MS66 and MS67, when it comes right down to it...

dizzyfoxx

...what exactly and specifically are the typical differences between a MS66 and a MS67 graded coin??? I have looked at many, many coins that were graded at either tier and for the most part the differences, if any, were so incredibly subtle. In addition, I hear so much about "crack outs" for the next higher grade and that "this 66 should be a 67", or "this 66 WILL be a 67 on the right day". I would just like to hear some of the specifics and technical attributes that members of this forum feel are required without question to achieve a MS67 grade? To put it another way, what does a coin typically possess that will most likely keep it from a MS67 all day long, but is certainly within the realm of a MS66? Is eye-appeal one of the biggest factors to tip the "teeter totter" towards the 67 grade?

ER

66 one day could be 67 another day, and vice versa.

Russ

An MS67 has "the look", and an MS66 doesn't.

Russ, NCNE

cladking

In clads a gem is an essentially perfect coin with a few little problems. The strike won't
be quite right or the die's a little worn. There will be some ticks and light marking and
maybe some minor planchet flaws. A Ch Gem (MS-66) will be the same but with a better
strike and less marking. Stike weakness seems to be more forgivable than marking.

A superb gem (MS-67) is choice in every way. Marking can be present but must be very
small and very shallow. Strike should be sharp and luster booming.

tjkillian

I only know of 19th century coins of this category. MS-66 look NICE!!, an MS-67 just jumps out at you and bites your head off.

Tom

FatMan

It is often a tough call for me too. With commems, (I assume that is what you have been looking at) when you get to higher grades luster really is the key. A 67 should exhibit amazing luster for the type. Ticks count too, a 66 can have a couple. A 67 should be near tick free. But tick free without the big luster won't make 67.

coinbuf

I pretty much agree with fatman, luster is the number one difference between 66 and 67. I also think it helps to be a big submitter.

Chris

LeeG

<< <i>luster really is the key >>






Any marks, ticks, abrasions, etc. must be well hidden and near invisible.

tcmitssr

With commems, the differences between 66 and 67 are subtle, yet striking. Being a very serious commem collector, I agree a little more with Russ in that it is "the look" more than the folks who say "luster". 66s come ever, ever, ever so close but just don't make it. The complete package just knocks your socks off with a real 67. It's luster, it's toning (or non dipped bright white), it's strike...in short, it is "the look".

coinguy1

Dizzyfoxx, I believe you and others are trying to generalize something that can't possibly be generalized.

That which distinguishes a 66 from a 67 in one case might not come into play at all in another. The difference could be due to any one (or more) of a number of different factors, each of which plays a part in the overall grade assigned.

There are dull 67's and bright 66's. There are beautifully toned 66's and color-free 67's. There are hazy 67's and crystal clear 66's. There are relatively baggy 67's and cleaner 66's. In each case, there are one or more other/different considerations which override the aforementioned differences.

Sorry folks, but there is not one common factor that makes the difference between a 66 and a 67, or between any other two grades, for that matter.

cladking

CoinGuy1: Are your comments equally applicable to moderns? Specifically clad?

CarlWohlforth

One factor doesn't even make the same grade. ANACS used to grade each side by 4 different criteria. People didn't like it as they wanted it boiled down to one grade. Anyway I'd say think of the difference between a 65 and a 67. That is all there used to be. Anyway look at that difference. A 66 is in between.

Elcontador

With Liberty Nickels, expect a small tick mark or two (often on the V or in the field above it) on a properly graded 6. If you don't have these tick marks, the surfaces can be outstanding - ie., a full lt. corn, complete stars on the obverse and no weak spots in Miss Liberty's hair -- but the luster is only good, not really great. A 6 with attractive luster typically has the aforementioned tick marks, or perhaps a flat lt corn (this is fairly common) and star 7 is often flat. Sometimes, other stars are also weakly struck.

A 7 should be 'there.' There's typically a huge price jump between a 6 & a 7. IMO, if you see a Liberty Nickel in a 7 holder whose luster doesn't jump out at you and / or it has a tick mark or two which you can easily see with the naked eye, or if the lt. corn or star 7 is flat, the coin is overgraded.

Re SLQs, the nice 6s I've seen have a tick mark or two (typically on Miss Liberty's body) that 7s don't have. The luster / eye appeal on 6s & 7s IMO should be superior.

DickyBetz

<< <i>I also think it helps to be a big submitter. >>



Thats whats wrong with TPG's.

mozin

<< <i>Dizzyfoxx, I believe you and others are trying to generalize something that can't possibly be generalized.

That which distinguishes a 66 from a 67 in one case might not come into play at all in another. The difference could be due to any one (or more) of a number of different factors, each of which plays a part in the overall grade assigned.

There are dull 67's and bright 66's. There are beautifully toned 66's and color-free 67's. There are hazy 67's and crystal clear 66's. There are relatively baggy 67's and cleaner 66's. In each case, there are one or more other/different considerations which override the aforementioned differences.

Sorry folks, but there is not one common factor that makes the difference between a 66 and a 67, or between any other two grades, for that matter. >>

Right on!

relayer

Start by seeing if it's a 70
If not, see if it's a 69
If not, see if it's a 68
If not, see if it's a 67
If not, see if it's a 66
Yes - stop. It's a 66

That's the difference