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I’ll never understand this price discrepancy

tradedollarnuttradedollarnut Posts: 20,162 ✭✭✭✭✭
in U.S. Coin Forum

$20,000
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$250,000

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Early Dollar Set
«1

Comments

  • LiquidatedLiquidated Posts: 312 ✭✭✭✭
    edited January 3, 2022 11:48AM

    Deleted

  • BroadstruckBroadstruck Posts: 30,497 ✭✭✭✭✭

    The books on this series hammer in the the importance of the head needing to be full on collectors of such. I was just glancing at photos on a old hard drive and saw a 1926-S with a 85% virtual full head I sold as it wasn't really full. Now kicking myself as in the decade or more that has passed I never found a better example.

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  • pcgscacgoldpcgscacgold Posts: 2,943 ✭✭✭✭✭

    The shield on the bottom one is more detailed as well.

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  • BroadstruckBroadstruck Posts: 30,497 ✭✭✭✭✭

    FWIW they could have done Trade Dollars with FH designations too.

    To Err Is Human.... To Collect Err's Is Just Too Much Darn Tootin Fun!
  • ElcontadorElcontador Posts: 7,579 ✭✭✭✭✭
    • Pic on bottom coin 1 stop overexposed
    • Spot to view's rt of shield on top coin below 'T'
    • Most important, top coin not quite a FH, bottom coin an ultimate FH
    • Bottom coin fully struck
    • Minor dip rise or toning spots on reverse @ 4:00 on bottom coin

    Someone with unlimited funds probably wanted the nicest coin of the date.

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  • LiquidatedLiquidated Posts: 312 ✭✭✭✭
    edited January 3, 2022 11:42AM

    Deleted

  • pmh1nicpmh1nic Posts: 3,295 ✭✭✭✭✭

    For some folks money isn’t an obstacle and how they spend it will never make sense to the others where it is.

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  • TurtleCatTurtleCat Posts: 4,628 ✭✭✭✭✭

    It all depends upon your wallet. If my wallet could easily afford both I would always get the bottom one as it is technically a better coin. If I couldn’t afford both easily then it’s moot and I would either go with the top or neither.

    I haven’t researched the series or the date but I suppose the price differential has always been there and is exaggerated by registry competition.

  • CatbertCatbert Posts: 7,378 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @TurtleCat said:
    It all depends upon your wallet. If my wallet could easily afford both I would always get the bottom one as it is technically a better coin. If I couldn’t afford both easily then it’s moot and I would either go with the top or neither.

    I haven’t researched the series or the date but I suppose the price differential has always been there and is exaggerated by registry competition.

    Last scenario unrealistic since if you could afford 250K, I’m confident you could afford an additional 20K. :)

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  • DNADaveDNADave Posts: 7,282 ✭✭✭✭✭

    230 K for a little extra metal flow. If you have that kind of cash it can be spent on worse things I suppose.

  • AUandAGAUandAG Posts: 24,807 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Uh, you don't see that the cheaper one has a better strike? That's why it's cheaper for sure.

    bob ;)

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  • JimWJimW Posts: 564 ✭✭✭✭

    Maybe it is just the pics, but the top coin seems to have a stronger reverse strike. Will agree the head looks struck better on the bottom coin.

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  • moursundmoursund Posts: 3,207 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @Catbert said:

    @TurtleCat said:
    It all depends upon your wallet. If my wallet could easily afford both I would always get the bottom one as it is technically a better coin. If I couldn’t afford both easily then it’s moot and I would either go with the top or neither.

    I haven’t researched the series or the date but I suppose the price differential has always been there and is exaggerated by registry competition.

    Last scenario unrealistic since if you could afford 250K, I’m confident you could afford an additional 20K. :)

    Maybe he means if his wallet could afford the storage space for both coins. He is probably thinking of carrying them to feed parking meters...

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  • WeissWeiss Posts: 9,942 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Isn't that a pretty big ding center of the forward wing on the lower coin? For that reason alone I'd rather have the coin up top.

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  • stockdude_stockdude_ Posts: 487 ✭✭✭

    Top coin much better. Overall strike better ( except head slightly weaker) Reverse MUCH better.

  • The_Dinosaur_ManThe_Dinosaur_Man Posts: 998 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Beauty is in the eye of the beholder with the bigger wallet. I think the top coin is the better of the two, and it appears the second coin has a scratch on the eagle's wing that would knock its grade down by a full point. Commercialization and matching the sale to the right buyer plays a role in extreme prices too.

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  • goldengolden Posts: 9,856 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Agree! Buy the cheaper coin and use the difference to buy a very nice 1792 Half Disme.

  • CoinscratchCoinscratch Posts: 9,016 ✭✭✭✭✭

    That’s a real Head scratcher.
    Buy both of them if you haven’t already and have them encapsulated together.

  • hummingbird_coinshummingbird_coins Posts: 1,228 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @Weiss said:
    Isn't that a pretty big ding center of the forward wing on the lower coin? For that reason alone I'd rather have the coin up top.

    From the pictures, what I think you are referring to seems to be a die line.

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  • ZoinsZoins Posts: 34,376 ✭✭✭✭✭

    The head looks much better on the bottom coin. Difference between a fully struck piece and not.

    Private Mint News | 2010 Lincoln Reverse Finalists
  • breakdownbreakdown Posts: 2,204 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I don't like strike designations and therefore decided 15 years ago to collect Walkers and Buffalos but not SLQs or Mercury Dimes.

    "Look up, old boy, and see what you get." -William Bonney.

  • jedmjedm Posts: 3,080 ✭✭✭✭✭

    The bottom coin is totally hammered! Notice the date, rivets, and head of course on the obverse; the reverse strike is superb and shows in the lettering. Hmmm but a difference factor of 12.5 is tremendous.

  • koynekwestkoynekwest Posts: 10,048 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited September 30, 2021 9:17PM

    A simple "full strike" designation makes more sense to me than only paying attention to one small design detail.
    Unfortunately true full strikes just don't exist for many US coins.

  • JBNJBN Posts: 1,876 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @breakdown said:
    I don't like strike designations and therefore decided 15 years ago to collect Walkers and Buffalos but not SLQs or Mercury Dimes.

    Imagine collecting by full hand examples. Population would be zero for full hand 40-S & 44-S.

  • ms70ms70 Posts: 13,956 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Aside from the head #1 is much better struck and doesn't have the hits on the reverse, most notably on the eagle's wing on #2. I'd rather have #1.

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  • ElcontadorElcontador Posts: 7,579 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @Liquidated said:
    Slightly OT but SLQ’s were always my favorite. Always wanted to see an absolute full strike with perfect details on the head, shield, and drapery above knee. Never seen an absolute perfectly struck SLQ

    The best struck of the series is the 1917 P Type I. If you can afford an MS 65 FH, the coin should be fully struck.

    "Vou invadir o Nordeste,
    "Seu cabra da peste,
    "Sou Mangueira......."
  • rickoricko Posts: 98,724 ✭✭✭✭✭

    When looking at strike detail, number two for the obverse and one for the reverse...Price differential is a mystery without further information. Cheers, RickO

  • TurtleCatTurtleCat Posts: 4,628 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @Catbert said:

    @TurtleCat said:
    It all depends upon your wallet. If my wallet could easily afford both I would always get the bottom one as it is technically a better coin. If I couldn’t afford both easily then it’s moot and I would either go with the top or neither.

    I haven’t researched the series or the date but I suppose the price differential has always been there and is exaggerated by registry competition.

    Last scenario unrealistic since if you could afford 250K, I’m confident you could afford an additional 20K. :)

    More of “if I could only have one” scenario.

  • LiquidatedLiquidated Posts: 312 ✭✭✭✭
    edited January 3, 2022 11:29AM

    Deleted

  • SmEagle1795SmEagle1795 Posts: 2,181 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I'll take door #1.

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  • breakdownbreakdown Posts: 2,204 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @JBN said:

    @breakdown said:
    I don't like strike designations and therefore decided 15 years ago to collect Walkers and Buffalos but not SLQs or Mercury Dimes.

    Imagine collecting by full hand examples. Population would be zero for full hand 40-S & 44-S.

    Agree. For buffalos, they could have full braid for the obverse or full hide for the reverse. No thanks.

    "Look up, old boy, and see what you get." -William Bonney.

  • MonsterCoinzMonsterCoinz Posts: 1,518 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Splitting hairs for that designation... i'll take the top one and a $50 pan-pac over the bottom.

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  • LakesammmanLakesammman Posts: 17,426 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Show us the labels and the registry points difference .....

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  • tradedollarnuttradedollarnut Posts: 20,162 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @Lakesammman said:
    Show us the labels and the registry points difference .....

    Both are MS67….one is FH

    Early Dollar Set
  • scubafuelscubafuel Posts: 1,901 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I think this is what comes of having a “mature” market. There’s a lot of money out there but most US coin series are quite common even at the top end. So if you want the best, semi arbitrary sub- designations are needed.

  • ReadyFireAimReadyFireAim Posts: 1,828 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I like the face on the top coin better.
    On saints, I go for the nicer looking face also even though the coin might have a lower grade.

    My Saint Set

  • 1Mike11Mike1 Posts: 4,416 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Bottom one has more detail. $230,000 worth of detail? They are both nice regardless.

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  • DCWDCW Posts: 7,480 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I would certainly be content with the 1st coin at that kind of discount. The difference is just too subtle to justify that big of a premium. But, hey people do what they want with their money

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  • ZoinsZoins Posts: 34,376 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited October 1, 2021 7:36AM

    The price discrepancy is simply that two people with significant budgets want top pop with full heads.

    PCGS lists the pops as:

    • Non-FH MS67: POP 1083/1/0
    • FH MS67: POP 123/2/0

    While Non-FH and FH have different pops in the PCGS POP report, I tend to merge them and would consider them as:

    • Non-FH MS67: POP 1206/1/2
    • FH MS76: POP 1207/2/0

    I can understand it at some level. I want to pick up a particular Civil War Token where the nose is not well struck on many pieces. I refuse to buy one where the nose is not well struck, even if it's otherwise a high grade. The coin just isn't enjoyable that way to me.

    10x price is a lot, but everyone's financial condition is different.

    Private Mint News | 2010 Lincoln Reverse Finalists
  • coinkatcoinkat Posts: 23,483 ✭✭✭✭✭

    It is more of an indictment as to how silly the FH designation is for this series... it takes up such a small portion of the design and yet coins are valued to ridiculous levels for a striking characteristic that is less important than the Shield.

    A Full Shield designation would be far more appropriate as a standard and even a measurement as the strike and even preservation concerns.

    But changing a grading standard to make it more responsive to describing the actual preservation of the coin is not likely going to happen anytime soon.

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