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What grade (s) do you prefer collecting?

WildWestHalfDollarsWildWestHalfDollars Posts: 7,067 ✭✭✭✭✭
edited July 28, 2026 1:19PM in U.S. Coin Forum

In my case G-04 to F-12 with the rare exception of details grades in the same grade ranges. I would also go up to max VF-20 if I cannot locate a nice enough coin. I truly like coins that circulated and still have nice eye appeal.

Liberty Seated Half Dollars

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    GoobGoob Posts: 489 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Depends on the coin and how rare it is but I like to get 62-65 whenever possible for Morgans mainly and then just get whatever I can (comfortably) afford for anything else

    "Another day, another Collectors Universe forum scrolling session."
    - Someone, probably

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    Liberty Seated Dimes VF20 - AU58 (will drop below VF20 as needed)
    Buffalo Nickels XF45- AU58, MS63
    Standing Liberty Quarters AU50-58. MS 63-64
    Two Cents PC- AU55-58, MS63-64
    Liberty Nickels MS63-64

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    jmlanzafjmlanzaf Posts: 41,931 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited July 28, 2026 1:34PM

    No limits. 0 to 70.

    All comments reflect the opinion of the author, even when irrefutably accurate.

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    Morgan13Morgan13 Posts: 2,570 ✭✭✭✭✭

    MS64-66 usually with exception of ANACS photograde, I like MS65 Morgans.

    Student of numismatics and collector of Morgan dollars
    Successful BST transactions with: Namvet Justindan Mattniss RWW olah_in_MA
    Dantheman984 Toyz4geo SurfinxHI greencopper RWW bigjpst bretsan MWallace logger7 JWP BruceS bigjpst
    JWP PROMETHIUS88

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    lcutlerlcutler Posts: 739 ✭✭✭✭

    With colonials sometimes you just take what you can get, there aren't always options!

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    The_Dinosaur_ManThe_Dinosaur_Man Posts: 1,540 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Half dimes start as hole fillers, then I'll upgrade as I'm able to. I have just 15 left to find from the main run of 1829 to 1873.

    Custom album maker and numismatic photographer.
    Need a personalized album made? Design it on the website below and I'll build it for you.
    https://www.donahuenumismatics.com/.

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    johnny9434johnny9434 Posts: 32,823 ✭✭✭✭✭

    35 - 55, 64 -67 grades. Its all good 👍

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    CatbertCatbert Posts: 8,215 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Those that have strong eye appeal for the grade - VF to UNC

    Seated Half Society member #38

    "She comes out of the sun in a silk dress,
    running like a water color in the rain...."
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    CircOnlyCircOnly Posts: 2,214 ✭✭✭✭

    My core collecting zone is VF-XF.

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    coinbufcoinbuf Posts: 12,499 ✭✭✭✭✭

    67+ or better, unfortunately my budget seldom cooperates with those levels.

    My Lincoln Registry
    My Collection of Old Holders

    Never a slave to one plastic brand will I ever be.
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    Eldorado9Eldorado9 Posts: 2,773 ✭✭✭✭✭

    67+ Cam or better with the Barber proofs

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    BillJonesBillJones Posts: 35,835 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited July 28, 2026 3:05PM

    Here’s is my list by U.S. coin category:

    Early 1792 to 1840s AU, but very expense non gold types, the best I can afford. I don’t buy low grade gold below EF

    1850 to 1891 MS-63-64, Proof, at least PR-64, but no higher than 65

    1890s to date Choice Unc and Proof

    Retired dealer and avid collector of U.S. type coins, 19th century presidential campaign medalets and selected medals. In recent years I have been working on a set of British coins - at least one coin from each king or queen who issued pieces that are collectible. I am also collecting at least one coin for each Roman emperor from Julius Caesar to ... ?
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    oldabeintxoldabeintx Posts: 3,140 ✭✭✭✭✭

    The most attractive that fits what I want to spend and what’s reasonably available. For US federal this boils down generally to 64 or better for 20th century, 55 or better for latter half of 19th century, VF or better for early 20th century and VG or better for 18th century. Colonial VF or better, Pioneer gold XF or better. World similar to US but very tolerant earlier than 18th century as availability becomes a real issue, details grades sometimes ok. All are type coins, all are slabs, and don’t care about any registry or pops.

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    Cougar1978Cougar1978 Posts: 9,843 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited July 28, 2026 4:24PM

    Generally prefer investment grade MS64 or higher. Material. However I might buy a lower grade Like AU or XF for expensive type material.

    For bullion coins like slabbed MS 69-70.

    Investor
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    pursuitoflibertypursuitofliberty Posts: 7,860 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I've been stuck in what would be the AU53 to AU58 grades for so long, they didn't even have numbers back then. It's been ChAU and VChAU for much of my primary collections.

    And while some of the later series gravitated into Ch/Gem Unc's, and I have a sprinkling of VF to Superb Gems, it really has been that hunt for nice 55/58's for most coins as long as I can remember.


    “We are only their care-takers,” he posed, “if we take good care of them, then centuries from now they may still be here … ”

    Todd - BHNC #242
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    lkeneficlkenefic Posts: 9,390 ✭✭✭✭✭

    It depends on what your collecting goals are for any given set. For me, my 7070 was done in mostly XF - AU. ..although I do have a couple of VF coins (Classic Head LC, and my Capped Bust Dime). My Large Cents range from AG3 Details to AU58... mostly VF - XF for the Middle and Late Dates. My Box of 20 runs VF -Details (Chopmarked) for a 1796 8-Reales to MS-65 $20 Saint.

    Collecting: Dansco 7070; Middle Date Large Cents (VF-AU); Box of 20;

    Successful BST transactions with: SilverEagles92; Ahrensdad; Smitty; GregHansen; Lablade; Mercury10c; copperflopper; whatsup; KISHU1; scrapman1077, crispy, canadanz, smallchange, robkool, Mission16, ranshdow, ibzman350, Fallguy, Collectorcoins, SurfinxHI, jwitten, Walkerguy21D, dsessom.
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    SanctionIISanctionII Posts: 13,044 ✭✭✭✭✭

    PF67 and better for 1936-1970 Proof and SMS coinage, preferably with a CAM or DCAM designation and/or multi colored toning.

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    Dave99BDave99B Posts: 8,925 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I prefer crusty VF/XF material. Coins that have been around the block. I collect mint state examples as well, but there’s something magical about middle grades.

    Dave

    Always looking for original, better date VF20-VF35 Barber quarters and halves, and a quality beer.
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    TomBTomB Posts: 23,029 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I buy coins I like and understand.

    Thomas Bush Numismatics & Numismatic Photography

    In honor of the memory of Cpl. Michael E. Thompson

    image
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    124Spider124Spider Posts: 1,231 ✭✭✭✭✭

    For me, it's completely a matter of economics (except for certain very old coins).

    I like high grade coins, but, for all but the most common coins, I rarely buy above MS64. As they get more expensive, I'm often quite happy with AU58. The more expensive the coin is, the lower the grade I can/will buy. But I want the coin to look good to me, even if not in high grade.

    The key exception to this is that old coins (where old is ancients and colonials) take on, for me, a romance for having circulated at famous times (think, e.g., the golde age of Athens; during George Washington's presidency, so some honest circulation for those is a must.

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    MEJ7070MEJ7070 Posts: 891 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I only collect business strikes……but I try to be quite flexible on grade range.

    Some of my worst coin purchases were because I was too fixated on finding certain dates in certain grades…..took me a long time to realize I was much happier with an appealing original 45 than a washed out 58, and ditto with a nice original 58 over a duller 64 and so on.

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    CharlotteDudeCharlotteDude Posts: 3,299 ✭✭✭✭✭

    For me, it’s not so much about the number as it is the coin’s eye appeal, but if I had to give a range, it would be the AU-55 to AU-58 range.

    Got Crust....y gold?
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    johnny9434johnny9434 Posts: 32,823 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @asheland said:
    For me, all grades can be quite beautiful if they are original and just have that “look“

    Typically, I like Gem 65 and up, but I have coins as low as fine-12 and all of them are quite beautiful to me…

    In no particular order, here are a few that I am very fond of:

    I got the 1807 bust half as well. Nice coins 🪙

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