@291fifth said:
There are no bargains in US coins.
Not true… it’s rare, but it happens
Usually by very experienced numismatists with very good grading skills. This coin looks very much so AU to me, about 55.
With all due respect, I’d slow down a bit and take some time to learn. If you’re looking for high grade Buffs, buy a few graded examples. I try to use the rule that you shouldn’t look for a deal until you can write a thousand word article on the coin you’re trying to get a deal on that is well researched and backed with examples currently in existence. It seems to work for me.
Eek, they labeled it as unc… how do I tell the difference between unc and au when it comes to buffs?
High point wear. Look at the horn and look at the hip. Pictures can deceive, but it appears to have evidence of wear in both places.
Ooh, ok… I’ll pass then on this one. I was skeptical about this seller anyways, bc from what I’ve read, he has a sketchy past, and I’m not going to trust what his listings say. Especially if he marked this as “high grade” when it’s AU. Thanks guys, I’m looking for high grade buffs, and I thought I got a deal of a lifetime on this
So you bid on this coin and are now refusing to complete the deal. That's considered breaking a contract in some states. At the very least, it is poor form.
Interesting that you wonder about pawn shops and then go buy from another one. Then you buy from a dealer you know is sketchy without researching the nickel. The high points definitely shows wear.
I must say I’m finding your method of learning fascinating. Almost like playing with matches when you don’t understand them very well.
If you are enjoying yourself then carry on. If not, perhaps following your intuition is not the best method. Either way not much money and on some things I just need to see for myself.
Carry on young numismatist. I enjoy your adventures as I’ve had a few that were similar 😁
Eek, they labeled it as unc… how do I tell the difference between unc and au when it comes to buffs?
EEK, you read it as unc .... they labeled it as high grade
when you buy something at auction, it is a bad policy to back out without solid reason ... eBay is not an approval service
55 is alot higher than 8
the rim edges look nice, so still could be BU
@Jzyskowski1 said:
Interesting that you wonder about pawn shops and then go buy from another one. Then you buy from a dealer you know is sketchy without researching the nickel. The high points definitely shows wear.
I must say I’m finding your method of learning fascinating. Almost like playing with matches when you don’t understand them very well.
If you are enjoying yourself then carry on. If not, perhaps following your intuition is not the best method. Either way not much money and on some things I just need to see for myself.
Carry on young numismatist. I enjoy your adventures as I’ve had a few that were similar 😁
Respectfully, judge for yourself. I don't think the dealer is in the wrong.
So, you paid $10.94 for an obviously circulated, common date Buffalo nickel that was listed as "high grade", which an AU is for this series. I might be wrong, but it seems to me that you are following the same path that you followed in the last two user name accounts you had on these boards.
At some point you have to take it upon yourself and either learn what you are doing or simply stop doing it. It's that simple.
It's a decent buff and I think you got what you bid on. What do you mean you will pass on this one if you have already bid and won? For $10 I would just toss it in the misc bin and move on. That said, it is a decent looking buff and not a loss. I wouldn't waste anyone's time returning this one. But that said, I have bigger coins in my misc bin where I messed up misinterpreting photos and such. A bid is a bid. Some things aren't worth tarnishing honor and reputation on. We call it... tuition.
@TomB said:
So, you paid $10.94 for an obviously circulated, common date Buffalo nickel that was listed as "high grade", which an AU is for this series. I might be wrong, but it seems to me that you are following the same path that you followed in the last two user name accounts you had on these boards.
At some point you have to take it upon yourself and either learn what you are doing or simply stop doing it. It's that simple.
You say “obviously circulated” as if I’m knowledgeable in buffalo nickels. Dude, you seem like a jerk, based on your many comments on my posts and I’m getting tired of it. People like you are why nobody wants to learn about coins, and is actually the reason I stopped posting on these boards for a long time. Do me a favor and either, stop talking down on me, and help me respectfully or, I can just block you and I can just as easily get help from the people who are actually kind. I’m a learning collector, and as I’m asking questions, I’m learning. That’s why I’m posting. Being a complete jerk to me, a novice collector, isn’t helping.
YN to YN, this post isn’t doing anything but hurting you.
A reminder - you were looking for a deal. Deals on coins require an immense amount of knowledge. You stated yourself you don’t know much, if anything, about Buffalo nickels.
All said and done, you can’t rely on the boards to be your education. Just take some time and research what you’re buying. Research, then buy and ask for opinions. Not the other way around.
Sometimes, the truth stings. You don’t learn if you don’t hear the truth. @TomB is one of the best resources this board has. Don’t dismiss his advice.
@SummerDays3104 said:
Dude, you seem like a jerk, based on your many comments on my posts and I’m getting tired of it. People like you are why nobody wants to learn about coins, and is actually the reason I stopped posting on these boards for a long time.
Nobody wants to learn about coins? Quit extrapolating.
@TomB said:
So, you paid $10.94 for an obviously circulated, common date Buffalo nickel that was listed as "high grade", which an AU is for this series. I might be wrong, but it seems to me that you are following the same path that you followed in the last two user name accounts you had on these boards.
At some point you have to take it upon yourself and either learn what you are doing or simply stop doing it. It's that simple.
You say “obviously circulated” as if I’m knowledgeable in buffalo nickels. Dude, you seem like a jerk, based on your many comments on my posts and I’m getting tired of it. People like you are why nobody wants to learn about coins, and is actually the reason I stopped posting on these boards for a long time. Do me a favor and either, stop talking down on me, and help me respectfully or, I can just block you and I can just as easily get help from the people who are actually kind. I’m a learning collector, and as I’m asking questions, I’m learning. That’s why I’m posting. Being a complete jerk to me, a novice collector, isn’t helping.
I'm surprised you would consider yourself a novice collector after being on these boards under various user names for a number of years and going through the same type of threads and posts over and over. If you want knowledge prior to bidding you can buy a RedBook or the ANA Grading Standards for United States Coins to help with grading (either might cost about $15 or so, I haven't looked lately) or you can go to some chain bookstores and browse these titles for free. Alternatively, you can simply use the PCGS Photograde Online tutorial that PCGS offers, which is not only free but is also on your phone, tablet, desktop or whatever you use to access the net. Heck, if you really want to get into a series there are myriad specialist books that will go into detail about strike characteristics and other things that can influence grading.
You are repeating the same mistakes you made previously and no one is really helping you if they simply say "as long as you're having fun" when your responses are more in the vein of "I didn't know..." or "I thought high grade meant mint state..." or "I need help immediately about this purchase..." or "thanks for the information and I'll just cancel the sale..." or something similar. You don't have to know everything, but if you can at least help yourself with more of the basics then you won't lose small chunks of valuable funds in shipping or waste the time of sellers.
You might think I'm a jerk, but I'll let my reputation on the boards and in person at shows speak for itself. As for your threads, if you post and I can add something to it then don't be shocked if I do. Ignore me at your own financial peril.
@TomB said:
So, you paid $10.94 for an obviously circulated, common date Buffalo nickel that was listed as "high grade", which an AU is for this series. I might be wrong, but it seems to me that you are following the same path that you followed in the last two user name accounts you had on these boards.
At some point you have to take it upon yourself and either learn what you are doing or simply stop doing it. It's that simple.
You say “obviously circulated” as if I’m knowledgeable in buffalo nickels. Dude, you seem like a jerk, based on your many comments on my posts and I’m getting tired of it. People like you are why nobody wants to learn about coins, and is actually the reason I stopped posting on these boards for a long time. Do me a favor and either, stop talking down on me, and help me respectfully or, I can just block you and I can just as easily get help from the people who are actually kind. I’m a learning collector, and as I’m asking questions, I’m learning. That’s why I’m posting. Being a complete jerk to me, a novice collector, isn’t helping.
YN to YN, this post isn’t doing anything but hurting you.
A reminder - you were looking for a deal. Deals on coins require an immense amount of knowledge. You stated yourself you don’t know much, if anything, about Buffalo nickels.
All said and done, you can’t rely on the boards to be your education. Just take some time and research what you’re buying. Research, then buy and ask for opinions. Not the other way around.
Sometimes, the truth stings. You don’t learn if you don’t hear the truth. @TomB is one of the best resources this board has. Don’t dismiss his advice.
I’m not dismissing his advice. The way he writes, he means it with no respect and it’s tiring. Like I said, there’s a reason I stopped posting and coming to this board for a while. Because everyone here seems to have little respect for anyone else, and it’s disgusting. I would understand it, if he or anyone who has commented on this post was respectful, but about 50% of them haven’t, and have been rude about it.
Look at it from their point of view. You’ve posted many threads in the past few days about coins you bought or consider buying and whether or not you got a deal.
It didn’t appear to me, or to seemingly a lot of members, that you had any desire to do research of your own or take the advice of many others to consider only buying certified coins, and to avoid trying to make any steals at all. This can seem like you are wasting the time and opinions of the posters here. After a few threads, tempers run thin.
One could also conclude that if you wouldn’t take the advice before, perhaps putting a bit of intensity on the advice would encourage you to take it.
Again, slow down. Many collectors here look at hundreds, sometimes thousands of a particular coin before they decide to buy one. Don’t jump on everything you see.
Follow through with your purchase and pay for the coin, it’s 10 bucks and is a rather cheap “tuition” if you ask me.
I was in your shoes not long ago, buying a bunch of crap on eBay. Luckily, I was buying graded coins , and although they were very expensive, I managed to liquidate them without losing money.
Start listening to the forum members here, and heed their advice. These guys know what they’re talking about, and have handled more coins in their lifetime than you or I could imagine. Once I slowed down and learned about the series I wanted to collect, the hobby has been much more enjoyable.
Pay for the coin and enjoy for what it is…a nice looking BUFFALO…next time ask your question BEFORE the auction ends…
Learn to be a nicer person please…
@TomB said:
So, you paid $10.94 for an obviously circulated, common date Buffalo nickel that was listed as "high grade", which an AU is for this series. I might be wrong, but it seems to me that you are following the same path that you followed in the last two user name accounts you had on these boards.
At some point you have to take it upon yourself and either learn what you are doing or simply stop doing it. It's that simple.
You say “obviously circulated” as if I’m knowledgeable in buffalo nickels. Dude, you seem like a jerk, based on your many comments on my posts and I’m getting tired of it. People like you are why nobody wants to learn about coins, and is actually the reason I stopped posting on these boards for a long time. Do me a favor and either, stop talking down on me, and help me respectfully or, I can just block you and I can just as easily get help from the people who are actually kind. I’m a learning collector, and as I’m asking questions, I’m learning. That’s why I’m posting. Being a complete jerk to me, a novice collector, isn’t helping.
I'm surprised you would consider yourself a novice collector after being on these boards under various user names for a number of years and going through the same type of threads and posts over and over. If you want knowledge prior to bidding you can buy a RedBook or the ANA Grading Standards for United States Coins to help with grading (either might cost about $15 or so, I haven't looked lately) or you can go to some chain bookstores and browse these titles for free. Alternatively, you can simply use the PCGS Photograde Online tutorial that PCGS offers, which is not only free but is also on your phone, tablet, desktop or whatever you use to access the net. Heck, if you really want to get into a series there are myriad specialist books that will go into detail about strike characteristics and other things that can influence grading.
You are repeating the same mistakes you made previously and no one is really helping you if they simply say "as long as you're having fun" when your responses are more in the vein of "I didn't know..." or "I thought high grade meant mint state..." or "I need help immediately about this purchase..." or "thanks for the information and I'll just cancel the sale..." or something similar. You don't have to know everything, but if you can at least help yourself with more of the basics then you won't lose small chunks of valuable funds in shipping or waste the time of sellers.
You might think I'm a jerk, but I'll let my reputation on the boards and in person at shows speak for itself. As for your threads, if you post and I can add something to it then don't be shocked if I do. Ignore me at your own financial peril.
I’m not asking for people to answer me the way I want. I’m asking for respect when receiving those answers, and as I’ve said 3 times already, half the comments, the ones that have been somewhat helpful, have been nothing but disrespectful. Telling me to “check my behavior” or “this is OBVIOUSLY this”. Like, how am I supposed to know this?
And yes, I do consider myself a novice collector, considering I’ve been collecting for a whole of 4 years, don’t constantly collect, don’t have a large collection, and don’t have a vast knowledge of coins.
Where did I ever tell you to check your behavior? I believe you may have me confused with any of a number of other forum members for that comment.
@TomB said:
So, you paid $10.94 for an obviously circulated, common date Buffalo nickel that was listed as "high grade", which an AU is for this series. I might be wrong, but it seems to me that you are following the same path that you followed in the last two user name accounts you had on these boards.
At some point you have to take it upon yourself and either learn what you are doing or simply stop doing it. It's that simple.
You say “obviously circulated” as if I’m knowledgeable in buffalo nickels. Dude, you seem like a jerk, based on your many comments on my posts and I’m getting tired of it. People like you are why nobody wants to learn about coins, and is actually the reason I stopped posting on these boards for a long time. Do me a favor and either, stop talking down on me, and help me respectfully or, I can just block you and I can just as easily get help from the people who are actually kind. I’m a learning collector, and as I’m asking questions, I’m learning. That’s why I’m posting. Being a complete jerk to me, a novice collector, isn’t helping.
I'm surprised you would consider yourself a novice collector after being on these boards under various user names for a number of years and going through the same type of threads and posts over and over. If you want knowledge prior to bidding you can buy a RedBook or the ANA Grading Standards for United States Coins to help with grading (either might cost about $15 or so, I haven't looked lately) or you can go to some chain bookstores and browse these titles for free. Alternatively, you can simply use the PCGS Photograde Online tutorial that PCGS offers, which is not only free but is also on your phone, tablet, desktop or whatever you use to access the net. Heck, if you really want to get into a series there are myriad specialist books that will go into detail about strike characteristics and other things that can influence grading.
You are repeating the same mistakes you made previously and no one is really helping you if they simply say "as long as you're having fun" when your responses are more in the vein of "I didn't know..." or "I thought high grade meant mint state..." or "I need help immediately about this purchase..." or "thanks for the information and I'll just cancel the sale..." or something similar. You don't have to know everything, but if you can at least help yourself with more of the basics then you won't lose small chunks of valuable funds in shipping or waste the time of sellers.
You might think I'm a jerk, but I'll let my reputation on the boards and in person at shows speak for itself. As for your threads, if you post and I can add something to it then don't be shocked if I do. Ignore me at your own financial peril.
I’m not asking for people to answer me the way I want. I’m asking for respect when receiving those answers, and as I’ve said 3 times already, half the comments, the ones that have been somewhat helpful, have been nothing but disrespectful. Telling me to “check my behavior” or “this is OBVIOUSLY this”. Like, how am I supposed to know this?
And yes, I do consider myself a novice collector, considering I’ve been collecting for a whole of 4 years, don’t constantly collect, don’t have a large collection, and don’t have a vast knowledge of coins.
Where did I ever tell you to check your behavior? I believe you may have me confused with any of a number of other forum members for that comment.
No, I was talking about a different member… I was including everything that has been said so far in this thread
That makes sense. Since you had included that part after a quote from me I had thought it was attributed to/directed at one of my posts.
@TomB said:
So, you paid $10.94 for an obviously circulated, common date Buffalo nickel that was listed as "high grade", which an AU is for this series. I might be wrong, but it seems to me that you are following the same path that you followed in the last two user name accounts you had on these boards.
At some point you have to take it upon yourself and either learn what you are doing or simply stop doing it. It's that simple.
You say “obviously circulated” as if I’m knowledgeable in buffalo nickels. Dude, you seem like a jerk, based on your many comments on my posts and I’m getting tired of it. People like you are why nobody wants to learn about coins, and is actually the reason I stopped posting on these boards for a long time. Do me a favor and either, stop talking down on me, and help me respectfully or, I can just block you and I can just as easily get help from the people who are actually kind. I’m a learning collector, and as I’m asking questions, I’m learning. That’s why I’m posting. Being a complete jerk to me, a novice collector, isn’t helping.
YN to YN, this post isn’t doing anything but hurting you.
A reminder - you were looking for a deal. Deals on coins require an immense amount of knowledge. You stated yourself you don’t know much, if anything, about Buffalo nickels.
All said and done, you can’t rely on the boards to be your education. Just take some time and research what you’re buying. Research, then buy and ask for opinions. Not the other way around.
Sometimes, the truth stings. You don’t learn if you don’t hear the truth. @TomB is one of the best resources this board has. Don’t dismiss his advice.
I’m not dismissing his advice. The way he writes, he means it with no respect and it’s tiring. Like I said, there’s a reason I stopped posting and coming to this board for a while. Because everyone here seems to have little respect for anyone else, and it’s disgusting. I would understand it, if he or anyone who has commented on this post was respectful, but about 50% of them haven’t, and have been rude about it.
Look at it from their point of view. You’ve posted many threads in the past few days about coins you bought or consider buying and whether or not you got a deal.
It didn’t appear to me, or to seemingly a lot of members, that you had any desire to do research of your own or take the advice of many others to consider only buying certified coins, and to avoid trying to make any steals at all. This can seem like you are wasting the time and opinions of the posters here. After a few threads, tempers run thin.
One could also conclude that if you wouldn’t take the advice before, perhaps putting a bit of intensity on the advice would encourage you to take it.
Again, slow down. Many collectors here look at hundreds, sometimes thousands of a particular coin before they decide to buy one. Don’t jump on everything you see.
Actually believe it or not, I do do my research before posting a coin here. My problem is, I have trouble telling the difference between grades. I can usually tell when a coin has been cleaned, but grades are my issue, especially when it comes to coins I’m not entirely knowledgeable about. Like buffalo nickels and Morgan Dollars. Is it really too much to ask for the opinion of experts? Is that NOT what they’re here for? Isn’t that why this forum exists?
And to add, not once did I see ANYONE mention buying certified coins. I’m not saying nobody did, but I certainly didn’t see anyone say so. If so, I would’ve taken that advice. And now that you say it, I will.
Ok. I'll add more advice.
1) Only buy certified coins for the time being.
2) Stop looking for deals.
3) ONLY buy what you know well. If you can't grade it, you shouldn't be buying it.
Let us help you then. What do you specialize in? I'll give you an example - I believe it is quite clear based on my posts that I work almost exclusively in the 1936-42 proofs realm. I rarely buy a coin outside of that realm, because I know it well (or I think so). Where do you want to spend your time and energy?
@TomB said:
So, you paid $10.94 for an obviously circulated, common date Buffalo nickel that was listed as "high grade", which an AU is for this series. I might be wrong, but it seems to me that you are following the same path that you followed in the last two user name accounts you had on these boards.
At some point you have to take it upon yourself and either learn what you are doing or simply stop doing it. It's that simple.
You say “obviously circulated” as if I’m knowledgeable in buffalo nickels. Dude, you seem like a jerk, based on your many comments on my posts and I’m getting tired of it. People like you are why nobody wants to learn about coins, and is actually the reason I stopped posting on these boards for a long time. Do me a favor and either, stop talking down on me, and help me respectfully or, I can just block you and I can just as easily get help from the people who are actually kind. I’m a learning collector, and as I’m asking questions, I’m learning. That’s why I’m posting. Being a complete jerk to me, a novice collector, isn’t helping.
>
Normally I steer clear of these, mostly because I don't have the energy, and I can be a bit of an a**.
There is an old adage that may be apt for you to consider;
How do you make a million dollars in Numismatics? Start with two million.
You come and post thinking you scored, or wanting to know if you scored, or trying to find a score. Without the knowledge, you are not the shark, you are the bait. Chum.
I know what it feels like to be that excited. I remember it. Many of us do. But you will do well to slow down, listen more, and try to learn. Look at a lot of coins, in hand, and try to understand what you are seeing in luster and surface quality. Get a grading guide and maybe a few other books and use the internet, and try and learn how to grade and understand surfaces. Ask questions about that type of thing and people here are almost sure to help.
One of my newer friends has a thing he does which I like (and remember others doing from days past). You hand him the slab upside down ... he thumbs the grade so he can't see it, and examines the coin. He tells you his thoughts on the grade, surfaces, color and other aspects before looking ... and for the coins he collects, most consider him world-class. That kind of knowledge and skill takes time, but pays dividends in spades.
The best advice I was every given a few years after I started was to collect what I liked and could afford, and try to make the best purchases I could with the knowledge I gained. At that point, my collection was somewhat of a hodge-podge, and I was always chasing after what I thought were deals ... although most of what I had was not really a deal. That was 33 years ago.
If you can learn to see the value in the coins you love, in the grades you understand and within the budget you can afford, Numismatics will become MUCH more enjoyable, and you won't need to ask ... you'll know when a deal shows up. And over time, I would image you will be rewarded in many ways.
As far as your Buffalo goes, if you knew how to grade you would know it's a AU55 at best. Most books and primers will tell you where to look for the high-point wear. It may be a little lack-luster, but that is difficult from almost ANY image. So possibly a low-end 55, or maybe high-end ... or maybe even a (gasp!) 53. My take is, if you bid and won, complete your deal, and only return if it was not as presented and you can't justify keeping it for your collection. You are COLLECTING, right?
You're already coming off as a petulant adolescent ... and it appears this isn't your first run at it. Sometimes the problem is indeed the man in the mirror.
Also, my friend @TomB is hardly a jerk ... in fact a few he is one of a few that does really try to help. But you need to learn to listen too.
“We are only their care-takers,” he posed, “if we take good care of them, then centuries from now they may still be here … ”
@TomB said:
So, you paid $10.94 for an obviously circulated, common date Buffalo nickel that was listed as "high grade", which an AU is for this series. I might be wrong, but it seems to me that you are following the same path that you followed in the last two user name accounts you had on these boards.
At some point you have to take it upon yourself and either learn what you are doing or simply stop doing it. It's that simple.
You say “obviously circulated” as if I’m knowledgeable in buffalo nickels. Dude, you seem like a jerk, based on your many comments on my posts and I’m getting tired of it. People like you are why nobody wants to learn about coins, and is actually the reason I stopped posting on these boards for a long time. Do me a favor and either, stop talking down on me, and help me respectfully or, I can just block you and I can just as easily get help from the people who are actually kind. I’m a learning collector, and as I’m asking questions, I’m learning. That’s why I’m posting. Being a complete jerk to me, a novice collector, isn’t helping.
YN to YN, this post isn’t doing anything but hurting you.
A reminder - you were looking for a deal. Deals on coins require an immense amount of knowledge. You stated yourself you don’t know much, if anything, about Buffalo nickels.
All said and done, you can’t rely on the boards to be your education. Just take some time and research what you’re buying. Research, then buy and ask for opinions. Not the other way around.
Sometimes, the truth stings. You don’t learn if you don’t hear the truth. @TomB is one of the best resources this board has. Don’t dismiss his advice.
I’m not dismissing his advice. The way he writes, he means it with no respect and it’s tiring. Like I said, there’s a reason I stopped posting and coming to this board for a while. Because everyone here seems to have little respect for anyone else, and it’s disgusting. I would understand it, if he or anyone who has commented on this post was respectful, but about 50% of them haven’t, and have been rude about it.
Look at it from their point of view. You’ve posted many threads in the past few days about coins you bought or consider buying and whether or not you got a deal.
It didn’t appear to me, or to seemingly a lot of members, that you had any desire to do research of your own or take the advice of many others to consider only buying certified coins, and to avoid trying to make any steals at all. This can seem like you are wasting the time and opinions of the posters here. After a few threads, tempers run thin.
One could also conclude that if you wouldn’t take the advice before, perhaps putting a bit of intensity on the advice would encourage you to take it.
Again, slow down. Many collectors here look at hundreds, sometimes thousands of a particular coin before they decide to buy one. Don’t jump on everything you see.
Actually believe it or not, I do do my research before posting a coin here. My problem is, I have trouble telling the difference between grades. I can usually tell when a coin has been cleaned, but grades are my issue, especially when it comes to coins I’m not entirely knowledgeable about. Like buffalo nickels and Morgan Dollars. Is it really too much to ask for the opinion of experts? Is that NOT what they’re here for? Isn’t that why this forum exists?
And to add, not once did I see ANYONE mention buying certified coins. I’m not saying nobody did, but I certainly didn’t see anyone say so. If so, I would’ve taken that advice. And now that you say it, I will.
Ok. I'll add more advice.
1) Only buy certified coins for the time being.
2) Stop looking for deals.
3) ONLY buy what you know well. If you can't grade it, you shouldn't be buying it.
Let us help you then. What do you specialize in? I'll give you an example - I believe it is quite clear based on my posts that I work almost exclusively in the 1936-42 proofs realm. I rarely buy a coin outside of that realm, because I know it well (or I think so). Where do you want to spend your time and energy?
Well, I like Jefferson nickels, and I know them really well, but I want to move on to buffalo nickels and silver dollars now that I have the money. I specifically want Morgan’s and Peace, but I’m decently knowledgeable on peace’s. So Morgan’s and buffalos are what I need help in
I'd strongly suggest choosing one series. Dabbling in more than one will likely be disastrous for you.
Do some research on your top two choices, and then decide based on which series has the best appeal to you. Then do more research. Look at coins on the internet (CoinFacts, auctions). Research them. Maybe buy a coin. Research that coin. Look at more CoinFacts coins and research them. Maybe buy a coin. See how this goes?
If you wanted an uncirculated example, it's stated by the seller that this one is not. You'll save yourself some trouble if you read through the entire listing before bidding. After that, if you still have questions, you can always ask the seller.
@TomB said:
So, you paid $10.94 for an obviously circulated, common date Buffalo nickel that was listed as "high grade", which an AU is for this series. I might be wrong, but it seems to me that you are following the same path that you followed in the last two user name accounts you had on these boards.
At some point you have to take it upon yourself and either learn what you are doing or simply stop doing it. It's that simple.
You say “obviously circulated” as if I’m knowledgeable in buffalo nickels. Dude, you seem like a jerk, based on your many comments on my posts and I’m getting tired of it. People like you are why nobody wants to learn about coins, and is actually the reason I stopped posting on these boards for a long time. Do me a favor and either, stop talking down on me, and help me respectfully or, I can just block you and I can just as easily get help from the people who are actually kind. I’m a learning collector, and as I’m asking questions, I’m learning. That’s why I’m posting. Being a complete jerk to me, a novice collector, isn’t helping.
Some people take everything personally and refuse to listen and learn. Speaking for myself, if TomB were to scold my choice of coins, I'd pay very careful attention to what he's saying.
If you can, keep the 1936 nickel. It looks fine and it'll give you an example of an AU Buffalo nickel that you can study. Then buy a graded MS 62-63 for comparison for $30-40. I'd also strike up a relationship with a friendly, patient local dealer if you can find one, and join a coin club to get useful feedback in person. That way you'll be less likely to fly off the handle when receiving sound advice.
Try to read this post slowly, or at least don't read it with an agitated mind.
I've gone through your seven US coin forum threads from the month of November and while I do see the occasional snarky comment about a purchase or potential purchase or the way that you find yourself in apparently the same position repeatedly, for the most part I have read really insightful, careful comments by folks who are looking out for your best interests and who are giving away their own time and expertise in an attempt to help you and help others who read your threads. Some of these folks are younger and/or newer collectors, some are specialists or long-term knowledgeable collectors and others are world class dealers who receive no direct gain in attempting to help you or anyone else on these boards.
I have also counted at least five instances (posts) where someone wrote that you may want to consider only buying coins certified by PCGS or another reputable TPG given the nature and frequency of your comments. These posts weren't always direct advice such as "buy only PCGS certified coins..." but instead some were more nuanced with "at this time in your experience you may be better off buying coins certified by a reputable TPG until you can comfortably learn to grade and/or spot surface issues...". Additionally, there have been multiple bits of advice toward you about buying or borrowing books to learn more prior to finding yourself in a buying situation and/or to use the online resources that are available for free for all of us.
You may have missed these posts since you have a way of posting that can invite a high velocity of responses. By that I mean you appear to want to make big scores or you may state you want help but then don't appear to be receptive to the help offered. Those types of comments generally get push-back from the folks you are asking to help you. What I have not seen in these seven threads is any amount of disrespect toward you that is more than just the occasional smacking of one's own proverbial forehead when you lead a horse to water...
It may be impossible for you to realize it, but you are not being ganged up in these threads. Folks are reaching out, but you aren't ready to take the help. Numismatics might not be the hobby you were meant to enjoy, but good luck regardless.
Let me shed some light on this one fact that should be abundantly clear for anyone who posts here: Not one forum member here gets paid to post replies in the threads here. None of these people must answer any of the questions that we get to ask.
Some of the forum members here have been collecting and grading coins twice as long as I’ve been alive. Thousands upon thousands of hours reading and studying and looking at coins.
I know that sometimes it may seem like some replies are brash and abrasive, but you need to have a little bit thicker skin to participate in an online forum. Yea, sometimes some people can be rude on here, but overall there is a lot of valuable knowledge freely given out to anyone who asks. With that being said, you can’t expect everyone here to compose a reply as if they were talking to their young granddaughter.
I’m pretty sure that @TomB made similar comments on my first posts, and perhaps I felt somewhat like you did, but over time I came to have great respect for him, and many of the other members that contribute here. I am actually grateful when my questions are inquiries are thoroughly addressed the way yours have been.
@TomB said:
Numismatics might not be the hobby you were meant to enjoy, but good luck regardless.
That. That is the number one thing I hate hearing. I’m not disregarding everything else you’ve said. I enjoy the coin part of it. What I don’t enjoy are the people. I’m going to take a break from posting and all forums in general. If I truly need help on something that I cannot figure out for myself in anyway, only then will I post. I’m not saying this as a way in my own mind to “hurt anyone” as a child might, but I’m doing it for my own good.
Do what is in your best long-term interests and realize that the coins will always be here whenever you want to jump into the hobby. Good luck.
SummerDays3104
Posts: 499 ✭✭✭✭
Comments
That's full retail for an AU coin. It's a fair price.
yes, definitely au to me
Tom
I would have took that deal. Nice one.
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High point wear. Look at the horn and look at the hip. Pictures can deceive, but it appears to have evidence of wear in both places.
There are no bargains in US coins.
Usually by very experienced numismatists with very good grading skills. This coin looks very much so AU to me, about 55.
With all due respect, I’d slow down a bit and take some time to learn. If you’re looking for high grade Buffs, buy a few graded examples. I try to use the rule that you shouldn’t look for a deal until you can write a thousand word article on the coin you’re trying to get a deal on that is well researched and backed with examples currently in existence. It seems to work for me.
Coin Photographer.
So you bid on this coin and are now refusing to complete the deal. That's considered breaking a contract in some states. At the very least, it is poor form.
Interesting that you wonder about pawn shops and then go buy from another one. Then you buy from a dealer you know is sketchy without researching the nickel. The high points definitely shows wear.
I must say I’m finding your method of learning fascinating. Almost like playing with matches when you don’t understand them very well.
If you are enjoying yourself then carry on. If not, perhaps following your intuition is not the best method. Either way not much money and on some things I just need to see for myself.
Carry on young numismatist. I enjoy your adventures as I’ve had a few that were similar 😁
🎶 shout shout, let it all out 🎶
EEK, you read it as unc .... they labeled it as high grade
when you buy something at auction, it is a bad policy to back out without solid reason ... eBay is not an approval service
55 is alot higher than 8
the rim edges look nice, so still could be BU
AU is a high grade. WTAF.
Now you're going to renege on a trivial deal because why??
This has NOTHING to do with being a neophyte. It is about taking responsibility for your own behavior.
They didn't label it "unc". They called it high grade. AU is a high grade.
Respectfully, judge for yourself. I don't think the dealer is in the wrong.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/394350913497?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=sIdSlFtoQtK&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=I7BWTu72SVS&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
So, you paid $10.94 for an obviously circulated, common date Buffalo nickel that was listed as "high grade", which an AU is for this series. I might be wrong, but it seems to me that you are following the same path that you followed in the last two user name accounts you had on these boards.
At some point you have to take it upon yourself and either learn what you are doing or simply stop doing it. It's that simple.
In honor of the memory of Cpl. Michael E. Thompson
It's a decent buff and I think you got what you bid on. What do you mean you will pass on this one if you have already bid and won? For $10 I would just toss it in the misc bin and move on. That said, it is a decent looking buff and not a loss. I wouldn't waste anyone's time returning this one. But that said, I have bigger coins in my misc bin where I messed up misinterpreting photos and such. A bid is a bid. Some things aren't worth tarnishing honor and reputation on. We call it... tuition.
Thats a fair price for a buffalo with one eye
YN to YN, this post isn’t doing anything but hurting you.
A reminder - you were looking for a deal. Deals on coins require an immense amount of knowledge. You stated yourself you don’t know much, if anything, about Buffalo nickels.
All said and done, you can’t rely on the boards to be your education. Just take some time and research what you’re buying. Research, then buy and ask for opinions. Not the other way around.
Sometimes, the truth stings. You don’t learn if you don’t hear the truth. @TomB is one of the best resources this board has. Don’t dismiss his advice.
Coin Photographer.
Nobody wants to learn about coins? Quit extrapolating.
You need to read more and post less. Much less.
I'm surprised you would consider yourself a novice collector after being on these boards under various user names for a number of years and going through the same type of threads and posts over and over. If you want knowledge prior to bidding you can buy a RedBook or the ANA Grading Standards for United States Coins to help with grading (either might cost about $15 or so, I haven't looked lately) or you can go to some chain bookstores and browse these titles for free. Alternatively, you can simply use the PCGS Photograde Online tutorial that PCGS offers, which is not only free but is also on your phone, tablet, desktop or whatever you use to access the net. Heck, if you really want to get into a series there are myriad specialist books that will go into detail about strike characteristics and other things that can influence grading.
You are repeating the same mistakes you made previously and no one is really helping you if they simply say "as long as you're having fun" when your responses are more in the vein of "I didn't know..." or "I thought high grade meant mint state..." or "I need help immediately about this purchase..." or "thanks for the information and I'll just cancel the sale..." or something similar. You don't have to know everything, but if you can at least help yourself with more of the basics then you won't lose small chunks of valuable funds in shipping or waste the time of sellers.
You might think I'm a jerk, but I'll let my reputation on the boards and in person at shows speak for itself. As for your threads, if you post and I can add something to it then don't be shocked if I do. Ignore me at your own financial peril.
In honor of the memory of Cpl. Michael E. Thompson
Like much of what you type, this is the exact opposite of the truth.
Your drama queen act gets old fast.
Look at it from their point of view. You’ve posted many threads in the past few days about coins you bought or consider buying and whether or not you got a deal.
It didn’t appear to me, or to seemingly a lot of members, that you had any desire to do research of your own or take the advice of many others to consider only buying certified coins, and to avoid trying to make any steals at all. This can seem like you are wasting the time and opinions of the posters here. After a few threads, tempers run thin.
One could also conclude that if you wouldn’t take the advice before, perhaps putting a bit of intensity on the advice would encourage you to take it.
Again, slow down. Many collectors here look at hundreds, sometimes thousands of a particular coin before they decide to buy one. Don’t jump on everything you see.
Coin Photographer.
Follow through with your purchase and pay for the coin, it’s 10 bucks and is a rather cheap “tuition” if you ask me.
I was in your shoes not long ago, buying a bunch of crap on eBay. Luckily, I was buying graded coins , and although they were very expensive, I managed to liquidate them without losing money.
Start listening to the forum members here, and heed their advice. These guys know what they’re talking about, and have handled more coins in their lifetime than you or I could imagine. Once I slowed down and learned about the series I wanted to collect, the hobby has been much more enjoyable.
Founder- Peak Rarities
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Pay for the coin and enjoy for what it is…a nice looking BUFFALO…next time ask your question BEFORE the auction ends…
Learn to be a nicer person please…
Where did I ever tell you to check your behavior? I believe you may have me confused with any of a number of other forum members for that comment.
In honor of the memory of Cpl. Michael E. Thompson
That makes sense. Since you had included that part after a quote from me I had thought it was attributed to/directed at one of my posts.
In honor of the memory of Cpl. Michael E. Thompson
Ok. I'll add more advice.
1) Only buy certified coins for the time being.
2) Stop looking for deals.
3) ONLY buy what you know well. If you can't grade it, you shouldn't be buying it.
Let us help you then. What do you specialize in? I'll give you an example - I believe it is quite clear based on my posts that I work almost exclusively in the 1936-42 proofs realm. I rarely buy a coin outside of that realm, because I know it well (or I think so). Where do you want to spend your time and energy?
Coin Photographer.
>
Normally I steer clear of these, mostly because I don't have the energy, and I can be a bit of an a**.
There is an old adage that may be apt for you to consider;
How do you make a million dollars in Numismatics? Start with two million.
You come and post thinking you scored, or wanting to know if you scored, or trying to find a score. Without the knowledge, you are not the shark, you are the bait. Chum.
I know what it feels like to be that excited. I remember it. Many of us do. But you will do well to slow down, listen more, and try to learn. Look at a lot of coins, in hand, and try to understand what you are seeing in luster and surface quality. Get a grading guide and maybe a few other books and use the internet, and try and learn how to grade and understand surfaces. Ask questions about that type of thing and people here are almost sure to help.
One of my newer friends has a thing he does which I like (and remember others doing from days past). You hand him the slab upside down ... he thumbs the grade so he can't see it, and examines the coin. He tells you his thoughts on the grade, surfaces, color and other aspects before looking ... and for the coins he collects, most consider him world-class. That kind of knowledge and skill takes time, but pays dividends in spades.
The best advice I was every given a few years after I started was to collect what I liked and could afford, and try to make the best purchases I could with the knowledge I gained. At that point, my collection was somewhat of a hodge-podge, and I was always chasing after what I thought were deals ... although most of what I had was not really a deal. That was 33 years ago.
If you can learn to see the value in the coins you love, in the grades you understand and within the budget you can afford, Numismatics will become MUCH more enjoyable, and you won't need to ask ... you'll know when a deal shows up. And over time, I would image you will be rewarded in many ways.
As far as your Buffalo goes, if you knew how to grade you would know it's a AU55 at best. Most books and primers will tell you where to look for the high-point wear. It may be a little lack-luster, but that is difficult from almost ANY image. So possibly a low-end 55, or maybe high-end ... or maybe even a (gasp!) 53. My take is, if you bid and won, complete your deal, and only return if it was not as presented and you can't justify keeping it for your collection. You are COLLECTING, right?
You're already coming off as a petulant adolescent ... and it appears this isn't your first run at it. Sometimes the problem is indeed the man in the mirror.
Also, my friend @TomB is hardly a jerk ... in fact a few he is one of a few that does really try to help. But you need to learn to listen too.
“We are only their care-takers,” he posed, “if we take good care of them, then centuries from now they may still be here … ”
Todd - BHNC #242
I'd strongly suggest choosing one series. Dabbling in more than one will likely be disastrous for you.
Do some research on your top two choices, and then decide based on which series has the best appeal to you. Then do more research. Look at coins on the internet (CoinFacts, auctions). Research them. Maybe buy a coin. Research that coin. Look at more CoinFacts coins and research them. Maybe buy a coin. See how this goes?
Coin Photographer.
Regarding the coin you bought, the listing says this:
Item specifics
Certification: Uncertified
Circulated/Uncirculated: Circulated
If you wanted an uncirculated example, it's stated by the seller that this one is not. You'll save yourself some trouble if you read through the entire listing before bidding. After that, if you still have questions, you can always ask the seller.
Some people take everything personally and refuse to listen and learn. Speaking for myself, if TomB were to scold my choice of coins, I'd pay very careful attention to what he's saying.
If you can, keep the 1936 nickel. It looks fine and it'll give you an example of an AU Buffalo nickel that you can study. Then buy a graded MS 62-63 for comparison for $30-40. I'd also strike up a relationship with a friendly, patient local dealer if you can find one, and join a coin club to get useful feedback in person. That way you'll be less likely to fly off the handle when receiving sound advice.
Try to read this post slowly, or at least don't read it with an agitated mind.
I've gone through your seven US coin forum threads from the month of November and while I do see the occasional snarky comment about a purchase or potential purchase or the way that you find yourself in apparently the same position repeatedly, for the most part I have read really insightful, careful comments by folks who are looking out for your best interests and who are giving away their own time and expertise in an attempt to help you and help others who read your threads. Some of these folks are younger and/or newer collectors, some are specialists or long-term knowledgeable collectors and others are world class dealers who receive no direct gain in attempting to help you or anyone else on these boards.
I have also counted at least five instances (posts) where someone wrote that you may want to consider only buying coins certified by PCGS or another reputable TPG given the nature and frequency of your comments. These posts weren't always direct advice such as "buy only PCGS certified coins..." but instead some were more nuanced with "at this time in your experience you may be better off buying coins certified by a reputable TPG until you can comfortably learn to grade and/or spot surface issues...". Additionally, there have been multiple bits of advice toward you about buying or borrowing books to learn more prior to finding yourself in a buying situation and/or to use the online resources that are available for free for all of us.
You may have missed these posts since you have a way of posting that can invite a high velocity of responses. By that I mean you appear to want to make big scores or you may state you want help but then don't appear to be receptive to the help offered. Those types of comments generally get push-back from the folks you are asking to help you. What I have not seen in these seven threads is any amount of disrespect toward you that is more than just the occasional smacking of one's own proverbial forehead when you lead a horse to water...
It may be impossible for you to realize it, but you are not being ganged up in these threads. Folks are reaching out, but you aren't ready to take the help. Numismatics might not be the hobby you were meant to enjoy, but good luck regardless.
In honor of the memory of Cpl. Michael E. Thompson
@SummerDays3104
Let me shed some light on this one fact that should be abundantly clear for anyone who posts here: Not one forum member here gets paid to post replies in the threads here. None of these people must answer any of the questions that we get to ask.
Some of the forum members here have been collecting and grading coins twice as long as I’ve been alive. Thousands upon thousands of hours reading and studying and looking at coins.
I know that sometimes it may seem like some replies are brash and abrasive, but you need to have a little bit thicker skin to participate in an online forum. Yea, sometimes some people can be rude on here, but overall there is a lot of valuable knowledge freely given out to anyone who asks. With that being said, you can’t expect everyone here to compose a reply as if they were talking to their young granddaughter.
I’m pretty sure that @TomB made similar comments on my first posts, and perhaps I felt somewhat like you did, but over time I came to have great respect for him, and many of the other members that contribute here. I am actually grateful when my questions are inquiries are thoroughly addressed the way yours have been.
Founder- Peak Rarities
Website
Instagram
Facebook
Do what is in your best long-term interests and realize that the coins will always be here whenever you want to jump into the hobby. Good luck.
In honor of the memory of Cpl. Michael E. Thompson