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Which 14-s buff would you keep?

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  • drei3reedrei3ree Posts: 3,430 ✭✭✭✭

    Number 2, not even close...but the tail is nicer on #1 ;)

  • CameonutCameonut Posts: 7,300 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I like #1 more

    “In matters of style, swim with the current; in matters of principle, stand like a rock." - Thomas Jefferson

    My digital cameo album 1950-64 Cameos - take a look!

  • drei3reedrei3ree Posts: 3,430 ✭✭✭✭

    @ad4400 said:
    Both are graded the same. Both imaged by CHD. I’ve formed some opinions which is technically stronger, which I can share later.

    Coin 1 has been in the set for many years. Every time I’ve considered upgrading and compare to next grade up, I decide to stay put. Great subtle color and ‘intagibles’ have kept me happy for many years.

    Enter Coin 2. I really like look of surfaces , but it does not have the same ‘pop’ of color. Super strong clashes add to a neato factor, plus a stronger obverse strike.

    For page 2.

  • rickoricko Posts: 98,724 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Number two for me.... I like the detail and - a personal foible - lack of tarnish. If presented with the choice at a coin show, I would select the second coin with no hesitation. Cheers, RickO

  • tradedollarnuttradedollarnut Posts: 20,162 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Keep number one until you find a replacement coin where you don’t even have to ask because you KNOW

  • johnny9434johnny9434 Posts: 28,466 ✭✭✭✭✭

    both are nice but would take the top one. i like the color better, jmo

  • mannie graymannie gray Posts: 7,259 ✭✭✭✭✭

    2 would be my pick.

  • ShamikaShamika Posts: 18,781 ✭✭✭✭

    I love them both. But #2 is my favorite.

    Buyer and seller of vintage coin boards!
  • ad4400ad4400 Posts: 2,107 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Thanks for everyone's input. Lots a valid and varied perspectives. The tally as of this afternoon:

    Votes for Coin 1 = 15
    Votes for Coin 2 = 28
    Votes to keep both = 4

    Both are graded PCGS63. I think the 2nd coin is technically stronger, with a better strike and having the edge in luster. Both pieces are amazingly mark free for the assigned grade.

    I am still torn and will need to do some soul searching once coin 2 is back from imaging. Coin 1 has been part of the set for many years, and is sort of a survivor, coming out ahead every time I've considered an upgrade. The subtle color is very alluring, and as mentioned in OP, it has an 'intangible'. That said I've always fancied the textured fields some coins of this date exhibit, and I am in fact a fan of clashing. I feel it is the technically stronger of the two. Both coins work for my set, so hard to give a nod one way or the other based on that.

  • amwldcoinamwldcoin Posts: 11,269 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited May 31, 2018 10:20AM

    Sounds like if money wasn't an issue I would just keep them both! I have several 58 Barber Half's I like better than the 58+'s I replaced them with so I just kept them....That is until PCGS decides the others are worthy of a +! :# Then I will sell the +'s I replaced with the coin I like better!

    PS Edit to add my avatar is a great example...took me 5 tries to get a + when IMHO it should have +'d the 1st time through!

    @ad4400 said:
    Thanks for everyone's input. Lots a valid and varied perspectives. The tally as of this afternoon:

    Votes for Coin 1 = 15
    Votes for Coin 2 = 28
    Votes to keep both = 4

    Both are graded PCGS63. I think the 2nd coin is technically stronger, with a better strike and having the edge in luster. Both pieces are amazingly mark free for the assigned grade.

    I am still torn and will need to do some soul searching once coin 2 is back from imaging. Coin 1 has been part of the set for many years, and is sort of a survivor, coming out ahead every time I've considered an upgrade. The subtle color is very alluring, and as mentioned in OP, it has an 'intangible'. That said I've always fancied the textured fields some coins of this date exhibit, and I am in fact a fan of clashing. I feel it is the technically stronger of the two. Both coins work for my set, so hard to give a nod one way or the other based on that.

  • GRANDAMGRANDAM Posts: 8,536 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited May 31, 2018 10:33AM

    Both are very nice but I would pick the second due to its color and strike.

    That said what do they grade? I would amend my answer to keep the higher grade coin as both are nice

    GrandAm :)
  • BuffaloIronTailBuffaloIronTail Posts: 7,482 ✭✭✭✭✭

    A lot of 1914-S Nickels come struck surprisingly nice and bold. Of course, you don't get the bold LIBERTY before 1916.

    Both coins are exceptional. Both exhibit strong detail on the top feather. That alone, IMHOP should get a grade of no less than 64 on strike alone!

    Never a dull moment with Buffs. I love 'em.

    Pete

    "I tell them there's no problems.....only solutions" - John Lennon
  • WalkerfanWalkerfan Posts: 9,373 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @ad4400 I just checked out your Buffalo nickel and Liberty Head nickel sets. I was very impressed. High quality with a lot of eye appeal. Very nice!

    Sometimes, it’s better to be LUCKY than good. 🍀 🍺👍

    My Full Walker Registry Set (1916-1947):

    https://www.ngccoin.com/registry/competitive-sets/16292/

  • crazyhounddogcrazyhounddog Posts: 13,984 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited May 31, 2018 12:31PM

    @BuffaloIronTail said:
    A lot of 1914-S Nickels come struck surprisingly nice and bold. Of course, you don't get the bold LIBERTY before 1916.

    Both coins are exceptional. Both exhibit strong detail on the top feather. That alone, IMHOP should get a grade of no less than 64 on strike alone!

    Never a dull moment with Buffs. I love 'em.

    Pete

    Not sure sure about the "No Bold Liberty" before 1916 deal, Pete.....


    I have more :)

    The bitterness of "Poor Quality" is remembered long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.
  • koynekwestkoynekwest Posts: 10,048 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I, too am a fan of clashed dies, especially in this series and particularly of the so called "Lone Ranger" clash like this one-

    And yes, Joe-"LIBERTY" is indeed stronger on the coins from 1916. The obverse die was reworked, with one of the objectives to strengthen LIBERTY. It's even stronger on a 1916 regular issue than on the matte proofs from 1913 to 1915.

  • DantesDadDantesDad Posts: 113 ✭✭✭

    Alain - Number 1 just pops with the colors, I'd stay put.

    Always buying and looking for a deal.
  • crazyhounddogcrazyhounddog Posts: 13,984 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited May 31, 2018 12:56PM

    @koynekwest said:
    I, too am a fan of clashed dies, especially in this series and particularly of the so called "Lone Ranger" clash like this one-

    And yes, Joe-"LIBERTY" is indeed stronger on the coins from 1916. The obverse die was reworked, with one of the objectives to strengthen LIBERTY. It's even stronger on a 1916 regular issue than on the matte proofs from 1913 to 1915.

    Got it. I stand corrected. I forgot about that.

    The bitterness of "Poor Quality" is remembered long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.
  • BillJonesBillJones Posts: 34,098 ✭✭✭✭✭

    If you are only going to keep one, I'd go for #2. It has better luster and a sharper strike which has resulted in a better cape on the buffalo. It also has a better obverse, which is very important.

    Retired dealer and avid collector of U.S. type coins, 19th century presidential campaign medalets and selected medals. In recent years I have been working on a set of British coins - at least one coin from each king or queen who issued pieces that are collectible. I am also collecting at least one coin for each Roman emperor from Julius Caesar to ... ?
  • KccoinKccoin Posts: 1,086 ✭✭✭✭✭

    more eye appeal on #1 for me.

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