Honest question, honest help, anger, confusion, humor, personal safety. Sharp dagger comments, maybe being played. Counterfeit detection, economics, grading.....this thread has it all.
LOL. I bowed out of giving him "professional advice". I never bowed out of giving him a hard time.
besides who else is such an easy sap & available for him to pick on
I'm not exactly sure who is supposed to be the "easy sap" in your comment. I presume you mean coinscratch. I tried to give him solid advice, but when he insulted me and all other dealers, he lost me. And, frankly, his unwillingness to listen to anyone marks him as either an amusing troll or a misguided newbie.
Did you see his collection of polished and possibly fake dollars that he supposedly bought for $28-$30 each?
Honest question, honest help, anger, confusion, humor, personal safety. Sharp dagger comments, maybe being played. Counterfeit detection, economics, grading.....this thread has it all.
LOL. I bowed out of giving him "professional advice". I never bowed out of giving him a hard time.
besides who else is such an easy sap & available for him to pick on
I'm not exactly sure who is supposed to be the "easy sap" in your comment. I presume you mean coinscratch. I tried to give him solid advice, but when he insulted me and all other dealers, he lost me. And, frankly, his unwillingness to listen to anyone marks him as either an amusing troll or a misguided newbie.
Did you see his collection of polished and possibly fake dollars that he supposedly bought for $28-$30 each?
yes & that is exactly who I was talking about. You & many others have given great advice which he ignores. So let him do his thing & we can all enjoy his stumbles.
Honest question, honest help, anger, confusion, humor, personal safety. Sharp dagger comments, maybe being played. Counterfeit detection, economics, grading.....this thread has it all.
LOL. I bowed out of giving him "professional advice". I never bowed out of giving him a hard time.
besides who else is such an easy sap & available for him to pick on
I'm not exactly sure who is supposed to be the "easy sap" in your comment. I presume you mean coinscratch. I tried to give him solid advice, but when he insulted me and all other dealers, he lost me. And, frankly, his unwillingness to listen to anyone marks him as either an amusing troll or a misguided newbie.
Did you see his collection of polished and possibly fake dollars that he supposedly bought for $28-$30 each?
yes & that is exactly who I was talking about. You & many others have given great advice which he ignores. So let him do his thing & we can all enjoy his stumbles.
My apologies, I'm not trying to be difficult and I really do appreciate everyone's help. I'm just trying to deal with the conundrum of buying or not.
95% of the time the grade of a coin pictured here cannot really be determined. The answer usually is: I can't tell because of the pics. I'm told to turn and run when nobody really knows what they are looking at grade wise. I understand the danger aspect and the probability of getting low grade coins for a high price. But I also know how to read the price guide. I realize the proper schooling and or help is the smartest thing to do. But, time is of the essence. I don't have the luxury.
So lets try again and this time somebody explain to me why this is a bad scary stupid dumb transaction and not a fair deal with the potential to be more.
Again, all of the matching links to the Dansco quarter books Gluggo was nice enough to list are clearly and very much not complete and the coins are in terrible condition even comparing PICS of mine and thars is like night and day. They are listed between 250 and 465.(missing the 32s by the way) So, I believe the asking price of 700 considering the condition at the very worst would only be a minimal loss if any at all.
Somebody wanted me to call the seller back and tell him to go back to the pawn and let them have first dibs. That's a nice fluffy story and all but don't you think the pawn would pay him less much less than I am about to.
So, I'm either gonna get ripped off or I'm gonna rip someone else off. I don't get that. Isn't the agreed medium fair?
So lets try again and this time somebody explain to me why this is a bad scary stupid dumb transaction and not a fair deal with the potential to be more.
Again, all of the matching links to the Dansco quarter books Gluggo was nice enough to list are clearly and very much not complete and the coins are in terrible condition even comparing PICS of mine and thars is like night and day. They are listed between 250 and 465.(missing the 32s by the way) So, I believe the asking price of 700 considering the condition at the very worst would only be a minimal loss if any at all.
Somebody wanted me to call the seller back and tell him to go back to the pawn and let them have first dibs. That's a nice fluffy story and all but don't you think the pawn would pay him less much less than I am about to.
So, I'm either gonna get ripped off or I'm gonna rip someone else off. I don't get that. Isn't the agreed medium fair?
No. You have stated unequivocally that you do not want to pay a "professional" fair market value. The implication of that is that you want to pay the seller below fair market value. You have unequivocally stated that you want to get "lucky". The implication of that is that you want to pay the seller below fair market value. At least be honest with yourself.
Second of all, you don't know how to grade coins. That is clear from the silver dollars. You also don't know market value. That is clear from the silver dollars. So your evaluation of the eBay lots relative to the book the "nice man" has is suspect.
The Washington quarter series is mostly face value or bullion value except for a handful of coins or very exceptional coins in the 1930s and 40s. You showed us none of those coins. Why? Either you don't know which coins are the better ones or you're trolling. A shiny polished 1932-D that looks good to YOU is NOT worth more than a solid Fine coin that looks crappy to you because it is "original". The 1960s coins you did show us are average to below average. I have never seen a set with XF/AU late date silver coins that had high end early coins. In most all collections, the cheap coins are the ones in high grade.
Since you bought polished and counterfeit silver dollars, the odds of you accurately assessing a faked 1932-D or 1932-S coin is pretty slim. So, the fact remains that either you are going to be taken advantage of and pay too much. Or, you might get "lucky" in which case you are going to be taking advantage of the "nice man".
As for the pawn broker. Pawn brokers are not numismatic professionals. If you bought those dollars from the pawn broker, that pretty much demonstrates all we need to know about him.
A reputable coin dealer would likely pay $500 for a set of coins that he is going to sell for $600. There is not a lot of room in the middle, even if a novice like yourself could find it. And you DON'T want to find that middle ground. You have said you want to get "lucky".
Pay your tuition. You've already paid $300+ too much for the silver dollars, so there's course #1. You bought a bunch of proof and mint sets for pretty close to Retail, so you "got lucky" there and only paid full price. Of course, that assumes you aren't planning on trying to resell the proof/mint sets. But, the biggest problem is you really don't want to learn, so it's going to take you 10 years to get to graduation. Rather than really study coins, you've come here looking for short cuts to answers. You wanted a "crash course", not an education. Your course may well end in a crash.
But, as long as you have deep pockets and are having fun, keep spending. Coin collecting is not about profit, it's about the journey. So, have fun. If you get half your money back some day, that's still better than a lot of hobbies.
So lets try again and this time somebody explain to me why this is a bad scary stupid dumb transaction and not a fair deal with the potential to be more.
Again, all of the matching links to the Dansco quarter books Gluggo was nice enough to list are clearly and very much not complete and the coins are in terrible condition even comparing PICS of mine and thars is like night and day. They are listed between 250 and 465.(missing the 32s by the way) So, I believe the asking price of 700 considering the condition at the very worst would only be a minimal loss if any at all.
Somebody wanted me to call the seller back and tell him to go back to the pawn and let them have first dibs. That's a nice fluffy story and all but don't you think the pawn would pay him less much less than I am about to.
So, I'm either gonna get ripped off or I'm gonna rip someone else off. I don't get that. Isn't the agreed medium fair?
$700 could be $10,000 too little or $450 too much. "Are you feeling lucky, punk?" [Eastwood]
The only one that thought you were doing good was some card collector. Basically Coinscratch, you've gotten some pretty good guidance here. Ultimately, the coins you buy are worth to you whatever you want them to be, not what you paid or what we think. Keep em, pass em down to the next generation, have fun with them. I personally think you've paid too much, but who here can say they've never paid too much? We were just trying to keep you safe and trying to keep you from being taken advantage of. Have you checked out the BST on this site?
I only have one thing to say about this whole thread. Anytime anyone writes "I need a crash course in silver dollars," it is already too late. There is no such thing.
No. You have stated unequivocally that you do not want to pay a "professional" fair market value. The implication of that is that you want to pay the seller below fair market value. You have unequivocally stated that you want to get "lucky". The implication of that is that you want to pay the seller below fair market value. At least be honest with yourself.
_What I meant by that is I would never get lucky buying one from a professional because he would never sell me a proof set for 12.00 what he knew he could sell for 10k. And I obviously don't know what the fmv even is since I can't grade anyway. Good thing though otherwise I might have told him that I couldn't afford his coins.
**
Second of all, you don't know how to grade coins. That is clear from the silver dollars. You also don't know market value. That is clear from the silver dollars. So your evaluation of the eBay lots relative to the book the "nice man" has is suspect.
**SEE ABOVE
**
The Washington quarter series is mostly face value or bullion value except for a handful of coins or very exceptional coins in the 1930s and 40s. You showed us none of those coins. Why? Either you don't know which coins are the better ones or you're trolling. A shiny polished 1932-D that looks good to YOU is NOT worth more than a solid Fine coin that looks crappy to you because it is "original". The 1960s coins you did show us are average to below average. I have never seen a set with XF/AU late date silver coins that had high end early coins. In most all collections, the cheap coins are the ones in high grade.
**I didn't realize the 32 page was so relevant I took a few quick pics of what I thought was the goods. So wish I did, but your probably right on there condition anyway.
**
Since you bought polished and counterfeit silver dollars, the odds of you accurately assessing a faked 1932-D or 1932-S coin is pretty slim. So, the fact remains that either you are going to be taken advantage of and pay too much. Or, you might get "lucky" in which case you are going to be taking advantage of the "nice man".
**When I started I would just pick the occasional silver dollar while out hunting for others. I knew they were bad but I did it because it has a much higher return than a $20 scratchhhh off.
**
As for the pawn broker. Pawn brokers are not numismatic professionals. If you bought those dollars from the pawn broker, that pretty much demonstrates all we need to know about him.
**Apparently I didn't talk him down enough or all the others. I will work on that.
**
A reputable coin dealer would likely pay $500 for a set of coins that he is going to sell for $600. There is not a lot of room in the middle, even if a novice like yourself could find it. And you DON'T want to find that middle ground. You have said you want to get "lucky". Very true, or at least not be "unlucky".
**
Pay your tuition. You've already paid $300+ too much for the silver dollars, so there's course #1. You bought a bunch of proof and mint sets for pretty close to Retail, so you "got lucky" there and only paid full price. Of course, that assumes you aren't planning on trying to resell the proof/mint sets. But, the biggest problem is you really don't want to learn, so it's going to take you 10 years to get to graduation. Rather than really study coins, you've come here looking for short cuts to answers. You wanted a "crash course", not an education. Your course may well end in a crash. **Obviously, I have stepped out of the nest too early I might need to go back to cents for a while and try to study more. Thank You! **
But, as long as you have deep pockets and are having fun, keep spending. Coin collecting is not about profit, it's about the journey. So, have fun. If you get half your money back some day, that's still better than a lot of hobbies. I'm starting to see that. Pockets aren't deep but not hanging out either. I'm not trying to cut out a quick profit just trying to build a tangible asset I can enjoy and the kids can use one day.
Thanks for the lesson grades if any will be back in a couple months and for all the bantering, enjoyed it
@USMarine6 said:
I think everyones heart is in the right place here but c'mon. Treat this poster like a troll and your teeth. Ingore them any they will go away.
I know we've had some bad luck with the trolls lately, but this fella has been around for a while. I'm not sure he's not legit.
@USMarine6 said:
I think everyones heart is in the right place here but c'mon. Treat this poster like a troll and your teeth. Ingore them any they will go away.
I know we've had some bad luck with the trolls lately, but this fella has been around for a while. I'm not sure he's not legit.
Username CoinscratchFever Joined July 9, 2018 6:52PM Visits 267 Last Active September 11, 2018 5:07PM Roles Members Points 70 Posts 144 Badges 10
Anyway, I was gonna say. Like these cents I picked up recently at a small town bank in Texas. Love the customer wrapped rolls from lil towns. Much more fun to have all copper
in a roll. Nothing newer than 91 It makes me think someone was collecting them back in the 80's, removed the wheaties and added new coins at the time period, because every roll had 2 or 3 high grades in 83, 84, 85 etc.
@jmlanzaf said:
Oh, dear God, and here come the fake doubled dies....
I'm starting to get that trolling vibe....
What the hell is a troll? It doesn't sound good. Usually, if we are trolling its a 3 ounce broken back strawberry stick on 30lb mono.
Google it. "Troll" has a clear meaning in the internet age and has nothing to do with coins. You can't not know
I see. And now I kinda feel like I've been trolled. I will be more careful of what questions I ask on here in the future.
The suggestion is that YOU are the troll, not that you've been trolled. The reason being that no one thinks you could possibly be genuine.
I'm reserving judgment. But if you don't actually show evidence of learning something soon, we will be forced to conclude that you are either a troll or incapable of learning. At that point, everyone will ignore you.
@jmlanzaf said:
Oh, dear God, and here come the fake doubled dies....
I'm starting to get that trolling vibe....
What the hell is a troll? It doesn't sound good. Usually, if we are trolling its a 3 ounce broken back strawberry stick on 30lb mono.
Google it. "Troll" has a clear meaning in the internet age and has nothing to do with coins. You can't not know
I see. And now I kinda feel like I've been trolled. I will be more careful of what questions I ask on here in the future.
The suggestion is that YOU are the troll, not that you've been trolled. The reason being that no one thinks you could possibly be genuine.
I'm reserving judgment. But if you don't actually show evidence of learning something soon, we will be forced to conclude that you are either a troll or incapable of learning. At that point, everyone will ignore you.
@jmlanzaf said:
Oh, dear God, and here come the fake doubled dies....
I'm starting to get that trolling vibe....
What the hell is a troll? It doesn't sound good. Usually, if we are trolling its a 3 ounce broken back strawberry stick on 30lb mono.
Google it. "Troll" has a clear meaning in the internet age and has nothing to do with coins. You can't not know
I see. And now I kinda feel like I've been trolled. I will be more careful of what questions I ask on here in the future.
The suggestion is that YOU are the troll, not that you've been trolled. The reason being that no one thinks you could possibly be genuine.
I'm reserving judgment. But if you don't actually show evidence of learning something soon, we will be forced to conclude that you are either a troll or incapable of learning. At that point, everyone will ignore you.
Before he is declared to be a troll, I think we should make sure is not a YN. Are you old enough to drink legally? Do you have a unrestricted drivers license?
I would look them up in the PCGS Price Guide you can download it onto your phone. Whatever price you see offer half. But be careful for fakes & cleaned coins. Good luck.
I think you should also tip the shop owner he is paying the rent and overhead, he was the intended buyer.
@Kkathyl said:
I would look them up in the PCGS Price Guide you can download it onto your phone. Whatever price you see offer half. But be careful for fakes & cleaned coins. Good luck.
I think you should also tip the shop owner he is paying the rent and overhead, he was the intended buyer.
Thanks Kathy, I will take your advice. And I will tip the pawn shop $50 regardless if I buy the coins, apologize for interferring with his business, and and ask them to keep my number case they get some coins in.
Thanks Kathy, I will take your advice. And I will tip the pawn shop $50 regardless if I buy the coins, apologize for interferring with his business, and and ask them to keep my number case they get some coins in.
I would love to have a relationship with a pawn shop
@tyler267 said:
Before he is declared to be a troll, I think we should make sure is not a YN. Are you old enough to drink legally? Do you have a unrestricted drivers license?
I am not a troll. I am very sorry I upset anyone here. That was never my intention. I was simply questioning the typical answers I always (2 whole mos.) get here and I am slightly hard headed. Maybe now I realize I was asking the wrong questions and not accepting the answers that I didn't want to hear. 51, drink and drive but not at the same time. Dare I ask what a YN is?
@Onastone said:
The only one that thought you were doing good was some card collector. Basically Coinscratch, you've gotten some pretty good guidance here. Ultimately, the coins you buy are worth to you whatever you want them to be, not what you paid or what we think. Keep em, pass em down to the next generation, have fun with them. I personally think you've paid too much, but who here can say they've never paid too much? We were just trying to keep you safe and trying to keep you from being taken advantage of. Have you checked out the BST on this site?
@tyler267 said:
Before he is declared to be a troll, I think we should make sure is not a YN. Are you old enough to drink legally? Do you have a unrestricted drivers license?
Are you saying there are no young trolls?
I have been reserving judgment, but how young is our numismatist if he's hanging out alone in pawn shops?
@Onastone said:
The only one that thought you were doing good was some card collector. Basically Coinscratch, you've gotten some pretty good guidance here. Ultimately, the coins you buy are worth to you whatever you want them to be, not what you paid or what we think. Keep em, pass em down to the next generation, have fun with them. I personally think you've paid too much, but who here can say they've never paid too much? We were just trying to keep you safe and trying to keep you from being taken advantage of. Have you checked out the BST on this site?
@tyler267 said:
Before he is declared to be a troll, I think we should make sure is not a YN. Are you old enough to drink legally? Do you have a unrestricted drivers license?
@tyler267 said:
Before he is declared to be a troll, I think we should make sure is not a YN. Are you old enough to drink legally? Do you have a unrestricted drivers license?
I am not a troll. I am very sorry I upset anyone here. That was never my intention. I was simply questioning the typical answers I always (2 whole mos.) get here and I am slightly hard headed. Maybe now I realize I was asking the wrong questions and not accepting the answers that I didn't want to hear. 51, drink and drive but not at the same time. Dare I ask what a YN is?
@Onastone said:
The only one that thought you were doing good was some card collector. Basically Coinscratch, you've gotten some pretty good guidance here. Ultimately, the coins you buy are worth to you whatever you want them to be, not what you paid or what we think. Keep em, pass em down to the next generation, have fun with them. I personally think you've paid too much, but who here can say they've never paid too much? We were just trying to keep you safe and trying to keep you from being taken advantage of. Have you checked out the BST on this site?
You have mentioned a few times how good the $700 quarter set is, but your pictures start on page 4 of the Dansco album with the early 60's silver and then start of the clads....
This is your picture, near the top in second row is a 1961-D and left of that are part of the reverses from the previous page. Just to the left of the 1961-D is the reverse of the 1951-D. The condition of the coin in the 1951_D spot is good / maybe Very Good....
The most money in a full Dansco 1932- Washington quarter album is the first page, then second, then third, then 4th.
I do not see anything showing me the coins in your $700 album are better than any of the linked eBay albums....
I suspect there are very few pawn shops that would be disappointed with you taking away their business with the accumulation of mint sets you purchased.
Comments
I'm not exactly sure who is supposed to be the "easy sap" in your comment. I presume you mean coinscratch. I tried to give him solid advice, but when he insulted me and all other dealers, he lost me. And, frankly, his unwillingness to listen to anyone marks him as either an amusing troll or a misguided newbie.
Did you see his collection of polished and possibly fake dollars that he supposedly bought for $28-$30 each?
yes & that is exactly who I was talking about. You & many others have given great advice which he ignores. So let him do his thing & we can all enjoy his stumbles.
My apologies, I'm not trying to be difficult and I really do appreciate everyone's help. I'm just trying to deal with the conundrum of buying or not.
95% of the time the grade of a coin pictured here cannot really be determined. The answer usually is: I can't tell because of the pics. I'm told to turn and run when nobody really knows what they are looking at grade wise. I understand the danger aspect and the probability of getting low grade coins for a high price. But I also know how to read the price guide. I realize the proper schooling and or help is the smartest thing to do. But, time is of the essence. I don't have the luxury.
So lets try again and this time somebody explain to me why this is a bad scary stupid dumb transaction and not a fair deal with the potential to be more.
Again, all of the matching links to the Dansco quarter books Gluggo was nice enough to list are clearly and very much not complete and the coins are in terrible condition even comparing PICS of mine and thars is like night and day. They are listed between 250 and 465.(missing the 32s by the way) So, I believe the asking price of 700 considering the condition at the very worst would only be a minimal loss if any at all.
Somebody wanted me to call the seller back and tell him to go back to the pawn and let them have first dibs. That's a nice fluffy story and all but don't you think the pawn would pay him less much less than I am about to.
So, I'm either gonna get ripped off or I'm gonna rip someone else off. I don't get that. Isn't the agreed medium fair?
Good luck!
The Mysterious Egyptian Magic Coin
Coins in Movies
Coins on Television
No. You have stated unequivocally that you do not want to pay a "professional" fair market value. The implication of that is that you want to pay the seller below fair market value. You have unequivocally stated that you want to get "lucky". The implication of that is that you want to pay the seller below fair market value. At least be honest with yourself.
Second of all, you don't know how to grade coins. That is clear from the silver dollars. You also don't know market value. That is clear from the silver dollars. So your evaluation of the eBay lots relative to the book the "nice man" has is suspect.
The Washington quarter series is mostly face value or bullion value except for a handful of coins or very exceptional coins in the 1930s and 40s. You showed us none of those coins. Why? Either you don't know which coins are the better ones or you're trolling. A shiny polished 1932-D that looks good to YOU is NOT worth more than a solid Fine coin that looks crappy to you because it is "original". The 1960s coins you did show us are average to below average. I have never seen a set with XF/AU late date silver coins that had high end early coins. In most all collections, the cheap coins are the ones in high grade.
Since you bought polished and counterfeit silver dollars, the odds of you accurately assessing a faked 1932-D or 1932-S coin is pretty slim. So, the fact remains that either you are going to be taken advantage of and pay too much. Or, you might get "lucky" in which case you are going to be taking advantage of the "nice man".
As for the pawn broker. Pawn brokers are not numismatic professionals. If you bought those dollars from the pawn broker, that pretty much demonstrates all we need to know about him.
A reputable coin dealer would likely pay $500 for a set of coins that he is going to sell for $600. There is not a lot of room in the middle, even if a novice like yourself could find it. And you DON'T want to find that middle ground. You have said you want to get "lucky".
Pay your tuition. You've already paid $300+ too much for the silver dollars, so there's course #1. You bought a bunch of proof and mint sets for pretty close to Retail, so you "got lucky" there and only paid full price. Of course, that assumes you aren't planning on trying to resell the proof/mint sets. But, the biggest problem is you really don't want to learn, so it's going to take you 10 years to get to graduation. Rather than really study coins, you've come here looking for short cuts to answers. You wanted a "crash course", not an education. Your course may well end in a crash.
But, as long as you have deep pockets and are having fun, keep spending. Coin collecting is not about profit, it's about the journey. So, have fun. If you get half your money back some day, that's still better than a lot of hobbies.
$700 could be $10,000 too little or $450 too much. "Are you feeling lucky, punk?" [Eastwood]
The only one that thought you were doing good was some card collector. Basically Coinscratch, you've gotten some pretty good guidance here. Ultimately, the coins you buy are worth to you whatever you want them to be, not what you paid or what we think. Keep em, pass em down to the next generation, have fun with them. I personally think you've paid too much, but who here can say they've never paid too much? We were just trying to keep you safe and trying to keep you from being taken advantage of. Have you checked out the BST on this site?
I only have one thing to say about this whole thread. Anytime anyone writes "I need a crash course in silver dollars," it is already too late. There is no such thing.
Kind regards,
George
No. You have stated unequivocally that you do not want to pay a "professional" fair market value. The implication of that is that you want to pay the seller below fair market value. You have unequivocally stated that you want to get "lucky". The implication of that is that you want to pay the seller below fair market value. At least be honest with yourself.
_What I meant by that is I would never get lucky buying one from a professional because he would never sell me a proof set for 12.00 what he knew he could sell for 10k. And I obviously don't know what the fmv even is since I can't grade anyway. Good thing though otherwise I might have told him that I couldn't afford his coins.
**
Second of all, you don't know how to grade coins. That is clear from the silver dollars. You also don't know market value. That is clear from the silver dollars. So your evaluation of the eBay lots relative to the book the "nice man" has is suspect.
**SEE ABOVE
**
The Washington quarter series is mostly face value or bullion value except for a handful of coins or very exceptional coins in the 1930s and 40s. You showed us none of those coins. Why? Either you don't know which coins are the better ones or you're trolling. A shiny polished 1932-D that looks good to YOU is NOT worth more than a solid Fine coin that looks crappy to you because it is "original". The 1960s coins you did show us are average to below average. I have never seen a set with XF/AU late date silver coins that had high end early coins. In most all collections, the cheap coins are the ones in high grade.
**I didn't realize the 32 page was so relevant I took a few quick pics of what I thought was the goods. So wish I did, but your probably right on there condition anyway.
**
Since you bought polished and counterfeit silver dollars, the odds of you accurately assessing a faked 1932-D or 1932-S coin is pretty slim. So, the fact remains that either you are going to be taken advantage of and pay too much. Or, you might get "lucky" in which case you are going to be taking advantage of the "nice man".
**When I started I would just pick the occasional silver dollar while out hunting for others. I knew they were bad but I did it because it has a much higher return than a $20 scratchhhh off.
**
As for the pawn broker. Pawn brokers are not numismatic professionals. If you bought those dollars from the pawn broker, that pretty much demonstrates all we need to know about him.
**Apparently I didn't talk him down enough or all the others. I will work on that.
**
A reputable coin dealer would likely pay $500 for a set of coins that he is going to sell for $600. There is not a lot of room in the middle, even if a novice like yourself could find it. And you DON'T want to find that middle ground. You have said you want to get "lucky". Very true, or at least not be "unlucky".
**
Pay your tuition. You've already paid $300+ too much for the silver dollars, so there's course #1. You bought a bunch of proof and mint sets for pretty close to Retail, so you "got lucky" there and only paid full price. Of course, that assumes you aren't planning on trying to resell the proof/mint sets. But, the biggest problem is you really don't want to learn, so it's going to take you 10 years to get to graduation. Rather than really study coins, you've come here looking for short cuts to answers. You wanted a "crash course", not an education. Your course may well end in a crash. **Obviously, I have stepped out of the nest too early I might need to go back to cents for a while and try to study more. Thank You! **
But, as long as you have deep pockets and are having fun, keep spending. Coin collecting is not about profit, it's about the journey. So, have fun. If you get half your money back some day, that's still better than a lot of hobbies. I'm starting to see that. Pockets aren't deep but not hanging out either. I'm not trying to cut out a quick profit just trying to build a tangible asset I can enjoy and the kids can use one day.
Thanks for the lesson grades if any will be back in a couple months and for all the bantering, enjoyed it
I think everyones heart is in the right place here but c'mon. Treat this poster like a troll and your teeth. Ingore them any they will go away.
I know we've had some bad luck with the trolls lately, but this fella has been around for a while. I'm not sure he's not legit.
Username CoinscratchFever Joined July 9, 2018 6:52PM Visits 267 Last Active September 11, 2018 5:07PM Roles Members Points 70 Posts 144 Badges 10
What is a troll? Seriously!
Anyway, I was gonna say. Like these cents I picked up recently at a small town bank in Texas. Love the customer wrapped rolls from lil towns. Much more fun to have all copper
in a roll. Nothing newer than 91 It makes me think someone was collecting them back in the 80's, removed the wheaties and added new coins at the time period, because every roll had 2 or 3 high grades in 83, 84, 85 etc.
Ten different types of rolls but only one type looking good, thus far
And in those rolls I found this one that looks like a double ear. But, I'm not sure it also looks like shading from dirt???
LOL Again
Yea okay, I just realized there not all copper, wish they were, but you know what I mean.
Oh, dear God, and here come the fake doubled dies....
I'm starting to get that trolling vibe....
If you did indeed find a 'double ear'.................you win the fantastic bow tie award
Please keep us posted.
Successful transactions with : MICHAELDIXON, Manorcourtman, Bochiman, bolivarshagnasty, AUandAG, onlyroosies, chumley, Weiss, jdimmick, BAJJERFAN, gene1978, TJM965, Smittys, GRANDAM, JTHawaii, mainejoe, softparade, derryb
Bad transactions with : nobody to date
The only thing worth while in this thread is the OP's attitude.
Coins are junk,
bob
I'm just adding to my post cown't
.
All Hail the mighty Conch Shell. What should we do now?.....Nothing
Can I LOL that twice?
What the hell is a troll? It doesn't sound good. Usually, if we are trolling its a 3 ounce broken back strawberry stick on 30lb mono.
That is a good idea buying coins at the bank for face. At least you will not be buried at time of purchase.
I am curious how you would be able to tell if you found a $1000 coin in your $10 mint set purchase?
Google it. "Troll" has a clear meaning in the internet age and has nothing to do with coins. You can't not know
& change the title of your thread to “I need a crash course on trolling...”
I see. And now I kinda feel like I've been trolled. I will be more careful of what questions I ask on here in the future.
The suggestion is that YOU are the troll, not that you've been trolled. The reason being that no one thinks you could possibly be genuine.
I'm reserving judgment. But if you don't actually show evidence of learning something soon, we will be forced to conclude that you are either a troll or incapable of learning. At that point, everyone will ignore you.
I'm still looking for that answer, this one missed but not by much.
I guess time will tell.
Not by much? That's a $15 coin in a $30 holder.
Time is short.
Course #1
Successful transactions with : MICHAELDIXON, Manorcourtman, Bochiman, bolivarshagnasty, AUandAG, onlyroosies, chumley, Weiss, jdimmick, BAJJERFAN, gene1978, TJM965, Smittys, GRANDAM, JTHawaii, mainejoe, softparade, derryb
Bad transactions with : nobody to date
Yes, and from that I learned: Finding a pr69 dcam or better is going to be very tough.
Before he is declared to be a troll, I think we should make sure is not a YN. Are you old enough to drink legally? Do you have a unrestricted drivers license?
I would look them up in the PCGS Price Guide you can download it onto your phone. Whatever price you see offer half. But be careful for fakes & cleaned coins. Good luck.
I think you should also tip the shop owner he is paying the rent and overhead, he was the intended buyer.
Best place to buy !
Bronze Associate member
Thanks Kathy, I will take your advice. And I will tip the pawn shop $50 regardless if I buy the coins, apologize for interferring with his business, and and ask them to keep my number case they get some coins in.
I would love to have a relationship with a pawn shop
Successful transactions with : MICHAELDIXON, Manorcourtman, Bochiman, bolivarshagnasty, AUandAG, onlyroosies, chumley, Weiss, jdimmick, BAJJERFAN, gene1978, TJM965, Smittys, GRANDAM, JTHawaii, mainejoe, softparade, derryb
Bad transactions with : nobody to date
I am not a troll. I am very sorry I upset anyone here. That was never my intention. I was simply questioning the typical answers I always (2 whole mos.) get here and I am slightly hard headed. Maybe now I realize I was asking the wrong questions and not accepting the answers that I didn't want to hear. 51, drink and drive but not at the same time. Dare I ask what a YN is?
Thanks. What is the BST? Ignorance is bliss
Are you saying there are no young trolls?
I have been reserving judgment, but how young is our numismatist if he's hanging out alone in pawn shops?
Buy Sell Trade - it's one of the boards here.
Please don't insult the average YN.
Young Numismatist
I should give it a look thanks
You have mentioned a few times how good the $700 quarter set is, but your pictures start on page 4 of the Dansco album with the early 60's silver and then start of the clads....
This is your picture, near the top in second row is a 1961-D and left of that are part of the reverses from the previous page. Just to the left of the 1961-D is the reverse of the 1951-D. The condition of the coin in the 1951_D spot is good / maybe Very Good....
The most money in a full Dansco 1932- Washington quarter album is the first page, then second, then third, then 4th.
I do not see anything showing me the coins in your $700 album are better than any of the linked eBay albums....
I suspect there are very few pawn shops that would be disappointed with you taking away their business with the accumulation of mint sets you purchased.