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What is the most sought after US coin that may be expensive but still within reach?

MidLifeCrisisMidLifeCrisis Posts: 10,553 ✭✭✭✭✭

Sought after but attainable...I'm looking for specifics...not just a Morgan Dollar or $20 Saint. Among colonial collectors, it might be a Noe-1 Pine Tree Shilling. What about US coins? Is it the 09-S VDB Lincoln Cent? That's the first coin I thought of.

Comments

  • Project NumismaticsProject Numismatics Posts: 1,701 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Everyone has a different definition of attainable depending on their financial circumstances and comfort level.

    A better question might be - What is the most popular (i.e. in demand) coin at $[X] price point.

  • MidLifeCrisisMidLifeCrisis Posts: 10,553 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @Project Numismatics said:
    Everyone has a different definition of attainable depending on their financial circumstances and comfort level.

    A better question might be - What is the most popular (i.e. in demand) coin at $[X] price point.

    Good point, thanks. But I didn't want to define a price. I was thinking something like "I want a ________ and even though I can only afford one in a very low grade, I still want one", or "I want a Chain Cent and, even though they are all expensive, I'm willing to save or trade up for it".

  • privatecoinprivatecoin Posts: 3,649 ✭✭✭✭✭

    A gold Kennedy for me some day.

    Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value. Zero. Voltaire. Ebay coinbowlllc

  • jmlanzafjmlanzaf Posts: 36,740 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @MidLifeCrisis said:

    @Project Numismatics said:
    Everyone has a different definition of attainable depending on their financial circumstances and comfort level.

    A better question might be - What is the most popular (i.e. in demand) coin at $[X] price point.

    Good point, thanks. But I didn't want to define a price. I was thinking something like "I want a ________ and even though I can only afford one in a very low grade, I still want one", or "I want a Chain Cent and, even though they are all expensive, I'm willing to save or trade up for it".

    People on this forum have bought $10 million coins. @Project Numismatics has a valid point. To other people, the thought of spending $1000 on a coin seems like a reach. The question is unanswerable without parameters.

    Even in your answer to Project Numismatics, you used the word "expensive". Some people never spend over $100 on a coin and that seems "expensive ". Other people consider a VF SVDB to be inexpensive at $1000ish.

  • TwoSides2aCoinTwoSides2aCoin Posts: 44,621 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited August 16, 2025 6:42PM

    I have a couple ideas, but mum is the word.

  • oldabeintxoldabeintx Posts: 2,462 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Half disme is at the top of my list. Need to be patient as cost and availability are both in play.

  • OAKSTAROAKSTAR Posts: 8,226 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I'm probably missing the point here but it's all subjective.

    Disclaimer: I'm not a dealer, trader, grader, investor or professional numismatist. I'm just a hobbyist. (To protect me but mostly you! 🤣 )

  • OAKSTAROAKSTAR Posts: 8,226 ✭✭✭✭✭

    A quick google search pulled this up. I don't believe it though! How many of us are looking for or would like to purchase a 1913 V Nickel? 🤣 😂

    Disclaimer: I'm not a dealer, trader, grader, investor or professional numismatist. I'm just a hobbyist. (To protect me but mostly you! 🤣 )

  • CatbertCatbert Posts: 7,631 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @OAKSTAR said:

    @david3142 said:
    I think you are correct that the 09-S VDB is the answer.

    Maybe even a 55-DDO.

    This! Broader interest than the VDB, I’m thinking.

    Seated Half Society member #38
    "Got a flaming heart, can't get my fill"
  • jfriedm56jfriedm56 Posts: 2,183 ✭✭✭✭✭

    2 that come to mind for me, would be #1-a 1916-D MS65 SB Merc. and a 1916 SLQ in 65FH, both CAC.

  • RelaxnRelaxn Posts: 1,103 ✭✭✭✭✭

    1921 St Gaudens

    Wife wants a Proof St. Gaudens

    There are some amazing rarities from the Abe Kosoff collection that I have studied. Many been off the market since his collections sold... territorial Gold

    Hansen has the Clapp 1914-s Barber Quarter that I bought as an MS65 in 2009 and upgraded to 66+ and is now a top pop... I would like that coin back.

    1901 Obverse Proof Buffalo Large Note

  • BAJJERFANBAJJERFAN Posts: 31,330 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @BillJones said:
    How about the 1893-S dollar. If the grade is low enough, many collectors can afford one. There is nothing scarce about it. At one of the last shows I attended as a tabled dealer, one dealer had 14 of them in grades from VG to AU. They were all certified.

    At another show, a dealer had over 75, 1909-S-VDB cents, all NGC certified in VG to AU. Once more, they are not rare, just expensive.

    Dr. Sheldon wrote in Penny Whimsy that the S-1, the AMERI. variety, was common enough that any seriously enamored collector could acquire one. Those days have long passed.

    Except that 100,000 collectors wanting one couldn't all have one.

    theknowitalltroll;
  • emeraldATVemeraldATV Posts: 4,937 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Which ever would be a most sought after coin, might just include it's own skin style, sought after the mint process.

  • TiborTibor Posts: 3,693 ✭✭✭✭✭

    In the nice circulated grade, XF/AU, 09-S VDB, 16-D Merc, and 16 SLQ. I'm sure there are others.

  • BoosibriBoosibri Posts: 12,406 ✭✭✭✭✭

    My reach may be a different than the next man, but my willingness to stretch is certainly greater.

  • DisneyFanDisneyFan Posts: 2,484 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @asheland said:
    One of my favorites and not overly expensive.

    I went cheap and bought a proof.

  • CatbertCatbert Posts: 7,631 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @Boosibri said:
    My reach may be a different than the next man, but my willingness to stretch is certainly greater.

    A man whose reach exceeds his grasp!

    Seated Half Society member #38
    "Got a flaming heart, can't get my fill"
  • jmlanzafjmlanzaf Posts: 36,740 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @4Redisin said:

    @jmlanzaf said:

    @MidLifeCrisis said:

    @Project Numismatics said:
    Everyone has a different definition of attainable depending on their financial circumstances and comfort level.

    A better question might be - What is the most popular (i.e. in demand) coin at $[X] price point.

    Good point, thanks. But I didn't want to define a price. I was thinking something like "I want a ________ and even though I can only afford one in a very low grade, I still want one", or "I want a Chain Cent and, even though they are all expensive, I'm willing to save or trade up for it".

    People on this forum have bought $10 million coins. @Project Numismatics has a valid point. To other people, the thought of spending $1000 on a coin seems like a reach. The question is unanswerable without parameters.

    Even in your answer to Project Numismatics, you used the word "expensive". Some people never spend over $100 on a coin and that seems "expensive ". Other people consider a VF SVDB to be inexpensive at $1000ish.

    That makes sense, so what coin would you pick? My pick would be an AU HR $20.

    I want a gold Norse. I could afford a gold Norse. I won't buy a gold Norse because the thought of putting $30k into my safe makes my skin crawl. But, of course, that doesn't answer the OP'S question which is why I didn't offer an answer.

    In fact, if i won a gold Norse for free, I'd likely sell it because putting $30k into my safe makes my skin crawl.

    Or maybe it's just psoriasis.

  • jdimmickjdimmick Posts: 9,783 ✭✭✭✭✭

    For me its an 1878-s Half or 1799 Lg cent in XF or btr.

  • BuffaloIronTailBuffaloIronTail Posts: 7,548 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited August 17, 2025 12:58PM

    @david3142 said:
    I think you are correct that the 09-S VDB is the answer.

    Even more so, the 1914-D Lincoln Cent at over $700.00 in XF and above.

    Judging by some of the other choices, this is a relatively cheap option.

    Pete

    "I tell them there's no problems.....only solutions" - John Lennon
  • hfjacintohfjacinto Posts: 899 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I think a few of the key dates count like an 1877 IHC, 1909 S VDB, 1916 D, even the key date walkers. All are expensive but people buy them. Heck I have all 3 raw.

  • Old_CollectorOld_Collector Posts: 383 ✭✭✭✭

    There are many choices within reach depending on your taste and length or your arms (alligator arms or Shaq). ;)

  • coinbufcoinbuf Posts: 11,849 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited August 17, 2025 3:11PM

    I have three; the only half eagle produced at the NOLA mint, the only $3 gold coin produced at the NOLA mint, and the only classic head $2 1/2 gold coin produced at the NOLA mint. You might notice a trend here. :D All are available at times however all can be rather pricey for my budget levels.

    For a majority of collectors I would pick the 09-SVDB or the 55/55 in mint state, I think those would qualify as obtainable but a stretch for some.

    @jmlanzaf said:
    Or maybe it's just psoriasis.

    This made me laugh, but I actually agree with you that having a large sum of money tied up in one coin would not be comfortable for me also. One of the reasons I likely will never own one of the three I listed.

    My Lincoln Registry
    My Collection of Old Holders

    Never a slave to one plastic brand will I ever be.
  • WCCWCC Posts: 2,895 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited August 17, 2025 3:51PM

    I'd agree the 1909-S VDB cent, or a few other 20th century key dates probably fits the definition for most US collectors as "potentially" affordable. The other would be the 95-W ASE.

    For me who does not buy any US coins, it's the 1853 US Assay Office territorial $20 gold in AU and in this instance, I'd go for a CAC even though I don't care about stickers otherwise.

    Another one would be a really nice draped bust/heraldic eagle half, XF or AU. It was the coin I wanted most as a YN because I thought I could eventually afford it (in VF).

    Other candidates would be a handful of colonials or early federal silver but in at least middle quality.

  • BAJJERFANBAJJERFAN Posts: 31,330 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @jmlanzaf said:

    @4Redisin said:

    @jmlanzaf said:

    @MidLifeCrisis said:

    @Project Numismatics said:
    Everyone has a different definition of attainable depending on their financial circumstances and comfort level.

    A better question might be - What is the most popular (i.e. in demand) coin at $[X] price point.

    Good point, thanks. But I didn't want to define a price. I was thinking something like "I want a ________ and even though I can only afford one in a very low grade, I still want one", or "I want a Chain Cent and, even though they are all expensive, I'm willing to save or trade up for it".

    People on this forum have bought $10 million coins. @Project Numismatics has a valid point. To other people, the thought of spending $1000 on a coin seems like a reach. The question is unanswerable without parameters.

    Even in your answer to Project Numismatics, you used the word "expensive". Some people never spend over $100 on a coin and that seems "expensive ". Other people consider a VF SVDB to be inexpensive at $1000ish.

    That makes sense, so what coin would you pick? My pick would be an AU HR $20.

    I want a gold Norse. I could afford a gold Norse. I won't buy a gold Norse because the thought of putting $30k into my safe makes my skin crawl. But, of course, that doesn't answer the OP'S question which is why I didn't offer an answer.

    In fact, if i won a gold Norse for free, I'd likely sell it because putting $30k into my safe makes my skin crawl.

    Or maybe it's just psoriasis.

    How about in a SDB, would that matter?

    theknowitalltroll;
  • lkeneficlkenefic Posts: 8,584 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Interesting thread... it will be answered quite a bit differently depending upon who is banging out a response! In fact, I'd be answering differently even if it was ME just 5-10 years ago responding to this question! Back then, just getting through a Type album seemed out of reach... so, I'd have probably said the Seated Dollars or a nice Classic Head LC for early copper. These days, as I'm rearranging my Box of 20, I'm looking at: a Fugio Cent, 1795 Half Dollar, and a $3 Gold. For early copper, probably a decent 1793 Flowing Hair Cent.

    Collecting: Dansco 7070; Middle Date Large Cents (VF-AU); Box of 20;

    Successful BST transactions with: SilverEagles92; Ahrensdad; Smitty; GregHansen; Lablade; Mercury10c; copperflopper; whatsup; KISHU1; scrapman1077, crispy, canadanz, smallchange, robkool, Mission16, ranshdow, ibzman350, Fallguy, Collectorcoins, SurfinxHI, jwitten, Walkerguy21D, dsessom.
  • jmlanzafjmlanzaf Posts: 36,740 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @BAJJERFAN said:

    @jmlanzaf said:

    @4Redisin said:

    @jmlanzaf said:

    @MidLifeCrisis said:

    @Project Numismatics said:
    Everyone has a different definition of attainable depending on their financial circumstances and comfort level.

    A better question might be - What is the most popular (i.e. in demand) coin at $[X] price point.

    Good point, thanks. But I didn't want to define a price. I was thinking something like "I want a ________ and even though I can only afford one in a very low grade, I still want one", or "I want a Chain Cent and, even though they are all expensive, I'm willing to save or trade up for it".

    People on this forum have bought $10 million coins. @Project Numismatics has a valid point. To other people, the thought of spending $1000 on a coin seems like a reach. The question is unanswerable without parameters.

    Even in your answer to Project Numismatics, you used the word "expensive". Some people never spend over $100 on a coin and that seems "expensive ". Other people consider a VF SVDB to be inexpensive at $1000ish.

    That makes sense, so what coin would you pick? My pick would be an AU HR $20.

    I want a gold Norse. I could afford a gold Norse. I won't buy a gold Norse because the thought of putting $30k into my safe makes my skin crawl. But, of course, that doesn't answer the OP'S question which is why I didn't offer an answer.

    In fact, if i won a gold Norse for free, I'd likely sell it because putting $30k into my safe makes my skin crawl.

    Or maybe it's just psoriasis.

    How about in a SDB, would that matter?

    Nope. It's the money, not the location

  • Morgan13Morgan13 Posts: 1,694 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Its in the works for me as I am saving for a nice Cameo proof. I think all prices are relative to what you can afford. I expect to own a Morgan Proof by the end of the year. I am also looking for other opportunities like a nice 3 cent silver. If one pops up I'll buy it. Sure it will push the proof savings back but that's okay. Im patient.

    Student of numismatics and collector of Morgan dollars
    Successful BST transactions with: Namvet Justindan Mattniss RWW olah_in_MA
    Dantheman984 Toyz4geo SurfinxHI greencopper RWW bigjpst bretsan MWallace logger7

  • MEJ7070MEJ7070 Posts: 72 ✭✭✭

    I’d love to be able to find and purchase an appealing 1909-O Barber quarter with original surfaces in XF/AU. I’ve owned 2 in PCGS holders (made a 45 from a raw LCS purchase about 10 years ago and sold to the old JJTeaparty folks……that coin had been brought in by a gentleman earlier that day selling a lifetime collection of raw coins with some true rarities but ALL had been dipped) but both had been dipped and neither held much appeal to my eyes.

    Financially within reach? I think so….but if a fresh example ever came available it would surely fetch a hell of a lot more than most who don’t follow Barber quarters closely would imagine.

    Numismatically possible? Ill keep you guys posted…..

    I know I’m certainly not alone in this particular endeavor.

  • Coins3675Coins3675 Posts: 375 ✭✭✭

    @Stuart said:
    $20 Gold Saint Gaudens High Relief Double Eagle


    I agree with you, that is the one I am trying to get.

  • seatedlib3991seatedlib3991 Posts: 1,171 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I would say the vast majority of American coin collectors at least tried to take on some of the 20th century classic coin sets. Shortly after, they discovered coins like:
    09'S VDB
    14-D
    55 DD
    37-D 3 leg Buff
    16-D Merc Dime
    Early STD QTRS.
    27-S STD QTR
    Pretty much any early Walk Half but 1921 dates for sure.
    I think very few collectors start their journey in a Century they didn't live in, but times may have changed. james

  • oldabeintxoldabeintx Posts: 2,462 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I’m confused (not unusual). Is this thread about what the “typical” collector wants that may be relatively expensive to the collector but is attainable, say by stretching? Or, is this about what I’m searching for that is “expensive” to me but attainable? If the former the SVDB probably heads the list.

  • lkeneficlkenefic Posts: 8,584 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @oldabeintx ,same here... confused... which is why I answered the way I did. The response will be different depending on how deep their pockets are, and (like me) where you are on your numismatic journey, and how far have the "goalposts" changed financially since beginning it.

    Collecting: Dansco 7070; Middle Date Large Cents (VF-AU); Box of 20;

    Successful BST transactions with: SilverEagles92; Ahrensdad; Smitty; GregHansen; Lablade; Mercury10c; copperflopper; whatsup; KISHU1; scrapman1077, crispy, canadanz, smallchange, robkool, Mission16, ranshdow, ibzman350, Fallguy, Collectorcoins, SurfinxHI, jwitten, Walkerguy21D, dsessom.
  • BarberianBarberian Posts: 4,119 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @coinbuf said:
    I have three; the only half eagle produced at the NOLA mint, the only $3 gold coin produced at the NOLA mint, and the only classic head $2 1/2 gold coin produced at the NOLA mint. You might notice a trend here. :D All are available at times however all can be rather pricey for my budget levels.

    For a majority of collectors I would pick the 09-SVDB or the 55/55 in mint state, I think those would qualify as obtainable but a stretch for some.

    @jmlanzaf said:
    Or maybe it's just psoriasis.

    This made me laugh, but I actually agree with you that having a large sum of money tied up in one coin would not be comfortable for me also. One of the reasons I likely will never own one of the three I listed.

    NOLA mint time?
    WB-4 (R3), VF20

    WB-13 (R6), VF25

    XF40

    VF35 CAC - the toughest of the NOLA mint seated Liberty halves to find unmolested.

    3 rim nicks away from Good
  • messydeskmessydesk Posts: 20,315 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Any of the widely available key dates, probably. 1877 cent, 09-S VDB, 55 Doubled Die, 37-D 3-leg Buffalo, 16-D Mercury dime, 93-S Morgan (in lower and lower grade lately). The reason they're available and fairly expensive is that they're highly sought after.

  • DisneyFanDisneyFan Posts: 2,484 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @jmlanzaf said:

    I want a gold Norse. I could afford a gold Norse. I won't buy a gold Norse because the thought of putting $30k into my safe makes my skin crawl. But, of course, that doesn't answer the OP'S question which is why I didn't offer an answer.

    In fact, if i won a gold Norse for free, I'd likely sell it because putting $30k into my safe makes my skin crawl.

    Would you define yourself as a collector or just a trader?

  • CatbertCatbert Posts: 7,631 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @BillJones said:

    @jdimmick said:
    For me its an 1878-s Half or 1799 Lg cent in XF or btr.

    If you can afford a 1799 large cent in EF or better, you have a lot more money than most folks. “CoinFacts” says it’s worth $210,000. That is not “within reach” of most people.

    78-S half is no joke either!

    Seated Half Society member #38
    "Got a flaming heart, can't get my fill"
  • jmlanzafjmlanzaf Posts: 36,740 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @DisneyFan said:

    @jmlanzaf said:

    I want a gold Norse. I could afford a gold Norse. I won't buy a gold Norse because the thought of putting $30k into my safe makes my skin crawl. But, of course, that doesn't answer the OP'S question which is why I didn't offer an answer.

    In fact, if i won a gold Norse for free, I'd likely sell it because putting $30k into my safe makes my skin crawl.

    Would you define yourself as a collector or just a trader?

    Collector. I think you're missing the point about the opportunity costs of throwing money in a safe.

  • DisneyFanDisneyFan Posts: 2,484 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @jmlanzaf said:

    @DisneyFan said:

    @jmlanzaf said:

    I want a gold Norse. I could afford a gold Norse. I won't buy a gold Norse because the thought of putting $30k into my safe makes my skin crawl. But, of course, that doesn't answer the OP'S question which is why I didn't offer an answer.

    In fact, if i won a gold Norse for free, I'd likely sell it because putting $30k into my safe makes my skin crawl.

    Would you define yourself as a collector or just a trader?

    Collector. I think you're missing the point about the opportunity costs of throwing money in a safe.

    Having thirty thousand dollars in coins is not an unreasonable amount for many collectors on this board. Earlier this year I did a survey which 76 forum members anonymously participated. 94% of our members spend more than $1,000 per year on coins. Of that group, the majority, 59% spend over $5,000. And 36% spend more than $25,000.

    What are you collecting these days?

  • jmlanzafjmlanzaf Posts: 36,740 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @DisneyFan said:

    @jmlanzaf said:

    @DisneyFan said:

    @jmlanzaf said:

    I want a gold Norse. I could afford a gold Norse. I won't buy a gold Norse because the thought of putting $30k into my safe makes my skin crawl. But, of course, that doesn't answer the OP'S question which is why I didn't offer an answer.

    In fact, if i won a gold Norse for free, I'd likely sell it because putting $30k into my safe makes my skin crawl.

    Would you define yourself as a collector or just a trader?

    Collector. I think you're missing the point about the opportunity costs of throwing money in a safe.

    Having thirty thousand dollars in coins is not an unreasonable amount for many collectors on this board. Earlier this year I did a survey which 76 forum members anonymously participated. 94% of our members spend more than $1,000 per year on coins. Of that group, the majority, 59% spend over $5,000. And 36% spend more than $25,000.

    What are you collecting these days?

    That is $30,000 in ONE coin. And I'm not telling you that you can't put a million in your safe. You can set a million on fire if you want, it's your money. I am not comfortable putting that much money into a single coin or collectible.

    The most valuable part of my collection is my Tibet coin and currency. I have little interest in most US coins for a number of reasons.

  • DisneyFanDisneyFan Posts: 2,484 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @jmlanzaf said:

    @DisneyFan said:

    @jmlanzaf said:

    @DisneyFan said:

    @jmlanzaf said:

    I want a gold Norse. I could afford a gold Norse. I won't buy a gold Norse because the thought of putting $30k into my safe makes my skin crawl. But, of course, that doesn't answer the OP'S question which is why I didn't offer an answer.

    In fact, if i won a gold Norse for free, I'd likely sell it because putting $30k into my safe makes my skin crawl.

    Would you define yourself as a collector or just a trader?

    Collector. I think you're missing the point about the opportunity costs of throwing money in a safe.

    Having thirty thousand dollars in coins is not an unreasonable amount for many collectors on this board. Earlier this year I did a survey which 76 forum members anonymously participated. 94% of our members spend more than $1,000 per year on coins. Of that group, the majority, 59% spend over $5,000. And 36% spend more than $25,000.

    What are you collecting these days?

    That is $30,000 in ONE coin. And I'm not telling you that you can't put a million in your safe. You can set a million on fire if you want, it's your money. I am not comfortable putting that much money into a single coin or collectible.

    The most valuable part of my collection is my Tibet coin and currency. I have little interest in most US coins for a number of reasons.

    It's not unreasonable for long time collectors to consolidate $30,000 worth of coins into a trophy coin.

  • jmlanzafjmlanzaf Posts: 36,740 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @DisneyFan said:

    @jmlanzaf said:

    @DisneyFan said:

    @jmlanzaf said:

    @DisneyFan said:

    @jmlanzaf said:

    I want a gold Norse. I could afford a gold Norse. I won't buy a gold Norse because the thought of putting $30k into my safe makes my skin crawl. But, of course, that doesn't answer the OP'S question which is why I didn't offer an answer.

    In fact, if i won a gold Norse for free, I'd likely sell it because putting $30k into my safe makes my skin crawl.

    Would you define yourself as a collector or just a trader?

    Collector. I think you're missing the point about the opportunity costs of throwing money in a safe.

    Having thirty thousand dollars in coins is not an unreasonable amount for many collectors on this board. Earlier this year I did a survey which 76 forum members anonymously participated. 94% of our members spend more than $1,000 per year on coins. Of that group, the majority, 59% spend over $5,000. And 36% spend more than $25,000.

    What are you collecting these days?

    That is $30,000 in ONE coin. And I'm not telling you that you can't put a million in your safe. You can set a million on fire if you want, it's your money. I am not comfortable putting that much money into a single coin or collectible.

    The most valuable part of my collection is my Tibet coin and currency. I have little interest in most US coins for a number of reasons.

    It's not unreasonable for long time collectors to consolidate $30,000 worth of coins into a trophy coin.

    I never said it was. I was asked what i would do. That is what I would do. I never told you or anyone else what to do. I'm not sure why you're arguing with me over my preference.

    Last year I bought a $22,000 Actoon #2 comic for $22,000. That is a rare trophy: second Superman. It was also a restored 9.2, one of only 2 over 8.5. It was beautiful and also caught everyone's eye at the show. I owned it for 6 months and then sold it for $26,000. I was never comfortable with it in my safe.

    That's ME. I'm not exactly sure why you're questioning MY preference.

    My collection/inventory was in the low 6 figures at the beginning of the year. I have undertaken a 3 year plan to sell all but the Tibet. Why? Because that was too much money in a non- performing asset for ME to be comfortable.

    YMMV. Do whatever you want. I'm unlikely to complain about what you're doing.

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