MS66 and MS67, when it comes right down to it...
dizzyfoxx
Posts: 9,823 ✭✭✭
...what exactly and specifically are the typical differences between a MS66 and a MS67 graded coin??? I have looked at many, many coins that were graded at either tier and for the most part the differences, if any, were so incredibly subtle. In addition, I hear so much about "crack outs" for the next higher grade and that "this 66 should be a 67", or "this 66 WILL be a 67 on the right day". I would just like to hear some of the specifics and technical attributes that members of this forum feel are required without question to achieve a MS67 grade? To put it another way, what does a coin typically possess that will most likely keep it from a MS67 all day long, but is certainly within the realm of a MS66? Is eye-appeal one of the biggest factors to tip the "teeter totter" towards the 67 grade?
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Comments
Russ, NCNE
be quite right or the die's a little worn. There will be some ticks and light marking and
maybe some minor planchet flaws. A Ch Gem (MS-66) will be the same but with a better
strike and less marking. Stike weakness seems to be more forgivable than marking.
A superb gem (MS-67) is choice in every way. Marking can be present but must be very
small and very shallow. Strike should be sharp and luster booming.
Tom
Chris
My Collection of Old Holders
Never a slave to one plastic brand will I ever be.
<< <i>luster really is the key >>
Any marks, ticks, abrasions, etc. must be well hidden and near invisible.
That which distinguishes a 66 from a 67 in one case might not come into play at all in another. The difference could be due to any one (or more) of a number of different factors, each of which plays a part in the overall grade assigned.
There are dull 67's and bright 66's. There are beautifully toned 66's and color-free 67's. There are hazy 67's and crystal clear 66's. There are relatively baggy 67's and cleaner 66's. In each case, there are one or more other/different considerations which override the aforementioned differences.
Sorry folks, but there is not one common factor that makes the difference between a 66 and a 67, or between any other two grades, for that matter.
A 7 should be 'there.' There's typically a huge price jump between a 6 & a 7. IMO, if you see a Liberty Nickel in a 7 holder whose luster doesn't jump out at you and / or it has a tick mark or two which you can easily see with the naked eye, or if the lt. corn or star 7 is flat, the coin is overgraded.
Re SLQs, the nice 6s I've seen have a tick mark or two (typically on Miss Liberty's body) that 7s don't have. The luster / eye appeal on 6s & 7s IMO should be superior.
"Seu cabra da peste,
"Sou Mangueira......."
<< <i>I also think it helps to be a big submitter. >>
Thats whats wrong with TPG's.
<< <i>Dizzyfoxx, I believe you and others are trying to generalize something that can't possibly be generalized.
That which distinguishes a 66 from a 67 in one case might not come into play at all in another. The difference could be due to any one (or more) of a number of different factors, each of which plays a part in the overall grade assigned.
There are dull 67's and bright 66's. There are beautifully toned 66's and color-free 67's. There are hazy 67's and crystal clear 66's. There are relatively baggy 67's and cleaner 66's. In each case, there are one or more other/different considerations which override the aforementioned differences.
Sorry folks, but there is not one common factor that makes the difference between a 66 and a 67, or between any other two grades, for that matter. >>
Start by seeing if it's a 70
If not, see if it's a 69
If not, see if it's a 68
If not, see if it's a 67
If not, see if it's a 66
Yes - stop. It's a 66
That's the difference
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