Do you have target grades for your collection?

Rob9874

I'm currently reevaluating my collecting focus and strategy, in a good way. I've enjoyed searching the forums for older threads on variations of this topic, just to see other people's thought process on how they collect. Thought I would start a new topic to pick people's brains. I know the adage: collect what you like. That's what I am doing, but I'm just tweaking a few parameters, and enjoy hearing other numismatists' ideas.

My main collection is a US Type Set, pretty much a 7070, but 1st year of the type or variation, PCGS graded, and preferably CAC'd. Part of my reevaluation is target grades. They say to get the best grade you can afford. I would say I'm comfortable spending $10k-$12k/yr on coins. If I wanted to buy 1 coin per year, that would be a pretty nice Lincoln cent! But I need more action than that. So I've been targeting $250-$500 coins, sometimes more for something special. For instance, I had resorted to a 2nd year 1917 SLQ, as 1916's are a bit out of my reach. But I saw a PCGS 1916 PO1 CAC last month and had to get it! Fits my 1st year type set perfectly, even CAC'd. And although it's the lowest grade of my collection, it's the most expensive.

As I've picked up coins along the way, I noticed that a large number of my 20th century coins are MS66+ (I mentioned this in a recent Long Beach Expo report, apologies if you heard it). So now I'm looking to upgrade those that aren't. Within reason, I don't think I'll be upgrading my 1916 SLQ or 1916 Walking Liberty Half to 66+'s. Then I started looking at 19th century type coins. I think I'm leaning towards AU58 for 1850-1899. Something lower for 1800-1849.

So I would love to hear your thoughts on your own collections.
What do you collect? And do you have target grades, or minimum grades?

When a certain coin or year is affordable outside your target grade, do you buy the higher grade, or stick to your target for consistency? For example, I'm targeting an MS65 1883 Liberty V Nickel. But I'm not sure I want to drop $2000 on an MS65 1866 Shield Nickel. I could split the difference and get both in MS63. Decisions, decisions

LeeBone

Yes.
For my Complete 97 Coin Set of Morgan Dollars my target is set for a minimum of 60. I am at 59.099 at this moment. Tough to move up to the 60 Grade...

TurtleCat

Not really. In my chosen series it would be prohibitively expensive to have them all be uncirculated and some would be hard to find at even low grades.

For my raw albums I’ve mostly done from change or inherited bulk silver. So a mixture from AG to uncirculated.

OAKSTAR

Yes.
For my complete 83 coin set of Washington Quarters, my target was set for 64.

Che_Grapes

Peace dollars set - mostly complete (no I do not have high grade 34S for example) but have all the P mints in 64 or 65 - I refer to that as near gem to gem. No lower than 64 for me, and no toning either. Easier said than done but I’m getting there —

ctf_error_coins

I try to have an average grade of MS65.

ShaunBC5

I really just have target grades on a per-coin basis. Sometimes it can be a little broader - for instance common date Morgans I want 64 or 65. My Proof Franklin half collection has a minimum grade of 65, but I didn’t demand 65s of the later years where higher grades are plentiful and comparatively cheap.
For my overall collection it’s a hodgepodge of grades and I’m cool with that, at least for now.

hfjacinto

I buy what I like and rarely look at grades. Sometimes that means a VF.

Other times it means a 70 grade.

pursuitofliberty

I usually collect in a grade range. This has multiple advantages as I think it's easier to "see" a three to five spot range and understand what to look for, as well as keeping some uniformity to the overall collection.

My primary Bust Half collection is AU. All 100 of the primary DM's and 5 duplicates are 50 to 58 (four spots), primarily hovering at 55. I do not expect that to change.

justmenutty72

I prefer nice lustrous AU coins. Some (a lot) of key dates and varieties in BU are just too cost prohibitive. With patience, the right AU will eventually become available and that’s when I strike 🐍😎 it’s all about eye appeal at that point👌Oh, and cash flow too😂🤣😅

gumby1234

For my Roosevelt dimes 46-64PDS set MS67 is my minimum. I have another Roosie set 46PDS to present including proofs in a Danso those are choice to gem Uncs.

Other coins I buy whatever grade I like and can afford.

silverpop

No i'm not into grades just if the coin gets my notice then it's into the collection

Cougar1978

As far as my inventory G04 lowest I will go. Generally I like MS64 and above.

MarkInDavis

Consistency is overrated. I prefer the variety of different grades.

Rob9874

Speaking of variety of grades, one of my side projects to keep me active (since 1st year type coins graded by PCGS with a CAC sticker and in my budget don't come around often) is a 1917 Ty1 SLQ grading set. Well, I'm just getting started. I got the XF40 in the mail today. The pics on eBay looked rather lackluster, but in hand, this thing looks nice for an XF40! Has quite a bit of luster.

And while I'm showing SLQ's, here's my 1916:

JWP

My target for my collection is Price - Price - Price. If I can afford it, I hit my target. My collection is like walking into Walmart - You find a lot different themes, all of which I like, and probably no one else will.

Mr_Spud

For my 19th century circulated type set, the only set I really ever work on, I pretty much go for AU58 for most or VF30 or so for the tough earlier ones, but if I see a coin that has good eye appeal I’ll get that one even if it’s different than those but most tend to be close to those 2 grades.

amwldcoin

My Barber Halves started out with a PCGS F12 set....that evolved into complete sets of PCGS graded Barber Halves in F12,F15,VF20,VF25, VF30,VF35,XF40,XF45, and AU58. Don't ask me why...just seemed like a challenging thing to do. Took me a decade to complete and boy was it fun! When I started many of the coins in the set hadn't even been made in some of the grades. I made some of the 1st. I'm still looking to replace a few with the look I want.

Personally, I can't see that P1 16 quarter sitting in the middle of your 66's! Maybe add a 17 to your set in 66!

Rob9874

@amwldcoin said:
My Barber Halves started out with a PCGS F12 set....that evolved into complete sets of PCGS graded Barber Halves in F12,F15,VF20,VF25, VF30,VF35,XF40,XF45, and AU58. Don't ask me why...just seemed like a challenging thing to do.

Wow, that's impressive!!

Personally, I can't see that P1 16 quarter sitting in the middle of your 66's! Maybe add a 17 to your set in 66!

Yep, considering it. Maybe not FH. I have a MS66+ 1939 Walking Liberty Half and Washington Quarter on my want list too.

Paradisefound

🤔 I could see some dilemma on setting a narrow parameters ….. especially in this hubby.

64 the very least for my Peace and selectively on the Buffs although I would settle on F for 1918/7 or the 3 legged beast for premiums.

Gold and such are depending on the kind as well as rarity so it could be everywhere as far as the grades ……. depends on the pop & aesthetic and what I am willing to spend ☺️

Modern has to be 70!

Good luck for the Shield 🥰

PTVETTER

I started my Mercury dime set with a goal of MS60
I guess a target grade can move.
In fact I only wanted a short set and It grew larger than I ever though it would!
Still having fun.

winesteven

Like you, I’m enamored with the concept of a Dansco 7070 Type Set, and I finished mine about three years ago. I believe regardless of one’s budget, just focus on a range of how much you’re comfortable spending on each coin, recognizing the grades in your set WILL vary tremendously, and that’s ok. For example, one of your modern quarters might be graded PR69DCAM (or PR70DCAM), but your Bust Quarter will be graded a LOT lower! As noted, that’s OK.

Since you can use Proof coins in these sets, I chose to use them often. Proof coins not only have much nicer eye appeal, quite often they are less expensive than Mint State coins in the same grade!

Like you, I chose to also try to have coins in my set that merit CAC stickers.

Happy Hunting!

Steve

Raybo

2 cent pieces with all business and proof strikes MS 65 BROWN with all major varities.
I'm almost there, just need a few updates and than I move on to another.....

keyman64

Yes, for Mercury Dimes 1934-1945, I prefer at least MS67+FB but for the right example or situation a 67 can work. I guess there are exceptions but I do not want to buy lower grade stuff only to need to go through the effort of upgrading and then selling the lesser example etc.

Rob9874

@keyman64 said:
Yes, for Mercury Dimes 1934-1945, I prefer at least MS67+FB but for the right example or situation a 67 can work. I guess there are exceptions but I do not want to buy lower grade stuff only to need to go through the effort of upgrading and then selling the lesser example etc.

I like your style. I pick up MS67FBs when I can find them cheap. Now you're making me want to go for the "+".

keyman64

@Rob9874 said:

@keyman64 said:
Yes, for Mercury Dimes 1934-1945, I prefer at least MS67+FB but for the right example or situation a 67 can work. I guess there are exceptions but I do not want to buy lower grade stuff only to need to go through the effort of upgrading and then selling the lesser example etc.

I like your style. I pick up MS67FBs when I can find them cheap. Now you're making me want to go for the "+".

Go big or go home. Upgrading is always a pain. For what I am working on, 67+FB and 68FB tend to be the plan. There might be a couple of exceptions...higher for the 39-D and lower for dates where the toning quality is tougher to find.

savitale

Yes, within a range. I try to avoid situations where most of the coins are MS but the key dates are AG/G. My Seated Dime set is basically VF25 to AU55.

privatecoin

Focused lately to upgrade to all 66 or better on all my Kennedys,

BaronVonBaugh

A minimum of PR67 in my Jefferson nickel sets. I need to upgrade my 1950 as it is currently a PR66CAM.

messydesk

Not really. I'll buy what looks nice and what makes sense.

alefzero

For nearly everything I collect, that is impossible. I do die varieties and you seize opportunities. An example is the 1798 BB-110 dollar terminal die state. The variety is tough enough. I have an intermediate state in PCGS XF. This one came up (Fine details to me) with two holes in it. I only know of one other example and it is the only mint state specimen for the variety known at that.

I did, however, target grade 70 for my ASEs and proof Ikes, and 68 for the BU Ikes. Also doing 70 for my BU/PF Shawnee and Poarch Creek Sovereign dollars.

jesbroken

Yes, varies with rarity.
Jim

ricko

No target grade. I buy what attracts me... Not slab, label, sticker or grade. Cheers, RickO

johnny9434

i always liked a 45 or 55, looks and apeall are helpful on the rest

matt_dac

For my now complete set of Indian gold quarter eagles I acquired AU58-MS61.

For other type coins it depends.

rodepetdinosaur

I usually shoot for MS grades, but some coins are prohibitively expensive in that condition (think 93-S Morgan, etc.)
In that case i'll go for a nice AU or even VF specimen. I tend to have a max I'll spend for any one coin. Would rather
have a coin to fill the gap even if it doesn't seem to fit with Unc specimens

Catbert

I prefer AU, even if I can afford UNC for a particular type. However, there is quality to be found at every grade level. I focus on eye appeal as the primary factor.

Rondor

I try more for target prices but its complicated and a moving target over time. Sometime the difference from one grade to the next is too much to financially absorb so that must be considered. In the end I try to find the best example for the grade possible that is eye appealing to me.

WilliamF

It depends on the series and the type, for example; Silver Washington Quarters, ranges from VG10- MS/PR67, I like a nice shiny one, but I really like the ones with good, honest wear as well. Probably 50% of my set is under VF30 and I love it that way
Large cents: varies by type.
Liberty Cap: AG3-F12
Draped Bust: G6-VF20
Classic Head: G6-VF20
Coronet Head: VG10-XF45
Braided Hair: VF30-MS60

Obviously there are exceptions but these are what I look for as a general rule, weird isn't it?

EDIT: basically I'm just all across the board, what ever looks good to me

Glen2022

Working on 2 1/2 Indian. Looking for MS 58-63 area but will probably have to get something lower for the 11D. Even so, If I would see a good looking 53 or 55, might pick that up.

Treashunt

I like the best that I can afford.

crazyhounddog

I collect coins I find attractive. That’s number one. The deal is, after it’s all said and done, the coins I find attractive are generally 65-67 . That’s the range my collection generally falls into. It’s all about the beauty, luster, strike and the way the coin presents itself. It must be beautiful.

Elcontador

@ShaunBC5 said:
I really just have target grades on a per-coin basis. Sometimes it can be a little broader - for instance common date Morgans I want 64 or 65. My Proof Franklin half collection has a minimum grade of 65, but I didn’t demand 65s of the later years where higher grades are plentiful and comparatively cheap.
For my overall collection it’s a hodgepodge of grades and I’m cool with that, at least for now.

Likewise. Ie., for my type set, the later date Large and Half Cents are MS 65 RB, while the IHC is MS 65 RD.
My Heraldic Eagle Bust $ is AU 53, the Seated $s MS 64. Try and buy the individual coins at the grade below a huge price bump. Ie., the difference between an MS 64 and MS 65 Seated $ is several small ticks or good, but not great luster on the coin. The difference isn't worth an additional $5-$10K to me.

SanctionII

For my core collecting area of 1950-1970 Proof and SMS coinage my preferred grade range is PF65CAM and above (and PF67 and above in brilliant).

As one gets past the year 1952 it becomes much easier to find these coins in higher grades so ideally I would like to have them all be PF67CAM and above.

WAYNEAS

@privatecoin said:
Focused lately to upgrade to all 66 or better on all my Kennedys,

My goal on my Kennedy sets is to have them all MS67 or better. It does get pricy so I need to pick and choose carefully.
My basic circulation set has a rating of 66.618 with an average grade of 67.131. It is currently ranked at number11.
There are many 66’s that I want to upgrade but it will take a long time and money to do so.
Best of luck to in achieving your goal.
Wayne

bagofnickels

I've been buying/collecting WLHs for the last 2 years now. I'm hoping to finish a set from 1933-1947. I went for the MS65 grade (with a few 64s and 66s sprinkled in) for the 40s now I'm going to buy all AU for the 30s. Tbis will mean a few like the 41s, 38d and 33s will cost more and thats okay. That expense is mitigated by the cheaper common dates.

I also have a 7070 and for that one I just buy coins I genuinely like and find appealing in one way or another. Those grades range from good to PR69DCAM.

I've been thoroughly enjoying both of these endeavors. I also love mercury dimes, indian head cents and jefferson nickels though those tend to take a backseat to the walkers and type set.

Really enjoyed hearing how you guys collect.

asheland

If it's affordable, I like 65 on most of my paper and type gold, Morgans, too.
Other stuff, as low as F12 and on moderns, 70.

LJenkins11

When I assembled a basic date and mintmark Peace Dollar set the minimum grade for me was MS64. After that my focus became 19th century half dollars (Capped Bust and Liberty Seated) XF40-45 across the board. With a few lapses in discipline, I have acquired a few higher-graded pieces.

rokky

No certain grades for me. Eye appeal is the most important factor.

TomB

I don't have target grades or ranges per se, but do tend to have coins cluster around or within a grade range based upon the series I am looking to buy. Things such as 18th century dollars might be EF, Reeded Edge half dollars Ch EF through MS or Washington quarters MS66 give or take a point or two.

privatecoin

@WAYNEAS said:

@privatecoin said:
Focused lately to upgrade to all 66 or better on all my Kennedys,

My goal on my Kennedy sets is to have them all MS67 or better. It does get pricy so I need to pick and choose carefully.
My basic circulation set has a rating of 66.618 with an average grade of 67.131. It is currently ranked at number11.
There are many 66’s that I want to upgrade but it will take a long time and money to do so.
Best of luck to in achieving your goal.
Wayne

You too. I may aim that high someday, but with my budget 66 is challenge enough.