Is there a grade you avoid collecting?

asheland · February 12, 2019 9:29AM

MS62 can be nice:

asheland · February 12, 2019 9:32AM

@Insider2 said:
@Regulated said: "70. It shouldn't exist."

Well, it does. Believe it or not, there are many modern coins that I cannot find a defect on (even mint made) using high magnification! So 70's exist in my mind.

BTW, I avoid any coin graded 70.

I have two MS70 moderns that have no marks or spots on them even under magnification. They do indeed exist.
They were priced very reasonably so I had no problem with the extra premium.

ctf_error_coins · February 12, 2019 10:12AM

98% of my coins are MS with MS65 being my target grade.

I do like AU58's which I have a few. I have a couple in the AU 55 & AU 53 grades.

Zero XF and below.

jedm · February 12, 2019 12:14PM

Is there a grade that I avoid? No. Are there grades that I do not have in my collection? Yes. For instance I have no Fair or Poor or examples that are MS 70. Not necessarily avoided, just not yet acquired.

BillJones · February 12, 2019 12:20PM

I stay away from anything that grades below VG. If I can't afford something better, I don't need to own it. Generally my lower limit is VF-30, but I will go to the VG if I want it badly enough, but there I have very few coins in that grade.

Timbuk3 · February 12, 2019 1:04PM

Too many variables for me to give a definite answer !!! :'(

Elcontador · February 12, 2019 1:19PM

MS 62. Will not buy a + coin, though I made several in attempting upgrades.

Walkerfan · February 12, 2019 2:09PM

I have one 62 graded early Walker that I really like and I'll probably have it regraded some day.

For the early dates I have primarily 64s with a few 63s.

For the dates in the middle I have 65s and 66s.

The short set, at the end, I have primarily 66s and a few 67s.

That was my strategy going in for my optimal grades and I think that it worked out well.

Cameonut · February 12, 2019 2:24PM

70 - for all the reasons above. Normally not worth a hefty premium from a 69.

ARCO · February 12, 2019 2:36PM

VF25 and below. There are exceptions, but generally too much detail is gone.

david3142 · February 12, 2019 2:38PM

@Elcontador said:
MS 62. Will not buy a + coin, though I made several in attempting upgrades.

I understand having a minimal acceptable grade (and even a max) and I understand “I tend not to buy <+ grades, AU50, whatever> because they often <don’t look nice, are overpriced, etc> but a hard rule about a grade in the middle of what you otherwise collect makes no sense to me. If a coin you like is offered for money you think is fair, you really wouldn’t buy it because of the holder?

I actually find + grades that aren’t top pops to generally be a good value. Coins fall along a continuum of quality but prices are distinctly jumpy along grade lines. If I can get a coin that is 90% of the way to the next numeric grade but only 20% of the way on the price, that’s where I want to be collecting.

Wahoo554 · February 12, 2019 4:16PM

@BillJones said:
I stay away from anything that grades below VG. If I can't afford something better, I don't need to own it. Generally my lower limit is VF-30, but I will go to the VG if I want it badly enough, but there I have very few coins in that grade.

I’m curious what your VG coins are. I’ll bet they’re some pretty interesting rarities.

Unknown · February 12, 2019 4:25PM

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PocketArt · February 12, 2019 4:26PM

MS60 - MS62. Uncirculated with too many distracting hits/nicks.

ReadyFireAim · February 12, 2019 4:34PM

@ErrorsOnCoins said:
...with MS65 being my target grade.

It's like a Goldilocks grade for me.
64 is too baggy and 66 is too $$$
65 is Juuuuust...Right!

I do love a clean 64+ though when a 65 is moon money.
My favorite 2 coins are super-sneaky 64's that are just under by a hair.

topstuf · February 12, 2019 4:40PM

Reluctantly withdrawn. Too controversial.

amwldcoin · February 12, 2019 5:24PM

Go have a look at some of my AU Barber Half's....you might be surprised!

@FadeToBlack said:
AU 50, AU53, AU55, MS60, MS61, MS62.

Most of these look bad imho.

Unknown · February 12, 2019 5:37PM

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cameonut2011 · February 12, 2019 5:43PM

Most coins below XF and MS/PF 70

ARCO · February 12, 2019 6:11PM

@PocketArt said:
MS60 - MS62. Uncirculated with too many distracting hits/nicks.

62 and 63 are some of the best grades for classic coinage. Sometimes You get yourself a humdinger of a coin for a decent price.

REALGATOR · February 12, 2019 6:56PM

I never close my mind to any grade. Details/Impaired as well. Who wouldn't love to have a Chain Cent with a solid date, non-porous surfaces but with a dig in one part of the field causing a details grade or a strange net grade? If it looks right given the context of the coin then don't automatically pass it up solely because of the assigned grade or non-grade. Trust yourself.

DisneyFan · February 12, 2019 7:25PM

@david3142 said:

@Elcontador said:
MS 62. Will not buy a + coin, though I made several in attempting upgrades.

I understand having a minimal acceptable grade (and even a max) and I understand “I tend not to buy <+ grades, AU50, whatever> because they often <don’t look nice, are overpriced, etc> but a hard rule about a grade in the middle of what you otherwise collect makes no sense to me. If a coin you like is offered for money you think is fair, you really wouldn’t buy it because of the holder?

I actually find + grades that aren’t top pops to generally be a good value. Coins fall along a continuum of quality but prices are distinctly jumpy along grade lines. If I can get a coin that is 90% of the way to the next numeric grade but only 20% of the way on the price, that’s where I want to be collecting.

Better make sure that "+" has a CAC; otherwise, it's wasted money.

david3142 · February 12, 2019 7:29PM

@DisneyFan said:

@david3142 said:

@Elcontador said:
MS 62. Will not buy a + coin, though I made several in attempting upgrades.

I understand having a minimal acceptable grade (and even a max) and I understand “I tend not to buy <+ grades, AU50, whatever> because they often <don’t look nice, are overpriced, etc> but a hard rule about a grade in the middle of what you otherwise collect makes no sense to me. If a coin you like is offered for money you think is fair, you really wouldn’t buy it because of the holder?

I actually find + grades that aren’t top pops to generally be a good value. Coins fall along a continuum of quality but prices are distinctly jumpy along grade lines. If I can get a coin that is 90% of the way to the next numeric grade but only 20% of the way on the price, that’s where I want to be collecting.

Better make sure that "+" has a CAC; otherwise, it's wasted money.

You mean like these?

BustDMs · February 12, 2019 7:52PM

“Genuine”

cameonut2011 · February 12, 2019 7:54PM

PF60-PF63+ coins; there are usually too many hairlines for my taste.

BillJones · February 12, 2019 8:32PM

@BustDMs said:
“Genuine”

Yes, I won't buy anything that is graded "genuine." If the prices goes up, you won't get to participate in the run up for the most part. If it goes down, you still have a problem coin.

RYK · February 12, 2019 8:46PM

Bodybag

morgandollar1878 · February 12, 2019 10:33PM

My personal taste for a long time was uncirculated only. A couple years ago I expanded to AU58 and up.

DDR · February 13, 2019 12:36AM

There are exceptions to everything, but in general I avoid Poor, Fair and About Good; and on the other end of the spectrum, MS-69 and MS-70.

RedneckHB · February 13, 2019 5:25AM

I stay away from any split or inbetween grades such as G6, VG10, F15, VF30, XF45, AU53 or 55, ect. Im not particularly a fan of 60, 61, or 62 either.

Treashunt · February 13, 2019 7:51AM

I always likes AU-58, I got them at great prices years ago, when no one wanted them.
Now everyone wants them.
Rats.
But I avoid MS 60, 61 & 62. To me they are problem coins, but market acceptable-- just not to me.

BillJones · February 13, 2019 8:24AM

@Treashunt said:
I always likes AU-58, I got them at great prices years ago, when no one wanted them.
Now everyone wants them.
Rats.
But I avoid MS 60, 61 & 62. To me they are problem coins, but market acceptable-- just not to me.

It all depends upon what you collect. Sometimes MS-60, 61 and 62 is the best there is, what's available or what's affordable. It's darn tough to find an American coin from the late 1700s and early 1800s that grads higher than MS-62. If that low end Mint State coin has good eye appeal, there is nothing wrong with it.

Here is an example.

ShipwreckCoinHunter · February 13, 2019 8:30AM

Ms60 is a weird feeling grade. I would prefer an Au58 or Ms61. If the coins looked similar. At the same time it’s all about the eye appeal.

Zoins · February 13, 2019 9:02AM

I try to avoid grade 98 when it's plugged, but I may actually be interested if it's been artistically engraved.

https://www.pcgs.com/grades

lkenefic · February 13, 2019 9:14AM

My collecting "sweet spot" for my US Type set is XF45-AU58. I like lightly circulated coins with lots of meat left.

I also avoid "Details" coins.... the problems don't go away after you buy it, and I'd rather have a problem free coin at a lower grade if it's a stopper.

I avoid, PO1, Fr2, and AG3.

AlexinPA · February 13, 2019 9:42AM

Details.

Treashunt · February 13, 2019 10:47AM

@BillJones said:

@Treashunt said:
I always likes AU-58, I got them at great prices years ago, when no one wanted them.
Now everyone wants them.
Rats.
But I avoid MS 60, 61 & 62. To me they are problem coins, but market acceptable-- just not to me.

It all depends upon what you collect. Sometimes MS-60, 61 and 62 is the best there is, what's available or what's affordable. It's darn tough to find an American coin from the late 1700s and early 1800s that grads higher than MS-62. If that low end Mint State coin has good eye appeal, there is nothing wrong with it.

Here is an example.

agreed, nice coin

Elcontador · February 13, 2019 1:33PM

@david3142 said:

@Elcontador said:
MS 62. Will not buy a + coin, though I made several in attempting upgrades.

I understand having a minimal acceptable grade (and even a max) and I understand “I tend not to buy <+ grades, AU50, whatever> because they often <don’t look nice, are overpriced, etc> but a hard rule about a grade in the middle of what you otherwise collect makes no sense to me. If a coin you like is offered for money you think is fair, you really wouldn’t buy it because of the holder?

I actually find + grades that aren’t top pops to generally be a good value. Coins fall along a continuum of quality but prices are distinctly jumpy along grade lines. If I can get a coin that is 90% of the way to the next numeric grade but only 20% of the way on the price, that’s where I want to be collecting.

David, I have only seen 1 MS 62 coin that I would consider to be a no-questions asked Unc that wasn't outright ugly. It was an 1810 Classic Large Cent which didn't have enough mint luster for my taste. It wasn't ugly, but it was dull; it didn't speak to me.

MS 62 Morgans I've seen are generally frightening coins, and the MS 62 Capped Bust Halves I've seen more often than not imo are nice AUs. If I'm going to buy an AU coin, I don't want to pay Unc. money for it.

WildIdea · February 13, 2019 2:04PM

I try not to rule any grade out offhand. A coin I love could happen to be in any holder, any label grade, genuine or raw.

I’ve bought a few genuines that straight graded later and grades can change. Also, what I prefer or happen to be attracted to for the issue or series is another question altogether and my tastes change over time, so for me, I like to keep my options and my mind open.

blackhorse360 · February 13, 2019 7:18PM

Details

Canada · February 13, 2019 7:41PM

@BillJones said:

@BustDMs said:
“Genuine”

Yes, I won't buy anything that is graded "genuine." If the prices goes up, you won't get to participate in the run up for the most part. If it goes down, you still have a problem coin.

This one is killing me right now, as the only example on the open market of a particular rarity I've been meaning to add is a graded "Genuine" ... and they very rarely come up for sale ... and there it is... and I just can't.

Tempting as it is... Just can't.

Walkerfan · February 13, 2019 8:30PM

@Canada said:

@BillJones said:

@BustDMs said:
“Genuine”

Yes, I won't buy anything that is graded "genuine." If the prices goes up, you won't get to participate in the run up for the most part. If it goes down, you still have a problem coin.

This one is killing me right now, as the only example on the open market of a particular rarity I've been meaning to add is a graded "Genuine" ... and they very rarely come up for sale ... and there it is... and I just can't.

Tempting as it is... Just can't.

You'll never enjoy it as a problem coin, so you're doing the right thing.

BillJones · February 13, 2019 9:37PM

@Canada said:

@BillJones said:

@BustDMs said:
“Genuine”

Yes, I won't buy anything that is graded "genuine." If the prices goes up, you won't get to participate in the run up for the most part. If it goes down, you still have a problem coin.

This one is killing me right now, as the only example on the open market of a particular rarity I've been meaning to add is a graded "Genuine" ... and they very rarely come up for sale ... and there it is... and I just can't.

Tempting as it is... Just can't.

If it is very low population die variety or date and mint combination, that might all you can get. You should see some of the ultra low grade stuff some of the U.S. colonial coins collectors treasure. Some of it is below the Poor-1 grade.

Zoins · February 13, 2019 10:04PM

@Canada said:

@BillJones said:

@BustDMs said:
“Genuine”

Yes, I won't buy anything that is graded "genuine." If the prices goes up, you won't get to participate in the run up for the most part. If it goes down, you still have a problem coin.

This one is killing me right now, as the only example on the open market of a particular rarity I've been meaning to add is a graded "Genuine" ... and they very rarely come up for sale ... and there it is... and I just can't.

Tempting as it is... Just can't.

"Genuine" is better than "not Genuine"

Dave99B · February 13, 2019 10:04PM

For circulated material, VF20 is usually the bottom for me. I just prefer a little more meat on my circs.

For mint state material, I rarely go below MS63. Even in 63, it’s difficult to find desirable examples.

Dave

batumi · February 14, 2019 1:49AM

@Insider2 said:
@Regulated said: "70. It shouldn't exist."

Well, it does. Believe it or not, there are many modern coins that I cannot find a defect on (even mint made) using high magnification! So 70's exist in my mind.

BTW, I avoid any coin graded 70.

Insider: I agree though I have purchased 70's and will continue doing so at slightly below to slightly above bullion. Some of the gold issues are a steal imho unless bullion crashes which appears unlikely with the chaos and debt world wide.

batumi · February 14, 2019 1:56AM

Really no 'grades' I totally avoid. If I am interested in a certain coin, I look at it, then the grade given it-if certified, If I agree with grading, and do like the coin, I will consider it regardless of the grade.

matt_dac · February 14, 2019 9:20AM

Totally depends on the coin, but I too avoid anything with details.

Canada · February 14, 2019 10:24AM

@BillJones said:

If it is very low population die variety or date and mint combination, that might all you can get. You should see some of the ultra low grade stuff some of the U.S. colonial coins collectors treasure. Some of it is below the Poor-1 grade.

Even worse- it's one of those "(X) Were Minted For General Circulation But Never Released; Rare" sort of deals... and man, they're rare... but, as much as I've tried to rationalize it... I just can't.

I'll wait, forever if need be, for a problem free example to come up and make a run at that, rather than settling.

Is there a grade you avoid collecting?

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