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Help researching a new coin series to start collecting

erwindocerwindoc Posts: 5,202 ✭✭✭✭✭

I need a bit of a change of plans with coin collecting and perhaps researching a new set prior to collecting is what I need.

What's a coin series that is not too long to complete, not too financially difficult to complete (IE-affordable keys/no stopper dates), looks good in mid-grade circulated ranges (if needed due to budget constraints), and will give the collector enjoyment during the process.

Cannot be modern(post-1965). Would consider non-US coins too.

Thanks in advance for the suggestions!

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Comments

  • FloridafacelifterFloridafacelifter Posts: 1,312 ✭✭✭✭✭

    SLQ’s

  • erwindocerwindoc Posts: 5,202 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @Floridafacelifter said:
    SLQ’s

    1916 is a pretty tough coin!

  • PerryHallPerryHall Posts: 46,513 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @erwindoc said:

    @Floridafacelifter said:
    SLQ’s

    1916 is a pretty tough coin!

    So is the 1918-7-S which is considered an integral part of the series.

    Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
    "Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
    "Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire

  • erwindocerwindoc Posts: 5,202 ✭✭✭✭✭

    SLQs are a good series though, great suggestion.

  • FloridafacelifterFloridafacelifter Posts: 1,312 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Haha there are a couple of tough ones but it meets most of the criteria, and it’s a super cool series with lots of history, beauty, and symbolism- one of my favorite U.S. coin designs of all time.

  • OAKSTAROAKSTAR Posts: 7,854 ✭✭✭✭✭

    What sets do you already have?

  • labloverlablover Posts: 3,670 ✭✭✭✭✭

    You could always build a Short Set in a series. I'm starting a 1940 - 1945 Short Set in Mercury Dimes.

    "If there are no dogs in Heaven, then when I die I want to go where they went." Will Rogers
  • erwindocerwindoc Posts: 5,202 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @ricko said:
    @erwindoc.... That is a tough set of guidelines. You might try Franklin Half Dollars for a short project, most are reasonably priced. Cheers, RickO

    I have done that series a couple of times. It is rewarding and fun but time to move on to another set.

  • johnny010johnny010 Posts: 1,784 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Proof 3 cent seems to be doable and nice eye appeal.

  • erwindocerwindoc Posts: 5,202 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @lablover said:
    You could always build a Short Set in a series. I'm starting a 1940 - 1945 Short Set in Mercury Dimes.

    I already have one started and mostly full. Great suggestion too!

  • erwindocerwindoc Posts: 5,202 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @johnny010 said:
    Proof 3 cent seems to be doable and nice eye appeal.

    You mean copper-nickel proof 3C? Silver set is short but has some 5 figure stoppers!

  • coinbufcoinbuf Posts: 11,635 ✭✭✭✭✭

    G$2.5 Indians, fun short set with only the one key date. I also like the Trimes, neat design not a long series with only a few tough dates.

    My Lincoln Registry
    My Collection of Old Holders

    Never a slave to one plastic brand will I ever be.
  • RLSnapperRLSnapper Posts: 582 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I have always considered proof 3CN. They are beautiful...pretty easily located..but still a challenge. The are only 3 dates that would run over $1000...1865, 1877 and 1878..with the 1877 being the key and the only date that will run 2K. The rest are under $500. Would make quite a presentation when done.

  • rheddenrhedden Posts: 6,630 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Look at 2-cent and 3-cent series. Half dimes are a good option, too, unless you want larger coins.

    In the non-US category, how about non-US coins that circulated in the US Colonies? British farthings, halfpennies, and pennies from the 1700s ("King George coppers") circulated widely on the East Coast and are frequently found by metal detectorists. So did "Spanish silver" coins (1 Reale through 8 Reales) from Mexico, Bolivia, Guatemala, Peru, etc. These coins with 1700s dates have a lot of appeal, and despite being used as US currency for more than a century, they are inexpensive in circulated grades and are collected by only a few people. They are dug out of the ground in New England and other east coast areas all the time, so they fit into a US colonial coins/currency collection, IMHO.

  • lkeneficlkenefic Posts: 8,179 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited July 1, 2023 9:20AM

    It depends on your definition of "stopper"... is it a $500 coin? $1000?? If you don't already have Indian Head Cents, it could be an option... the 1877 is a tough coin to find nice, and could be a "stopper" for a lot of folks in VF condition. Other difficult coins in the series... 1872, 1871, and 1869... the 1909-S is of lower mintage, but were often saved (last year of the series) and not too difficult to find nice.

    A series I've worked on and completed a few times... again copper... are the Late Date Large Cents in VF-AU. The only key date is the 1857, last date of the series, and pretty easy to find nice. I like this series because after you finish the date run, you can go back for Redbook varieties.

    Silver is a bit more problematic... Washington Quarters are doable if you just do a date/MM set. The 1932D and S coins are still going to be less than $200 in mid grade condition. Franklin Halves also spring to mind... I dont think there are any "stoppers" in the run.

    Hope this helps... Enjoy!!!

    Edited to add! I completely forgot about Jefferson Nickels... if you're just doing a Date/MM set it's not a whole lot of money at all and you could probably get most from circulation...

    Collecting: Dansco 7070; Middle Date Large Cents (VF-AU); Box of 20;

    Successful BST transactions with: SilverEagles92; Ahrensdad; Smitty; GregHansen; Lablade; Mercury10c; copperflopper; whatsup; KISHU1; scrapman1077, crispy, canadanz, smallchange, robkool, Mission16, ranshdow, ibzman350, Fallguy, Collectorcoins, SurfinxHI, jwitten, Walkerguy21D, dsessom.
  • The_Dinosaur_ManThe_Dinosaur_Man Posts: 999 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Small Cents, 1857 to Date in Proof would be a fun set. I can vouch for half dimes being fun since I collect those alongside Seated Dimes. You could also pursue a 19th century type set if you haven't already.

    Custom album maker and numismatic photographer.
    Need a personalized album made? Design it on the website below and I'll build it for you.
    https://www.donahuenumismatics.com/.

  • pursuitoflibertypursuitofliberty Posts: 7,135 ✭✭✭✭✭

    For the Mercuries, I think the better challenge is the longer short set ('34 to '45), which is a good one IMO.

    I think the Walker longer short set is also a worthwhile endeavor ('33 or '34 to '47, your choice of starting points).

    SLQ's (mentioned) are great but a lot of really tough coins ... other than the 16 and 18/7, you also had to contend with the 19 MM's, 20-D, 23-S and the 27-S.


    “We are only their care-takers,” he posed, “if we take good care of them, then centuries from now they may still be here … ”

    Todd - BHNC #242
  • oldabeintxoldabeintx Posts: 2,238 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I'm a type coin guy, after collecting and selling a number of series over the years. Although collecting type may seem limiting, I've had a lot of fun collecting many different "type" sets. Consider year sets, sets of coins by era, such as the Civil War, colonial types, many types of foreign coins that circulated here, foreign monarchs, ancients by area or ruler, specific mints such as CC. Lots of research to define your own sets.

  • Dave99BDave99B Posts: 8,631 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Flying Eagle cents? Or is that too short? :D

    Dave

    Always looking for original, better date VF20-VF35 Barber quarters and halves, and a quality beer.
  • JRGeyerJRGeyer Posts: 146 ✭✭✭

    Seated half dimes. What you consider too long and too expensive to collect is up to you, but there are no true stopper dates.

  • BillJonesBillJones Posts: 34,444 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @Floridafacelifter said:
    SLQ’s

    I don’t think do. The design is attractive in Mint State and AU, but I have never thought that it wore well. You also have the 1916 and the ‘18-S over 7 which are both very pricey.

    You might consider a piece of a set. I collected the the Civil War era Indian cents. The toughest variety is the 1864-L cent. The rest are not that difficult. After you are done, you might continue. The heart of the collection are the dates from 1866 to 1878. Beyond that, there are many common dates.

    Retired dealer and avid collector of U.S. type coins, 19th century presidential campaign medalets and selected medals. In recent years I have been working on a set of British coins - at least one coin from each king or queen who issued pieces that are collectible. I am also collecting at least one coin for each Roman emperor from Julius Caesar to ... ?
  • TomBTomB Posts: 21,765 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Without knowing the parameters of "too long" or "too expensive" I would suggest Barber half dollars.

    Thomas Bush Numismatics & Numismatic Photography

    In honor of the memory of Cpl. Michael E. Thompson

    image
  • lkeneficlkenefic Posts: 8,179 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @JRGeyer said:
    Seated half dimes. What you consider too long and too expensive to collect is up to you, but there are no true stopper dates.

    I guess "stopper" is in the eye of the beholder, but: 1846 is going to be "tough" in any grade (at least not damaged), and 1853-O (No Arrows, if you want to include the variety), and to a lesser extent... 1865, '66, and '67 are likely the better part of $1000 each in VF or better... but like you and @TomB said... "too long and too expensive" is a relative term!

    Collecting: Dansco 7070; Middle Date Large Cents (VF-AU); Box of 20;

    Successful BST transactions with: SilverEagles92; Ahrensdad; Smitty; GregHansen; Lablade; Mercury10c; copperflopper; whatsup; KISHU1; scrapman1077, crispy, canadanz, smallchange, robkool, Mission16, ranshdow, ibzman350, Fallguy, Collectorcoins, SurfinxHI, jwitten, Walkerguy21D, dsessom.
  • CladiatorCladiator Posts: 18,108 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Capped Bust Half Dimes

  • shishshish Posts: 1,169 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Trade dollars would make a great set, only 18 coins required.

    Liberty Seated and Trade Dollar Specialist
  • WalkerfanWalkerfan Posts: 9,553 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Peace Dollars and Franklins.

    As previously noted SLQs are TOUGH, especially, in mint state.

    Sometimes, it’s better to be LUCKY than good. 🍀 🍺👍

    My Full Walker Registry Set (1916-1947):

    https://www.ngccoin.com/registry/competitive-sets/16292/

  • WCCWCC Posts: 2,687 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Not enough parameters provided in the OP, including what they collect now or previously.

    Without specifics, I'd say the Peace dollar and Franklin half from US coinage. Franklin half has no key dates and is financially attainable for any moderate budget US based collector. Peace dollar has the 1921 and a few others which are somewhat higher priced but not that many coins.

    Partial sets are another option as previously suggested.

    Other series are financially attainable to many, but more often in (average to lower) circulated grades.

    In world or ancient coinage, I'd start with the 19th and 20th century Krause manuals to get an idea of what's available and potential relative (not actual) prices. That's what I did when I resumed collecting in 1998. Just be aware that this source doesn't give much if any indication of how much the coins actually cost or the availability, especially if the buyer will only accept quality typically preferred by members of this forum.

  • alaura22alaura22 Posts: 3,410 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Dare I suggest a Everyman 19th or 20th Type set either the regular set, up to grade 58+ OR the Mint set, up to grade 64
    These are great sets, you won't get bored because every coin is different. No coin stoppers either, and you won't go broke, you add the coins that you can afford.
    There also have a with gold version if you like to add that one
    Looking forward to the competition :)

  • Project NumismaticsProject Numismatics Posts: 1,611 ✭✭✭✭✭

    No stoppers and look good in mid-grades:

    Peace dollars and barber halves

  • alefzeroalefzero Posts: 1,012 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Peace dollars. Short. Highly available in nearly any collectible grades. Only one difficult coin, 1934-S. But not really a classic stopper, and one could seek out a superb AU58 that could match quality with an MS64 set. Many ways to collect them: superb strikes, toning (very difficult), interesting varieties, ...

    And can augment it with Daniel Carr Peace dollar issues if you want to expand the set.

  • WCCWCC Posts: 2,687 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited July 2, 2023 5:43AM

    @pursuitofliberty said:

    SLQ's (mentioned) are great but a lot of really tough coins ... other than the 16 and 18/7, you also had to contend with the 19 MM's, 20-D, 23-S and the 27-S.

    This isn't a tough set to complete, except when narrow parameters are applied. It's only expensive. Collector's Corner has five or six (some FH) of the 1916 SLQ in MS-65 and MS-66 listed right now.

    The same applies to all the most widely collected US series. Without looking (and I have looked in the past) the only 20th century circulation strike US coins I wouldn't expect to find for sale right now "nice" or "high quality" are a few Indian Head eagles and Saints. For Barber coinage, maybe a few coins like the 95-O dime. 96-S, 01-S and 13-S quarter aren't hard to buy in MS. Seem harder to buy in average circulated grades. Most key dates during this period are available in multiple, all the time.

  • LJenkins11LJenkins11 Posts: 802 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Not knowing your budget limit I would suggest Peace Dollars. The basic set is short and can be completed without major rarities. If you chose to pursue nice AU examples it's far cheaper than going after MS64's and at MS65 some of them become really pricey. Good luck in your endeavor, keep us posted!

  • MWallaceMWallace Posts: 4,251 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Do a set of "same date", "same denomination", "different design".
    Examples: 1909 Indian & Lincoln; 1938 Buff & Jeff; 1921 Morgan & Peace; 1857 Large Cent & Flying Eagle; 1916 Barber & Mercury, etc.

  • TrampTramp Posts: 716 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @Dave99B said:
    Flying Eagle cents? Or is that too short? :D

    Dave

    ^^^^^
    My suggestion!

    USAF (Ret.) 1985 - 2005. E-4B Aircraft Maintenance Crew Chief and Contracting Officer.
    My current Registry sets:
    ✓ Everyman Mint State Carson City Morgan Dollars (1878 – 1893)
    ✓ Everyman Mint State Lincoln Cents (1909 – 1958)
    ✓ Morgan Dollar GSA Hoard (1878 – 1891)

  • stockdude_stockdude_ Posts: 487 ✭✭✭

    War nickles

  • lunagatelylunagately Posts: 46 ✭✭✭

    Irish Gunmoney, The Six Pence and Shilling Set or The Half Crown and Crown Set. 1689 to 1690 AND goes by month. Also on the Roman Calendar. Most of these coins have enviormental damage as they are found buried in the ground so don't go for straight graded coins. There are plenty around if you stick to details grade or ungraded.

  • JoeLewisJoeLewis Posts: 1,910 ✭✭✭✭
    edited July 1, 2023 8:00PM

    Buffalo nickels in VG-F and as uncleaned condition as possible makes a very handsome set.

    *edited to add that you’d need to do the regular set with no varieties.

  • RayboRaybo Posts: 5,331 ✭✭✭✭✭

  • SmudgeSmudge Posts: 9,637 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Could do something simple like a gold dollar of each type, or 1 per mint of whatever you choose.

  • NysotoNysoto Posts: 3,818 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Draped bust heraldic eagle half dollars 1801-1807 in F12-15, or VF30ish. Six coins makes a great basic set, add two more 1805/4 and 1806/5 for overdates.

    Robert Scot: Engraving Liberty - biography of US Mint's first chief engraver
  • BikergeekBikergeek Posts: 504 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I'll echo @Cladiator with Capped Bust Half Dimes. You can do a nice-looking one-per-year set (nine coins, 1829 - 1837). Or a major variety set, which has 14 coins. All of these can be had in attractive XF to low AU for very reasonable outlays. Then if you catch the bug... ahem.... you can go for the set by die marriage, or the BIG set which includes all remarriages too (that's currently 123 coins but will be 125 shortly after some new research is disseminated).

    Or, add a century or so and go for the Mercury dimes in Proof; 1936 is the toughie but a good one can still be had for $1k ish, less if you find a PR64 or 63; only 7 coins there since it stopped after 1942.

    Capped Bust Half Dime registry set: Bikergeek CBHD LM Set

  • SanctionIISanctionII Posts: 12,375 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Raw Cameo proof and SMS coinage from 1950-1970 (or for a bigger challenge include 1936-1942 proofs).

    A challenging way to collect some gorgeous coins at relatively low cost (some dates cost only a few dollars). Some are exceedingly hard to find in the wild (I have looked for raw Cameo 1957 proof nickels for 25 years. I found 1 ten or so years ago that did not receive the designation when submitted last year due to the coin being toned). Frustrating, but last month I found two of these raw coins, untoned that IMO warrant the designation.

    I collect this way and have had lots of fun doing so.

  • SimonWSimonW Posts: 1,058 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Peace Dollars
    Franklin Dollars

    If you want to go foreign I’d consider Mexico Pillar coinage, 1/2, 1 and 2 reales is quite doable from 1732-1771. There is a toughie in each, the 1732, but they aren’t impossible.

    I'm BACK!!! Used to be Billet7 on the old forum.

  • erwindocerwindoc Posts: 5,202 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Some EXCELLENT suggestions in here! Any others???

    Leaning toward large cents and/or capped half dimes as I have done neither of these sets before. Proof Mercury dimes are very nice and have given them thoughts in the past. Im currently working on Peace dollars. Ive made my Franklin album and still have it. Might have to do another set of Barber halves. My first set was just problem free VG and still have it but it is rather long compared to what I was looking for, but it does meet every other criteria and in better grades, it is a very nice looking series!

  • CoinscratchCoinscratch Posts: 9,128 ✭✭✭✭✭

    If you like piña coladas and getting caught in the rain :D

  • WCCWCC Posts: 2,687 ✭✭✭✭✭

    If completion isn't that important, there is always capped bust halves. Leave out the 1815 and 1807 if too expensive. Also, the 1836 and 1839-O if including the later design.

  • HillbillyCollectorHillbillyCollector Posts: 653 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @WCC said:
    If completion isn't that important, there is always capped bust halves. Leave out the 1815 and 1807 if too expensive. Also, the 1836 and 1839-O if including the later design.

    Excellent choice! If I wasn’t strictly into gold, this would be my second choice!👍

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