What kind of rarity do you enjoy best?
oreville
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Do you like the finest graded per the TPG PCGS/NGC as well as CAC?
OR
Owning a coin that is the rarest regardless of grade?
Here is an example of something that floored me. I bought a 1955 DDO cent in PCGS MS-65 Red in 1997.
In 2008, it received a CAC sticker. I was shocked to discover that CAC has never stickered any other 65 RD graded one!
OR
Owning a coin that is the rarest regardless of grade?
Here is an example of something that floored me. I bought a 1955 DDO cent in PCGS MS-65 Red in 1997.
In 2008, it received a CAC sticker. I was shocked to discover that CAC has never stickered any other 65 RD graded one!
A Collectors Universe poster since 1997!
0
Comments
In general though, I place more value and "cool factor" on coins that are rare regardless of grade.
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All of my collection is in a safe deposit box!
This seems to be a good model to challenge me and excite me when I find a coin and restrictive enough to space purchases out far enough for me to not have to pass on coin after coin due to capital requirements.
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Too many collectors, who have limited or no confidence in their ability to grade coins, believe that a grading holder plus a sticker make a coin "golden." As "Sportn' Life" sang in "Porgie and Bess," "It ain't Necessasarily So."
Joseph J. Singleton - First Superintendent of the U.S. Branch Mint in Dahlonega Georgia
Findley Ridge Collection
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Condition rarity can't be ignored though. Some coins, like Peace dollars, are just ugly in anything but gem grades.
analysis for why they feel absolute rarities are better for them.
<< <i>Condition rarity disappears as soon as you crack the slab >>
Hardly. I have owned several finest known seated coins in the past, and they still rank as #1 regardless of the holder or grade assigned....or even if raw. Sometimes, the holder is just superfluous. Or sometimes, the holder gets in the way and confuses/disrupts the rankings. I learned to buy the best possible coin before the TPG's came around.
My focus has always been to find a date that is scarce in its own right (ie 100-350 pieces known in all grades) and then go out and find the best uncs you can.....ideally in the top 1-3 coins for date/mm. I've done that about a dozen times with seated S and O mints. It helped too that very few others were doing the same thing at that time.
The idea of multiple types of rarity is actually at the core of my collecting strategy. I think, like Bill mentioned, that rarity is more than just condition or absolute. For me a coin must have at least one of these five:
1. "Appearance rarity" This can be a completely common coin in an absolute sense, but it must have a look or eye appeal that would make it at least a challenge to replace. This 1857 quarter and 1908-D eagle are examples of this. Both are common coins. A coin MUST have this type of rarity to be included in my collection. In other words, an 1822 half eagle with a big hole in it, wouldn't be considered. (I'd flip it though. )
2. "Variety rarity" While similar to absolute rarity, I will occasionally buy a coin because I like variety rarity. Rarely if ever have I ever pursued a variety...it is more akin to some salt and pepper sprinkled on your steak. Good without it, but even better with. The two coins below fall into that category. Both are R4 with great "appearance rarity" as well.
3. "Grade rarity" This is generally something that is happened upon rather than searched for, but to a knowledgable numismatist it can be so much fun. Bill talked about it in his post. Knowing what coins are generally not found in a specific state of preservation. For me, one of the few coins that I really regret not holding onto was a 1929 half eagle in extra fine. Indian Half Eagle collectors know that 1929 half eagles almost always come as UNCs and sliders, but try finding one in circ condition! This 1912 isn't nearly as cool as that, but I bought it based on the fact that you never see well worn and problem free eye appealing coins like this. Could you easily put together a set of these in this grade?
4. "Condition rarity" This type or rarity I think is the most controversial. Topooceans in his post said that condition rarity disappears as soon as you crack a coin out of a slab. I think that is only a half truth. For very common coins with high mintages and survival rates in the super grades (68 and higher), I think this is true. But condition rarity on many coins doesn't disappear with the slab. Those are the kinds that I like to focus in on. These coins tend to be among my favorites in the collection as they almost always combine wonderful eye appeal. There is also real recognition that they are the best that can be found. These two come to mind. All can be found pretty easily in lower grades, but near impossible to replace in this level of preservation.
5. "Absolute rarity" As one might expect, when subjecting a collection to multiple rarity standards, this is the coin I have fewest of. They also tend to be the hardest to find outside of really esoteric pieces that don't have the same design allure of "mainstream" numismatics. I would say that I only have one in the collection that falls into this category, although relativity always comes into play. This coin is special in that it is rare in nearly any condition so it has absolute rarity while at the same time having exceptional "appearance rarity" and "condition rarity", since it is the finest known. Enjoy!
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<< <i>Absolute rarity! Condition rarity is essentially just an opinion. >>
<< <i>I like to collect low mintage coin issues that were heavily circulated and not saved in MS. In addition to that, the nicely struck examples of those issues that aren't usually struck well. This pretty much describes good Early Walkers! So, YES, I like both condition and absolute rarity coins in gem or near gem. I guess that I lean more towards absolute rarity, if I had to choose just one. >>
This also aptly describes what I like, certain New Orleans mint Barber Halves and Quarters.
It's all I have anymore. XF and AU coins with pops in the single digits.
Yes.
<< <i> >>
Love this coin. It's perfect.
I only have left in my collection exceptional pieces. I sold off most everything else. I have even started to pick up a type coin or two that is exceptional, just because its fun to own.
For example, just recently acquired a classic head large cent in CAC gold, one of only 4 in existence. graded like three grades light.
The market seems to prefer this method as well over the past several years
eye appeal for me. I almost never buy the highest grade extant, though. Too much of a premium
in most cases. The trick is finding pieces at a grade or two lower that look as good or better.
<< <i>I used to buy key date and choose absolute rarity over condition rarity, even settling for marginal coins just to get the date I wanted. However over the past year or so, if a coin is not all there and exceptional, I just pass.
I only have left in my collection exceptional pieces. I sold off most everything else. I have even started to pick up a type coin or two that is exceptional, just because its fun to own.
For example, just recently acquired a classic head large cent in CAC gold, one of only 4 in existence. graded like three grades light.
The market seems to prefer this method as well over the past several years >>
would love to see images of the Classic Head Large Cent!
I knew it would happen.
More importantly,Coinlieutenant's 1872 half is smoking! Tremendous.
"Look up, old boy, and see what you get." -William Bonney.
<< <i>
<< <i> >>
Love this coin. It's perfect. >>
cool coin.
10,000,000minted and all went into circulation and tough to find now.
Just curious.
<< <i>I'll be the dissenting voice and state that I generally prefer condition rarity. It's really all about
eye appeal for me. I almost never buy the highest grade extant, though. Too much of a premium
in most cases. The trick is finding pieces at a grade or two lower that look as good or better. >>
This is how I like to collect as well.
My favorite coins are chUnc's and my favorite chUnc's are Gems. I look for coins that
aren't usually found in Unc like most US and world moderns. I'll trade off lower grades
and more common coins. I collect some older coins as well but most of them I can af-
ford only XF/ AU.
HE>I
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It's the logic and the knowledge most of us use intuitively. Thoughtfully organizing it into an action plan is more difficult. But, QED, very fruitful
While a friend and supporter of JA and CAC, I think they totally blew it on the 1912 $5. In this instance, there are two ways to "play" the system. Based on pop data, it is very worthy of a "Poor Man's" Registry Set of gold. Also, to further its status, consider a "guarantee resubmission" to downgrade it. If you get lucky with a VG08, a gold bean is a potential two-way play.
- Marcus Tullius Cicero, 106-43 BC
I prefer absolute rarity, but will no longer buy a coin that has no eye-appeal or just marginal for the grade regardless of how rare. I only want to own exceptional pieces.
Ugly or very low grade = no purchase from me, no matter how rare it is.
HE>I
I prefer rarity but so often find a great looking SLQ or Indian in 64 and can't p***** it up.
With 18th century type I can take weak strikes and adjustment marks if not too bad as long as they have original skins.. I'll even ignore minor planchette flaws
With more modern coins I have a hard time buying an expensive coin in some superlative grade that's available in nice MS 64.
Even with 40 yrs. in the hobby I really can't judge grades after 65+ and don't know what it takes to make a MS-67 or MS-68 so for the money I'd rather a nice VF chain cent