Lots of, "it depends" to answer this question. If competing for a top registry slot, then you go big or go home. If your goal is a top 10-25 set then the goals get adjusted respectively. If you are going for a certain look then that will often dictate your price point. I would vote to have a similar grade range for aesthetic purposes. For one particular series I am working on now, there is a point where the price of the coin starts going up exponentially for every point upgraded. If you can stay a point below where the curve increases dramatically and find coins nice for the grade, then you have done very well. You could also consider buying coins that in the future other collectors will like, which makes your collection more liquid.
My collection is US coins, non-gold. I am a set collector. Most of the sets are in Capital Holders. The Flying Eagle/Indian Head cent collection is primarily uncirculated with high AU coins with color. Mercury dimes are a nice XF range and the set presents itself quite well. Washington quarters were collected in BU when I was a kid. I have completed a nice F/VF set of Barber half dollars. I have circulated (F) Walking Liberty half dollars to 1935. BU for all half dollars since. The certified coins in the collection are Liberty Seated issues that I collect in principally XF/AU, Bust half dollars in XF/AU with eye appeal, and the late date Walking Liberty half dollars in UNC/Proof in superb gem grade or higher.
I would not put a higher grade in my sets for a common date. I like consistency. An alternative (that is applicable to Seated issues) is to put a rarer variety in a consistent collection grade for the common date.
A coin should reflect quality for the grade. The look of the coin always will trump the plastic grade or any sticker. My comments are not in any way an attempt to slam TPG... It is simply to state that coins at the same grade are simply not created equal. Plastic and stickers do not magically change a coin or whether the coin has right appeal. For those who are spending serious $$$$, you need to appreciate and understand the difference
Experience the World through Numismatics...it's more than you can imagine.
I'm not aspiring to upgrade any of the 150 prooflike business strikes in collection. Unfortunately, I don't believe there are too many unsearched, unopen coin rolls 1938 to 1955 left out there to search although I'm aware of one guy who has a few. Rolls upon rolls filled to the brim with PL coins to get picky with is likely everyone's fantasy, lol. They are what they are whenever encountered which is seldom. Like prooflike coins are gradeable, they're not! Prooflikeness, mirrors, invisible fields on a coin, this quality outweighs all others by 10, impossible to grade, likely reason PL was added to the grade. There's really nothing higher to aspire to.....other than early proof coins. No comparison to non PL coins that are graded the same.....if that makes any sense.
For EDS coins.....just where is there to go with those? Fewer marks, more luster or toning? I'll keep an eye out for them!
Leo
The more qualities observed in a coin, the more desirable that coin becomes!
I'm a type set guy. There's no way to do that in a consistent grade range that makes any sense to me. My 20th Century stuff tends to be in the MS66-68 range and my early federal stuff goes down to VG. In between it depends on the series. I usually try to spend roughly the same $$ for each coin in the collection. Obviously, there are plenty of exceptions to this.
Also, I often try to not go with the obvious choice...... for example, the set doesn't include a 38-D buffalo nickel, or a 75-S double-dime. The eventual goal is to have at least one coin for every mint. I'm only missing Charlotte.
I am attempting a matched set of Walkers, Vf-35. Same with Mercs. I do love an original uncirculated coin, but gently worn, problem-free silver is a great look. The early walkers are tough, I must say.
I am finding that more dealers than not do not know what I mean by a matched set. Is this no longer as popular a way to collect as it was when I was a kid over half a century ago?
@coinkat said:
A coin should reflect quality for the grade. The look of the coin always will trump the plastic grade or any sticker. My comments are not in any way an attempt to slam TPG... It is simply to state that coins at the same grade are simply not created equal. Plastic and stickers do not magically change a coin or whether the coin has right appeal. For those who are spending serious $$$$, you need to appreciate and understand the difference
Amen: I constantly tell newbies I encounter at shows that eye appeal means a lot. I see 64's that look nicer than some 65's
etc.
@BryceM said:
I usually try to spend roughly the same $$ for each coin in the collection. Obviously, there are plenty of exceptions to this.
That was my mindset early on, trying to spend around $300-$600 per coin. Allowed for 66+ in 20th century, and then decreasing with age. But then I started noticing trends where I could do AU58's for most coins in the last half of the 19th century. Just means that I might be towards the upper end of that $ range, and not settling for a VF or XF that may be closer to $300.
But as I get to the first half of the 19th century and earlier, the grade range widens (or goes out the window).
@Whit said:
I am attempting a matched set of Walkers, Vf-35. Same with Mercs. I do love an original uncirculated coin, but gently worn, problem-free silver is a great look. The early walkers are tough, I must say.
This was pretty much what I was asking in my OP: "When a certain coin or year is affordable outside your target grade, do you buy the higher grade, or stick to your target for consistency?"
So in your VF35 set, you're sticking to VF35, even for 1945, where a higher grade is still very affordable?
I'm working on a 7070 Type set in an album so my target grade is AU50 on average. Some coins are MS, some are VF... I think the running average so far is 53.
I'm also working on a Box of 20 that's miscellaneous Type not addressed in the album. That set, so far and I'm only halfway through, ranges from VG8 to MS63.
My last set/accumulation is Large Cents in everything from AG Details to AU/low MS...
Collecting: Dansco 7070; Middle Date Large Cents (VF-AU); Box of 20;
I'm working on a few type sets and I try to stay VF35 and above for late 18th century and early 19th century coins. This is my goal for the expensive coins, to try and have enough detail on the coin to appreciate it. I know I will have to settle for some lower grades on some of the rarer coins. As an example my 1793 Chain cent if only a F15. All other coins from late 19th century to present will hopefully be AU50-PR70. So really can't collect with a target grade in mind for all my pieces in my sets.
If I had to put a rule to it; I would say that I try and buy the grade just before the big jump in price for each coin.
I am trying to upgrade my WQ set to have an overall grade of MS-66. Right now it is 100% complete and an average grade of 65.84. I have a few coins missing and have substituted varieties instead. I don't have a regular 1939-S, just DDO in MS-64. I really like that coin but I need to replace it with a 66+ or 67. I will have to upgrade my 32-D from MS-62 to MS-64. If I can keep an average grade of MS-66, then I should be in the top 20, which is my main goal.
I also have a WQ variety set. I want to keep the overall grade of that set at MS-65. Right now I have an overall grade of 65.15. But all of the big DDO's will be difficult to get in higher grades. I do have a 1942-D DDO in AU-58, which is really hard to find. Great Collections has only sold 3 1942-D DDO's in AU-58 and none finer. They list an MS-65, but it is mis-cataloged as 42-D when it was a 42-P. I really don't think my budget will allow me to keep the set at MS-65, probably MS-64.
For one of my registry sets, my (new) goal is to get a top pop or 1 grade back from top pop. I'm around 90% of the way there, but it's a moving target. New top pops have been getting made every year.
FROM ROB9874: This was pretty much what I was asking in my OP: "When a certain coin or year is affordable outside your target grade, do you buy the higher grade, or stick to your target for consistency?" So in your VF35 set, you're sticking to VF35, even for 1945, where a higher grade is still very affordable?
Only with proofs, I'm a Proof 70 purist.
I have A LOT of Proof 70's, a lot.
I may have a small problem
With the rest of my coins I tend to make mini collections (I'm a very eclectic collector) and sets since my interests come and go, so the grades can vary greatly.
Coins are Neato!
"If it's a penny for your thoughts and you put in your two cents worth, then someone...somewhere...is making a penny." - Steven Wright
I'm doing something similar working on a variety of a 7070 type set. My goal is MS65 or higher for 1916-date, MS62-65 for the 1860-1916 era and AU for anything pre-1860. Obviously the more challenging series may force me to break this goal but on other series I can potentially buy something graded higher. It is always tough when collecting by type to decide on a single $1000+ purchase or several $200-500 purchases
@Smudge said:
I look at survival #’s in all grades. The lower the better.
That's a good point. I've noticed that for series that aren't frequently collected by date/mint (liberty gold, seated coinage, etc.) it is easy to find a slightly better or semi-key date for the same or slightly more as a common date.
for example, when it was time to buy a $20 saint, I opted for a 1913-D rather than a 1927 or 1928.
In the last two years I have started to assemble a set of Liberty $5 gold. I am only interested in tough dates. So far they have graded AU-50-55. Since these are expensive this will be a pretty limited size set. I only buy 1-2 coins a year and this involves selling my other collections.
@TennesseeDave said:
For my Trade $ set, the grades range from VF25-AU58. My target grade would be XF-45
I've got an even wider range than that, by design, with chopped T$s, 25-61, and will be buying a (non-chopped) Proof for my type set in 62-63 in the next few weeks.
Would love to see yours if you have a public registry or site somewhere!
I am all over the place…generally at 40 and above, but that’s not to say that there aren’t lower ones. When I am collecting a very expensive coin I will let the grade come down. Say an 1807 CBH Bearded Goddess, I am at VF20 CAC. I have several CBH at MS62 and better. They can be downright pricey and in some cases I have had to just let them go…..oh well.
Nope.
I like MS65++ shineys as much as the next guy, and I have personal minimum standards that have to be met (no graffiti for instance), but aside from that if I like the coin I'll buy it. Atm I'm type collecting so due to budget I'll settle for a VG or F sometimes. I kind of like variety anyway.
@TennesseeDave said:
For my Trade $ set, the grades range from VF25-AU58. My target grade would be XF-45
I've got an even wider range than that, by design, with chopped T$s, 25-61, and will be buying a (non-chopped) Proof for my type set in 62-63 in the next few weeks.
Would love to see yours if you have a public registry or site somewhere!
@TennesseeDave said:
For my Trade $ set, the grades range from VF25-AU58. My target grade would be XF-45
I've got an even wider range than that, by design, with chopped T$s, 25-61, and will be buying a (non-chopped) Proof for my type set in 62-63 in the next few weeks.
Would love to see yours if you have a public registry or site somewhere!
Yes, depends on the age group which dictates cost and availability. For colonials and early type I try to stay at VF or better, but I've gone as low as VG or details. Anything after the Civil War or so, AU or MS. 20th century 63 or better. 64 or better for common.
Comments
Lots of, "it depends" to answer this question. If competing for a top registry slot, then you go big or go home. If your goal is a top 10-25 set then the goals get adjusted respectively. If you are going for a certain look then that will often dictate your price point. I would vote to have a similar grade range for aesthetic purposes. For one particular series I am working on now, there is a point where the price of the coin starts going up exponentially for every point upgraded. If you can stay a point below where the curve increases dramatically and find coins nice for the grade, then you have done very well. You could also consider buying coins that in the future other collectors will like, which makes your collection more liquid.
Either way, have fun with your collection!
My collection is US coins, non-gold. I am a set collector. Most of the sets are in Capital Holders. The Flying Eagle/Indian Head cent collection is primarily uncirculated with high AU coins with color. Mercury dimes are a nice XF range and the set presents itself quite well. Washington quarters were collected in BU when I was a kid. I have completed a nice F/VF set of Barber half dollars. I have circulated (F) Walking Liberty half dollars to 1935. BU for all half dollars since. The certified coins in the collection are Liberty Seated issues that I collect in principally XF/AU, Bust half dollars in XF/AU with eye appeal, and the late date Walking Liberty half dollars in UNC/Proof in superb gem grade or higher.
I would not put a higher grade in my sets for a common date. I like consistency. An alternative (that is applicable to Seated issues) is to put a rarer variety in a consistent collection grade for the common date.
Since one of my collections is XF-AU 3-cent Silvers, it pretty much defines itself
ANA 50 year/Life Member (now "Emeritus")
Depends on the series.
Capped bust half dimes AU
Capped bust dimes VF
Draped and Capped bust quarters VF
Flowing hair halves F
Draped bust halves VF
Capped bust halves XF
More importantly the surfaces should be “original” unless it is a special die marriage or die state.
A: The year they spend more on their library than their coin collection.
A numismatist is judged more on the content of their library than the content of their cabinet.
For the MS certified series I collect:
Early Walkers: 63-64
Middle Date Walkers: 65-66
Late Date Walkers: 65-67
Morgans: 63-64
SLQs: 64-65
Seated Dollars: 61-63
Franklins: 65-66
Sometimes, it’s better to be LUCKY than good. 🍀 🍺👍
My Full Walker Registry Set (1916-1947):
https://www.ngccoin.com/registry/competitive-sets/16292/
A coin should reflect quality for the grade. The look of the coin always will trump the plastic grade or any sticker. My comments are not in any way an attempt to slam TPG... It is simply to state that coins at the same grade are simply not created equal. Plastic and stickers do not magically change a coin or whether the coin has right appeal. For those who are spending serious $$$$, you need to appreciate and understand the difference
Experience the World through Numismatics...it's more than you can imagine.
My bad...failed to answer the question as asked.
No
Experience the World through Numismatics...it's more than you can imagine.
I'm not aspiring to upgrade any of the 150 prooflike business strikes in collection. Unfortunately, I don't believe there are too many unsearched, unopen coin rolls 1938 to 1955 left out there to search although I'm aware of one guy who has a few. Rolls upon rolls filled to the brim with PL coins to get picky with is likely everyone's fantasy, lol. They are what they are whenever encountered which is seldom. Like prooflike coins are gradeable, they're not! Prooflikeness, mirrors, invisible fields on a coin, this quality outweighs all others by 10, impossible to grade, likely reason PL was added to the grade. There's really nothing higher to aspire to.....other than early proof coins. No comparison to non PL coins that are graded the same.....if that makes any sense.
For EDS coins.....just where is there to go with those? Fewer marks, more luster or toning? I'll keep an eye out for them!
Leo
The more qualities observed in a coin, the more desirable that coin becomes!
My Jefferson Nickel Collection
I'm a type set guy. There's no way to do that in a consistent grade range that makes any sense to me. My 20th Century stuff tends to be in the MS66-68 range and my early federal stuff goes down to VG. In between it depends on the series. I usually try to spend roughly the same $$ for each coin in the collection. Obviously, there are plenty of exceptions to this.
Also, I often try to not go with the obvious choice...... for example, the set doesn't include a 38-D buffalo nickel, or a 75-S double-dime. The eventual goal is to have at least one coin for every mint. I'm only missing Charlotte.
I am attempting a matched set of Walkers, Vf-35. Same with Mercs. I do love an original uncirculated coin, but gently worn, problem-free silver is a great look. The early walkers are tough, I must say.
I am finding that more dealers than not do not know what I mean by a matched set. Is this no longer as popular a way to collect as it was when I was a kid over half a century ago?
Whit
Amen: I constantly tell newbies I encounter at shows that eye appeal means a lot. I see 64's that look nicer than some 65's
etc.
I am working on a set in P45 CAC. I am 1/3 to 1/2 compete in that grade. Had a few P45 without CAC, P40, P50, and other outliers.
That was my mindset early on, trying to spend around $300-$600 per coin. Allowed for 66+ in 20th century, and then decreasing with age. But then I started noticing trends where I could do AU58's for most coins in the last half of the 19th century. Just means that I might be towards the upper end of that $ range, and not settling for a VF or XF that may be closer to $300.
But as I get to the first half of the 19th century and earlier, the grade range widens (or goes out the window).
This was pretty much what I was asking in my OP: "When a certain coin or year is affordable outside your target grade, do you buy the higher grade, or stick to your target for consistency?"
So in your VF35 set, you're sticking to VF35, even for 1945, where a higher grade is still very affordable?
I'm working on a 7070 Type set in an album so my target grade is AU50 on average. Some coins are MS, some are VF... I think the running average so far is 53.
I'm also working on a Box of 20 that's miscellaneous Type not addressed in the album. That set, so far and I'm only halfway through, ranges from VG8 to MS63.
My last set/accumulation is Large Cents in everything from AG Details to AU/low MS...
Successful BST transactions with: SilverEagles92; Ahrensdad; Smitty; GregHansen; Lablade; Mercury10c; copperflopper; whatsup; KISHU1; scrapman1077, crispy, canadanz, smallchange, robkool, Mission16, ranshdow, ibzman350, Fallguy, Collectorcoins, SurfinxHI, jwitten, Walkerguy21D, dsessom.
I'm working on a few type sets and I try to stay VF35 and above for late 18th century and early 19th century coins. This is my goal for the expensive coins, to try and have enough detail on the coin to appreciate it. I know I will have to settle for some lower grades on some of the rarer coins. As an example my 1793 Chain cent if only a F15. All other coins from late 19th century to present will hopefully be AU50-PR70. So really can't collect with a target grade in mind for all my pieces in my sets.
If I had to put a rule to it; I would say that I try and buy the grade just before the big jump in price for each coin.
Donato
Donato's Complete US Type Set ---- Donato's Dansco 7070 Modified Type Set ---- Donato's Basic U.S. Coin Design Set
Successful transactions: Shrub68 (Jim), MWallace (Mike)
I have put together a complete set of morganas by year. Outside of key dates, I try to be in the MS 63 or higher range.
Positive BST as a seller: Namvet69, Lordmarcovan, Bigjpst, Soldi, mustanggt, CoinHoader, moursund, SufinxHi, al410, JWP
I am trying to upgrade my WQ set to have an overall grade of MS-66. Right now it is 100% complete and an average grade of 65.84. I have a few coins missing and have substituted varieties instead. I don't have a regular 1939-S, just DDO in MS-64. I really like that coin but I need to replace it with a 66+ or 67. I will have to upgrade my 32-D from MS-62 to MS-64. If I can keep an average grade of MS-66, then I should be in the top 20, which is my main goal.
I also have a WQ variety set. I want to keep the overall grade of that set at MS-65. Right now I have an overall grade of 65.15. But all of the big DDO's will be difficult to get in higher grades. I do have a 1942-D DDO in AU-58, which is really hard to find. Great Collections has only sold 3 1942-D DDO's in AU-58 and none finer. They list an MS-65, but it is mis-cataloged as 42-D when it was a 42-P. I really don't think my budget will allow me to keep the set at MS-65, probably MS-64.
Here is my Washington Quarter Variety Registry Set
This is my Washington Quarter Proof Variety Registry Set
For one of my registry sets, my (new) goal is to get a top pop or 1 grade back from top pop. I'm around 90% of the way there, but it's a moving target. New top pops have been getting made every year.
https://www.pcgs.com/setregistry/alltimeset/134028
IG: DeCourcyCoinsEbay: neilrobertson
"Numismatic categorizations, if left unconstrained, will increase spontaneously over time." -me
FROM ROB9874: This was pretty much what I was asking in my OP: "When a certain coin or year is affordable outside your target grade, do you buy the higher grade, or stick to your target for consistency?" So in your VF35 set, you're sticking to VF35, even for 1945, where a higher grade is still very affordable?
Yes. The matched look is that important.
Only with proofs, I'm a Proof 70 purist.
I have A LOT of Proof 70's, a lot.
I may have a small problem
With the rest of my coins I tend to make mini collections (I'm a very eclectic collector) and sets since my interests come and go, so the grades can vary greatly.
Coins are Neato!
"If it's a penny for your thoughts and you put in your two cents worth, then someone...somewhere...is making a penny." - Steven Wright
For my Trade $ set, the grades range from VF25-AU58. My target grade would be XF-45
I'm doing something similar working on a variety of a 7070 type set. My goal is MS65 or higher for 1916-date, MS62-65 for the 1860-1916 era and AU for anything pre-1860. Obviously the more challenging series may force me to break this goal but on other series I can potentially buy something graded higher. It is always tough when collecting by type to decide on a single $1000+ purchase or several $200-500 purchases
I look at survival #’s in all grades. The lower the better.
Also: the lower the more expensive.
That's a good point. I've noticed that for series that aren't frequently collected by date/mint (liberty gold, seated coinage, etc.) it is easy to find a slightly better or semi-key date for the same or slightly more as a common date.
for example, when it was time to buy a $20 saint, I opted for a 1913-D rather than a 1927 or 1928.
In the last two years I have started to assemble a set of Liberty $5 gold. I am only interested in tough dates. So far they have graded AU-50-55. Since these are expensive this will be a pretty limited size set. I only buy 1-2 coins a year and this involves selling my other collections.
I have a count of 3 for now!
I've got an even wider range than that, by design, with chopped T$s, 25-61, and will be buying a (non-chopped) Proof for my type set in 62-63 in the next few weeks.
Would love to see yours if you have a public registry or site somewhere!
Not necessarily, check the 1846 small date half eagle.
I am all over the place…generally at 40 and above, but that’s not to say that there aren’t lower ones. When I am collecting a very expensive coin I will let the grade come down. Say an 1807 CBH Bearded Goddess, I am at VF20 CAC. I have several CBH at MS62 and better. They can be downright pricey and in some cases I have had to just let them go…..oh well.
Nope.
I like MS65++ shineys as much as the next guy, and I have personal minimum standards that have to be met (no graffiti for instance), but aside from that if I like the coin I'll buy it. Atm I'm type collecting so due to budget I'll settle for a VG or F sometimes. I kind of like variety anyway.
https://pcgs.com/setregistry/mysetregistry/showcase/1592
Wow, great 78-CC! Lot of nice selections but love the color on all 3 76s. Really nice collection!!!
My target is PO01
Lafayette Grading Set
Yes, depends on the age group which dictates cost and availability. For colonials and early type I try to stay at VF or better, but I've gone as low as VG or details. Anything after the Civil War or so, AU or MS. 20th century 63 or better. 64 or better for common.