albeit unaffordable) but those suckers almost don't even look real! The key for you, the collector, is to embrace this. There are hundreds/thousands of examples of each card from this set that are lower grade but still retain amazing eye appeal. One has to practice the art of acceptance of low grade.
Creases can be strategic or non-strategic. (Through the face of a subject or on the corner or a low or high horizontal). This makes a big difference in eye appeal. Shoot for the non-strategic. (Check out the Green backround Cobb in my set for a PSA 1 example of non-strategic creasing. The cards eye appeal is untainted).
Throw out the preconception that sharp corners are a staple indicator of a nice card. Don't even look at the corners; look at the image.
Often times a tiny spot of paper loss (in the white border, or on the reverse) might drop a card way down in grade; yet the image is flawless.
There are all types of flaws and wear issues that affect lower grade cards that don't necessarily impinge on the cards ability to present in a positive way.
This is especially true of graded cards. Grading Companies are forced to mark a card way down for some of these technical flaws.
Once you get used to this, and drill down to truly enjoying the image, most of the battle has already been won.
So now all of a sudden; you no longer have to depend on paying PSA 4 or higher SMR level prices that you previously felt restricted you from ever giving the set any serious consideration. When you find PSA 1,2,3 examples that look nice "to you" then you are on your way. Get some of these in your hands and see how it transforms you. You can forge ahead and pay reasonable coin at this level (similar to what you pay for high grade 60's, 70's stuff for example) to make real progress and lay a foundation to optimistically move, at least, in the direction of completion.
Keep in mind that the definition of completion and it's timeframe should be softened in your mind. Don't let yourself linger on that or give any thought to what the final dollar value is you need to complete. It will stop you cold in your tracks.
Enjoy the journey, do it for the journey.
A partial T-206 effort is such a monumental and significant achievement that you will feel a wave of euphoria each time you break through that next round number of Completion Percentage. (I'm at almost 40% complete today and honestly have to pinch myself when I think about the enormity of that). This has all been the result of just chipping away, a card at a time with no particular time frame in mind; just the journey.
For all of you guys who are Excel nuts, checklist nuts, variation nuts, back combination nuts, HOF collectors, Team collectors or just guys looking for the most satisfying set building challenge of their lives this set is, and can be, for you.
PSA is a great way to go as well.
Traditonalists will tell you that raw is the only way to go, but if you currently enjoy the Registry and its display and checklist capabilities, and you want to know your cards are "to size" and "authentic", low grade PSA is for you.
I personally love the Registry for its display capabilities. I can visit my cards anytime on line, and others cards as well.
I have met a few other great low grade T206 collectors through the Registry too. We're out there; come join us.
There are a couple of amazing resources that will point you in the right direction. Lew Lipsett wrote the first definitive coverage of the T-206 set in his "Encyclopedia...". There is a recent exhaustive research effort compiled by a long time collector, admirer and follower of the set; Scot Reader. His manuscript is incredible. It has been profiled and excerpted in the SCD over the last few months.
The T206Museum.com is a great starter source for checklisting and backs info.
Lastly, (I know, you are saying, thank god, take a breath Ray...), I thought I would start this thread for anyone who wants to talk about or share ideas about the set. Like I said, serious and important chat about the set goes on elsewhere (N54 for example) as well, but maybe you happen to feel comfortable right here. Keep in mind that there are no dumb questions. There is so much to know and explore with this set that, as a new participant, one generates a gangload of questions real fast.
Scans are always good too! Let's keep this thread lively and alive!
Here's a link to my PSA Registered Set in progress. I hope to be working it for the rest of my collecting life.
Dings, Divots, Creases and Stains - My Beloved T-206's
Thanks to anyone out there who ever encouraged me in this effort.
RayB
I thought I would share with the Board members how I got here and encourage those of you, out there, who admire the set from afar but see it as unrealistic to ever consider collecting it. I hope to show you it's possible to dive in and enjoy it.
The Digression - I am a child of the late 60's. My baseball card collecting beginnings trace themselves to a start in 1968 with that years Topps issue. It was in 1969 that I really got serious about my collection, dumping a large portion of my paper route money into packs that contained those cards that I loved so much. Baseball and baseball cards were everything to me then.
Fast forward to the late 1990's. With the advent of eBay and the PSA Registry my interest in Baseball cards was rekindled and I set out over the next 6 years to assemble and complete a PSA 1969 Topps set to relive the childhood experience. I've heard the same story told countless times by other hobbyists and here on these Boards as well.
In 2004, after I completed the set I felt a driving need to explore all the sets the hobby had to offer; I'd even done a little bit of this during the 69' quest . I started, accumulated and enjoyed partial set efforts in many different era's including the 80's (84' Donruss), the 70's (77' Topps), the 60's (66' Topps), the 50's (52', 53', 54', 55', 56' Topps), the 40's (48' Bowman), the 30's (33,34 Goudey; 34-36 Diamond Stars), the 20's (I have completed the 1921 Exhibit set; all graded and still own it) the 10's (E90-1, T-206). Each of these brief but exhilirating forays taught me even more about baseball history, the players of each era, and every nuance about each era's great sets. It's been a really cool ride!
Back to T-206.
I always thought it would be just glorious to at least own a few of these cards. My card budget was almost exclusively tied up in my 69's but I still managed to pick up a few "inexpensive" commons and put them aside in my collection during this period. Little did I know that the card journey through the decades would lead me here.
When I sold off the 69's to raise that collectors cash, I was unfocused. You might say that if you look in the dictionary under "Baseball card collector" you will find the meaning; unfocused. Unfocused just means we are buying what we like; and having fun doing it. You can tell yourself that that is ok now.
But as I dissolved partial set after partial set I realized that I was still picking up the occasional T-206 and enjoying it more and more.
Then there came a moment when I realized that owning T-206 cards was magical. There was something inherently "really important and really historic" in the fun I was having with it. When I got my first classic HOF'er from the set; a Dark Cap Christy Mathewson, it literally raised goose bumps on my arm when I got it in my hands for the first time. I couldn't believe I owned this card, and held in my hand this chalice of cardboard history. I was hooked. I've gotten this feeling quite a few more times over again with acquisitions of players like Cobb, McGraw, Evers, Chance and the like.
Why the Thread? There are places like N54 on the web that discuss this set on a continual basis. I am in love with that chatter because I love the set. I consider myself as the average collector. Limited budget, limited time, limited aspirations. But I dream all the same just like the rest of you guys.
I know there are a few of you who visit these Boards regularly who either modestly dabble in this set or dream that "if they could only afford to do it" they would. I am here to tell you it is possible.
In many ways the PSA Registry has driven folks to achieve. Places in a standing, higher GPA's, to buy the finest examples and on and on. With card product from the 60's, 70's, 80's and beyond it is possible to do this and not have the expenditures get totally insane. Most of us are children of this era and we are drawn there.
T-206 transcends this. We all know it's there, always.
We don't collect it because we see those numbers in the SMR and say; "I can't afford that" or "why even bother getting started".
I say, "You can afford it" and "you can get started".
The only way it works is to throw out your old preconceived notions of what is an acceptable quality card. Many low grade examples of older cards retain incredible and almost ethereal eye appeal. They are time machines.
With T-206 it almost seems like the creased card with rounded corners is the natural state. There are high grade examples (albeit unaffordable) but those suckers almost don't even look real! The key for you, the collector, is to embrace this. There are hundreds/thousands of examples of each card from this set that are lower grade but still retain amazing eye appeal. One has to practice the art of acceptance of low grade.
Creases can be strategic or non-strategic. (Through the face of a subject or on the corner or a low or high horizontal). This makes a big difference in eye appeal. Shoot for the non-strategic. (Check out the Green backround Cobb in my set for a PSA 1 example of non-strategic creasing. The cards eye appeal is untainted).
Throw out the preconception that sharp corners are a staple indicator of a nice card. Don't even look at the corners; look at the image.
Often times a tiny spot of paper loss (in the white border, or on the reverse) might drop a card way down in grade; yet the image is flawless.
There are all types of flaws and wear issues that affect lower grade cards that don't necessarily impinge on the cards ability to present in a positive way.
This is especially true of graded cards. Grading Companies are forced to mark a card way down for some of these technical flaws.
Once you get used to this, and drill down to truly enjoying the image, most of the battle has already been won.
So now all of a sudden; you no longer have to depend on paying PSA 4 or higher SMR level prices that you previously felt restricted you from ever giving the set any serious consideration. When you find PSA 1,2,3 examples that look nice "to you" then you are on your way. Get some of these in your hands and see how it transforms you. You can forge ahead and pay reasonable coin at this level (similar to what you pay for high grade 60's, 70's stuff for example) to make real progress and lay a foundation to optimistically move, at least, in the direction of completion.
Keep in mind that the definition of completion and it's timeframe should be softened in your mind. Don't let yourself linger on that or give any thought to what the final dollar value is you need to complete. It will stop you cold in your tracks.
Enjoy the journey, do it for the journey.
A partial T-206 effort is such a monumental and significant achievement that you will feel a wave of euphoria each time you break through that next round number of Completion Percentage. (I'm at almost 40% complete today and honestly have to pinch myself when I think about the enormity of that). This has all been the result of just chipping away, a card at a time with no particular time frame in mind; just the journey.
For all of you guys who are Excel nuts, checklist nuts, variation nuts, back combination nuts, HOF collectors, Team collectors or just guys looking for the most satisfying set building challenge of their lives this set is, and can be, for you.
PSA is a great way to go as well.
Traditonalists will tell you that raw is the only way to go, but if you currently enjoy the Registry and its display and checklist capabilities, and you want to know your cards are "to size" and "authentic", low grade PSA is for you.
I personally love the Registry for its display capabilities. I can visit my cards anytime on line, and others cards as well.
I have met a few other great low grade T206 collectors through the Registry too. We're out there; come join us.
There are a couple of amazing resources that will point you in the right direction. Lew Lipsett wrote the first definitive coverage of the T-206 set in his "Encyclopedia...". There is a recent exhaustive research effort compiled by a long time collector, admirer and follower of the set; Scot Reader. His manuscript is incredible. It has been profiled and excerpted in the SCD over the last few months.
The T206Museum.com is a great starter source for checklisting and backs info.
Lastly, (I know, you are saying, thank god, take a breath Ray...), I thought I would start this thread for anyone who wants to talk about or share ideas about the set. Like I said, serious and important chat about the set goes on elsewhere (N54 for example) as well, but maybe you happen to feel comfortable right here. Keep in mind that there are no dumb questions. There is so much to know and explore with this set that, as a new participant, one generates a gangload of questions real fast.
Scans are always good too! Let's keep this thread lively and alive!
Here's a link to my PSA Registered Set in progress. I hope to be working it for the rest of my collecting life.
Dings, Divots, Creases and Stains - My Beloved T-206's
Thanks to anyone out there who ever encouraged me in this effort.
RayB
Never met a Vintage card I didn't like!
0
Comments
RayB
RayB
Hmmmm. The link is there anyhoot.
Great story and a great looking card. I agree, you are one to be proud of that card.
Keep in mind that the T-206 set is not about the Cobb per say.
It was 2 years before I owned this card and I made the real start on this set foraging for low grade commons with nice eye appeal.
Some of the lithographic art work and colors are just spectacular even in low grade.
Dig into my set and look at Cassidy or Owens or Rucker or Niles; all great examples of low grade with stunning color and marvelous appeal.
Anybody that wants to discuss this set outside the lines; PM or email me anytime.
RayB
I don't collect T206s, nor do I anticipate ever doing so (collecting all Topps HOFers from 1955-1975 will keep me busy at least for this lifetime...), but I just want to say how much I admire your passion and eloquence in discussing your chosen pursuit. These are the kind of threads that make this site worth visiting and I hope that yours enjoys a long and often-read run.
Andy
a Dark Cap Christy Mathewson, it literally raised goose bumps on my arm when I got it in my hands for the first time. I couldn't believe I owned this card, and held in my hand this chalice of cardboard history.
That gave me goose bumps reading it. I have no big names yet of the 205's but I get excited seeing lower graded ones on ebay! Great post~
<< <i>
Keep in mind that the T-206 set is not about the Cobb per say.
RayB >>
I have nine T-206 cards in my collection. For me, it is a chance to look at each card as if it were a painting hanging over a fireplace. A portrait of a player that has long since left the world, some famous, most forgotten. Likely it is the only chance we have to see these players in color. But more importantly, each player is a reason to dig deeper into the game we love. I think that is where the size of the set brings its beauty.
yawie's T206's
"I spent 50% of my money on alcohol, women, and gambling. The other half I wasted.
One question I have though about grading, if anyone can help, is the issue of paper loss. I recently sold 10 PSA 1's that looked like PSA 5's but got 1's due to paper loss on the back. When I search Ebay, I find PSA 3's with paper loss on the back so I was perplexed. I called PSA to try and find an "official" ruling on if paper loss means an automatic PSA 1 and was told it's up to each graders opinion. That doesn't make much sense to me if they are working on consistentcy. Has anybody had much experience grading cards with paper loss? Does it almost always mean a PSA 1?
Any card that looks like its been removed from a scrapbook; where significant portions of the back pull away from the card leaving some portion of the description on the back missing , you can assume that it will always be a PSA 1.
As the paper loss lessens and the cause of the loss leans more and more towards the indeterminate, there is a slightly better chance it may make it into a PSA 2 holder.
Some cards have only a tiny little spot or two of paper loss. This can appear almost anywhere on the card and possibly still allow for a PSA 2 or PSA 3 grade. It is most likely here that the cause of such a loss cannot be determined and is not evident upon a quick inspection, especially when the small spot appears over a solid white section of the card.
An example of this is a tad of edge chipping that pulls off a minute piece of border paper or a small corner crease that leaves a small piece of paper loss on the corner.
Ultimately, the smaller examples of paper loss do fall to the judgement of the grader and it's effect on eye appeal. That discretion is built into their grading standards as published in the SMR.
Certainly any card that looks like a 5 or a 6 on the front with somewhat sharp corners stands a better chance to get a little bump up based on eye appeal.
But if the paper loss on the back is significant (scrap book removal); don't count on it.
Hope that helps.
RayB
Yawie - Great cards!
It's inspiring to know that you broke down your PSA set and still managed to embrace the set so much that you restructured and recontinued the quest to build it raw. Way to go! There is no wrong way.
The key to this set for us low grade guys is to feret out all and any possible way to keep the train on the tracks and add cards. Pick up 1 a week, or 1 a month even. Before you know it, you'll have a bunch and it's an incredible feeling!
RayB
RayB
You have a great eye for picking cards with great "eye appeal"
I must tell you, that was an excellent read. I have been contemplating starting a pre-war set but have been a little reluctant in doing so out of a concern for "losing focus" in my other sets. Your post may have just sealed the deal though!
I've been torn between starting a T-206 set or 1934-36 Diamond Stars. From a sheer historical perspective though, I don't think there is any set that can compare to the T-206. Without trying to sound overly dramatic, I think this set goes beyond just a 'baseball card set' and almost borders something 'spiritual'.
Thanks again for the great post,
Mike
You've hit it on the head exactly. "Spiritual" is certainly synonomous with the experience of working on this set.
Join the fray and you'll never forget it.
RayB
My newest additions including my first Lajoie!:
RayB
I have been thinking about buying some T206 cards and have been tracking the prices for quite a while now on very well centered PSA 3's. It would be nice to put together a team set before trying to tackle 97-99% of the regular set. (yes I know, I could simply make my own excell checklist, but it is so nice to be able to use the registry as my checklist and attach pics)
Does anyone have an excell sheet with the T206 set broken down by teams?
thanks!
RayB
i started collecting t206's about a year ago. my first buy was a t206 red portrait cobb. a wonderful card...beautiful beyond words. my intent in buying this card was not to start collecting the set. i wanted to own a pre war issue of cobb. all of his other aesthetically pleasing cards were too expensive (especially the caramel issues, which in my opinion, are designed very well). so, i bought the very affordable cobb red. from there, i decided to dabble a little more in some of the other t206 HOFers. i bought a tris speaker next...then an eddie collins...then a mathewson white cap. soon, i decided to start collecting HOF portraits. Bought a walter johnson...griffith...huggins. i got hooked quickly. i then decided to not limit it to portraits...but collect all t206 HOFers. got the mordecai brown...home run baker....rube marquard. Finally, a few months ago, i decided to collect the whole damn thing (well, minus the big 4 of course). ive collected likely 1/5th of the set.
it's a wonderful set with so much history. there are so many ways to collect the set....i just went through several variations before finally deciding to collect the whole set.
I've had a few snipes set up for some low grade commons (PSA 1 or 2 and SGC 10-30) but I get outbid every single time. I've been setting up the snipes for what I feel is a fair price based on recent closed auctions but it in the back of my mind, I'm wondering if I'm just chasing the market (kinda like the internet stock boom of the late 90's - wasn't that fun???). Has me a little discouraged. Then I start thinking about what it would cost to try and compile a set (minus the big 4) and then I REALLY get discouraged.
For those who have actually been collecting the set for a while, what's an average fair price to pay for a low grade common with a basic Sweet Caporal or Piedmont back? I assume eBay is the most economical way to go?
Mike
Commons with a common back (SC or Pied.)
PSA 1 $20-25
PSA 2 $25-32
PSA 3 $28-40
Keep in mind that cards in this range can display various flaws. If you are trying to snag nice ones you could be expect to pay high end of the price scale. Also keep in mind that some cards are commons per SMR but not to pre-war collectors. Major metro team collectors from NY, Chicago, Detroit and St. Louis can drive respective prices especially any NY players.
There's a lot of competition at the bottom too. PSA 1,2,3 is a popular entry point for good reason. There are a 100 or so commons though, that are more common than others. When you bid strongly on those you should be a winner.
Make sure you are happy with the flaws of your cards of choice so when you win you'll like what you get in. Sometimes it pays to overbid just a little in the beginning just to get the train rolling (You might even try hitting one of the BIN's in Stores just to get one). Try not to "match" market price with the first few. You can excercise more patience after you get your feet planted.
Please let us know when you get your first win!
RayB
Mike
I recently decided that I wanted some cool pre-war cards. After six months of research and narrowing down just what it is that I wanted. I decided on T206's. Not the whole set, I want to get the eight Minneapolis Millers and the Two St. Paul Apostles. Ten cards, was too easy (I like challenges), so I want all tens cards in all 13 different back types. 130 cards, that's more like it. I've picked up four so far. Not really worried about the 2 sweet caporals, or the piedmont at this point. Anyone have any thoughts, advice, for sale?
Without knowing for sure that, indeed, all the cards are available in all backs, getting any one of the cards in backs like Lenox, Broadleaf, Drum, Hundu, or even EPDG or American Beauty will be exceedingly tough, and expensive.
Let us know if you are able to acquire any of those; we'd love to see them here.
Best of Luck.
RayB
I said That I like challenges, and I know it will take years to find some backs. All the millers and apostles are from the 350 only series. the backs are
Drum
broadleaf
carolina brights
tolstoi
american beauty
cycle
el principe de gales
old mill
sovereign
polar bear
sweet caporal factory 30
sweet caporal factory 25
piedmont
So far I have a cycle, old mill and a couple sovereigns
Do any of you have any advice and where and how to start? What are some good resources for information regarding this set, checklists, pricing?
Thanks for all you wonderfull posts.
262 Runner
(Dave)
Collecting all cards - Gus Zernial
Post Cereal both raw and PSA Graded (1961-1963)
<< <i>What a great thread. I have been building a 1961 Topps Baseball set for nearly two years. I only need one more card! I have been going around and around trying to decide what is next. I have considered, 1962 Topps, 1952 Topps, 1941 Playball, Cracker Jack, 1933 Goudey. Never did I even consider T206... After reading this thread, I think I may go with the T206. It will probably take me a year just to understand this set.
Do any of you have any advice and where and how to start? What are some good resources for information regarding this set, checklists, pricing?
Thanks for all you wonderfull posts.
262 Runner
(Dave) >>
Dave, Do you have any midgrade 61's raw that you dont know what to do with? I'm putting together a raw set, condition not a big issue. E-mail me if you need to unload some. Joe
twodueces22@yahoo.com
"I spent 50% of my money on alcohol, women, and gambling. The other half I wasted.
<< <i>Do any of you have any advice and where and how to start? What are some good resources for information regarding this set, checklists, pricing? >>
Here's a recent thread that provides some info:
thread
I found the following website very informative. There is also a download t206 database written by mike poland. Very, Very nessecessary if you want to start this set.
t206 museum
"I spent 50% of my money on alcohol, women, and gambling. The other half I wasted.
Dave
Collecting all cards - Gus Zernial
Post Cereal both raw and PSA Graded (1961-1963)
I contemplated that Tinker for a while for myself. Gotta dig Tinker's hair!
Nice snag!
I think you will really enjoy those when you get to look at them up close.
RayB
It's one of my many "favorite" cards in the set. I've been looking for a nice low grader for a while with vibrant color and I felt that this one fit the bill. There are a number of really great cards that include a rainbow of assorted colors in the litho, but very few have this complete a spectrum.
I'm really, really pleased!
Enjoy.
RayB
As far as my PSA 1's. Back damage doesn't bother me at all. The Tinker is a $250 card in a PSA1 holder as far as Im concerned. What I mean by that is I would have to pay $250 for that nice front image. I'm not competing for the best of the best. Just filling out a classic set. I normally don't stare at the backs anyways.
"I spent 50% of my money on alcohol, women, and gambling. The other half I wasted.
What an enjoyable thread. I'm not a t206 collector at all ... in fact, 3 months ago I wasn't even collecting cards. I'm 29 -- stopped collecting when I was about 14. It's been so much fun to get back into the hobby again. I'm working on a '60 Topps set in PSA 8 or better and it's been a blast. I find the temptation to drift into other things is SO strong --- I even confess I've fallen prey to it already.
Anyway, I decided to scan the only t-206 I own. It's just a run of the mill common (Piedmont back even), but I remember the day I traded for it nearly 20 years ago when I was a kid. Sadly, I think I ended up giving a beat up Jackie Robinson for it, but I was so drawn to it b/c of it's age --- I hadn't had anything like it. When I came back to collecting a few months ago, I decided to get it holdered. I definitely enjoy it's eye appeal. I really like the rounded corners, makes it more "authentic" in my mind....
Cheers,
Tom
------- 1960 Topps Baseball PSA 8+
------- 1985 Topps Hockey PSA 9+
Steve
<< <i>anyone net something from the collection of t206s set_builders were selling last night? I bid on three, got two...
>>
Major Danby - Great looking cards. Set Builders is one of eBay's best dealers for T-206. Joe T. is one of the most honest dealers and true gentleman in our hobby.
His scans are the best, and he always shows front and back. Nothing left to the imagination.
Go Steelers - That Donovan is a blazer. Congrats.
RayB
"I spent 50% of my money on alcohol, women, and gambling. The other half I wasted.
I've got a PSa 3 McGraw coming now to add to my set that has an amazing image as well. I'll scan that one when I get it in.
RayB