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What grade (s) do you prefer collecting?

WildWestHalfDollarsWildWestHalfDollars Posts: 7,101 ✭✭✭✭✭
edited July 28, 2026 1:19PM in U.S. Coin Forum

In my case G-04 to F-12 with the rare exception of details grades in the same grade ranges. I would also go up to max VF-20 if I cannot locate a nice enough coin. I truly like coins that circulated and still have nice eye appeal.

Liberty Seated Half Dollars

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    GoobGoob Posts: 537 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Depends on the coin and how rare it is but I like to get 62-65 whenever possible for Morgans mainly and then just get whatever I can (comfortably) afford for anything else

    "Another day, another Collectors Universe forum scrolling session."
    - Someone, probably

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    BigFrankieBigFrankie Posts: 44 ✭✭

    Liberty Seated Dimes VF20 - AU58 (will drop below VF20 as needed)
    Buffalo Nickels XF45- AU58, MS63
    Standing Liberty Quarters AU50-58. MS 63-64
    Two Cents PC- AU55-58, MS63-64
    Liberty Nickels MS63-64

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    Morgan13Morgan13 Posts: 2,640 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited July 30, 2026 4:00PM

    MS64-66 usually with exception of ANACS photograde, I like MS65 Morgans.
    I do own 1 MS67.

    Student of numismatics and collector of Morgan dollars
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    lcutlerlcutler Posts: 743 ✭✭✭✭

    With colonials sometimes you just take what you can get, there aren't always options!

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    The_Dinosaur_ManThe_Dinosaur_Man Posts: 1,577 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Half dimes start as hole fillers, then I'll upgrade as I'm able to. I have just 15 left to find from the main run of 1829 to 1873.

    Custom album maker and numismatic photographer.
    Need a personalized album made? Design it on the website below and I'll build it for you.
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    johnny9434johnny9434 Posts: 33,352 ✭✭✭✭✭

    35 - 55, 64 -67 grades. Its all good πŸ‘

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    CircOnlyCircOnly Posts: 2,215 ✭✭✭✭

    My core collecting zone is VF-XF.

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    coinbufcoinbuf Posts: 12,539 ✭✭✭✭✭

    67+ or better, unfortunately my budget seldom cooperates with those levels.

    My Lincoln Registry
    My Collection of Old Holders

    Never a slave to one plastic brand will I ever be.
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    BillJonesBillJones Posts: 35,889 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited July 28, 2026 3:05PM

    Here’s is my list by U.S. coin category:

    Early 1792 to 1840s AU, but very expense non gold types, the best I can afford. I don’t buy low grade gold below EF

    1850 to 1891 MS-63-64, Proof, at least PR-64, but no higher than 65

    1890s to date Choice Unc and Proof

    Retired dealer and avid collector of U.S. type coins, 19th century presidential campaign medalets and selected medals. In recent years I have been working on a set of British coins - at least one coin from each king or queen who issued pieces that are collectible. I am also collecting at least one coin for each Roman emperor from Julius Caesar to ... ?
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    oldabeintxoldabeintx Posts: 3,180 ✭✭✭✭✭

    The most attractive that fits what I want to spend and what’s reasonably available. For US federal this boils down generally to 64 or better for 20th century, 55 or better for latter half of 19th century, VF or better for early 20th century and VG or better for 18th century. Colonial VF or better, Pioneer gold XF or better. World similar to US but very tolerant earlier than 18th century as availability becomes a real issue, details grades sometimes ok. All are type coins, all are slabs, and don’t care about any registry or pops.

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    Cougar1978Cougar1978 Posts: 9,988 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited July 28, 2026 4:24PM

    Generally prefer investment grade MS64 or higher. Material. However I might buy a lower grade Like AU or XF for expensive type material.

    For bullion coins like slabbed MS 69-70.

    Investor
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    pursuitoflibertypursuitofliberty Posts: 7,887 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I've been stuck in what would be the AU53 to AU58 grades for so long, they didn't even have numbers back then. It's been ChAU and VChAU for much of my primary collections.

    And while some of the later series gravitated into Ch/Gem Unc's, and I have a sprinkling of VF to Superb Gems, it really has been that hunt for nice 55/58's for most coins as long as I can remember.


    β€œWe are only their care-takers,” he posed, β€œif we take good care of them, then centuries from now they may still be here … ”

    Todd - BHNC #242
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    lkeneficlkenefic Posts: 9,484 ✭✭✭✭✭

    It depends on what your collecting goals are for any given set. For me, my 7070 was done in mostly XF - AU. ..although I do have a couple of VF coins (Classic Head LC, and my Capped Bust Dime). My Large Cents range from AG3 Details to AU58... mostly VF - XF for the Middle and Late Dates. My Box of 20 runs VF -Details (Chopmarked) for a 1796 8-Reales to MS-65 $20 Saint.

    Collecting: Dansco 7070; Middle Date Large Cents (VF-AU); Box of 20;

    Successful BST transactions with: SilverEagles92; Ahrensdad; Smitty; GregHansen; Lablade; Mercury10c; copperflopper; whatsup; KISHU1; scrapman1077, crispy, canadanz, smallchange, robkool, Mission16, ranshdow, ibzman350, Fallguy, Collectorcoins, SurfinxHI, jwitten, Walkerguy21D, dsessom.
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    SanctionIISanctionII Posts: 13,117 ✭✭✭✭✭

    PF67 and better for 1936-1970 Proof and SMS coinage, preferably with a CAM or DCAM designation and/or multi colored toning.

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    Dave99BDave99B Posts: 8,931 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I prefer crusty VF/XF material. Coins that have been around the block. I collect mint state examples as well, but there’s something magical about middle grades.

    Dave

    Always looking for original, better date VF20-VF35 Barber quarters and halves, and a quality beer.
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    124Spider124Spider Posts: 1,262 ✭✭✭✭✭

    For me, it's completely a matter of economics (except for certain very old coins).

    I like high grade coins, but, for all but the most common coins, I rarely buy above MS64. As they get more expensive, I'm often quite happy with AU58. The more expensive the coin is, the lower the grade I can/will buy. But I want the coin to look good to me, even if not in high grade.

    The key exception to this is that old coins (where old is ancients and colonials) take on, for me, a romance for having circulated at famous times (think, e.g., the golde age of Athens; during George Washington's presidency, so some honest circulation for those is a must.

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    MEJ7070MEJ7070 Posts: 915 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I only collect business strikes……but I try to be quite flexible on grade range.

    Some of my worst coin purchases were because I was too fixated on finding certain dates in certain grades…..took me a long time to realize I was much happier with an appealing original 45 than a washed out 58, and ditto with a nice original 58 over a duller 64 and so on.

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    johnny9434johnny9434 Posts: 33,352 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @asheland said:
    For me, all grades can be quite beautiful if they are original and just have that β€œlookβ€œ

    Typically, I like Gem 65 and up, but I have coins as low as fine-12 and all of them are quite beautiful to me…

    In no particular order, here are a few that I am very fond of:

    I got the 1807 bust half as well. Nice coins πŸͺ™

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    TallahasseeCoinClubTallahasseeCoinClub Posts: 426 ✭✭✭✭

    My target grade range for most sets is EF to AU. Frequently though, budget requires me to fall back into the VF, or even Fine range for some really tough coins (for example, 1801 and 1802 half-dollars).

    Official PCGS account of:

    www.TallahasseeCoinClub.com

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    WorldTypeSetWorldTypeSet Posts: 1,365 ✭✭✭✭

    1800 to date: 65 or higher
    1700-1799: 64 or higher
    1699 and earlier: 63 or higher

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    privatecoinprivatecoin Posts: 3,828 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Depends on the series for me.

    Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value. Zero. Voltaire. Ebay coinbowlllc

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    mr1931Smr1931S Posts: 7,165 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @jmlanzaf said:
    No limits. 0 to 70.

    Grade 0 (zero) is non-existent on the Sheldon scale.

    β€œPeople like to know you're listening, and something as simple as a clarification question shows not only that you are listening but that you also care about what they're saying.”---Travis Bradberry

    This quote reflects the idea that clarification is not just about resolving confusion, but also about deepening understanding, shaping thought, and fostering better communication.

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    TallahasseeCoinClubTallahasseeCoinClub Posts: 426 ✭✭✭✭

    @mr1931S said:

    @jmlanzaf said:
    No limits. 0 to 70.

    Grade 0 (zero) is non-existent on the Sheldon scale.

    Still collectable for some, though!

    Official PCGS account of:

    www.TallahasseeCoinClub.com

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    jfriedm56jfriedm56 Posts: 3,102 ✭✭✭✭✭

    For me, just to list a few:
    Indian Head Cents-MS65RB
    Lincoln Cents-MS65RB to MS66RD
    Buffalo Nickels MS65 to MS67
    Standing Liberty Quarters MS65-MS66FH
    Type Set-Attractive MS61- MS67
    Proof Coins of 1936-1942 Proof 67 CAC
    And finally:
    Classic Commems, attractive MS65 to MS67, with or without CAC.
    Zack. All in PCGS holders.

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    bammbammbammbamm Posts: 166 ✭✭✭

    I do not collect by grade.

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    coastaljerseyguycoastaljerseyguy Posts: 2,109 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I like @asheland response, all grades can be beautiful if they are original and have eye appeal. For my Morgan collection they go from G4 (93-S) to 65. But as a lot of posters noted, there is something about a true AU58 that was a gem/near gem when uncirculated and only has slight rub and not dipped.

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    Batman23Batman23 Posts: 5,390 ✭✭✭✭✭

    My preferred grade is AU55/AU58 for older coins and key dates. The AU58 prices have increased so much that I now consider XF45s more frequently.
    For common classics, MS65/66
    For moderns, MS67

    I do like the look of some of the older VF coins. My budget isn't very big, I need to get out of my AU58 rut and expand my options.

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    seatedlib3991seatedlib3991 Posts: 1,616 ✭✭✭✭✭

    My current focus is on Barber coins, Dimes in particular, and in the old ANACS soap box holders. I have been trying to stay in the EF/AU grades but would have to consider a lower grade if rarer dates were to come on the market. James

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    WildWestHalfDollarsWildWestHalfDollars Posts: 7,101 ✭✭✭✭✭

    AU 55-58 seems popular.

    Liberty Seated Half Dollars

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    TennesseeDaveTennesseeDave Posts: 4,910 ✭✭✭✭✭

    My main collection is a set of Trade $ that range from VF-25 to AU-58. But any grade can have eye appeal as seen by some of the coins above, especially the 1806 F-12 quarter and 1807 F-12 half dollar.

    Trade $'s
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    cccoinscccoins Posts: 302 ✭✭✭✭

    When I put together my 110 piece Carson City set I focused on P45 with a CAC sticker. Of the 110 pieces, about 100 were P40 / P45, and 60 or so were P45 CAC. It was a reasonably well matched set.

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    mr1931Smr1931S Posts: 7,165 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @TallahasseeCoinClub said:

    @mr1931S said:

    @jmlanzaf said:
    No limits. 0 to 70.

    Grade 0 (zero) is non-existent on the Sheldon scale.

    Still collectable for some, though!

    I've got a few culls in my own collection but I don't call them grade 0. It seems jmlanzaf either misspoke or has been under the impression that the Sheldon scale starts with grade zero.

    β€œPeople like to know you're listening, and something as simple as a clarification question shows not only that you are listening but that you also care about what they're saying.”---Travis Bradberry

    This quote reflects the idea that clarification is not just about resolving confusion, but also about deepening understanding, shaping thought, and fostering better communication.

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    ashelandasheland Posts: 24,545 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @johnny9434 said:

    @asheland said:
    For me, all grades can be quite beautiful if they are original and just have that β€œlookβ€œ

    Typically, I like Gem 65 and up, but I have coins as low as fine-12 and all of them are quite beautiful to me…

    In no particular order, here are a few that I am very fond of:

    I got the 1807 bust half as well. Nice coins πŸͺ™

    Thanks! B)

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    WalkerfanWalkerfan Posts: 10,350 ✭✭✭✭✭

    It really depends on the series.

    1. Early walkers 63 and 64, as the spread to 65 is huge, so I like to cherry pick the choice examples.

    2. Intermediate walkers 65 and 66.

    3. Short set walkers 66 and 67

    4. Seated dollars 61 to 63.

    5. Standing quarters 64 and 65.

    6. Morgans 63 and 64. You can cherry pick those, as well.

    7. Though I never got into Saints; I liked them at 64.

    8. Buffalo nickels 64 and 65.

    9. Mercury dimes also 64 and 65.

    That is just my personal opinion and your mileage may vary.

    Sometimes, it’s better to be LUCKY than good. πŸ€ πŸΊπŸ‘

    My Full Walker Registry Set (1916-1947):

    https://www.ngccoin.com/registry/competitive-sets/16292/

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    CatbertCatbert Posts: 8,238 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @TomB said:
    I buy coins I like and understand.

    This. There is a lot to unpack in this compelling statement that the OP could reflect upon. Notice it doesn’t speak to grade designations.

    Seated Half Society member #38

    "She comes out of the sun in a silk dress,
    running like a water color in the rain...."
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    edwardjulioedwardjulio Posts: 1,289 ✭✭✭✭✭

    This is one I like. WB-3a

    End Systemic Elitism - It Takes All of Us
    ANA LM, LSCC, EAC, FUN

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    DarkStarDarkStar Posts: 481 ✭✭✭✭✭

    For MS, 63 - 67
    For PR, 64 - 67

    These are the ranges for the type of eye appeal that I look for. And can afford.

    There are 10 types of people in the world, those who understand binary and those who do not.

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    GoldFinger1969GoldFinger1969 Posts: 3,439 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I have a few Saints and Libertys......they are common or semi-commons for the most part.....I try and target MS-66 but at times I have to drop the level.

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    oih82w8oih82w8 Posts: 13,136 ✭✭✭✭✭

    With my Everyman Type Set, my goal was AU58 on 19th Century and MS on the 20th Century

    oih82w8 = Oh I Hate To Wait _defectus patientia_aka...Dr. Defecto - Curator of RMO's

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    TrampTramp Posts: 976 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Depends on series and type but generally
    MS64 and PR66. However, the more modern then I find myself pursuing even finer grades MS68 and PR70.

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    Steven59Steven59 Posts: 11,141 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited August 4, 2026 9:23PM

    Really what ever I can afford -

    "When they can't find anything wrong with you, they create it!"

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