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Is there a difference between dates for 1892-1954 commemoratives
tizofthe
Posts: 1,358 ✭✭✭
I would like to start collecting 1892-1954 - PCGS MS 66-68 - COMMEMORATIVES. However, I don’t know the difference between the dates for the 50 comm's. Most have different dates for each comm such as California Diamond Jubilee and many others. Does one date cost more or worth more than other dates. If so where would I go to find the best dates for the best COMMEMORATIVES. Grading on these is the easy part but a bit confused on different dates for different COMMEMORATIVES. Thanks, in advance
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Go to the PCGS pop reports which will give you a side by side comparison of which dates have less coins graded, and therefore bring more money. The Oregon has 14 different dates/mint marks. If you're doing a type set then you only need one. The 1939 Oregon has the lowest mintage....it doesn't mean it's the "best." In fact it would have the most appeal to full set collectors, and not to type collectors. Only you can decide by reviewing the price, population, and mintage data as to which ones you would prefer. Eye appeal should play a big role in your selection. As blast white or average looking commems regardless of mintage are a dime a dozen. The series has been in decline since 1989. Only the very best, with the "right" look have held on. Be careful with this series. It's easy to buy, buy, buy due the large quantities out there.
For relative retail values for the various dates, you can check the PCGS price guide:
pcgs.com/prices/priceguidedetail.aspx?ms=1&pr=1&sp=1&c=789&title=silver+commemorative
Keep in mind that:
Hope this helps.
This is good information from both of you. I think I will back and research even further to decide the best direction to go. Wow in decline sense 1989 huh? I see some stunning toned Organ trails, booker T and other but the prices are 8 to 20K. Crazy!
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Yup, Nowadays silver commems are very cheap.
The monster toners and pop tops are about the only coins in the series that have advanced since 1989. The finest knowns are needed for the very best registry sets. The killer toners end up in both the top reg sets as well as those commem specialists who just go after color. Overall pops have continued to increase since 1989....and prices have suffered.
Buy a book on collecting commemoratives. Get some knowledge before you spend any money.
bob
Besides dates there are mint marks to be considered (P-D-S) . Some come nicer then others, some are more supspectable to toning.
Take the Cincinnati for example. I would go for the S mint as its more desirable then the D or P. There are subtle nuances to putting together a 50 piece set.
I would strongly suggest creating a spreadsheet by type with desired grade and budget. Then keep track of where you are coimg in budget wise. I could tell you right now which pieces you will buy first and last. Eye appeal trumps grades in this series in my opinion. If you can try to get both and you'll have a special set. I would avoid 68's on the easy coins. Iowa's, Wisconsin's, Yorks etc and buy great 67's and save money to apply towards tough coins like the Missouri or Monroe. Try for as many pre 1928 dates as possible first. These issues tend to be more desirable.
Spend more money on the issues that you like best and less on the issues that you find ugly. There are several ugly ducklings in the series and some tend to be the most expensive when nice.
If you like white commems the Waverly Set just hit the market at Pinnacle. Not my cup of tea appearance wise ( I collect toners)? but there are plenty of solid 66-68's.
Good luck!
m
Fellas, leave the tight pants to the ladies. If I can count the coins in your pockets you better use them to call a tailor. Stay thirsty my friends......
Listen to MJ. Good advice on "ugly" commems last....or not at all. Some of them with BFUH syndrome (ie big fat ugly head) are the ones that bother me the most....lol. There's no requirement to get every one either. Be as fussy as you can for the type, grade you choose. Except at the very highest levels of buying commems, you just can't be "too picky."
@roadrunner...."BFUH syndrome"......
Thanks for my morning laugh... that one cracked me up... Cheers, RickO
To be honest, I'd be careful jumping right into MS66-68 Commems when you are starting with basic education on mint marks dates. Perhaps stick to CAC coins from a select group of dealers who make a market in high quality commems to be sure that you are getting quality coins for the grade and price with liquidity backing it up from dealers who make a market in the series.
Coinraritiesonline (CRO), Pinnacle, Legend to name a few would be places to start. Numismatic Americana had some great ones but Bill doesn't seem to be active in retail any longer.
Latin American Collection
I've dabbled with commems over the years, mostly unsuccessfully when buying on "spec" only....usually a good deal was getting my money back. And with dozens of different designs I wouldn't call grading the entire commem series "easy" in the 66 to 68 grades. One of my last purchases was a really nice NGC MS67 Iowa that a dealer friend of mine had. He cherry picked the best pieces he could find out of a hoard that had broken and been slabbed...lots of 66's and 67's. So the 67 I bought was the best appealing coin of the bunch for the price of approx $450. That was only a 10% premium to the going rate at the time. The coin was blasty, clean, and eye catching. A short time after I bought it I couldn't make sense in keeping it as the market softened further around 2008.
Today that MS67 lists on PCGS price guide for $285 max retail price ($600 in MS67+). The only way to profit from my ex-coin today would be to get a MS67+ grade...which it could have possibly done. There were no + grades when I bought that....but there were still premiums for really nice examples. So if I were going to do a 66-67 set I'd be looking for + examples that could get an upgrade, or very strong examples yet not plussed. And you'd want to focus on the grade you can afford where the biggest price spreads occur when going up a grade, or up to a +....let continued gradeflation help to bail you out. In other words, focus on the top 5-10% of any particular grade/commem you are considering. Either that, or also focus on the "eye appealing" coins that MJ prefers. If getting your money back is one of your goals, then I'd consider some of the above.
This says it all.
For me, it's all about the coin and not the grade on a holder.
I have purchased some "Monster" toners in AU-55 and AU-58 as well as MS-63. Take your time and purchase coins based on "Eye Appeal."
hey wabbit, does your chart show a bottom, so it is a good time to buy?
tiz, before I started spending 100s/1000s/10000s on 66-68s, I would spend a $100 and buy some used books on commems to help you answer those questions.
Good news is there are a BUNCH of people who would be glad to dump, if mean, enable you to invest, in their inventory of silver commemorative coins.
It is almost as good as the market for tickets to the Rolling Stones concert , purchasing the tickets 1 week after the concert is over. You can buy them at least 60% off the price from a mere 10 days earlier.
These were my first two I was hoping to purchse. both MS67 one CAC. Just like the color. would these satisfy high end coins for the series. I just like the coins.
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Well the half of those that I can see sure look nice
Latin American Collection
I'm not a sure that an ultra high grade 1926 Philadelphia Sesquicentennial half dollar is worth the money. That issue was stuck in low relief, and every example I've seen had some sort of an issue that would make me hesitate to fork over $20,000 + for one of the few examples that grade MS-66. There are no PCGS graded MS-67 examples. I have a blast white MS-64 example in my collection, although my set is nothing like what you want to achieve.
Monroe is another issue that was not well made and commands high prices in high grade.
I completely agree with this. The 1926 Ses goes from about $200-250 in 64 to over $1,500 in 65 and then into the $20,000s for 66. I think if you can pick up a nice 64 or 65 you can complete 80% of the set in 66 or higher for the amount of money you are saving from 65 to 66.