Options
Would you rather have a rarer date low-grade coin or a more common date high-grade coin?
wakkatop
Posts: 5 ✭
Me personally, I would rather have a more common date coin in condition rarity because I like things that are pretty to look at. What are your opinions?
11
Comments
I agree with you right now but would like to retain the right to change my mind momentarily. As honestly now being in this hobby 47 years it's more so on a coin-by-coin basis. So, my opinion on this could change as fast as a dog... Look! Squirrel!
Welcome. Good question.
I would usually say rare date but I’m really stunned by the American Liberty 2022 silver medal.
Although our collection has plenty of shiny new, and not enough early dates in any condition. 😉🙀🦫
🎶 shout shout, let it all out 🎶
Generally I would rather have the more attractive coin, but I usually don’t go nuts with it. Paying huge premiums for a condition rarity when you can get a piece that is almost as nice for a lot less makes sense to me. Translating that to grades, MS-64 often makes sense to me. AU-58 is good for scarce early U.S. coins, and PR-69 works for me over PR-70 for the very modern type coins.
As for the expensive rarities, my rule of thumb is that if I can’t afford something decent, I won’t own it. A case in point is the Draped Bust, Small Eagle Half Dollar. Many years ago I could have stretched and bought one for $8,000. It was the last non gold type coin I needed to complete the type set. The trouble was the coin had AG sharpness and was polished and holed. I’ll pass. Better off without.
Now I have one. It’s a no problem PCGS Fine-15. I wish it was a VF to match my 1796 Quarter, but it was what was available. With the really tough stuff, you buy what you can find and what you can afford.
Rare date, low-grade.
This one is hard..as an example in mercury dimes. For my type set I’ll look for the highest grade in a reasonable price, that would be my first choice, but for my mercury dime set, I looked for a reasonably priced lower grade 16-D( non details) as I truly wouldn’t pay the cost of a mint state one. My answer is ……squirrel.. 🐿️ what was I talking about??
My current registry sets:
20th Century Type Set
Virtual DANSCO 7070
Slabbed IHC set - Missing the Anacs Slabbed coins
For a type set---a common date coin in a high grade
For a series collection---a rare date coin in a lower grade
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
I like condition rarities for modern coins For old coins I would like condition rarities, but usually way out of my league on price, so I get the nicest I can afford without breaking the bank
Successful BST with ad4400, Kccoin, lablover, pointfivezero, koynekwest, jwitten, coin22lover, HalfDimeDude, erwindoc, jyzskowsi, COINS MAKE CENTS, AlanSki, BryceM
I try to have both in my type set. Maybe a branch mint lower grade rarity along with a common high grade.
Successful BST with BustDMs , Pnies20, lkeigwin, pursuitofliberty, Bullsitter, felinfoel, SPalladino (CBH's - 35 Die Marriage's)
$5 Type Set https://www.pcgs.com/setregistry/u-s-coins/type-sets/half-eagle-type-set-circulation-strikes-1795-1929/album/344192
CBH Set https://www.pcgs.com/setregistry/everyman-collections/everyman-half-dollars/everyman-capped-bust-half-dollars-1807-1839/album/345572
I’ll take the lower grade rarity in most circumstances.
Here’s a hypothetical situation- walk around a show with a 21D walker in F/VF and a 42P in 67, both in PCGS holders, and see what offers are made. I’m guessing almost every dealer will try to buy the 21D. And unless the 42P has pretty toning or something that really sets it apart, it will mostly get yawns.
Rare date in lower grade. For example, I would much rather spend 7500 dollars on an 1815 half in XF than a 1832 half in MS 64.
After reading some of the comments, I think it depends on the coin and it's intended purpose for the collection. For my 7070 Type Set, I'll go with a more common date in as high a grade as I can afford. I'm shooting for coins mostly in the XF-AU range for this set. However, I also collect Large Cents. In this collection there are some definite "stoppers" if you're collecting a date-run so getting affordable AND nice pieces is always a constant balancing act. For instance, here's the piece I have in my 7070 for Coronet Head cents... a more common date:
...and here is an 1821... not a huge stopper in lower grades, but this one looked like it didn't have any corrosion (common in early copper) and the color/surfaces looked OK... again, for the grade... I'll likely upgrade at some point.
Oh! ...and Welcome Aboard!!
Successful BST transactions with: SilverEagles92; Ahrensdad; Smitty; GregHansen; Lablade; Mercury10c; copperflopper; whatsup; KISHU1; scrapman1077, crispy, canadanz, smallchange, robkool, Mission16, ranshdow, ibzman350, Fallguy, Collectorcoins, SurfinxHI, jwitten, Walkerguy21D, dsessom.
As I could never really afford a rare date coin for my collection, low grade-rare date for me.
My Original Song Written to my late wife-"Plus other original music by me"
https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PL8A11CC8CC6093D80
https://n1m.com/bobbysmith1
If both choices were of equal value, I would take the rarer date low-grade coin.
@wakkatop... Welcome aboard. My answer is a firm "It depends!" Depends on the coin, what I am collecting at the time, price - and just maybe, what I had for lunch.
Seriously though, I am no pursuing sets of anything now. So really, it is how much a particular coin appeals to me. Cheers, RickO
@wakkatop welcome to the fun! It is definitely an ICB (individual case basis) for me. For example, if I am buying a 2021-D Morgan, I’ll get it in 70. However, if I’m buying a 1916-D Mercury Dime, I may get it in lower grade. There is a difference in my available funds for coin purchases in my budget.
depends on which coin gets my notice
coins for sale at link below
https://photos.app.goo.gl/yGharuQgUMTSUKav7
If it's for my collection, probably lean toward the better quality, unless it's cost prohibitive then I'll settle for lower grade if it still looks good. If it's for selling then it's a whole different weighted calculus.
https://www.the4thcoin.com
https://www.ebay.com/str/thefourthcoin
I would rather have the more attractive coin that exhibits an excellent design that is pleasing to the eye.
When I can get them, I prefer the scarcer date for my collection. If someone at a show or shop (rare) I’ll buy the best combination of date/quality I can find there. Might be a moderate semi-key, or a really nice common, or a well worn rare date if I happen to be able to afford it when I see it. I’ve got a lot of pretty coins because better dates weren’t available in grades that fit my price range.
I like this coin so much that if I could buy a MS 1797 half dollar, I would keep this as a unique terminal die state in G4 grade:
Does an ultra low grade, problem free modern common coin (such as an Ike dollar or a Kennedy half) count?
peacockcoins
-
I agree with Bill.
That said...My primary interest is colonial coins. Many colonial varieties come with less than ideal planchets...weak strike, off center, die cracks, dings, discoloration, etc. In some cases, you may have to just accept this if you want an affordable coin. Some colonial coins just don't exist in mint state. Some are so rare and popular that they are prohibitively expensive in high grades. But I have learned over the years that a coin needs to be XF or better for me to like it and want to keep it.
My short answer is: I buy the more common highest grade I can afford, just before the huge price jump.
Donato
Donato's Complete US Type Set ---- Donato's Dansco 7070 Modified Type Set ---- Donato's Basic U.S. Coin Design Set
Successful transactions: Shrub68 (Jim), MWallace (Mike)
In general I prefer rare coins in an attractive grade xf45 to au58. The marketplace doesn't agree with this becaue of registry collecting. Some silly price differences between MS66 and MS67 for some common coins.
I would rather have an 1896 S Barber quarter in G-04 or VG-08 than an 1892 P in AU-58 or unc.
Or better yet, the 1913 S quarter.
BHNC #203
Rare date, low grade BUT I'd want the coin to show the major details (say VF or better). An example is the 1797 dollar above doesn't do it for me.
I generally like high-grade specimens for my type set, which usually means going with common coins. I do like to include some exceptions, though. 1875-S double dimes and 1938-D buffalo nickel are a little boring, so I went with an 1875-CC 20c and 1937 nickel.
If I ever won the lottery it would be fun to do a key-date type set...... 1916-D Merc, 1916 SLQ, 1921-S Walker, 1964-D Peace dollar...... stuff like that.
I think 5-10 years ago I would have said high grade common coin. Now, I think I would rather have the rarer coin in lower grade condition.
Kinda just comes down to the coin (and budget).
Do I enjoy the coin?
Do I enjoy the hunt?
Types like my avatar can be cheap fun to track down, no matter the grade or desirability.
But I can appreciate a brown, circulated Lincoln.
BST: KindaNewish (3/21/21), WQuarterFreddie (3/30/21), Meltdown (4/6/21), DBSTrader2 (5/5/21) AKA- unclemonkey on Blow Out
WELL SAID
Successful transactions with : MICHAELDIXON, Manorcourtman, Bochiman, bolivarshagnasty, AUandAG, onlyroosies, chumley, Weiss, jdimmick, BAJJERFAN, gene1978, TJM965, Smittys, GRANDAM, JTHawaii, mainejoe, softparade, derryb
Bad transactions with : nobody to date
I am running into this with my $5 Indian set, the 1909-D is everywhere in abundance, under rocks, pocket change, inside cereal boxes, etc…….
Well, not quite, but anyhow, I would much rather have the key date 1909-O in a low grade rather than a 1909-D
Successful transactions with: Lakesammman, jimineez1, Flackthat, PerryHall, bidask, bccox, TwistedArrow1962, free_spirit, alexerca, scooter25, FHC, tnspro, mcarney1173, moursund, and SurfinxHI (6 times)
It depends on what I’m trying for as a set. Some series it is very difficult to obtain all in a similar eye appealing manner and you take what you get.
TurtleCat Gold Dollars
1874-cc Dime PCGS G-6 Not a real looker, but thrilled to have it. I like owning coins that you rarely find. It took 3 years to find this one back in the 1980's, when the price was ridiculously low and no internet. I don't find generic common coins as interesting and feel a bit depressed when a dealer has all generic coins in their case, but respect the preferences of other collectors .
I love this coin!.
I miss details like this also. It's a half! Surprising right?
I'm with Bill on this. I avoid scarce coins by uber high grade, because one way or another, new ones always get made. I like to find a no problem for the grade type coin. What I am looking for is scarce and expensive. Eventually I find it, but I often have to wait years.
"Seu cabra da peste,
"Sou Mangueira......."
Rare date for me
Common and pretty for me.
My YouTube Channel
Occasionally on my limited budget I can get scarce and pretty.
My YouTube Channel
I'm putting together a series set. Would I rather have a rarer date low-grade coin or a more common date high-grade coin?
Some coins are seriously overvalued relative to their populations. I've decided that I'll go without rather than add an low grade or overpay for a grade that fits in with the rest of the set.
I prefer investment grade MS64 and above although I have owned key dates as low as G04. It all depends on price and demand.
It should be about quality for the grade and the goals for what is being assembled. Condition rarities can exit at different grade levels if quality and originality enter the discussion. It really is not reasonable to entertain the question unless and until the parameters have been set.
Experience the World through Numismatics...it's more than you can imagine.
I'd rather have the nicest coin of the type I can find within my budget for that coin. I like looking at what the coins were intended to look like, so I try to achieve that as much as I can.
I would go with a numismatically important low grade rare key date over a common high grade.
Young Numismatist/collector
75 Positive BST transactions buying and selling with 45 members and counting!
instagram.com/klnumismatics
Assuming equivalent value I'd take the rare date 99 times out of 100. Rare dates are always in demand but a widget coin even in top grade can be a hard sell. The exception would be if the common high grade piece had some attribute that made it stand out from the crowd like killer unique toning or superb strike on a date that doesn't normally come that way.
RIP Mom- 1932-2012
My dogs are on squirrels like stink on poo. They’re both Rat Terriers but they think they are squirrel trerriers😜
To answer the question. I love high graded coins that look nice. They don’t even have to be highly graded coins just as long as they are attractive.
Common coin, killer look - all day, every day
I would like to build a basic 5 coin half cent set. The earliest coin slot would have to be nearly unrecognizable due to wear for me to afford it. Such a worn condition would fill a slot, but not fill my soul with joy. So until/unless I'm willing to spend big bucks there are too many other coins I'd like to own instead.
Even at today's spot price of around $25, way overpriced at $82.00 for a medal containing an ounce of silver. Almost ten percent (7163 more left) of the mintage limit still available even though it has been over seven months after it was released on 18th of August last year.
Editing to add response to the thread query - I would prefer rarer dates in lower grade coin than a more common date in high grade.
Cheers.
https://www.pcgs.com/setregistry/u-s-coins/quarters/PCGS-2020-quarter-quest/album/247091
Will always chose a rare coin in low grade vs a common coin in high grade.
Coin collecting interests: Latin America
Sports: NFL & NHL