Brevity does not equate to a lack of decorum.
If someone says something is “obviously” something you should not take offense. Either their concept of “obvious” is wrong or you have more to learn. Potentially both. If you claim to know nothing about something don’t be offended when characteristics are obvious to others who are educated.
If you’re going to take a shotgun approach, you have to live with the results. My early collection proves that out. Some of it’s really nice, some of it’s junk.
Own every purchase you make. The party with the most knowledge gets the deal. If it’s not you, your best hope is a fair transaction (which there’s nothing wrong with).
No one here owes you anything. You put yourself out there with a question, you be happy with the answers. If you’ll pay attention to the responses you’ll learn about coins and how relationships in the coin world work. You might not like it but you’re not making the rules.
@TomB said:
So, you paid $10.94 for an obviously circulated, common date Buffalo nickel that was listed as "high grade", which an AU is for this series. I might be wrong, but it seems to me that you are following the same path that you followed in the last two user name accounts you had on these boards.
At some point you have to take it upon yourself and either learn what you are doing or simply stop doing it. It's that simple.
You say “obviously circulated” as if I’m knowledgeable in buffalo nickels. Dude, you seem like a jerk, based on your many comments on my posts and I’m getting tired of it. People like you are why nobody wants to learn about coins, and is actually the reason I stopped posting on these boards for a long time. Do me a favor and either, stop talking down on me, and help me respectfully or, I can just block you and I can just as easily get help from the people who are actually kind. I’m a learning collector, and as I’m asking questions, I’m learning. That’s why I’m posting. Being a complete jerk to me, a novice collector, isn’t helping.
>
Normally I steer clear of these, mostly because I don't have the energy, and I can be a bit of an a**.
There is an old adage that may be apt for you to consider;
How do you make a million dollars in Numismatics? Start with two million.
You come and post thinking you scored, or wanting to know if you scored, or trying to find a score. Without the knowledge, you are not the shark, you are the bait. Chum.
I know what it feels like to be that excited. I remember it. Many of us do. But you will do well to slow down, listen more, and try to learn. Look at a lot of coins, in hand, and try to understand what you are seeing in luster and surface quality. Get a grading guide and maybe a few other books and use the internet, and try and learn how to grade and understand surfaces. Ask questions about that type of thing and people here are almost sure to help.
One of my newer friends has a thing he does which I like (and remember others doing from days past). You hand him the slab upside down ... he thumbs the grade so he can't see it, and examines the coin. He tells you his thoughts on the grade, surfaces, color and other aspects before looking ... and for the coins he collects, most consider him world-class. That kind of knowledge and skill takes time, but pays dividends in spades.
The best advice I was every given a few years after I started was to collect what I liked and could afford, and try to make the best purchases I could with the knowledge I gained. At that point, my collection was somewhat of a hodge-podge, and I was always chasing after what I thought were deals ... although most of what I had was not really a deal. That was 33 years ago.
If you can learn to see the value in the coins you love, in the grades you understand and within the budget you can afford, Numismatics will become MUCH more enjoyable, and you won't need to ask ... you'll know when a deal shows up. And over time, I would image you will be rewarded in many ways.
As far as your Buffalo goes, if you knew how to grade you would know it's a AU55 at best. Most books and primers will tell you where to look for the high-point wear. It may be a little lack-luster, but that is difficult from almost ANY image. So possibly a low-end 55, or maybe high-end ... or maybe even a (gasp!) 53. My take is, if you bid and won, complete your deal, and only return if it was not as presented and you can't justify keeping it for your collection. You are COLLECTING, right?
You're already coming off as a petulant adolescent ... and it appears this isn't your first run at it. Sometimes the problem is indeed the man in the mirror.
Also, my friend @TomB is hardly a jerk ... in fact a few he is one of a few that does really try to help. But you need to learn to listen too.
Read this post and then read it again. You have an amazing opportunity to learn from well RESPECTED and extremely knowledgeable numismatic experts. When I was a YN in the 70s, I would have killed to have access to a fraction of the info you've received. Don't blow this opportunity
Sorry but I'm falling into the grouchy old " get off my lawn guy" but trying to be helpful (?). Knock off the whining about respect (I think your going that way but still feel compelled to add my 2 cent piece) In the real world, Respect and credibilityi are earned. Sorry if that upsets you but that's how things work. Demanding respect is quickest way to lose it.
Building respect and credibility takes time. As you grow and learn, it will become apparent to others members that you've listened to their recommendations, are learning, and growing and you'll start gaining that respect and credibility.
Remember, even if if you're absolutely right about respect, you can't demand it. you just will come off as whiny kid and you dont want to go there. Now is your chance to pick it up and start over.
Btw. I just want to add that @TomB is a highly respected member who goes out of his way to help new collectors IMO. As I said before, I would have loved to have access to his knowledge and helpfulness back in the days when I was a YN.
Read coin texts and message boards and learn! I had a 'fatal' attraction for darkly toned coins when I resumed collecting 2 decades ago. I fell in love with "black beauties" after seeing crusty, original bust halves for the first time as a pre-teen. However, I found out that toning can hide serious problems like corrosion. Posters here, and particularly Ricko, got me to appreciate untoned or lightly toned coins for what they are, coins with only slight "rust" or tarnish. People tease Ricko for his "blast white" tastes, but he's right! Toning is the start of corrosion. Here's a good thread on one of my "black beauties" purchased over a decade ago with some corrosion problems that managed to slip past the graders.
Soaking coins in acetone to remove any acidic leachate from soft PVC flips was another education for me. I now can recognize even the signs of environmental damage and can select better coins for my collection rather than "burnt" PVC coins. A good, friendly dealer or a local coin club can greatly speed up that education process.
My mistake was not going around to different dealers and finding someone (dealer or collector) who could judge my choices and steer me clear of problems. This board has helped me, but there's nothing like discussing coins face to face with someone with more expertise in coins and collecting.
@davewesen said:
EEK, you read it as unc .... they labeled it as high grade
when you buy something at auction, it is a bad policy to back out without solid reason ... eBay is not an approval service
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I don't think SummerDays should return his coin because it looks like a perfectly fine coin. Saying an AU coin is 'high grade' isn't misrepresentation because AU coins that shows substantial luster are high grade to many collectors. Furthermore, the pictures reveal the light wear.
Sorry, but eBay has become an approval service the past few years for me with all the misrepresentation and poor photography I've encountered. If I become angered because a coin is misrepresented or deceptively photographed to hide problems, then I'm gonna return the coin! Period! I don't need to learn any lessons here. The dealers do! I've had it with eBay sellers hiding the problems with their coins! The seller that sold me this Grant shot the coin from some weird angle to hide the fact that it had been cleaned to the point that Grant's face looked like stainless steel. Sad, because I was so excited about this coin that I posted it here and got nice reviews. I couldn't wait for it to arrive in the mail. What I saw when I opened the package immediately ruined my Saturday morning. Fortunately, the FUN show will be here soon so I can purge the bitterness I've developed from dishonest eBay sellers this year.
@TomB said:
So, you paid $10.94 for an obviously circulated, common date Buffalo nickel that was listed as "high grade", which an AU is for this series. I might be wrong, but it seems to me that you are following the same path that you followed in the last two user name accounts you had on these boards.
At some point you have to take it upon yourself and either learn what you are doing or simply stop doing it. It's that simple.
You say “obviously circulated” as if I’m knowledgeable in buffalo nickels. Dude, you seem like a jerk, based on your many comments on my posts and I’m getting tired of it. People like you are why nobody wants to learn about coins, and is actually the reason I stopped posting on these boards for a long time. Do me a favor and either, stop talking down on me, and help me respectfully or, I can just block you and I can just as easily get help from the people who are actually kind. I’m a learning collector, and as I’m asking questions, I’m learning. That’s why I’m posting. Being a complete jerk to me, a novice collector, isn’t helping.
There's a lot of back and forth since this reply was written, but it's too late for me to read it all. Since I've been in your shoes age-wise, I have a few comments. I've known @TomB on these boards since 2001 (when I was 14) and in person since probably 2002. He's as kind and generous with his time and knowledge (and boy is he knowledgeable!) as you'll find. That said, Tom is not just knowledgeable about coins, he's also wise. Rather than take offense at a critique, internalize it. Tom has told me when I've made mistakes with purchases (as have others whom I greatly respect). I could be bitter than they didn't pat me on the back, but all that would do is lead me to make another bad purchase.
Tough love may not be what you want to hear, but coddling won't prove beneficial in the long run. To be very clear, Tom didn't call you names or insult you, but he also answered directly instead of beating around the bush (heh, unintentional pun). You would be wise to consider that when someone as knowledgeable as Tom takes the time to write a reply, it's probably worth thinking long and hard about what it means and how you can use it to become a better collector.
I've made plenty of bad purchases, especially back when I was so eager to buy coins that I couldn't take a step back to really evaluate them. Tom is one of the main reasons I don't do that anymore, and his influence is seen throughout my collection.
@SummerDays3104 said:
Dude, you seem like a jerk, based on your many comments on my posts and I’m getting tired of it. People like you are why nobody wants to learn about coins, and is actually the reason I stopped posting on these boards for a long time.
Nobody wants to learn about coins? Quit extrapolating.
You need to read more and post less. Much less.
Oh, so posting less questions about the coins I’m collecting helps me? When nobody else is posting the exact coins I’m holding? Asking questions helps me learn. As I’m posting, I’m learning about the coins. You guys are toxic. And half the comments prove that point
Most people responded respectfully. Constructive criticism is a sign of respect not disrespect. You shouldn't expect that everything will be simply an attaboy.
Where we became constructively critical is when you simply chose to put your mistake on the seller rather than owning it. The item specifics for that coin even say circulated. I don't see where it was ever misrepresented by the seller.
@TomB said:
So, you paid $10.94 for an obviously circulated, common date Buffalo nickel that was listed as "high grade", which an AU is for this series. I might be wrong, but it seems to me that you are following the same path that you followed in the last two user name accounts you had on these boards.
At some point you have to take it upon yourself and either learn what you are doing or simply stop doing it. It's that simple.
You say “obviously circulated” as if I’m knowledgeable in buffalo nickels. Dude, you seem like a jerk, based on your many comments on my posts and I’m getting tired of it. People like you are why nobody wants to learn about coins, and is actually the reason I stopped posting on these boards for a long time. Do me a favor and either, stop talking down on me, and help me respectfully or, I can just block you and I can just as easily get help from the people who are actually kind. I’m a learning collector, and as I’m asking questions, I’m learning. That’s why I’m posting. Being a complete jerk to me, a novice collector, isn’t helping.
There's a lot of back and forth since this reply was written, but it's too late for me to read it all. Since I've been in your shoes age-wise, I have a few comments. I've known @TomB on these boards since 2001 (when I was 14) and in person since probably 2002. He's as kind and generous with his time and knowledge (and boy is he knowledgeable!) as you'll find. That said, Tom is not just knowledgeable about coins, he's also wise. Rather than take offense at a critique, internalize it. Tom has told me when I've made mistakes with purchases (as have others whom I greatly respect). I could be bitter than they didn't pat me on the back, but all that would do is lead me to make another bad purchase.
Tough love may not be what you want to hear, but coddling won't prove beneficial in the long run. To be very clear, Tom didn't call you names or insult you, but he also answered directly instead of beating around the bush (heh, unintentional pun). You would be wise to consider that when someone as knowledgeable as Tom takes the time to write a reply, it's probably worth thinking long and hard about what it means and how you can use it to become a better collector.
I've made plenty of bad purchases, especially back when I was so eager to buy coins that I couldn't take a step back to really evaluate them. Tom is one of the main reasons I don't do that anymore, and his influence is seen throughout my collection.
I’ll just add that @TomB is one of the most knowledgeable, direct, thorough and helpful posters we’re fortunate to have on this forum. Like it or not, his feedback and advice are extremely valuable.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
I’d slow down a bit and take some time to learn. If you’re looking for high grade Buffs, buy a few graded examples.
Take a breath, read the responses (Flying Al mentions buying graded examples right away in this thread) and stop whining. I'd put more energy into learning about coins than being so defensive. If someone says it's obviously circulated and another says the horn is worn, these are important responses.
I started reading this thread with interest and it suddenly turned into a sour argumentative one- calling half of the members here toxic is ridiculous.
@jmlanzaf said:
That's full retail for an AU coin. It's a fair price.
Is this an AU coin? I can’t tell when it comes to buffalos
Look at the point of the hip. See the mushy spot. That is a rub and considered circulation and makes it AU.
Also look at the shoulder
Also look at the leg below the hip point
Also look on the cheek of the chief
Those are your high points and will exhibit rubs. Especially key is looking at them in hand and looking for the break in the luster. Kinda like looking at a Krispy Kreme donought and seeing some icing missing or cracking.
Without understanding the high points of the coin, you are just throwing away money. Especially on raw coins on ebay.
I think the Mega redbook shows all the design areas to view.
BST: KindaNewish (3/21/21), WQuarterFreddie (3/30/21), Meltdown (4/6/21), DBSTrader2 (5/5/21) AKA- unclemonkey on Blow Out
Buffalo nickels are one of the toughest coins to learn to grade properly. Certain years have extremely weak strikes too. You need to get some specialized info if your going to seriously pursue Buffalo nickels. I would suggest some of the late Ron Popes books as a great place to learn about them.
Successful BST with ad4400, Kccoin, lablover, pointfivezero, koynekwest, jwitten, coin22lover, HalfDimeDude, erwindoc, jyzskowsi, COINS MAKE CENTS, AlanSki, BryceM
I will buy the coin from you if you succeed in the purchase. I have a group of Buffs to send in for my grading set.
I have several boxes of 20
Buffs
Lincoln Cents
Morgans
Peace Dollars
I call them my grading sets. Typically buy slabbed across several grades or in the case of Buffs and Lincolns try to make a few.
Like a post above, I cover the grade and sort them according to how the grades appear to me.
Why?
It takes consistent volume to retain your eye for grading.
You need coins in hand to rotate and get a full view of the coin.
How else can you do this when the next show is a month and 150 miles away?
My advice from hard learned lessons...
Slow down
Tuition is not cheap
The first $10K is like setting a match to $100 bills
Buy slabbed coins
Spend more on books about the series you like
Connect with a dealer (If Buffs scratch your itch, the Angel Dees the top dealer to buy from)
Spend money and travel to shows and take the ANA classes (they offer a week long summer program)
Keep your cheap mistakes and send them in for a grade. (Coin could have scratch, cleaned, color)
Early on the only deals on Ebay is to pick varieties (preferably unattributed in slabs)
The money you save from gambling on raw coins will buy a plane ticket to a major show.
BST: KindaNewish (3/21/21), WQuarterFreddie (3/30/21), Meltdown (4/6/21), DBSTrader2 (5/5/21) AKA- unclemonkey on Blow Out
Keep your cheap mistakes and send them in for a grade.
Why should someone send their “cheap mistakes” in for a grade? I think you can learn about grading without (as in the case of this coin) spending roughly $30 to get a $5 coin graded.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
@gumby1234 said:
Buffalo nickels are one of the toughest coins to learn to grade properly. Certain years have extremely weak strikes too. You need to get some specialized info if your going to seriously pursue Buffalo nickels. I would suggest some of the late Ron Popes books as a great place to learn about them.
More great advice.
Each year, each mint, had their own strike qualities.
It is really a case by case hunt.
BST: KindaNewish (3/21/21), WQuarterFreddie (3/30/21), Meltdown (4/6/21), DBSTrader2 (5/5/21) AKA- unclemonkey on Blow Out
Keep your cheap mistakes and send them in for a grade.
Why should someone send their “cheap mistakes” in for a grade? I think you can learn about grading without (as in the case of this coin) spending roughly $30 to get a $5 coin graded.
Respectfully disagree.
Not saying I would randomly buy and send in the coins, but he can learn alot besides AU and BU.
Problem coins including cleaned, questionable color etc...
He sought out a deal on this particular coin and should see it thru to the end.
Maybe it will make him slow down and think, and buy slabbed and compare.
BST: KindaNewish (3/21/21), WQuarterFreddie (3/30/21), Meltdown (4/6/21), DBSTrader2 (5/5/21) AKA- unclemonkey on Blow Out
Keep your cheap mistakes and send them in for a grade.
Why should someone send their “cheap mistakes” in for a grade? I think you can learn about grading without (as in the case of this coin) spending roughly $30 to get a $5 coin graded.
Respectfully disagree.
Not saying I would randomly buy and send in the coins, but he can learn alot besides AU and BU.
Problem coins including cleaned, questionable color etc...
He sought out a deal on this particular coin and should see it thru to the end.
Maybe it will make him slow down and think, and buy slabbed and compare.
He can learn a lot about most grades, as well as problem coins, without paying grading fees that exceed the value of the coins. And he need not “see it thru” by getting this coin graded - he’s already been correctly told that it’s AU.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
ell, I like Jefferson nickels, and I know them really well, but I want to move on to buffalo nickels and silver dollars now that I have the money. I specifically want Morgan’s and Peace, but I’m decently knowledgeable on peace’s. So Morgan’s and buffalos are what I need help in
In my opinion, the best way to learn to grade is to look at coins, LOTS of coins. "Playing" the GTG posts on this site is a way to start. Look for the ones involving Morgans and Buffs. If you can, go to
a major show where auction lots are on display. It costs nothing to register and look at the coins.
As you take each coin from the box, cover the grade and give it a grade you think it deserves.
(most of the coins in auctions are slabbed). When you're giving the coin the same grade as the slab
70-75% of the time, you can be confident you're on the right track. That being said, if you do this,
you should try to buy something that you want for your collection by placing a fair bid.
I know some people may be blunt in their replies, but the vast majority of folks here are
knowledgeable and are WILLING TO SHARE THAT KNOWLEDGE. I've learned a lot on this forum,
and hope that when I've posted that I helped someone as well
To the point @MasonG made - the seller accurately filled in “Circulated” under the “About This Item” section in the listing. I think the coin was exactly as described by the Seller in the listing - a high grade circulated example - i.e. AU. The listing is a bit sales-y but it’s accurate.
There’s no shame in making a $10 mistake. $10 is cheap tuition.
I recently went through the process of submitting the coins I bought as a YN in the 90s. It was painful. There’s a steep learning curve in this hobby and the best thing to do is look at as many coins in person as possible. Also, take the ANA grading class - it’s awesome!
Keep your cheap mistakes and send them in for a grade.
Why should someone send their “cheap mistakes” in for a grade? I think you can learn about grading without (as in the case of this coin) spending roughly $30 to get a $5 coin graded.
Respectfully disagree.
Not saying I would randomly buy and send in the coins, but he can learn alot besides AU and BU.
Problem coins including cleaned, questionable color etc...
He sought out a deal on this particular coin and should see it thru to the end.
Maybe it will make him slow down and think, and buy slabbed and compare.
He can learn a lot about most grades, as well as problem coins, without paying grading fees that exceed the value of the coins. And he need not “see it thru” by getting this coin graded - he’s already been correctly told that it’s AU.
Agree with Mark. I know these posts can get monotonous with people buying coins they thought were good deals and winding up not being what they hoped for but, I don't think it's good advice to advise them to waste more money. It's bad enough to have your bubble burst after reading knowledgeable responses but then to take advice to lose more money? Just doesn't seem the right thing to do here.
Enjoy the coin for what it is, and don't let your disappointment in the coin get the best of you. Your grading skills will improve over time, and as you understand the typical wear patterns of each series you too will spot "obvious" wear that those unfamiliar with the series cannot. We are all at different levels here (and I am no expert, for sure), but I hate seeing babies thrown-out with bathwater.
This was a $10 investment in a $6-8 coin... Did you win big? No. But you really didn't lose either. You got a fine coin, and a nice lesson... all for less than the cost of eating at McDonalds.
I am a newer collector (started April 2020), and I primarily focus on U.S. Half Cents and Type Coins. Early copper is my favorite.
All right then. I just read the thread in its entirety.
(Sorry for the dumb post above.)
I was always under the impression that if PCGS kicks you off these boards, you weren't allowed to come back with a different user name and pick up where you left off before.
Perhaps I am behind the times, and PCGS now allows exceptions.
Not sure why so much objection to establishing your own grading set. In fact, JA is taking that approach at CAC. I would try minimize expense on it - no sense in paying $30 to slab a $5 buff when you can buy one already slabbed out of the bargain bin for $5 at any major show.
@J2035 said:
Not sure why so much objection to establishing your own grading set. In fact, JA is taking that approach at CAC. I would try minimize expense on it - no sense in paying $30 to slab a $5 buff when you can buy one already slabbed out of the bargain bin for $5 at any major show.
I have no problem with having a grading set. They are fun. But the suggestion made was to spend $1000 submitting your own coins. Buying someone else's mustard for $5 or $10 is a whole different story.
The box of 20 coins is the same approach Fivaz used in the grading seminar (NGC slabs BTW)
Probably should have said... just buy CAC'd
Respectfully disagree with the two well established experts... and they are the experts in this debate.
No one is opposing the idea of a grading set. But spending $1000 submitting coins that are with $10 is the worst way to do it. You can easily find details coins and low grade common date Buffaloes for $10 that are already holdered.
JA isn't spending $1000 creating a grading set. He's slabbing them himself
Most noobs will blow $1K before the light bulbs comes on.
I rest my case... outta here.
You're talking to an 18-year-old about spending $1000 to create an (unnecessary?) grading set of inexpensive coins in expensive holders. I made up my mind. It's not worth $1000 in slab fees to (re)create a grading set when they exist out there already.
I put together a grading set of BUffaloes for the local junior coin club a few years back. 100% raw. Less than $20 invested in the circ grades.
Even if you MUST have a PCGS slabbed grading set because you don't trust your eyes or the internet - have you seen the PCGS photograde guide? - I still wouldn't be spending $30 to $40 to slab a VG Buffalo just so I could say that I correctly predicted that the Buffalo would come back VG. That's a rich man's game not a necessary expense for an 18 year old novice.
Most of us are old enough to have learned how to grade without ever touching a slab because they didn't exist. And back in those "good old days" there weren't even millions of high resolution images on the computer. If you can't learn to grade - subtle damage issues perhaps aside - from PCGS photograde and the Heritage auction archives (shout out to @MFeld) then you aren't going to learn from a $1000 box of 20.
For $1000, you got a box of 20. For $0, I've got a million high resolution images.
We can agree to disagree. But my way is definitely cheaper and arguably at least equivalent.
And if you must have slabs, I would still do this:
Or you could take that $1000 and get almost an entire album of Buffalo Nickels in G-VF. Which of those would be more fun and more educational for a YN with a modest budget? When I was 21 I started building a Buffalo album. After a year or two of going to shows and looking at tons of raw (and some slabbed) coins I learned how to grade and even how to differentiate strike weakness from wear and particulars by date/MM. I couldn’t grade MS coins at all but I could tell a G4 from a G6. I never had to buy a single graded coin (or submit one) to do it.
@jmlanzaf said:
Even if you MUST have a PCGS slabbed grading set because you don't trust your eyes or the internet - have you seen the PCGS photograde guide?
That was my first thought. If you can't figure it out with those photos, you're not going to figure it out with a grading set.
Try seeking out advice BEFORE you bid on the next coin but even better to ask questions by visiting a local coin show and looking at PCGS holdered coins to learn what an AU versus mint state coin really looks like. Even then, it is tough to translate in person knowledge to knowledge of photos of coins.
In the meantime, you survived very well on the current purchase and received fair value for your price paid.
I'm not sure this is about "winning" or "losing" but there appear to be more posters on my side than yours.
"Keep your cheap mistakes and send them in for a grade. (Coin could have scratch, cleaned, color)"
Sorry, I didn't realize your cheap, possibly scratched, mistakes were all AU or better.
I probably should also add that, while I disagree with the need for $1000 grading set, you did give the YN a lot of really good advice on this thread that I do agree with.
It has already been stated several times in this thread, but I logged in to mention it again…
You need to stop buying so much and spend more time looking at coins, reading about coins and absorbing any coin information you can. If you’re serious about coin collecting and want to build a quality collection it takes time, patience, dedication, etc.
From just this thread it seems like your goal is to “strike it rich” with “deals of a lifetime” and if that’s the only reason you’re buying coins then there isn’t much that anyone here can do to help you.
I remember being in your shoes. I’ve been what I would consider a pretty serious collector for about 12 years now and in the beginning I had no clue about anything. All I knew was I thought coins were really interesting and I wanted to build a collection.
I spent a lot of time on cointalk and every day I would READ through any thread that sounded interesting to me. I would always look through every new post on the “Let’s See Your Newest Acquisition” thread. I saw over and over again on that forum “buy the book before the coin” which is good advice, but I’m the type of person that likes to “learn by doing” and you may be too and that is totally fine. So I would prefer to buy the coins I liked and really spend some time looking at them. Then I’d snap some photos and post them in the “new acquisition” thread. It was great to get peoples feedback. I would just read what people had to say and move on because I knew those members knew more than I did. I still get on the forums everyday and read what people are talking about. I also am on Instagram every single day looking at and talking about coins.
Once I gravitated to a specific series and wanted to start going after higher end, more expensive examples I ended up buying the book. At some point I went after Franklin halves so I bought Rick Tomaskas guide book for that series which is worth its weight in gold.
I spent many, many hours reading through that book. Every time I found a coin I was considering bidding on or outright buying, I would consult the guide book first. Now I’m at the point where I don’t need the guide book, but i would have made many more mistakes along the way without it and it would have cost me a lot of money.
To me it sounds like you need to figure out and be honest with yourself why you want to buy coins.
Are you looking for a quick buck or do you enjoy coins for any number of reasons - art, history, etc?
If it’s the former, good luck. If it’s the latter, be patient, be a sponge, be open to constructive criticism, be dedicated, look at as many coins as you can, read as much as you can.
Sometimes the best thing we can do is focus on something we want, and do what we can to get the best we can get within our parameters.
I remember my Dealer / Mentor friend asking me before I went to the coming show that weekend, and a week or so after our heart-to-heart talk all those almost 33 years ago ... "What are you going to be looking for?"
I didn't have an answer, so I stopped and thought about it for a few minutes. I had been thinking about it, kind of, but I hadn't focused on a solid answer.
"I want to find a real nice Choice AU Standing Lib' to start a collection of those", I replied, then after a pause, "and maybe another mint-marked 30's Walker I need."
"You need a 36-S Walker?" he asked after a moment.
I didn't need to look. "Yes. Why?"
"Tell you what", he said, "you go find a real nice Standing Lib', and stop over and show it to me after you find it. I'll have a Very Choice AU 36-S at the table for you."
I was a little puzzled and he picked up on it quickly.
"If you're really going to buy what you can afford to keep, I have a few really nice things you'd like. I'm not interested in selling them to someone who is gong to try to sell them to someone else for $5. or $10. more. I'll bring the 36-S. Study up and see if you can find a really good Standing Lib' to start that part of your collection."
That was either May or June of 1990, and that weekend I bought my first SLQ. I paid the princely sum of $72. for it. I still have that coin in fact. I brought it over and showed it to him, and we discussed it merits. I was so jazzed that I found a good coin that I was going to keep I almost had forgot the Walker, but, true to his word, he pulled a gorgeous 36-S in what was easily 58 from a box behind the table and sold me that at a very favorable price.
I had PCGS grade the raw SLQ's in 2004, and as I always suspected, that one came back as a 55. Unfortunately all the Walkers (including the beautiful 36-S he sold me) were stolen about 10 years ago, or I'd still have it too.
Anyway, that started a new type of passion for me in collecting. One where I would try to think about what I wanted, and then go see if I could find it. Maybe not an exact date or mint, but if I decided I wanted a 20's mint-marked SLQ in Ch AU, or a tougher Barber Dime in Ch AU, or a War Nickel in Gem, I tried my best to find something that matched that. I always had a list of 4 to 7 or so things. Not too many, but not so few I was only looking for one thing.
That led me forward for several years until work and kids and family got me to slow down for a while (I've had several of those phases). During that time, among other things, I found almost a dozen SLQ's, another dozen better Walkers and at least a half roll of Choice/Gem Mercury Dimes. I know I flipped a few things too when the opportunity presented itself, but generally I sold less and less during that time, and tried to focus on building my collection more and more, which gave me great satisfaction.
Here's that first SLQ, which I found an old picture of, and is still part of my Registry set;
“We are only their care-takers,” he posed, “if we take good care of them, then centuries from now they may still be here … ”
@braddick said:
Looks like the same dealer has relisted the exact same coin.
Did the OP back out of his commitment to purchase it?
After @SummerDays3104 mentioned the seller's reputation I went and read his (amusing) negative feedback. My favorite was from someone who purported to have purchased 60 coins over six weeks and very happy with them, but wasn't happy with the seller's (who has six figure feedback) communication so he had to leave negative feedback for two.
Based on that and what the OP has said here, I assume he made some noises about being reluctant to pay at which point the seller blocked him and moved on at which point it became impossible for the purchase to complete.
Comments
Brevity does not equate to a lack of decorum.
If someone says something is “obviously” something you should not take offense. Either their concept of “obvious” is wrong or you have more to learn. Potentially both. If you claim to know nothing about something don’t be offended when characteristics are obvious to others who are educated.
If you’re going to take a shotgun approach, you have to live with the results. My early collection proves that out. Some of it’s really nice, some of it’s junk.
Own every purchase you make. The party with the most knowledge gets the deal. If it’s not you, your best hope is a fair transaction (which there’s nothing wrong with).
No one here owes you anything. You put yourself out there with a question, you be happy with the answers. If you’ll pay attention to the responses you’ll learn about coins and how relationships in the coin world work. You might not like it but you’re not making the rules.
@SummerDays3104
Read this post and then read it again. You have an amazing opportunity to learn from well RESPECTED and extremely knowledgeable numismatic experts. When I was a YN in the 70s, I would have killed to have access to a fraction of the info you've received. Don't blow this opportunity
Sorry but I'm falling into the grouchy old " get off my lawn guy" but trying to be helpful (?). Knock off the whining about respect (I think your going that way but still feel compelled to add my 2 cent piece) In the real world, Respect and credibilityi are earned. Sorry if that upsets you but that's how things work. Demanding respect is quickest way to lose it.
Building respect and credibility takes time. As you grow and learn, it will become apparent to others members that you've listened to their recommendations, are learning, and growing and you'll start gaining that respect and credibility.
Remember, even if if you're absolutely right about respect, you can't demand it. you just will come off as whiny kid and you dont want to go there. Now is your chance to pick it up and start over.
Btw. I just want to add that @TomB is a highly respected member who goes out of his way to help new collectors IMO. As I said before, I would have loved to have access to his knowledge and helpfulness back in the days when I was a YN.
Read coin texts and message boards and learn! I had a 'fatal' attraction for darkly toned coins when I resumed collecting 2 decades ago. I fell in love with "black beauties" after seeing crusty, original bust halves for the first time as a pre-teen. However, I found out that toning can hide serious problems like corrosion. Posters here, and particularly Ricko, got me to appreciate untoned or lightly toned coins for what they are, coins with only slight "rust" or tarnish. People tease Ricko for his "blast white" tastes, but he's right! Toning is the start of corrosion. Here's a good thread on one of my "black beauties" purchased over a decade ago with some corrosion problems that managed to slip past the graders.
https://forums.collectors.com/discussion/1083707/opinions-wanted-on-a-lafayette-dollar
Soaking coins in acetone to remove any acidic leachate from soft PVC flips was another education for me. I now can recognize even the signs of environmental damage and can select better coins for my collection rather than "burnt" PVC coins. A good, friendly dealer or a local coin club can greatly speed up that education process.
My mistake was not going around to different dealers and finding someone (dealer or collector) who could judge my choices and steer me clear of problems. This board has helped me, but there's nothing like discussing coins face to face with someone with more expertise in coins and collecting.
Where can I get one of those nickels at ?
I'll give you $6.99
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I don't think SummerDays should return his coin because it looks like a perfectly fine coin. Saying an AU coin is 'high grade' isn't misrepresentation because AU coins that shows substantial luster are high grade to many collectors. Furthermore, the pictures reveal the light wear.
Sorry, but eBay has become an approval service the past few years for me with all the misrepresentation and poor photography I've encountered. If I become angered because a coin is misrepresented or deceptively photographed to hide problems, then I'm gonna return the coin! Period! I don't need to learn any lessons here. The dealers do! I've had it with eBay sellers hiding the problems with their coins! The seller that sold me this Grant shot the coin from some weird angle to hide the fact that it had been cleaned to the point that Grant's face looked like stainless steel. Sad, because I was so excited about this coin that I posted it here and got nice reviews. I couldn't wait for it to arrive in the mail. What I saw when I opened the package immediately ruined my Saturday morning. Fortunately, the FUN show will be here soon so I can purge the bitterness I've developed from dishonest eBay sellers this year.
There's a lot of back and forth since this reply was written, but it's too late for me to read it all. Since I've been in your shoes age-wise, I have a few comments. I've known @TomB on these boards since 2001 (when I was 14) and in person since probably 2002. He's as kind and generous with his time and knowledge (and boy is he knowledgeable!) as you'll find. That said, Tom is not just knowledgeable about coins, he's also wise. Rather than take offense at a critique, internalize it. Tom has told me when I've made mistakes with purchases (as have others whom I greatly respect). I could be bitter than they didn't pat me on the back, but all that would do is lead me to make another bad purchase.
Tough love may not be what you want to hear, but coddling won't prove beneficial in the long run. To be very clear, Tom didn't call you names or insult you, but he also answered directly instead of beating around the bush (heh, unintentional pun). You would be wise to consider that when someone as knowledgeable as Tom takes the time to write a reply, it's probably worth thinking long and hard about what it means and how you can use it to become a better collector.
I've made plenty of bad purchases, especially back when I was so eager to buy coins that I couldn't take a step back to really evaluate them. Tom is one of the main reasons I don't do that anymore, and his influence is seen throughout my collection.
Most people responded respectfully. Constructive criticism is a sign of respect not disrespect. You shouldn't expect that everything will be simply an attaboy.
Where we became constructively critical is when you simply chose to put your mistake on the seller rather than owning it. The item specifics for that coin even say circulated. I don't see where it was ever misrepresented by the seller.
How much respect did you show the seller?
I’ll just add that @TomB is one of the most knowledgeable, direct, thorough and helpful posters we’re fortunate to have on this forum. Like it or not, his feedback and advice are extremely valuable.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
I’d slow down a bit and take some time to learn. If you’re looking for high grade Buffs, buy a few graded examples.
Take a breath, read the responses (Flying Al mentions buying graded examples right away in this thread) and stop whining. I'd put more energy into learning about coins than being so defensive. If someone says it's obviously circulated and another says the horn is worn, these are important responses.
I started reading this thread with interest and it suddenly turned into a sour argumentative one- calling half of the members here toxic is ridiculous.
Look at the point of the hip. See the mushy spot. That is a rub and considered circulation and makes it AU.
Also look at the shoulder
Also look at the leg below the hip point
Also look on the cheek of the chief
Those are your high points and will exhibit rubs. Especially key is looking at them in hand and looking for the break in the luster. Kinda like looking at a Krispy Kreme donought and seeing some icing missing or cracking.
Without understanding the high points of the coin, you are just throwing away money. Especially on raw coins on ebay.
I think the Mega redbook shows all the design areas to view.
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Buffalo nickels are one of the toughest coins to learn to grade properly. Certain years have extremely weak strikes too. You need to get some specialized info if your going to seriously pursue Buffalo nickels. I would suggest some of the late Ron Popes books as a great place to learn about them.
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I will buy the coin from you if you succeed in the purchase. I have a group of Buffs to send in for my grading set.
I have several boxes of 20
Buffs
Lincoln Cents
Morgans
Peace Dollars
I call them my grading sets. Typically buy slabbed across several grades or in the case of Buffs and Lincolns try to make a few.
Like a post above, I cover the grade and sort them according to how the grades appear to me.
Why?
It takes consistent volume to retain your eye for grading.
You need coins in hand to rotate and get a full view of the coin.
How else can you do this when the next show is a month and 150 miles away?
My advice from hard learned lessons...
Slow down
Tuition is not cheap
The first $10K is like setting a match to $100 bills
Buy slabbed coins
Spend more on books about the series you like
Connect with a dealer (If Buffs scratch your itch, the Angel Dees the top dealer to buy from)
Spend money and travel to shows and take the ANA classes (they offer a week long summer program)
Keep your cheap mistakes and send them in for a grade. (Coin could have scratch, cleaned, color)
Early on the only deals on Ebay is to pick varieties (preferably unattributed in slabs)
The money you save from gambling on raw coins will buy a plane ticket to a major show.
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@yspsales
Why should someone send their “cheap mistakes” in for a grade? I think you can learn about grading without (as in the case of this coin) spending roughly $30 to get a $5 coin graded.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
More great advice.
Each year, each mint, had their own strike qualities.
It is really a case by case hunt.
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Respectfully disagree.
Not saying I would randomly buy and send in the coins, but he can learn alot besides AU and BU.
Problem coins including cleaned, questionable color etc...
He sought out a deal on this particular coin and should see it thru to the end.
Maybe it will make him slow down and think, and buy slabbed and compare.
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He can learn a lot about most grades, as well as problem coins, without paying grading fees that exceed the value of the coins. And he need not “see it thru” by getting this coin graded - he’s already been correctly told that it’s AU.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
ell, I like Jefferson nickels, and I know them really well, but I want to move on to buffalo nickels and silver dollars now that I have the money. I specifically want Morgan’s and Peace, but I’m decently knowledgeable on peace’s. So Morgan’s and buffalos are what I need help in
In my opinion, the best way to learn to grade is to look at coins, LOTS of coins. "Playing" the GTG posts on this site is a way to start. Look for the ones involving Morgans and Buffs. If you can, go to
a major show where auction lots are on display. It costs nothing to register and look at the coins.
As you take each coin from the box, cover the grade and give it a grade you think it deserves.
(most of the coins in auctions are slabbed). When you're giving the coin the same grade as the slab
70-75% of the time, you can be confident you're on the right track. That being said, if you do this,
you should try to buy something that you want for your collection by placing a fair bid.
I know some people may be blunt in their replies, but the vast majority of folks here are
knowledgeable and are WILLING TO SHARE THAT KNOWLEDGE. I've learned a lot on this forum,
and hope that when I've posted that I helped someone as well
Another way to identify when a coin is not uncirculated is when the seller says it's circulated. As the seller of this buffalo nickel did.
Just sayin'.
To the point @MasonG made - the seller accurately filled in “Circulated” under the “About This Item” section in the listing. I think the coin was exactly as described by the Seller in the listing - a high grade circulated example - i.e. AU. The listing is a bit sales-y but it’s accurate.
There’s no shame in making a $10 mistake. $10 is cheap tuition.
I recently went through the process of submitting the coins I bought as a YN in the 90s. It was painful. There’s a steep learning curve in this hobby and the best thing to do is look at as many coins in person as possible. Also, take the ANA grading class - it’s awesome!
Agree with Mark. I know these posts can get monotonous with people buying coins they thought were good deals and winding up not being what they hoped for but, I don't think it's good advice to advise them to waste more money. It's bad enough to have your bubble burst after reading knowledgeable responses but then to take advice to lose more money? Just doesn't seem the right thing to do here.
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Looks like the same dealer has relisted the exact same coin.
Did the OP back out of his commitment to purchase it?
peacockcoins
🤔
Just typed in 1936 Buffalo nickels on eBay search and wow there’s a bagillion available. Cheap. Any grade slabbed or not. Interesting 🧐
🎶 shout shout, let it all out 🎶
He paid $50 for the MS65 1938d Buff at the pawn shop.
Now purchase the AU53-58, MS62-63, MS64, MS65, MS66 in 1938d.
Similar in color, spot free, and no toners.
Four examples of each for 20 coins in total
Stick them in a PCGS box holding 20 slabs and look at them a couple times a week with the grade covered.
Best $1000 you can spend outside of a plane ticket to a major show, coupled with an afternoon to sitting in an ANA seminar will Bill Fivaz.
IMHO... One needs a volume of coins, accessibility to coins, and viewing of coins almost weekly to maintain some level of skill.
All the 2D online coins in the world cannot train you to see in 3D.
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Clearly you are a principal at PCGS.
Why can't you look at other people's slabs, raw coins, pictures on the internet without spending (throwing away?) $1000 to create your own?
[I won't even get into how many arguments go on in this forum over PCGS getting the grade "wrong".]
Enjoy the coin for what it is, and don't let your disappointment in the coin get the best of you. Your grading skills will improve over time, and as you understand the typical wear patterns of each series you too will spot "obvious" wear that those unfamiliar with the series cannot. We are all at different levels here (and I am no expert, for sure), but I hate seeing babies thrown-out with bathwater.
This was a $10 investment in a $6-8 coin... Did you win big? No. But you really didn't lose either. You got a fine coin, and a nice lesson... all for less than the cost of eating at McDonalds.
I am a newer collector (started April 2020), and I primarily focus on U.S. Half Cents and Type Coins. Early copper is my favorite.
All right then. I just read the thread in its entirety.
(Sorry for the dumb post above.)
I was always under the impression that if PCGS kicks you off these boards, you weren't allowed to come back with a different user name and pick up where you left off before.
Perhaps I am behind the times, and PCGS now allows exceptions.
peacockcoins
@jmlanzaf and @MFeld
Y'all take it up with ANA
The box of 20 coins is the same approach Fivaz used in the grading seminar (NGC slabs BTW)
Probably should have said... just buy CAC'd
Respectfully disagree with the two well established experts... and they are the experts in this debate.
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The solution here is to be sure to only buy properly graded coins.
Not sure why so much objection to establishing your own grading set. In fact, JA is taking that approach at CAC. I would try minimize expense on it - no sense in paying $30 to slab a $5 buff when you can buy one already slabbed out of the bargain bin for $5 at any major show.
You want some good advice?
1- Buy the book and not the coin.
2-Buy some low grade mint state examples, that are already graded.
I have no problem with having a grading set. They are fun. But the suggestion made was to spend $1000 submitting your own coins. Buying someone else's mustard for $5 or $10 is a whole different story.
No one is opposing the idea of a grading set. But spending $1000 submitting coins that are with $10 is the worst way to do it. You can easily find details coins and low grade common date Buffaloes for $10 that are already holdered.
JA isn't spending $1000 creating a grading set. He's slabbing them himself
CAC, PCGS, ANA, and probably ANAC's and NGC use some form of grading set??
Buy slabbed? Don't buy slabbed? Send in for grade? Don't make your own?
@MFeld and @jmlanzaf please make up your minds.
Most noobs will blow $1K before the light bulbs comes on.
I rest my case... outta here.
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You're talking to an 18-year-old about spending $1000 to create an (unnecessary?) grading set of inexpensive coins in expensive holders. I made up my mind. It's not worth $1000 in slab fees to (re)create a grading set when they exist out there already.
I put together a grading set of BUffaloes for the local junior coin club a few years back. 100% raw. Less than $20 invested in the circ grades.
Even if you MUST have a PCGS slabbed grading set because you don't trust your eyes or the internet - have you seen the PCGS photograde guide? - I still wouldn't be spending $30 to $40 to slab a VG Buffalo just so I could say that I correctly predicted that the Buffalo would come back VG. That's a rich man's game not a necessary expense for an 18 year old novice.
Most of us are old enough to have learned how to grade without ever touching a slab because they didn't exist. And back in those "good old days" there weren't even millions of high resolution images on the computer. If you can't learn to grade - subtle damage issues perhaps aside - from PCGS photograde and the Heritage auction archives (shout out to @MFeld) then you aren't going to learn from a $1000 box of 20.
For $1000, you got a box of 20. For $0, I've got a million high resolution images.
We can agree to disagree. But my way is definitely cheaper and arguably at least equivalent.
And if you must have slabs, I would still do this:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/204084628660?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=FZmPicAeS8i&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=I7BWTu72SVS&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
OR this:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/204084628660?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=FZmPicAeS8i&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=I7BWTu72SVS&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
rather than submit it for $35.
Or you could take that $1000 and get almost an entire album of Buffalo Nickels in G-VF. Which of those would be more fun and more educational for a YN with a modest budget? When I was 21 I started building a Buffalo album. After a year or two of going to shows and looking at tons of raw (and some slabbed) coins I learned how to grade and even how to differentiate strike weakness from wear and particulars by date/MM. I couldn’t grade MS coins at all but I could tell a G4 from a G6. I never had to buy a single graded coin (or submit one) to do it.
That was my first thought. If you can't figure it out with those photos, you're not going to figure it out with a grading set.
Trying to learn something from this post, like what was the point...
Never said anything about anything below AU.
I have pushed books, PUP's, dealers, grading class, and an affordable strategy on this thread.
Yet, I still not sure what you are saying @jmlanzaf
I respect your dealer chops, but you are welcome to keep trying to win a debate you are losing.
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SummerDays3104:
Suggestion:
Try seeking out advice BEFORE you bid on the next coin but even better to ask questions by visiting a local coin show and looking at PCGS holdered coins to learn what an AU versus mint state coin really looks like. Even then, it is tough to translate in person knowledge to knowledge of photos of coins.
In the meantime, you survived very well on the current purchase and received fair value for your price paid.
Probably not a lot of YNs putting together an AU-UNC set of buffalo nickels...
Don't join the "losing" side.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/185629929865?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=_Xp_ahkETJC&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=I7BWTu72SVS&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
I'm not sure this is about "winning" or "losing" but there appear to be more posters on my side than yours.
"Keep your cheap mistakes and send them in for a grade. (Coin could have scratch, cleaned, color)"
Sorry, I didn't realize your cheap, possibly scratched, mistakes were all AU or better.
I probably should also add that, while I disagree with the need for $1000 grading set, you did give the YN a lot of really good advice on this thread that I do agree with.
Here you go...
It has already been stated several times in this thread, but I logged in to mention it again…
You need to stop buying so much and spend more time looking at coins, reading about coins and absorbing any coin information you can. If you’re serious about coin collecting and want to build a quality collection it takes time, patience, dedication, etc.
From just this thread it seems like your goal is to “strike it rich” with “deals of a lifetime” and if that’s the only reason you’re buying coins then there isn’t much that anyone here can do to help you.
I remember being in your shoes. I’ve been what I would consider a pretty serious collector for about 12 years now and in the beginning I had no clue about anything. All I knew was I thought coins were really interesting and I wanted to build a collection.
I spent a lot of time on cointalk and every day I would READ through any thread that sounded interesting to me. I would always look through every new post on the “Let’s See Your Newest Acquisition” thread. I saw over and over again on that forum “buy the book before the coin” which is good advice, but I’m the type of person that likes to “learn by doing” and you may be too and that is totally fine. So I would prefer to buy the coins I liked and really spend some time looking at them. Then I’d snap some photos and post them in the “new acquisition” thread. It was great to get peoples feedback. I would just read what people had to say and move on because I knew those members knew more than I did. I still get on the forums everyday and read what people are talking about. I also am on Instagram every single day looking at and talking about coins.
Once I gravitated to a specific series and wanted to start going after higher end, more expensive examples I ended up buying the book. At some point I went after Franklin halves so I bought Rick Tomaskas guide book for that series which is worth its weight in gold.
I spent many, many hours reading through that book. Every time I found a coin I was considering bidding on or outright buying, I would consult the guide book first. Now I’m at the point where I don’t need the guide book, but i would have made many more mistakes along the way without it and it would have cost me a lot of money.
To me it sounds like you need to figure out and be honest with yourself why you want to buy coins.
Are you looking for a quick buck or do you enjoy coins for any number of reasons - art, history, etc?
If it’s the former, good luck. If it’s the latter, be patient, be a sponge, be open to constructive criticism, be dedicated, look at as many coins as you can, read as much as you can.
Sometimes the best thing we can do is focus on something we want, and do what we can to get the best we can get within our parameters.
I remember my Dealer / Mentor friend asking me before I went to the coming show that weekend, and a week or so after our heart-to-heart talk all those almost 33 years ago ... "What are you going to be looking for?"
I didn't have an answer, so I stopped and thought about it for a few minutes. I had been thinking about it, kind of, but I hadn't focused on a solid answer.
"I want to find a real nice Choice AU Standing Lib' to start a collection of those", I replied, then after a pause, "and maybe another mint-marked 30's Walker I need."
"You need a 36-S Walker?" he asked after a moment.
I didn't need to look. "Yes. Why?"
"Tell you what", he said, "you go find a real nice Standing Lib', and stop over and show it to me after you find it. I'll have a Very Choice AU 36-S at the table for you."
I was a little puzzled and he picked up on it quickly.
"If you're really going to buy what you can afford to keep, I have a few really nice things you'd like. I'm not interested in selling them to someone who is gong to try to sell them to someone else for $5. or $10. more. I'll bring the 36-S. Study up and see if you can find a really good Standing Lib' to start that part of your collection."
That was either May or June of 1990, and that weekend I bought my first SLQ. I paid the princely sum of $72. for it. I still have that coin in fact. I brought it over and showed it to him, and we discussed it merits. I was so jazzed that I found a good coin that I was going to keep I almost had forgot the Walker, but, true to his word, he pulled a gorgeous 36-S in what was easily 58 from a box behind the table and sold me that at a very favorable price.
I had PCGS grade the raw SLQ's in 2004, and as I always suspected, that one came back as a 55. Unfortunately all the Walkers (including the beautiful 36-S he sold me) were stolen about 10 years ago, or I'd still have it too.
Anyway, that started a new type of passion for me in collecting. One where I would try to think about what I wanted, and then go see if I could find it. Maybe not an exact date or mint, but if I decided I wanted a 20's mint-marked SLQ in Ch AU, or a tougher Barber Dime in Ch AU, or a War Nickel in Gem, I tried my best to find something that matched that. I always had a list of 4 to 7 or so things. Not too many, but not so few I was only looking for one thing.
That led me forward for several years until work and kids and family got me to slow down for a while (I've had several of those phases). During that time, among other things, I found almost a dozen SLQ's, another dozen better Walkers and at least a half roll of Choice/Gem Mercury Dimes. I know I flipped a few things too when the opportunity presented itself, but generally I sold less and less during that time, and tried to focus on building my collection more and more, which gave me great satisfaction.
Here's that first SLQ, which I found an old picture of, and is still part of my Registry set;
“We are only their care-takers,” he posed, “if we take good care of them, then centuries from now they may still be here … ”
Todd - BHNC #242
After @SummerDays3104 mentioned the seller's reputation I went and read his (amusing) negative feedback. My favorite was from someone who purported to have purchased 60 coins over six weeks and very happy with them, but wasn't happy with the seller's (who has six figure feedback) communication so he had to leave negative feedback for two.
Based on that and what the OP has said here, I assume he made some noises about being reluctant to pay at which point the seller blocked him and moved on at which point it became impossible for the purchase to complete.