Is there a minimum grade that you can live with?

kranky

When you want a certain coin, do you get whatever grade you can afford, no matter what grade it is? Or, if you can't afford the coin in a certain grade or higher, do you skip it altogether?

For myself, if MS62 is the best I can afford, I'll get an AU58 instead if I can find a nice one because I don't generally like the look of 60-62. Or if the best I can afford is F, I'll probably not get the coin at all unless I really want one for type.

I know many coins are pricey even in AG and if you need a coin for a set, you need the coin and that's the way it is. But I find myself picking up other coins instead if the best I can afford is F or below.

mgoodm3

I tend toward proofs. I like to stick to 63 or 64 and above. proofs tend to get pretty snotty below that. Other coins it's the best I can afford principle.

coinguy89

Grade usually doesn't matter too much to me, unless it's slabbed, I usually just go with what looks good.

numonebuyer

I like this G-06 1893-S Morgan.

SirAnthonyAC

Hi,

For my collection, I try to keep the coins at EF or better however; it does depend on the coin and the value.

If it’s something I like, but don’t’ have any examples of…. Having an off condition version is better than having nothing.

I would have no problem with a nice Very Good condition silver dollar from 1795 for example. I really don’t think I’ll be picking one up in MS60 shape anytime soon!

Anthony

braddick

Colorfulcoins

PO01

Sylvestius

My favourite grade is probably GVF.

The lowest i feel happy with is AVF, The highest i like to go is usually AEF, but if i really like a GEF specimen i will buy it. I however prefer coins with lots of detail but show some slight traces of wear, this wear adds that extra historical dimension to it, the coin has been out in circulation (albeit briefly), but it's done what it's intended to do.

I have GF coins and even AF coins but i'm hoping to upgrade them.

mgoodm3

<< <i>My favourite grade is probably GVF.

The lowest i feel happy with is AVF, The highest i like to go is usually AEF, but if i really like a GEF specimen i will buy it. I however prefer coins with lots of detail but show some slight traces of wear, this wear adds that extra historical dimension to it, the coin has been out in circulation (albeit briefly), but it's done what it's intended to do.

I have GF coins and even AF coins but i'm hoping to upgrade them. >>




Are those like English grades you're talking?

cladking

It has to be identifiable as to type. I don't like damage or obvious die problems but
am usually content with the best I can find.

prooflike

There are some coins I can;t afford in any grade

I get the best I can afford, but I'd rather have a slider 58 than an MS60 or 61, and I'll be collecting most of the 19th century type coins in circulated condition, not only because they are less costly, but because they have definite character and history.

JrGMan2004

<< <i>

<< <i>My favourite grade is probably GVF.

The lowest i feel happy with is AVF, The highest i like to go is usually AEF, but if i really like a GEF specimen i will buy it. I however prefer coins with lots of detail but show some slight traces of wear, this wear adds that extra historical dimension to it, the coin has been out in circulation (albeit briefly), but it's done what it's intended to do.

I have GF coins and even AF coins but i'm hoping to upgrade them. >>




Are those like English grades you're talking? >>

I think it's like "Good" VF (Choice VF, VF35) vs. "Average" VF (VF30), etc. etc.

RYK

F12

coachleonard

if it's genuine and rare enough, i'll happily settle for Poor (as in 1792 half-disme or 1659 calvert shilling)

keets

hey Jim

MS66FS, of course, from looking at literally thousands and thousands and thousands and thousands and thousands..........well, you get the point. there is a noticeable difference---to me, at least---below that grade and not enough above it to warrant the steep price difference.

al h.

BillJones

For old and scarce silver and copper coins (late 1790s to early 1800s) F-12 with eye appeal is about as low as I will go. I've had some lower grade stuff in my collection, but it didn't last. I ended up selling it.

For early gold EF-45 or so is about as low as I will go. Banged up, bagged marked coins do NOTHING for me.

On the other end, I have very little that grades higher than MS-64 in my collection. I like variety, and the super prices for super coins would mean that I would have a pretty narrow collection if I were hold out to make everything MS-65 or better.

The exception is Proof coins. Generally I don't collect 20th century Proofs in less than PR-65 or 66. I've got a 1937 Buffalo nickel in PR-67. That's how high I had to get to get something that pleased me. The lower grades didn't do it for me.

cladking

<< <i> "On the other end, I have very little that grades higher than MS-64 in my collection. I like variety, and the super prices for super coins would mean that I would have a pretty narrow collection if I were hold out to make everything MS-65 or better." >>



This is one of the biggest attractions of the moderns: that it is possible to acquire coins in higher grades for very little or no additional cost. Even a half hearted attempt at selecting superior examples will result in many MS-65 and some higher grade examples in most of the modern sets. There are many reasons people collect these but one of the greatest is low cost.

nwcs

Min grade for me to be happy with some coins: AG

topstuf

My icon's a G4 so I guess I can't get too snooty.

razorface1027

AU-53 for semi-keys, at least MS-62 for commons, and anything for the truly KEY dates. Speaking of course, about the Morgan dollar series. Any other denominations I'm content with any grade. If I intend to delve the denomination, then the search begins.

BillJones

<< <i>My icon's a G4 so I guess I can't get too snooty.

>>



If the obverse on that Chain Cent is at all decent, you will get a lot more than a G-4 for that coin, but the looks of it. The one in my icon is in a VF-30 holder, and I only considered it to be a Fine-15 when I sent it in.

topstuf

Unfortunately, the obverse is weak. Have to tilt it to see hint of date.

BOTH sides

P. Seegiess says it is G4 and that's that!

Sylvestius

>>

I think it's like "Good" VF (Choice VF, VF35) vs. "Average" VF (VF30), etc. etc. >>



Yep that's right and A = Almost/about.

BillJones

<< <i>Unfortunately, the obverse is weak. Have to tilt it to see hint of date.

BOTH sides

P. Seegiess says it is G4 and that's that!

>>



Yea, you're right. With no date visible, you won't get any better than a Good-4.

PreTurb

I collect ALL grades of rarer half dollar varieties I need. I can always upgrade later.

Better condition = more expensive, poorer condition = less expensive. I'm not picky.

Shamika

Depends on the series.

For my Buffalo collection, MS63 is the minimum. And let me tell you, it's gonna hurt me when buying about half a dozen coins.

Baley

I think AG is about as low a grade I can live with, and that would have to be a pretty old and rare coin.

For merely scarce coins, I like 'em in mid- circ or higher, say VF and up.

for common coins, I like choice and gem unc. and gem proof, but don't care much for "condition rarities" i.e. otherwise very common coins in uncommonly high grade; I'd just as soon have a lesser but still very nice coin.

WaterSport

We all start out with what we can afford...regardless of series...and then go for just finishing it. I am finally after after 35 years able to afford upgrades of the 1909- 1929 Lincolns at no less than than MS 63 R&B because I like a little copper showing through. Just me. But I like worn and proof and like some said, if its that rare, even AG is OK.

WS

aem4162

i'll take what looks purty and if i can afford it

jdimmick

I would probably say a solid F-12, but I did carry a vg-10 01-s quarter until I found it!

Fairlaneman

<< <i> >>



Craig mentioned PO01. I think if you could get one slabbed PO00 is your number.

pursuitofliberty

I guess I'm a little funny this way ... at least comapred to others posts. I collect Choice AU/Unc's almost exclusively ... except for some Choice/Gem in later series ... and really don't get that interested in owning something unless it is at least a nice EF.

BAJJERFAN

The lowest graded Morgan in my Registry set is a vf35 and unless I luck into some serious $$$ that one will stay that way, otherwise au50 is the minimum and thats for the 89-CC.

ccex

The lowest grade coin in the set I collect most seriously is F-12. I try for VF-30 in the semi-keys and AU in the common dates.

I have another difficult set in which the highest permissable grade is AG-3.5. PO-1 is preferred there.

For my 19th/20th type set album, nothing below VF-30 is admitted, and I look for EF-40 on the pricey ones, MS-64 on the less expensive ones. However, I prefer a nice AU-58 to an MS-60/61 or even 62 any day.

Catch22

I'm not too picky. My minimum is full rims and problem free. I enjoy rarity and can't afford the high end examples so I concentrate on low grade, problem free examples of the more difficult coins. Hey, it's tougher than you might think. There are a lot of rare coins out there that are far easier to obtain in high grades than in problem free collector grades. I guess that's like having champagne taste on a beer budget.

dollardude

It depends on the series:

Morgans: AG03+ for keys, MS64 for common ones
Peaces: XF45+ for keys, MS64 for common ones
Ikes: MS64 for keys, MS65 for common ones, MS66 for 71 silver, MS67 for other silver and PR68DCAMs for proofs (very easy)
Sacs: MS67 in general and PR69DCAMs for proofs (very easy)
SBAs: MS66 in for easy ones, MS65 for hard ones, and PR69DCAMs for easy proofs or PR68DCAMs for hard proofs
SAEs: MS69 for all (very easy except for 1993) and PR69DCAM for all except 95W (ANYTHING would be acceptable for this one)
Walkers: I just started this set, so I'm still thinking.

LincolnCentMan

I'm obviously doing lincolns. Although my preference is for MS64 brown and better, I'd settle for lower MS grades on the tougher dates as long as I liked the coin's look.

David

oldcameoproofsguy

If I decide to complete a set of Buffalo nickels there are a couple of coins that I may go au58 on. Most will be MS64 or higher.

Elcontador

This is a good question. As a rule, I avoid MS 60-2 coins, as these are market grades and with hard to grade coins (SLQs, Capped Bust Halves, etc.), you can be in no-man's land gradewise between MS 58 and MS 63.

As I look for early 19th & late 18th Century coins, I'm afraid it will simply be a matter of what is available and do I choose to spend the $ for it. Many of these coins simply aren't readily available in any grade.