<< <i>Personally, I struggle to grade $2.5 and $5 Indian Head Gold coins even though I love the design. High end AU and MS coins all look the same to me. >>
I agree with you on that and anything copper for me.............
I think even the pros will agree with you on this one. $2.5 and $5 Indians can be very interesting to grade with their incuse designs. And, to make matters worse, you really need to see many hundreds or thousands of them in order to have the eye to tell whether or not the color is "right" or the surfaces have been altered.
<< <i>Personally, I struggle to grade $2.5 and $5 Indian Head Gold coins even though I love the design. High end AU and MS coins all look the same to me. >>
that is precisely why when it comes time to add one of these to my collection, i'll save my money and buy an AU one.
Colonial coins, California fractional gold, Dahlonega and Charlotte mint gold. All of these are frequently crudely manufactured and are difficult to grade because of this.
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
Part of my problem is that the circulated ones mostly look like crap to me unless it's a 1916.
Retired dealer and avid collector of U.S. type coins, 19th century presidential campaign medalets and selected medals. In recent years I have been working on a set of British coins - at least one coin from each king or queen who issued pieces that are collectible. I am also collecting at least one coin for each Roman emperor from Julius Caesar to ... ?
Buffalo and Jefferson nickels, since very few people including the TGS's actually know how to grade them. A perfect example was the sale of Cladmaker's Buffalo nickels! Did someone say high quality "early die state" examples are what made that collection so GREAT? Congrats to Rick Hennessy!
Leo
The more qualities observed in a coin, the more desirable that coin becomes!
I think it's Buffalo nickels, since the grading varies by date and mint so much.
New collectors, please educate yourself before spending money on coins; there are people who believe that using numismatic knowledge to rip the naïve is what this hobby is all about.
I've found Large Cents to be a bit of a challenge, but the more I get a feel for which years had exceptionally poor strikes and/or planchet problems, the better I'm able to grade them.
Leo
Collecting: Dansco 7070; Middle Date Large Cents (VF-AU); Box of 20;
I could not grade anything with confidence if someone else was depending on my judgement. I've read your basic books so I have no problem buying raw. Now if I was to submit those raw purchases to get graded I'd probably get my feelings hurt. . So much to learn and so little time. I'm not afraid to seek advice and I hope that has served me well. If your ignorant like me, get help. That's what I do. jws
<< <i>I think the Peace dollars are very hard to grade because of their poor strike especially the 1921 Peace Dollars >>
Yes, Peace dollars are tough. My feeling on that series is that the valuation should be more tightly bound to the eye appeal than to the technical grade.
$2.50 and $5.00 Indians - the incuse design causes a lot of confusion. I have seen people trying to sell sets of $2.50 indians the seller sold to them as "Ch BU" that when graded came back AU 55 or AU 58 for the most part. Maybe a couple MS 61 if they were lucky and they all think the dealer is trying to rip them when they're only offered AU money. I would call it a leap of faith to buy one of these raw sets for AU money as the coins could be fake too. Not as common on the bourse as say 10-15 yr ago. I had a fellow offer me one such set recently "what do you want for these BU's he asked" I examined it and instantly thought AU on all of them but just politely replied "nice looking set in that capital holder but no interest" "See that guy in the cowboy hat over there about three tables down? Let him take a look, he might be a buyer."
Difficulty is usually linked to practice (experience), I do not collect $2.5 and $5 Indians and find them challenging, shield nickels are also a more difficult series for me. Walkers can be difficult in the AU-MS61-2 range. Colonials require knowledge about strike. On the other hand, trimes were listed by a number of you as difficult but pretty straight forward for my eye ( although NGC grades then 0.5-1 point higher than PCGS in upper mint states and proofs). Some 3CN dates can be difficult to distiguish MS from PR. In fact I have sent several coins in for regrades and had them return in an upgrade but switched from MS to PR and vise versa.
I'm still learning how to grade all of them. I did take my 2.50 1911 Indian Gold to 3 different shops with me and while there asked for their grade opinion. 3 Shops and a total of 4 different people looked at the coin and their professional opinions varied from Fine to MS62? Just made me more confused. It's off at PCGS now so we'll see who was closest.
Part of my problem is that the circulated ones mostly look like crap to me unless it's a 1916. >>
Bill,
I couldn't agree with you more. I have collected SLQ's for many years and have assembled a few sets. I have no problem grading everything up to AU58, and I can grade all 63 - thru - 68's. The real problem I have is inbetween grades like MS 61 & 62. Most of the 61's should be in a 60 holder, and the few 62's I've seen could slide into a 63 holder.
Many images I see on line seem to mask rub on the leading leg making many think the coin look MS; you really have to grade the SLQ in hand and never rely on images.
Mike Hayes ~~~~~~~~~~~~ Coin collecting is not a hobby, it's an obsession !
I have a lot of trouble with Yap money - they're all holed, and its next to impossible to figure out what constitutes luster on something made of stone.
What is now proved was once only imagined. - William Blake
<< <i>I have a lot of trouble with Yap money - they're all holed, and its next to impossible to figure out what constitutes luster on something made of stone. >>
Wouldn't Yap money be considered "slabs"?
An authorized PCGS dealer, and a contributor to the Red Book.
Shamika, I think there are two distinctions that could be made here. The grading of some series is more art than technical. Others are more technical than art. For example, in my opinion grading early buffalo nickels is more art than technical aspects. A Jefferson nickel is more technical than art. Most people find technical grading easier than art.
To me, the most difficult series to grade are Capped Bust Halves. They're open collar coins, and especially the MS 58 - MS 63 area is a coin collector's "Lucha Libre." Even many 5s lack detail, so you really have to know what is wear (I look for luster breaks) versus sub-optimal strike.
Hootchiegirl, re your comment "easiest has got to be the whole barber series." That's because most of them are overgraded as well as ugly.
"Vou invadir o Nordeste, "Seu cabra da peste, "Sou Mangueira......."
<< <i>To me, the most difficult series to grade are Capped Bust Halves. They're open collar coins, and especially the MS 58 - MS 63 area is a coin collector's "Lucha Libre." Even many 5s lack detail, so you really have to know what is wear (I look for luster breaks) versus sub-optimal strike.
Hootchiegirl, re your comment "easiest has got to be the whole barber series." That's because most of them are overgraded as well as ugly. >>
********
Mike Hayes ~~~~~~~~~~~~ Coin collecting is not a hobby, it's an obsession !
<< <i>Shamika, I think there are two distinctions that could be made here. The grading of some series is more art than technical. Others are more technical than art. For example, in my opinion grading early buffalo nickels is more art than technical aspects. A Jefferson nickel is more technical than art. Most people find technical grading easier than art. >>
Comments
<< <i>Personally, I struggle to grade $2.5 and $5 Indian Head Gold coins even though I love the design. High end AU and MS coins all look the same to me. >>
I agree with you on that and anything copper for me.............
<< <i>Personally, I struggle to grade $2.5 and $5 Indian Head Gold coins even though I love the design. High end AU and MS coins all look the same to me. >>
that is precisely why when it comes time to add one of these to my collection, i'll save my money and buy an AU one.
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
As far as U.S. series, I think Standing Lib. Quarters and 3-cent coins----both silver and nickel. (I'm not too familiar with the gold series)
Part of my problem is that the circulated ones mostly look like crap to me unless it's a 1916.
Leo
The more qualities observed in a coin, the more desirable that coin becomes!
My Jefferson Nickel Collection
-Amanda
I'm a YN working on a type set!
My Buffalo Nickel Website Home of the Quirky Buffaloes Collection!
Proud member of the CUFYNA
New collectors, please educate yourself before spending money on coins; there are people who believe that using numismatic knowledge to rip the naïve is what this hobby is all about.
I've found Large Cents to be a bit of a challenge, but the more I get a feel for which years had exceptionally poor strikes and/or planchet problems, the better I'm able to grade them.
Leo
Successful BST transactions with: SilverEagles92; Ahrensdad; Smitty; GregHansen; Lablade; Mercury10c; copperflopper; whatsup; KISHU1; scrapman1077, crispy, canadanz, smallchange, robkool, Mission16, ranshdow, ibzman350, Fallguy, Collectorcoins, SurfinxHI, jwitten, Walkerguy21D, dsessom.
<< <i>Morgan Dollars. I have to repeatedly turn my head away during the process so as not to barf.
So much to learn and so little time. I'm not afraid to seek advice and I hope that has served me well.
If your ignorant like me, get help. That's what I do. jws
<< <i>I think the Peace dollars are very hard to grade because of their poor strike especially the 1921 Peace Dollars >>
Yes, Peace dollars are tough. My feeling on that series is that the valuation should be more tightly bound to the eye appeal than to the technical grade.
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David
I do not collect $2.5 and $5 Indians and find them challenging, shield nickels are also a more difficult series for me. Walkers can be difficult in the AU-MS61-2 range. Colonials require knowledge about strike.
On the other hand, trimes were listed by a number of you as difficult but pretty straight forward for my eye ( although NGC grades then 0.5-1 point higher than PCGS in upper mint states and proofs). Some 3CN dates can be difficult to distiguish MS from PR. In fact I have sent several coins in for regrades and had them return in an upgrade but switched from MS to PR and vise versa.
I did take my 2.50 1911 Indian Gold to 3 different shops with me and while there asked for their grade opinion. 3 Shops and a total of 4 different people looked at the coin and their professional opinions varied from Fine to MS62? Just made me more confused. It's off at PCGS now so we'll see who was closest.
<< <i>Standing Liberty Quarter.
Part of my problem is that the circulated ones mostly look like crap to me unless it's a 1916.
Bill,
I couldn't agree with you more. I have collected SLQ's for many years and have assembled a few sets. I have no problem grading everything up to AU58, and I can grade all 63 - thru - 68's. The real problem I have is inbetween grades like MS 61 & 62. Most of the 61's should be in a 60 holder, and the few 62's I've seen could slide into a 63 holder.
Many images I see on line seem to mask rub on the leading leg making many think the coin look MS; you really have to grade the SLQ in hand and never rely on images.
~~~~~~~~~~~~
Coin collecting is not a hobby, it's an obsession !
New Barber Purchases
and they're cold.
I don't want nobody to shoot me in the foxhole."
Mary
Best Franklin Website
Which series is toughest to grade?
The one you don't collect
FrederickCoinClub
What is now proved was once only imagined. - William Blake
<< <i>I have a lot of trouble with Yap money - they're all holed, and its next to impossible to figure out what constitutes luster on something made of stone. >>
Wouldn't Yap money be considered "slabs"?
An authorized PCGS dealer, and a contributor to the Red Book.
Overland Trail Collection Showcase
Dahlonega Type Set-2008 PCGS Best Exhibited Set
Here's an image of Yap money for those who don't know.
What is now proved was once only imagined. - William Blake
Shamika, I think there are two distinctions that could be made here. The grading of some series is more art than technical. Others are more technical than art. For example, in my opinion grading early buffalo nickels is more art than technical aspects. A Jefferson nickel is more technical than art. Most people find technical grading easier than art.
Hootchiegirl, re your comment "easiest has got to be the whole barber series." That's because most of them are overgraded as well as ugly.
"Seu cabra da peste,
"Sou Mangueira......."
<< <i>To me, the most difficult series to grade are Capped Bust Halves. They're open collar coins, and especially the MS 58 - MS 63 area is a coin collector's "Lucha Libre." Even many 5s lack detail, so you really have to know what is wear (I look for luster breaks) versus sub-optimal strike.
Hootchiegirl, re your comment "easiest has got to be the whole barber series." That's because most of them are overgraded as well as ugly. >>
********
~~~~~~~~~~~~
Coin collecting is not a hobby, it's an obsession !
New Barber Purchases
<< <i>Shamika, I think there are two distinctions that could be made here. The grading of some series is more art than technical. Others are more technical than art. For example, in my opinion grading early buffalo nickels is more art than technical aspects. A Jefferson nickel is more technical than art. Most people find technical grading easier than art. >>
Yes, I'd have to agree.