Is there a minimum grade that you can live with?
kranky
Posts: 8,709 ✭✭✭
When you want a certain coin, do you get whatever grade you can afford, no matter what grade it is? Or, if you can't afford the coin in a certain grade or higher, do you skip it altogether?
For myself, if MS62 is the best I can afford, I'll get an AU58 instead if I can find a nice one because I don't generally like the look of 60-62. Or if the best I can afford is F, I'll probably not get the coin at all unless I really want one for type.
I know many coins are pricey even in AG and if you need a coin for a set, you need the coin and that's the way it is. But I find myself picking up other coins instead if the best I can afford is F or below.
For myself, if MS62 is the best I can afford, I'll get an AU58 instead if I can find a nice one because I don't generally like the look of 60-62. Or if the best I can afford is F, I'll probably not get the coin at all unless I really want one for type.
I know many coins are pricey even in AG and if you need a coin for a set, you need the coin and that's the way it is. But I find myself picking up other coins instead if the best I can afford is F or below.
New collectors, please educate yourself before spending money on coins; there are people who believe that using numismatic knowledge to rip the naïve is what this hobby is all about.
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-YN Currently Collecting & Researching Colonial World Coins, Especially Spanish Coins, With a Great Interest in WWII Militaria.
My Ebay!
For my collection, I try to keep the coins at EF or better however; it does depend on the coin and the value.
If it’s something I like, but don’t’ have any examples of…. Having an off condition version is better than having nothing.
I would have no problem with a nice Very Good condition silver dollar from 1795 for example. I really don’t think I’ll be picking one up in MS60 shape anytime soon!
Anthony
peacockcoins
If I had it my way, stupidity would be painful!
The lowest i feel happy with is AVF, The highest i like to go is usually AEF, but if i really like a GEF specimen i will buy it. I however prefer coins with lots of detail but show some slight traces of wear, this wear adds that extra historical dimension to it, the coin has been out in circulation (albeit briefly), but it's done what it's intended to do.
I have GF coins and even AF coins but i'm hoping to upgrade them.
<< <i>My favourite grade is probably GVF.
The lowest i feel happy with is AVF, The highest i like to go is usually AEF, but if i really like a GEF specimen i will buy it. I however prefer coins with lots of detail but show some slight traces of wear, this wear adds that extra historical dimension to it, the coin has been out in circulation (albeit briefly), but it's done what it's intended to do.
I have GF coins and even AF coins but i'm hoping to upgrade them. >>
Are those like English grades you're talking?
am usually content with the best I can find.
I get the best I can afford, but I'd rather have a slider 58 than an MS60 or 61, and I'll be collecting most of the 19th century type coins in circulated condition, not only because they are less costly, but because they have definite character and history.
<< <i>
<< <i>My favourite grade is probably GVF.
The lowest i feel happy with is AVF, The highest i like to go is usually AEF, but if i really like a GEF specimen i will buy it. I however prefer coins with lots of detail but show some slight traces of wear, this wear adds that extra historical dimension to it, the coin has been out in circulation (albeit briefly), but it's done what it's intended to do.
I have GF coins and even AF coins but i'm hoping to upgrade them. >>
Are those like English grades you're talking? >>
I think it's like "Good" VF (Choice VF, VF35) vs. "Average" VF (VF30), etc. etc.
42/92
MS66FS, of course, from looking at literally thousands and thousands and thousands and thousands and thousands..........well, you get the point. there is a noticeable difference---to me, at least---below that grade and not enough above it to warrant the steep price difference.
al h.
For early gold EF-45 or so is about as low as I will go. Banged up, bagged marked coins do NOTHING for me.
On the other end, I have very little that grades higher than MS-64 in my collection. I like variety, and the super prices for super coins would mean that I would have a pretty narrow collection if I were hold out to make everything MS-65 or better.
The exception is Proof coins. Generally I don't collect 20th century Proofs in less than PR-65 or 66. I've got a 1937 Buffalo nickel in PR-67. That's how high I had to get to get something that pleased me. The lower grades didn't do it for me.
<< <i> "On the other end, I have very little that grades higher than MS-64 in my collection. I like variety, and the super prices for super coins would mean that I would have a pretty narrow collection if I were hold out to make everything MS-65 or better." >>
This is one of the biggest attractions of the moderns: that it is possible to acquire coins in higher grades for very little or no additional cost. Even a half hearted attempt at selecting superior examples will result in many MS-65 and some higher grade examples in most of the modern sets. There are many reasons people collect these but one of the greatest is low cost.
<< <i>My icon's a G4 so I guess I can't get too snooty.
>>
If the obverse on that Chain Cent is at all decent, you will get a lot more than a G-4 for that coin, but the looks of it. The one in my icon is in a VF-30 holder, and I only considered it to be a Fine-15 when I sent it in.
BOTH sides
P. Seegiess says it is G4 and that's that!
>>
I think it's like "Good" VF (Choice VF, VF35) vs. "Average" VF (VF30), etc. etc. >>
Yep that's right and A = Almost/about.
<< <i>Unfortunately, the obverse is weak. Have to tilt it to see hint of date.
BOTH sides
P. Seegiess says it is G4 and that's that!
>>
Yea, you're right. With no date visible, you won't get any better than a Good-4.
Better condition = more expensive, poorer condition = less expensive. I'm not picky.
For my Buffalo collection, MS63 is the minimum. And let me tell you, it's gonna hurt me when buying about half a dozen coins.
For merely scarce coins, I like 'em in mid- circ or higher, say VF and up.
for common coins, I like choice and gem unc. and gem proof, but don't care much for "condition rarities" i.e. otherwise very common coins in uncommonly high grade; I'd just as soon have a lesser but still very nice coin.
Liberty: Parent of Science & Industry
WS
<< <i> >>
Craig mentioned PO01. I think if you could get one slabbed PO00 is your number.
“We are only their care-takers,” he posed, “if we take good care of them, then centuries from now they may still be here … ”
Todd - BHNC #242
I have another difficult set in which the highest permissable grade is AG-3.5. PO-1 is preferred there.
For my 19th/20th type set album, nothing below VF-30 is admitted, and I look for EF-40 on the pricey ones, MS-64 on the less expensive ones. However, I prefer a nice AU-58 to an MS-60/61 or even 62 any day.
When we are planning for posterity, we ought to remember that virtue is not hereditary.
Thomas Paine
Morgans: AG03+ for keys, MS64 for common ones
Peaces: XF45+ for keys, MS64 for common ones
Ikes: MS64 for keys, MS65 for common ones, MS66 for 71 silver, MS67 for other silver and PR68DCAMs for proofs (very easy)
Sacs: MS67 in general and PR69DCAMs for proofs (very easy)
SBAs: MS66 in for easy ones, MS65 for hard ones, and PR69DCAMs for easy proofs or PR68DCAMs for hard proofs
SAEs: MS69 for all (very easy except for 1993) and PR69DCAM for all except 95W (ANYTHING would be acceptable for this one)
Walkers: I just started this set, so I'm still thinking.
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David
As I look for early 19th & late 18th Century coins, I'm afraid it will simply be a matter of what is available and do I choose to spend the $ for it. Many of these coins simply aren't readily available in any grade.
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