@davewesen said:
You have mentioned a few times how good the $700 quarter set is, but your pictures start on page 4 of the Dansco album with the early 60's silver and then start of the clads....
This is your picture, near the top in second row is a 1961-D and left of that are part of the reverses from the previous page. Just to the left of the 1961-D is the reverse of the 1951-D. The condition of the coin in the 1951_D spot is good / maybe Very Good....
The most money in a full Dansco 1932- Washington quarter album is the first page, then second, then third, then 4th.
I do not see anything showing me the coins in your $700 album are better than any of the linked eBay albums....
I suspect there are very few pawn shops that would be disappointed with you taking away their business with the accumulation of mint sets you purchased.
Yeah, I don't get it. I wanna believe this guy is for real, but it is just too much.
But, hey, he did find the first ever 1984-D doubled ear variety.
@davewesen said:
You have mentioned a few times how good the $700 quarter set is, but your pictures start on page 4 of the Dansco album with the early 60's silver and then start of the clads....
This is your picture, near the top in second row is a 1961-D and left of that are part of the reverses from the previous page. Just to the left of the 1961-D is the reverse of the 1951-D. The condition of the coin in the 1951_D spot is good / maybe Very Good....
The most money in a full Dansco 1932- Washington quarter album is the first page, then second, then third, then 4th.
I do not see anything showing me the coins in your $700 album are better than any of the linked eBay albums....
I suspect there are very few pawn shops that would be disappointed with you taking away their business with the accumulation of mint sets you purchased.
Thats true and as I mentioned earlier. At the time I took the pics I had no idea I was going to be looking at quarters and didn't know to take pics of the 32 etc. I thought he was bringing dollars but I would have been in the same boat anyway. As I found out here there are no short answers.
I am hoping to look at them again this week and if I can I will get pics of all pages and post here for advice. In the event, he still has them, I still like them and wish to take at that moment (impulse). At what grade point in the 32 d is your cut off? Or if it falls below said grade do I still offer a price?
@davewesen said:
You have mentioned a few times how good the $700 quarter set is, but your pictures start on page 4 of the Dansco album with the early 60's silver and then start of the clads....
Thats true and as I mentioned earlier. At the time I took the pics I had no idea I was going to be looking at quarters and didn't know to take pics of the 32 etc. I thought he was bringing dollars but I would have been in the same boat anyway. As I found out here there are no short answers.
I am hoping to look at them again this week and if I can I will get pics of all pages and post here for advice. In the event, he still has them, I still like them and wish to take at that moment (impulse). At what grade point in the 32 d is your cut off? Or if it falls below said grade do I still offer a price?
This is why one of my original comments to you was that it was impossible for you to make a "fair offer". You are going to be too high or too low. The 32-D and 32-S have value in any grade - IF THEY ARE REAL. But other coins on the first two pages can also have significant value based on grade. So, to properly value a set, you need to be able (I'll repeat myself) to 1. AUTHENTICATE 2. GRADE 3. DETERMINE MARKET VALUE.
Based on the silver dollars, you failed at all 3. You've got at least one obvious fake $, possibly 2. Most of them appear to be polished. And you paid way over market value. And that was a small number of coins.
A BU set of Washington Quarters is $4000+. A fairly well circulated set (early dates) with all genuine key dates and UNC late dates is more like $600 to $700. A circulated set with fake key dates is more like $350 to $400. There is no way to give you a price that is fair. We could give you the safe lowball price ($300), but then it is you trying to take advantage of the "nice man".
But, now I'm repeating myself for the 3rd time.
On the bright side, my post count is going through the roof!
The only thing worth grading in a 2002 proof set is something that is NOT cameo. LMAO
I'm glad your having fun with this, so what the heck is in the 2002?
Remember, I'm a professional. I can't be expected to give away any free advice. Especially since you won't buy my proof and mint sets for LESS than you paid the amateur, I have to make my money somewhere.
If you do not know what the key dates/mintmarks of a series are, you should not be buying a complete set - unless you are doing it with entertainment cash.
@davewesen said:
You have mentioned a few times how good the $700 quarter set is, but your pictures start on page 4 of the Dansco album with the early 60's silver and then start of the clads....
This is your picture, near the top in second row is a 1961-D and left of that are part of the reverses from the previous page. Just to the left of the 1961-D is the reverse of the 1951-D. The condition of the coin in the 1951_D spot is good / maybe Very Good....
The most money in a full Dansco 1932- Washington quarter album is the first page, then second, then third, then 4th.
I do not see anything showing me the coins in your $700 album are better than any of the linked eBay albums....
I suspect there are very few pawn shops that would be disappointed with you taking away their business with the accumulation of mint sets you purchased.
Thats true and as I mentioned earlier. At the time I took the pics I had no idea I was going to be looking at quarters and didn't know to take pics of the 32 etc. I thought he was bringing dollars but I would have been in the same boat anyway. As I found out here there are no short answers.
I am hoping to look at them again this week and if I can I will get pics of all pages and post here for advice. In the event, he still has them, I still like them and wish to take at that moment (impulse). At what grade point in the 32 d is your cut off? Or if it falls below said grade do I still offer a price?
The fact that you took many pictures of extremely common coins very few people want and you DID NOT EVEN KNOW to look for the 32DS etc.......just took a bunch of pictures of really low priced difficult to move material......told me all I needed to know.
You have got to be pulling our legs.
The only thing worth grading in a 2002 proof set is something that is NOT cameo. LMAO
I'm glad your having fun with this, so what the heck is in the 2002?
Remember, I'm a professional. I can't be expected to give away any free advice. Especially since you won't buy my proof and mint sets for LESS than you paid the amateur, I have to make my money somewhere.
what about the 68, 72, 79, 80, 81
Ahem
Well stop calling me a troll. The conspiracy theories run rampant here!
Well stop calling me a troll. The conspiracy theories run rampant here!
Well, to be fair,"troll" on this board has largely come to mean "someone who posts a question and then argues with the answer". Now, there are healthy debates on this board. But when EVERYONE is telling you the same thing and you insist on ignoring it...well, that's when they whip out the troll word.
I prefer (for now) to think of you as stubborn and ignorant. Most of the trolls have a tendency to act like they know better. So far, you just seem stubborn and clueless, which is why I've hung with you this far.
We really need you to lose about 2 or 3 grand so you'll start listening. People almost NEVER GET LUCKY on coins. People get SMART. People know a lot about some market segment, more than your average dealer. Those people can exploit that knowledge and make money. Those people buy from actual professionals but either exploit their knowledge or their different distribution channels to make money. People don't run around buying crap from strangers and make money.
I buy between $150,000 and $200,000 per year in coins and sell slightly more than that (about a 10% net margin). Almost all of those purchases come from dealers and auction houses. I rarely buy coins from amateurs and when I do they are usually low margin crap. How does it work? I have distribution channels that other dealers don't want to bother with. I buy largely in market segments that other dealers don't want to bother with. And, I have a day job, so I can work on very low margins.
I studied coins for 5 years as an adult after having collected from when I was a kid. I build relationships with dealers and observed and studied the market. I started dabbling in selling on eBay in 1997 when they were new. I gradually built up my risk tolerance, my knowledge base, and my inventory. I think you will find a similar story for almost all the part-time dealers around here. I think you will find a similar story for all the collectors on here. We made mistakes. We studied. We learned. We LISTENED to people with more knowledge and experience. We didn't run around trying to get "lucky".
I've seen people, eyes green with profit at auctions and shows. I've seen them come and go quickly with a pocket full of garbage that they can never sell for what they paid. Those are the treasure hunters. Those are YOU.
In the internet age, there is almost no excuse for prolonged ignorance. There are tremendous resources (including this board) that have all kinds of information on grading and authentication. You can pull up millions of auction results and other sales data. You can learn almost anything with a little desire and effort. Instead, we went from a crash course in Morgan dollars to a crash course in modern mint and proof sets to a crash course in Washington quarters. My 10 year old junior numismatists know more about Washington quarters than you do, because they study the Red book and spend hours on eBay and in coin shops.
It's been a week: what are the key date Morgans? Besides the 32-D and 32-S Washington quarters, what are the others worth looking at? What are the condition rarities in the series? What is the market price of an average circ set of Washington quarters? What are the markers on the 32-D and 32-S quarters? What is standard weight of a Morgan dollar? What is standard weight of a Washington quarter? Hell, what is the market price of a 2004 silver proof set? [You have like 3 of them, don't you?]
Stop trying to get lucky and start trying to get smart. Smart will get you farther. Louis Pasteur once said: Fortune favors the prepared mind. You should really think about what that means.
@jmlanzaf You are really spending an inordinate amount of time with this thread and poster. Are you a professional wrestler that enjoys the body slam? Give it a rest?
Seated Half Society member #38 "Got a flaming heart, can't get my fill"
Sometimes people write extensively for the benefit of a wider audience than the OP or active posters, we have many lurkers who read but haven't joined yet. Or for the challenge of articulating interesting thoughts.
At some point, all of this has been said countless times in the past, and will doubtless be covered in the future. Who knows, maybe coinscratch will help educate the next wave of newbies in 10 or 20 years.
If he's just having troll fun here, well played. Enjoyable for all.
@Catbert said: @jmlanzaf You are really spending an inordinate amount of time with this thread and poster. Are you a professional wrestler that enjoys the body slam? Give it a rest?
I'm not convinced this poster isn't worth a little time. He may just be stubborn and not trolling. People on here give up on people too quickly...sometimes based on their first post.
@jmlanzaf said:
I'm not convinced this poster isn't worth a little time. He may just be stubborn and not trolling. People on here give up on people too quickly...sometimes based on their first post.
I agree. The sad part is, many gung-ho collectors buy and accumulate stuff for years before they try to grade or sell anything. What they thought were nice brought uncirculated coins end up being cleaned or whizzed XF/AUs and they spent multiples of coins worth buying them ... partly because they 'believed seller' and were getting a 'good deal'.
@Catbert said: @jmlanzaf You are really spending an inordinate amount of time with this thread and poster. Are you a professional wrestler that enjoys the body slam? Give it a rest?
@Catbert said: @jmlanzaf You are really spending an inordinate amount of time with this thread and poster. Are you a professional wrestler that enjoys the body slam? Give it a rest?
ditto
Y'know, y'all are free just to ignore the thread. Instead, it popped back up because YOU commented on it. You, ironically, not me.
@Catbert said: @jmlanzaf You are really spending an inordinate amount of time with this thread and poster. Are you a professional wrestler that enjoys the body slam? Give it a rest?
ditto
Y'know, y'all are free just to ignore the thread. Instead, it popped back up because YOU commented on it. You, ironically, not me.
Okay, I kinda get it now. I'll try to be more quick and to the point in the future. So I guess I had it coming. Sorry for calling yall a bunch of losers and queens . Nonetheless, I bought the quarters today anyway. Here it comes, Eeeeeeekkk.
Dealer retail in the set would be around $550 if the 32D and S are good. If they aren't then $450.
I'll leave you with my previous thought. Learn to AUTHENTICATE. GRADE. VALUE.
Stop tryingto get lucky - you still haven't. Get smart. Otherwise you're goingto lose a ton of money to lady luck and drop the hobby in bitterness> @CoinscratchFever said:
@KollectorKing said:
Take the 1932-D & 1932-S out of the album. Then take some good pics of each coin both sides so they will look like these & post them.
I will post those individual pics later tonight. And after comparing to other pcgs pics I'm guessing mine will be lucky to hit vg10. But the 67 and 82 look promising.
VG polished isn't VG.
The 67 and 82 would have to grade top pop to be with more than a couple bucks
@KollectorKing said:
Take the 1932-D & 1932-S out of the album. Then take some good pics of each coin both sides so they will look like these & post them.
I will post those individual pics later tonight. And after comparing to other pcgs pics I'm guessing mine will be lucky to hit vg10. But the 67 and 82 look promising.
@tyler267 said:
Do both the coins in the 1932-d and 1932-s holes have mintmarks on the reverse? Obverse and reverse photos of those two coins would be very helpful.
Yes, I will post them tonight after work, along with some close ups of the mint marks.
A 1967 quarter in anything less than MS67 isn't worth the cost of submission.
A 1982 quarter in anything less than MS67 isn't worth the cost of submission.
You've got a collection of polished silver coins. What are the odds that the 1967 and 1982 are the finest known for those two years? Time to start using the old hat rack.
The fact remains that all those crooked dealers you are worried about would have charged you well under $600 for that set. I've actually sold better sets than that for $500 or less. FULL RETAIL on the 1965 through 1998 coins is $150 or so. All that polished crap before that is worth $250 tops. At most those polished VG 1932-D/1932-S coins are worth $50 each. Add it up.
You have to be a troll. No one could be this naive, after all we've told you. You've lost hundreds of dollars on those dollars and now these quarters. And you are still trying to get lucky.
STOP BUYING COINS UNTIL YOU CAN TELL THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN POLISHED AND ORIGINAL SURFACES. Or at least only buy slabbed coins where someone else has done your work for you.
don't be so harsh jmlanzaf, you do not want to squeeze the sellers profit so much that 'the wifes dead grandpa' can not go to a dealer, buy stuff and churn his collection some more with the sellers other relatives' share.
I remember a seller on eBay that was selling dead ancestors stuff forever, in small yellow envelopes and older typewritten descriptions.
@davewesen said:
don't be so harsh jmlanzaf, you do not want to squeeze the sellers profit so much that 'the wifes dead grandpa' can not go to a dealer, buy stuff and churn his collection some more with the sellers other relatives' share.
I remember a seller on eBay that was selling dead ancestors stuff forever, in small yellow envelopes and older typewritten descriptions.
It is ironic that the nice man in the pawn shop knows nothing about coins but always manages to find a retail+ price to charge this guy.
And how many polished coins is this guy going to buy before he takes a grading course?
I love newbies. The hobby needs newbies. But he's going to just burn himself out on crap, end up disillusioned and spend the rest of his life badmouthing the hobby. Well, unless he gets "lucky".
It is ironic that the nice man in the pawn shop knows nothing about coins but always manages to find a retail+ price to charge this guy.
Why? Anyone who doesn't know how to grade or anything can easily find retail+ prices. Consider the "alternative" prices for comparison on home shopping clubs.
It is ironic that the nice man in the pawn shop knows nothing about coins but always manages to find a retail+ price to charge this guy.
Why? Anyone who doesn't know how to grade or anything can easily find retail+ prices. Consider the "alternative" prices for comparison on home shopping clubs.
This completely misses the point. Go back and read the entire thread.
It was also sarcastic.
But, to the point, it is not so easy to come up with retail+ prices when you can't grade. People who truly don't know anything about coins either can't find comps or find the wrong comps. The guy selling these has been pretty much spot on at slightly above retail on everything. That is really hard to do unless you know something.
You think it is easy because you know something about coins. You should see some of the ridiculous comps people have brought to me when they actually are ignorant heirs. I've had people use MS-66 pricing for VF coins. I've had people looking at silver quarter prices for clad. I've had people do the opposite and actually take a brillo pad to coins to clean them up for sale.
If you don't believe me, go look at the silver $s that the OP paid $30 each for...and he's supposed to be a coin collector, not random ignorant heir.
Exactly. He had no trouble finding prices (to pay) far above retail. I think we are making the same point. It is hard to explain to someone that their lovingly collected statehood quarter set is actually worth below face value because the bank just won't accept it in the fancy packaging and someone has to unwrap it first.
Comments
Yeah, I don't get it. I wanna believe this guy is for real, but it is just too much.
But, hey, he did find the first ever 1984-D doubled ear variety.
Thats true and as I mentioned earlier. At the time I took the pics I had no idea I was going to be looking at quarters and didn't know to take pics of the 32 etc. I thought he was bringing dollars but I would have been in the same boat anyway. As I found out here there are no short answers.
I am hoping to look at them again this week and if I can I will get pics of all pages and post here for advice. In the event, he still has them, I still like them and wish to take at that moment (impulse). At what grade point in the 32 d is your cut off? Or if it falls below said grade do I still offer a price?
TO OP.
You have got to be* *kidding**by the last statement are you or really expecting another reply on that one.
Post for more advice really LOl
It has been laid out for you in great detail so make your own decision.
Thanks for answering him on BST. I thought it was the "Big Silly Troll" board !!
It’s really Bull S??L S??T Troll, like op’s posts to this thread.
This is why one of my original comments to you was that it was impossible for you to make a "fair offer". You are going to be too high or too low. The 32-D and 32-S have value in any grade - IF THEY ARE REAL. But other coins on the first two pages can also have significant value based on grade. So, to properly value a set, you need to be able (I'll repeat myself) to 1. AUTHENTICATE 2. GRADE 3. DETERMINE MARKET VALUE.
Based on the silver dollars, you failed at all 3. You've got at least one obvious fake $, possibly 2. Most of them appear to be polished. And you paid way over market value. And that was a small number of coins.
A BU set of Washington Quarters is $4000+. A fairly well circulated set (early dates) with all genuine key dates and UNC late dates is more like $600 to $700. A circulated set with fake key dates is more like $350 to $400. There is no way to give you a price that is fair. We could give you the safe lowball price ($300), but then it is you trying to take advantage of the "nice man".
But, now I'm repeating myself for the 3rd time.
On the bright side, my post count is going through the roof!
Your the troll kollector queen, why dont you put up or shut up. I never asked you for any of your bs.
ahem
Ahem
Ahem
Ahem
This is more like a train wreck than a crash course. I was expecting a bit of VAM dialogue.
Why was this OP given a Flag??
I do not know............but I have one and I think I've been pretty nice here
Successful transactions with : MICHAELDIXON, Manorcourtman, Bochiman, bolivarshagnasty, AUandAG, onlyroosies, chumley, Weiss, jdimmick, BAJJERFAN, gene1978, TJM965, Smittys, GRANDAM, JTHawaii, mainejoe, softparade, derryb
Bad transactions with : nobody to date
If you do not know what the key dates/mintmarks of a series are, you should not be buying a complete set - unless you are doing it with entertainment cash.
The fact that you took many pictures of extremely common coins very few people want and you DID NOT EVEN KNOW to look for the 32DS etc.......just took a bunch of pictures of really low priced difficult to move material......told me all I needed to know.
You have got to be pulling our legs.
Yep.
The guy who coincidentally walked into pawn shop = great white shark.
OP = wounded seal.
Likely the guy moving the coins is working with pawn shop employee, as several other posters have (I think) already said.
Well stop calling me a troll. The conspiracy theories run rampant here!
Well, to be fair,"troll" on this board has largely come to mean "someone who posts a question and then argues with the answer". Now, there are healthy debates on this board. But when EVERYONE is telling you the same thing and you insist on ignoring it...well, that's when they whip out the troll word.
I prefer (for now) to think of you as stubborn and ignorant. Most of the trolls have a tendency to act like they know better. So far, you just seem stubborn and clueless, which is why I've hung with you this far.
We really need you to lose about 2 or 3 grand so you'll start listening. People almost NEVER GET LUCKY on coins. People get SMART. People know a lot about some market segment, more than your average dealer. Those people can exploit that knowledge and make money. Those people buy from actual professionals but either exploit their knowledge or their different distribution channels to make money. People don't run around buying crap from strangers and make money.
I buy between $150,000 and $200,000 per year in coins and sell slightly more than that (about a 10% net margin). Almost all of those purchases come from dealers and auction houses. I rarely buy coins from amateurs and when I do they are usually low margin crap. How does it work? I have distribution channels that other dealers don't want to bother with. I buy largely in market segments that other dealers don't want to bother with. And, I have a day job, so I can work on very low margins.
I studied coins for 5 years as an adult after having collected from when I was a kid. I build relationships with dealers and observed and studied the market. I started dabbling in selling on eBay in 1997 when they were new. I gradually built up my risk tolerance, my knowledge base, and my inventory. I think you will find a similar story for almost all the part-time dealers around here. I think you will find a similar story for all the collectors on here. We made mistakes. We studied. We learned. We LISTENED to people with more knowledge and experience. We didn't run around trying to get "lucky".
I've seen people, eyes green with profit at auctions and shows. I've seen them come and go quickly with a pocket full of garbage that they can never sell for what they paid. Those are the treasure hunters. Those are YOU.
In the internet age, there is almost no excuse for prolonged ignorance. There are tremendous resources (including this board) that have all kinds of information on grading and authentication. You can pull up millions of auction results and other sales data. You can learn almost anything with a little desire and effort. Instead, we went from a crash course in Morgan dollars to a crash course in modern mint and proof sets to a crash course in Washington quarters. My 10 year old junior numismatists know more about Washington quarters than you do, because they study the Red book and spend hours on eBay and in coin shops.
It's been a week: what are the key date Morgans? Besides the 32-D and 32-S Washington quarters, what are the others worth looking at? What are the condition rarities in the series? What is the market price of an average circ set of Washington quarters? What are the markers on the 32-D and 32-S quarters? What is standard weight of a Morgan dollar? What is standard weight of a Washington quarter? Hell, what is the market price of a 2004 silver proof set? [You have like 3 of them, don't you?]
Stop trying to get lucky and start trying to get smart. Smart will get you farther. Louis Pasteur once said: Fortune favors the prepared mind. You should really think about what that means.
@jmlanzaf You are really spending an inordinate amount of time with this thread and poster. Are you a professional wrestler that enjoys the body slam?
Give it a rest?
"Got a flaming heart, can't get my fill"
Sometimes people write extensively for the benefit of a wider audience than the OP or active posters, we have many lurkers who read but haven't joined yet. Or for the challenge of articulating interesting thoughts.
At some point, all of this has been said countless times in the past, and will doubtless be covered in the future. Who knows, maybe coinscratch will help educate the next wave of newbies in 10 or 20 years.
If he's just having troll fun here, well played. Enjoyable for all.
Liberty: Parent of Science & Industry
I'm not convinced this poster isn't worth a little time. He may just be stubborn and not trolling. People on here give up on people too quickly...sometimes based on their first post.
I agree. The sad part is, many gung-ho collectors buy and accumulate stuff for years before they try to grade or sell anything. What they thought were nice brought uncirculated coins end up being cleaned or whizzed XF/AUs and they spent multiples of coins worth buying them ... partly because they 'believed seller' and were getting a 'good deal'.
ditto
Y'know, y'all are free just to ignore the thread. Instead, it popped back up because YOU commented on it. You, ironically, not me.
Okay, I kinda get it now. I'll try to be more quick and to the point in the future. So I guess I had it coming. Sorry for calling yall a bunch of losers and queens
. Nonetheless, I bought the quarters today anyway. Here it comes, Eeeeeeekkk.
I don't know why my pics don't come out in the order I loaded them. The 1967 looks pretty good.
Take the 1932-D & 1932-S out of the album. Then take some good pics of each coin both sides so they will look like these & post them.
I like the color on the 61, 63 and reverse of 66.
If you like set, then you did well.
Early ones all look polished. If you paid $700, you paid too much, especially if either of the key dates are fake
Dealer retail in the set would be around $550 if the 32D and S are good. If they aren't then $450.
I'll leave you with my previous thought. Learn to AUTHENTICATE. GRADE. VALUE.
Stop tryingto get lucky - you still haven't. Get smart. Otherwise you're goingto lose a ton of money to lady luck and drop the hobby in bitterness> @CoinscratchFever said:
VG polished isn't VG.
The 67 and 82 would have to grade top pop to be with more than a couple bucks
I will post those individual pics later tonight. And after comparing to other pcgs pics I'm guessing mine will be lucky to hit vg10. But the 67 and 82 look promising.
Do both the coins in the 1932-d and 1932-s holes have mintmarks on the reverse? Obverse and reverse photos of those two coins would be very helpful.
Yes, I will post them tonight after work, along with some close ups of the mint marks.
My YouTube Channel
A 1967 quarter in anything less than MS67 isn't worth the cost of submission.
A 1982 quarter in anything less than MS67 isn't worth the cost of submission.
You've got a collection of polished silver coins. What are the odds that the 1967 and 1982 are the finest known for those two years? Time to start using the old hat rack.
The fact remains that all those crooked dealers you are worried about would have charged you well under $600 for that set. I've actually sold better sets than that for $500 or less. FULL RETAIL on the 1965 through 1998 coins is $150 or so. All that polished crap before that is worth $250 tops. At most those polished VG 1932-D/1932-S coins are worth $50 each. Add it up.
You have to be a troll. No one could be this naive, after all we've told you. You've lost hundreds of dollars on those dollars and now these quarters. And you are still trying to get lucky.
STOP BUYING COINS UNTIL YOU CAN TELL THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN POLISHED AND ORIGINAL SURFACES. Or at least only buy slabbed coins where someone else has done your work for you.
don't be so harsh jmlanzaf, you do not want to squeeze the sellers profit so much that 'the wifes dead grandpa' can not go to a dealer, buy stuff and churn his collection some more with the sellers other relatives' share.
I remember a seller on eBay that was selling dead ancestors stuff forever, in small yellow envelopes and older typewritten descriptions.
It is ironic that the nice man in the pawn shop knows nothing about coins but always manages to find a retail+ price to charge this guy.
And how many polished coins is this guy going to buy before he takes a grading course?
I love newbies. The hobby needs newbies. But he's going to just burn himself out on crap, end up disillusioned and spend the rest of his life badmouthing the hobby. Well, unless he gets "lucky".
Why? Anyone who doesn't know how to grade or anything can easily find retail+ prices. Consider the "alternative" prices for comparison on home shopping clubs.
This completely misses the point. Go back and read the entire thread.
It was also sarcastic.
But, to the point, it is not so easy to come up with retail+ prices when you can't grade. People who truly don't know anything about coins either can't find comps or find the wrong comps. The guy selling these has been pretty much spot on at slightly above retail on everything. That is really hard to do unless you know something.
You think it is easy because you know something about coins. You should see some of the ridiculous comps people have brought to me when they actually are ignorant heirs. I've had people use MS-66 pricing for VF coins. I've had people looking at silver quarter prices for clad. I've had people do the opposite and actually take a brillo pad to coins to clean them up for sale.
If you don't believe me, go look at the silver $s that the OP paid $30 each for...and he's supposed to be a coin collector, not random ignorant heir.
Exactly. He had no trouble finding prices (to pay) far above retail. I think we are making the same point. It is hard to explain to someone that their lovingly collected statehood quarter set is actually worth below face value because the bank just won't accept it in the fancy packaging and someone has to unwrap it first.
What the hell are yall talking about
Heres your 67 in a 67...
Pictures are kinda blurry and I have to post separately because they get all mixed up.
S
