can we please get back to how bidding up auctions everytime you come home from work is saving you money? If you decide on a price and set a snipe you do not allow the other bidder to raise your price. What is there not to understand or get. Not to mention the SHILL factor.
If you are willing to bid 400 or an a card snipe 400. If you get it for less good for you. If not go get them the next time.
I would be willing to bet shill bids have cost you money. Not to mention you came on here several times and told everyone what you planned on bidding.
You guys are buying stale baseball card auctions. I completely understand your theory there.
As I said last time, if you look the snipe bidders got boned so hard on the last singles auction. The Hogan went from $300 to $503. Many cards doubled and trippled on the close. I have no interest in setting bids that much higher then the current bid.
<< <i>You guys are buying stale baseball card auctions. I completely understand your theory there.
As I said last time, if you look the snipe bidders got boned so hard on the last singles auction. The Hogan went from $300 to $503. Many cards doubled and trippled on the close. I have no interest in setting bids that much higher then the current bid. >>
<< <i>You guys are buying stale baseball card auctions. I completely understand your theory there.
As I said last time, if you look the snipe bidders got boned so hard on the last singles auction. The Hogan went from $300 to $503. Many cards doubled and trippled on the close. I have no interest in setting bids that much higher then the current bid. >>
If snipe bidders got "boned" when they used a snipe, then they would have also gotten "boned" if they didn't use a snipe. There is no way that setting a snipe bid can leave a bidder worse off than if they put in the same bid with several days left in the auction. Setting a snipe bid will either give you the same result, and the likelihood of a better result, as your type of early bidding. I don't agree with the concept that other bidders somehow recognize that you've bid (eg. "OH CARP, its Dpeck....I'm outta here") and are scared away by the potential strength of your early bid. Many bidders have no idea what they want to pay or what they think the value is....but what they will do is pay $2 over whatever the current bid happens to be. If you've set up a snipe, they don't have the opportunity to do this.
I am not scaring off anyone any more trust me. I have in the past and really have no reason to make that up. There are new buyers in here who are agressive. I have become frustrated because I can't win the cards I want at the prices I want to pay.
The Hogan card went from $130 a month and a half ago to $503 to a current auction at $654. This is a very fast moving market.
I have no influence anymore at all. I lost out on cards last week by a mile. A good example was the Andre, I bid $30 and it sold for $157.
So from your perspective, bidding early is more about preventing you from getting caught up in the frenzy and paying more than you intended to pay? Not really about trying to win the auction at a lower price, its more about personal control?
The point I am making is my bids are not driving most of the auctions. I have fun bidding on items. I like to push the price to where I am willing to pay and then stop. If it keeps going I quit. If it stops going up and I win great.
I like to actively bid to see where others are willing to pay. This gives me an idea of what my downside really is. The only cards I have really paid up for were the Flair PSA 10, Dusty Rhodes PSA 10, and Superstar Billy Graham PSA 10. I wanted to win those and did not really care how much I paid becuase I knew how unique they were.
The vast majority of the time as I said before I bid and see what happens. As I have said there have been many auctions in the past where I was the only bidder or one other person who had a very low opening bid and quit.
I do not believe in a rising market that you can keep the price down by waiting until the end. If you are bidding on a card that comes up all the time and has plenty in circulation and the market is not out of ballance then yes snipe bidding would work.
It won't when cards like Andre have gone from $8 to a sale of a $157.
You're assuming that everyone else is putting in their "best bids" early, just like you are. I still think there are way more "current bid +$2" guys out there. Regardless of how hot the card is, sniping will still protect you from the current bid +$2 guys. And you've basically said that you like bidding the auctions up to see where others have bid. A snipe would give you the same info for the underbidders.
What don't you people understand, Dbag100 has a degree from the top Economics Learning Institution in Florida and understands the "market" like none of you could dream of.
<< <i>What don't you people understand, Dbag100 has a degree from the top Economics Learning Institution in Florida and understands the "market" like none of you could dream of. >>
So basically my kid won't be able to go to college, but at least I'll have a set where the three most expensive cards are of a player I despise ~ CDsNuts
I think the people who are personally ripping dpeck are losers.. i never understood why people who don't like a topic bother clicking on it. But i have to agree with everyone else about the snipe. there is zero downside. and you can always up your bid if you see the price rising and decide you are willing to pay more. You have zero downside. I don't really care what you do.. but i kinda get the frustration when people are trying to explain something and you just aren't getting it. The volatility of the auction doesn't make a difference. Actually the vol might affect your snipe bid... but it shouldn't affect the effectiveness of using snipe. I'm not sure what you trade.. but say you were planning on buying an illiquid equity. You wouldn't just enter a market order and let the market rip you up. You would prob enter a limit order and increase it according to how the mkt is reacting. Thats the same as a snipe.
Eagles I would agree on your stock analogy that yes you would use a limit order and work from there.
If the world were black and white it would be a boring place. The last six items I won and bid right when they were listed and no one else bid. The fourteen items before that I did the same and two items moved seventy five cents.
If I paid a dollar fifty more I could care less.
EBay is an open market and everyone can treat it how they wish. I said from day one it gives me something to have fun with and if that costs me a few more bucks over the long run then it is worth it to me.
<< <i>Eagles I would agree on your stock analogy that yes you would use a limit order and work from there.
If the world were black and white it would be a boring place. The last six items I won and bid right when they were listed and no one else bid. The fourteen items before that I did the same and two items moved seventy five cents.
If I paid a dollar fifty more I could care less.
EBay is an open market and everyone can treat it how they wish. I said from day one it gives me something to have fun with and if that costs me a few more bucks over the long run then it is worth it to me. >>
So, did Lehman Brothers keep you on until the very end or did they let you go before the collapse?
It doesn't look my bidding strategy hurt me folks. >>
Actually, just looking at that one auction, it did hurt you.
2 people were bidding, yourself and one other guy. Had you sniped, instead of getting into a bidding war, you probably would have won it for $103 (instead of $153).
But it's your money, so do whatever you want to do.
So basically my kid won't be able to go to college, but at least I'll have a set where the three most expensive cards are of a player I despise ~ CDsNuts
7***k( 2061) puts in his original bid of $99. No one else bids, so 7***k thinks he got it and no need to increase. You come in at last second with snipe of $153.50 (your MAX bid)and win it for $102.50
Does that make sense to you?
So basically my kid won't be able to go to college, but at least I'll have a set where the three most expensive cards are of a player I despise ~ CDsNuts
7***k( 2061) puts in his original bid of $99. No one else bids, so 7***k thinks he got it and no need to increase. You come in at last second with snipe of $153.50 (your MAX bid)and win it for $102.50
Does that make sense to you? >>
The complete set was the same too. If he snipes he gets it for $56 instead of $67. Probably still doesn't make sense to him.
I am not on and $8 budget!! If I want the card I buy it. I look at oppurtunity cost and if it means getting a slightly better deal or risking not winning on an item I really want spending $8 more is worth it to me.
I am not certain why that is such a strange concept.
<< <i>I am not on and $8 budget!! If I want the card I buy it. I look at oppurtunity cost and if it means getting a slightly better deal or risking not winning on an item I really want spending $8 more is worth it to me.
I am not certain why that is such a strange concept. >>
We are not educated with that "advanced" degree in economics that you have!
<< <i>I am not on and $8 budget!! If I want the card I buy it. I look at oppurtunity cost and if it means getting a slightly better deal or risking not winning on an item I really want spending $8 more is worth it to me.
I am not certain why that is such a strange concept. >>
Just between the 2 auctions mentioned above, I see a total of $62. You don't have to repeat this process too many times before the extra money becomes significant. The money saved could be spent on more cards. How many cards would you basically be getting for free?
BTW, the one you paid $1225 for, you get for about $600 if you snipe and shut your mouth (or fingers in this case).
Dpeck, did you really just basically say that you don't care about spending way more than you could have on an auction, simply because you still got it for less than the price that some other auction ended?
Not a very financially sound way of thinking. What was the name of the course that discussed this financial strategy?
The only one I was disapointed with was the Mike Tyson card. I have said that on here before. The thread about that card was what got me posting on here.
Eagles is the other bidder who drove it up. He bid $81.01.
A s for the rest of the cards here are some auctions I lost and you will see you are wrong. Those were 1/1 PSA 10's I wanted for my collections.
$654 + $196 + $117 + 33 more cards = $1000. I paid $153. I valued the rest of the cards at $1. Explain to me how potentially saving, key word potentially saving was worth missing out on the potenial gain of $847.
Sorry guys if I want to pay $30 more or what ever number becuase I think something will be more expensive in the future that is my perogative.
<< <i>The only one I was disapointed with was the Mike Tyson card. I have said that on here before. The thread about that card was what got me posting on here.
Eagles is the other bidder who drove it up. He bid $81.01.
A s for the rest of the cards here are some auctions I lost and you will see you are wrong. Those were 1/1 PSA 10's I wanted for my collections.
110569034255 110569034708 >>
If you snipe the Tyson card, the high bid is at $17 with a few seconds left.
110569034255 and 110569034708 you get for $42 instead of losing them at $47 if you snipe. Probably even less than that but you had already jacked up the price by bidding early and often.
Comments
If you are willing to bid 400 or an a card snipe 400. If you get it for less good for you. If not go get them the next time.
I would be willing to bet shill bids have cost you money. Not to mention you came on here several times and told everyone what you planned on bidding.
TTT
1957 Topps 99% 7.40 GPA
Hank Aaron Basic PSA 7-8(75%)
Plus, it would do no good with almost half dozen people fighting for these cards.
As I said last time, if you look the snipe bidders got boned so hard on the last singles auction. The Hogan went from $300 to $503. Many cards doubled and trippled on the close. I have no interest in setting bids that much higher then the current bid.
<< <i>The best part is you make fun of me for these and I own Hogans at $50 in awesome condition. So sorry fellas. >>
We make fun of you because you are a douchebag!
<< <i>You guys are buying stale baseball card auctions. I completely understand your theory there.
As I said last time, if you look the snipe bidders got boned so hard on the last singles auction. The Hogan went from $300 to $503. Many cards doubled and trippled on the close. I have no interest in setting bids that much higher then the current bid. >>
Serenity now... Serenity now!!!
You guys are a bunch of haters. It is very simple.
Jeff
Miscut Museum
My Mess
Jeff
Miscut Museum
My Mess
Jeff
Miscut Museum
My Mess
Jeff
Miscut Museum
My Mess
Jeff
Miscut Museum
My Mess
Jeff
Miscut Museum
My Mess
Jeff
Miscut Museum
My Mess
Jeff
Miscut Museum
My Mess
Jeff
Miscut Museum
My Mess
<< <i>You guys are buying stale baseball card auctions. I completely understand your theory there.
As I said last time, if you look the snipe bidders got boned so hard on the last singles auction. The Hogan went from $300 to $503. Many cards doubled and trippled on the close. I have no interest in setting bids that much higher then the current bid. >>
If snipe bidders got "boned" when they used a snipe, then they would have also gotten "boned" if they didn't use a snipe. There is no way that setting a snipe bid can leave a bidder worse off than if they put in the same bid with several days left in the auction. Setting a snipe bid will either give you the same result, and the likelihood of a better result, as your type of early bidding. I don't agree with the concept that other bidders somehow recognize that you've bid (eg. "OH CARP, its Dpeck....I'm outta here") and are scared away by the potential strength of your early bid. Many bidders have no idea what they want to pay or what they think the value is....but what they will do is pay $2 over whatever the current bid happens to be. If you've set up a snipe, they don't have the opportunity to do this.
Always buying Bobby Cox inserts. PM me.
The Hogan card went from $130 a month and a half ago to $503 to a current auction at $654. This is a very fast moving market.
I have no influence anymore at all. I lost out on cards last week by a mile. A good example was the Andre, I bid $30 and it sold for $157.
Always buying Bobby Cox inserts. PM me.
Always buying Bobby Cox inserts. PM me.
I like to actively bid to see where others are willing to pay. This gives me an idea of what my downside really is. The only cards I have really paid up for were the Flair PSA 10, Dusty Rhodes PSA 10, and Superstar Billy Graham PSA 10. I wanted to win those and did not really care how much I paid becuase I knew how unique they were.
The vast majority of the time as I said before I bid and see what happens. As I have said there have been many auctions in the past where I was the only bidder or one other person who had a very low opening bid and quit.
I do not believe in a rising market that you can keep the price down by waiting until the end. If you are bidding on a card that comes up all the time and has plenty in circulation and the market is not out of ballance then yes snipe bidding would work.
It won't when cards like Andre have gone from $8 to a sale of a $157.
<< <i>Sweet cards, Jeff. I used to have nightmares about the Iron Shiek. >>
Thank you.
I'll finish the set someday I hope.
Jeff
Miscut Museum
My Mess
Always buying Bobby Cox inserts. PM me.
<< <i> I like to push the price to where I am willing to pay and then stop. >>
Not me, I'd rather not push the price at all. More often than not, if you don't push the price, you pay less...
<< <i>What don't you people understand, Dbag100 has a degree from the top Economics Learning Institution in Florida and understands the "market" like none of you could dream of. >>
ADVANCED degree.
Always buying Bobby Cox inserts. PM me.
If the world were black and white it would be a boring place. The last six items I won and bid right when they were listed and no one else bid. The fourteen items before that I did the same and two items moved seventy five cents.
If I paid a dollar fifty more I could care less.
EBay is an open market and everyone can treat it how they wish. I said from day one it gives me something to have fun with and if that costs me a few more bucks over the long run then it is worth it to me.
<< <i>Eagles I would agree on your stock analogy that yes you would use a limit order and work from there.
If the world were black and white it would be a boring place. The last six items I won and bid right when they were listed and no one else bid. The fourteen items before that I did the same and two items moved seventy five cents.
If I paid a dollar fifty more I could care less.
EBay is an open market and everyone can treat it how they wish. I said from day one it gives me something to have fun with and if that costs me a few more bucks over the long run then it is worth it to me. >>
So, did Lehman Brothers keep you on until the very end or did they let you go before the collapse?
1982 Wrestling All Stars set for $153
1982 Wrestling All Stars B for $67
1985 Topps Hulk Hogan PSA 9 for $30
It doesn't look my bidding strategy hurt me folks.
<< <i>Here are a couple of nice buys for you guys to chew on.
1982 Wrestling All Stars set for $153
It doesn't look my bidding strategy hurt me folks. >>
Actually, just looking at that one auction, it did hurt you.
2 people were bidding, yourself and one other guy. Had you sniped, instead of getting into a bidding war, you probably would have won it for $103 (instead of $153).
But it's your money, so do whatever you want to do.
7***k( 2061) puts in his original bid of $99. No one else bids, so 7***k thinks he got it and no need to increase. You come in at last second with snipe of $153.50 (your MAX bid)and win it for $102.50
Does that make sense to you?
So lets get this straight, we have a Hogan at $654, a Flair at $196, and an Andre at $117.
And my bidding strategy is bad. So lets assume I could have bought this for less, do you really think I care????
When you are buying up product you want to win, you and win at a price that works for you.
<< <i>And just to elaborate...
7***k( 2061) puts in his original bid of $99. No one else bids, so 7***k thinks he got it and no need to increase. You come in at last second with snipe of $153.50 (your MAX bid)and win it for $102.50
Does that make sense to you? >>
The complete set was the same too. If he snipes he gets it for $56 instead of $67. Probably still doesn't make sense to him.
I am not certain why that is such a strange concept.
<< <i>I am not on and $8 budget!! If I want the card I buy it. I look at oppurtunity cost and if it means getting a slightly better deal or risking not winning on an item I really want spending $8 more is worth it to me.
I am not certain why that is such a strange concept. >>
We are not educated with that "advanced" degree in economics that you have!
<< <i>I am not on and $8 budget!! If I want the card I buy it. I look at oppurtunity cost and if it means getting a slightly better deal or risking not winning on an item I really want spending $8 more is worth it to me.
I am not certain why that is such a strange concept. >>
Just between the 2 auctions mentioned above, I see a total of $62. You don't have to repeat this process too many times before the extra money becomes significant. The money saved could be spent on more cards. How many cards would you basically be getting for free?
BTW, the one you paid $1225 for, you get for about $600 if you snipe and shut your mouth (or fingers in this case).
This ONE you get for $78.37 instead of $93.87
This ONE you get for $26.50 instead of $40.95
This ONE you probably get for $15 instead of $32
This ONE you get for $9.50 instead of $16.50
This ONE you probably get for $25-30 instead of $82.01
Do I need to continue or do you get the point?
Dpeck, did you really just basically say that you don't care about spending way more than you could have on an auction, simply because you still got it for less than the price that some other auction ended?
Not a very financially sound way of thinking. What was the name of the course that discussed this financial strategy?
Eagles is the other bidder who drove it up. He bid $81.01.
A s for the rest of the cards here are some auctions I lost and you will see you are wrong. Those were 1/1 PSA 10's I wanted for my collections.
110569034255
110569034708
Lets do a little math.
$654 + $196 + $117 + 33 more cards = $1000. I paid $153. I valued the rest of the cards at $1. Explain to me how potentially saving, key word potentially saving was worth missing out on the potenial gain of $847.
Sorry guys if I want to pay $30 more or what ever number becuase I think something will be more expensive in the future that is my perogative.
<< <i>The only one I was disapointed with was the Mike Tyson card. I have said that on here before. The thread about that card was what got me posting on here.
Eagles is the other bidder who drove it up. He bid $81.01.
A s for the rest of the cards here are some auctions I lost and you will see you are wrong. Those were 1/1 PSA 10's I wanted for my collections.
110569034255
110569034708 >>
If you snipe the Tyson card, the high bid is at $17 with a few seconds left.
110569034255 and 110569034708 you get for $42 instead of losing them at $47 if you snipe. Probably even less than that but you had already jacked up the price by bidding early and often.
What else you got?
For or against it?
Please discuss.
Jeff
Miscut Museum
My Mess
<< <i>Christianity.
For or against it?
Please discuss.
How about some politics too?
<< <i>Christianity.
For or against it?
Please discuss.
I prefer to discuss Christmas
<< <i>
<< <i>Christianity.
For or against it?
Please discuss.
How about some politics too? >>
Absolutely.
Gerald Ford.
Klutz or was something else going on at the White House?
Please discuss.
Jeff
Miscut Museum
My Mess