What are your thoughts about dip residue on coins?
mercurydimeguy
Posts: 4,625 ✭✭✭✭
Should a coin with obvious and decent amount dip residue in a number of places on the coin's surface be slabbed by TPG's? Not talking about a coin turning in the slab but rather a somewhat freshly slabbed coin, and then should the same coin receive CAC green sticker?
I present you this example (having all the aforementioned attributes) for you comment, critique, or support. Interested in your opinions...
What should the owner of this coin do? Send it back to CAC? Send it back to the TPG for review or conservation (and pay additional $$ either way)? Crack and re-dip? ...
I present you this example (having all the aforementioned attributes) for you comment, critique, or support. Interested in your opinions...
What should the owner of this coin do? Send it back to CAC? Send it back to the TPG for review or conservation (and pay additional $$ either way)? Crack and re-dip? ...
0
Comments
Doing that or sending it to the TPG is not worth it.
The Luster Layer is damaged, end of story.
I would contact CAC to see if you can get rid of it that way and then find an example you like better.
Looking for Top Pop Mercury Dime Varieties & High Grade Mercury Dime Toners.
But the slab is fine for a place holder in my set.
"Seu cabra da peste,
"Sou Mangueira......."
Latin American Collection
If you cannot dip
You must restore
Or else be poor
<< <i>No excuse for that. Proper neutralizing and rinsing would prevent this. If one does not understand such things, do not attempt it. Cheers, RickO >>
+1
A properly dipped coin that has not been damaged by the toning should be completely indistinguishable from a coin fresh from the bag (aside from there being a white coin that should not exist white because they tended to not be saved in rolls or bags). Not properly neutralizing the coin is careless and unfortunately is undetectable until months later which explains why some coins that are graded and stickered can turn.
On mostly rare occasions dip residue can re-tone the coin and give it the spectacular colors for which some collectors are willing to pay thousands. It is also often the source of the colorful circulated silver coins that some people find intriguing. The trouble with this potentially happy scenario is that the process keeps going until it eats the coin in the worst cases (I've seen this happen with dipped copper or bronze pieces.) or leaves it with ugly, thick irremovable tarnish that also ruins the coin.
This is one of the problems with buying bright Uncirculated coins in new slabs. You can't tell at that point whether or not the dip, if the coin has been dipped, has been properly neutralized. It's one of the reasons why I feel safer with old slabs. Chances are if the coin has not turned in a number of years, it's stable and won't turn given proper storage.
<< <i>This is one of the problems with buying bright Uncirculated coins in new slabs. You can't tell at that point whether or not the dip, if the coin has been dipped, has been properly neutralized. It's one of the reasons why I feel safer with old slabs. Chances are if the coin has not turned in a number of years, it's stable and won't turn given proper storage. >>
That's the real problem with dipping.
Natural (but unsightly) patina --> dip bucket --> grades higher, stickers --> coin turns in holder --> coin is re-submitted for restoration --> coin is re-dipped --> coin gets re-holdered --> coin turns again --> rinse & repeat......
Eventually, all this "conservation" will ruin some coins. Many others will remain stable and be OK, but it's hard to predict what will happen. Sooner or later the music stops and someone is left without a chair to sit in.
It's probably true that doing it "the right way" is better than using poor technique, but even then some coins won't fare so well.
Sometimes, it’s better to be LUCKY than good. 🍀 🍺👍
My Full Walker Registry Set (1916-1947):
https://www.ngccoin.com/registry/competitive-sets/16292/