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I know it's been dipped, but ...

BillJonesBillJones Posts: 35,762 ✭✭✭✭✭
I know it's been dipped, but if it looks like it did the day it dropped from the dies 100+ years ago, does it matter?

Here is a case in point. This 1838 No Drapery dime must of have been dipped. Otherwise how could it be this white? So far as the coin goes I imagine that this piece looked like this the day it was struck. Adding to the fun is that fact that I have owned this coin for six years, and it has not toned in the holder.

So why is the dipping so bad? Care to comment? I have more examples.

imageimage
Retired dealer and avid collector of U.S. type coins, 19th century presidential campaign medalets and selected medals. In recent years I have been working on a set of British coins - at least one coin from each king or queen who issued pieces that are collectible. I am also collecting at least one coin for each Roman emperor from Julius Caesar to ... ?

Comments

  • tightbudgettightbudget Posts: 7,299 ✭✭✭
    Dipping is not bad so long as it's done properly.
  • lkeigwinlkeigwin Posts: 16,895 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I bought this as an NGC AU55, a year ago. It is one of the few of mine that PCGS crossed at grade.

    I know it has been dipped. But it is one of the flashiest, most lustrous CBH's I've seen. I'm okay with it.
    Lance.

    imageimage
  • lkeigwinlkeigwin Posts: 16,895 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Here's one more. An AU55 O.119, R3.

    This was part of the Don Willis Premium Collection, auctioned by B&M in 11/07 (lot 2242). Brilliant, full luster with satiny surfaces. Sharp strike and free of any distracting abrasions. Wonderful eye appeal.
    Lance.

    imageimage
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  • BrolBrol Posts: 266 ✭✭
    I would like to see an example of the same year No Drapery Dime, at the same technical grade and supposedly not dipped, when I would make my selection. I think there would be a difference between A - dipped (white) and B - not dipped one (toned, tarnished ect.). Some collectors prefer A, some B.
  • stevebensteveben Posts: 4,666 ✭✭✭✭✭
    i don't see anything wrong with it when it's done properly. however, i also understand why people would opt for a dirty one instead. besides, it's all about the eye appeal after everything else checks out.


  • << <i>

    again we must assume it has been dipped, and yet it had to have been done right since it is fully lusterous. >>



    It's pretty hard to improperly dip a coin. As long as you don't leave it in solution for hours on end, the solution won't continue to remove metal beyond the toned portion. "Overdipping" is a misnomer. If I took a blast white silver dollar, and dipped it 10 times in EZest over the span of 10 minutes, it would pretty much look identical to how it did before.

    Instead, the issue is when people dip coins that ought not to be dipped---when the toning is too heavy, or when the coin has retoned after a prior dipping. Stripping the surface of a thick oxidized layer will expose the effected metal flow lines (or in the case of PL coins, the underlying mirrors). This is when you see the hazy, milky, dull, "dipped out" look.

    What I'm getting at is, if you're looking to dip a coin to blast white, the results are often pre-determined, so long as you rinse very well at the end. The coin will either dip out well, or it won't, and immediately subsequent dips to a blast white surface won't do much of anything.
  • LanceNewmanOCCLanceNewmanOCC Posts: 19,999 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>

    << <i>

    again we must assume it has been dipped, and yet it had to have been done right since it is fully lusterous. >>



    It's pretty hard to improperly dip a coin. As long as you don't leave it in solution for hours on end, the solution won't continue to remove metal beyond the toned portion. "Overdipping" is a misnomer. If I took a blast white silver dollar, and dipped it 10 times in EZest over the span of 10 minutes, it would pretty much look identical to how it did before.

    Instead, the issue is when people dip coins that ought not to be dipped---when the toning is too heavy, or when the coin has retoned after a prior dipping. Stripping the surface of a thick oxidized layer will expose the effected metal flow lines (or in the case of PL coins, the underlying mirrors). This is when you see the hazy, milky, dull, "dipped out" look.

    What I'm getting at is, if you're looking to dip a coin to blast white, the results are often pre-determined, so long as you rinse very well at the end. The coin will either dip out well, or it won't, and immediately subsequent dips to a blast white surface won't do much of anything. >>


    +1
    .

    <--- look what's behind the mask! - cool link 1/NO ~ 2/NNP ~ 3/NNC ~ 4/CF ~ 5/PG ~ 6/Cert ~ 7/NGC 7a/NGC pop~ 8/NGCF ~ 9/HA archives ~ 10/PM ~ 11/NM ~ 12/ANACS cert ~ 13/ANACS pop - report fakes 1/ACEF ~ report fakes/thefts 1/NCIS - Numi-Classes SS ~ Bass ~ Transcribed Docs NNP - clashed coins - error training - V V mm styles -

  • rickoricko Posts: 98,724 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Dipping is bad only to those purists who have made the personal decision that they will not accept coins which have been subjected to the process. Of course, many do, unknowingly, because done correctly, it will not be detectable. Cheers, RickO
  • sniocsusniocsu Posts: 1,293 ✭✭✭


    << <i>Dipping is bad only to those purists who have made the personal decision that they will not accept coins which have been subjected to the process. Of course, many do, unknowingly, because done correctly, it will not be detectable. Cheers, RickO >>



    Agreed
  • FlatwoodsFlatwoods Posts: 4,270 ✭✭✭✭✭
    When I first started collecting I actually sought out coins like the one Bill posted.
    Now, I tend to avoid them. Is it because my tastes have changed? Have I been swayed by public opinion?
    Probably a combination of things. If I collect long enough, I may once again seek out such coins.

    At this point in my collecting career, I just can't get past the fact that"They shouldn't look like that"

    Bill, you are a more advanced collector than I am and I value your opinion. What do you like?
    If able to choose between two identical coins, with one more natural looking, Which would you choose?
  • keyman64keyman64 Posts: 15,650 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>image

    again we must assume it has been dipped, and yet it had to have been done right since it is fully lusterous. >>

    Realone, that is beautiful!...not that the others in this thread aren't because they are but holy smokes!
    "If it's not fun, it's not worth it." - KeyMan64
    Not really looking for much these days but if I were, it might be a toner. :smile:
  • Type2Type2 Posts: 13,985 ✭✭✭✭✭
    All very nice dipped or not they have been here a long time and we all need a face lift here and there. I Wish i look that good after 100+ years. Not being dipped is just a bonus.image


    Hoard the keys.
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  • ColonelJessupColonelJessup Posts: 6,442 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Have you changed your sig line yet?image
    "People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." - Geo. Orwell
  • MrEurekaMrEureka Posts: 24,668 ✭✭✭✭✭
    First, I've seen many 100+ year old coins that have never been dipped. As anyone that has seen original Morgan Dollar rolls knows, it's not that unusual.

    Anyway, if you like a dipped coin, why not buy it? Personally, I tend not to like them, but that's just me.

    Andy Lustig

    Doggedly collecting coins of the Central American Republic.

    Visit the Society of US Pattern Collectors at USPatterns.com.
  • SeattleSlammerSeattleSlammer Posts: 10,121 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>Dipping is bad only to those purists who have made the personal decision that they will not accept coins which have been subjected to the process. Of course, many do, unknowingly, because done correctly, it will not be detectable. Cheers, RickO >>




    It's detectable just by virtue of being blast white after 100 years.
  • I just sent 5 ASE s PR70s in to our host with spots. They came back with no spots..How did they do that?image
  • BigABigA Posts: 2,715 ✭✭✭✭


    << <i>I just sent 5 ASE s PR70s in to our host with spots. They came back with no spots..How did they do that?image >>



    Replaced the coins??? I didn't think milk spots were able to be removed. I did the same ATS and they told me they were buying the coins in the market and would replace my coins.
  • lkeigwinlkeigwin Posts: 16,895 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>

    << <i>I just sent 5 ASE s PR70s in to our host with spots. They came back with no spots..How did they do that?image >>



    Replaced the coins??? I didn't think milk spots were able to be removed. I did the same ATS and they told me they were buying the coins in the market and would replace my coins. >>

    Something about this isn't right, assuming it's true. It really shouldn't matter for modern 70 stuff, I guess. And most collectors probably wouldn't mind. But it feels a little underhanded if it is done without the owner's permission.

    Suppose there was some special attachment to the coin...it was a gift from a dear friend who passed on, e.g.?

    And what would prevent the TPG from being a little generous about the grade on the replacement coin. Not many collectors can tell a 69 from a 70, and the 69 is often much less expensive.
    Lance.
  • Tdec1000Tdec1000 Posts: 3,852 ✭✭✭


    << <i>

    << <i>

    again we must assume it has been dipped, and yet it had to have been done right since it is fully lusterous. >>



    It's pretty hard to improperly dip a coin. As long as you don't leave it in solution for hours on end, the solution won't continue to remove metal beyond the toned portion. "Overdipping" is a misnomer. If I took a blast white silver dollar, and dipped it 10 times in EZest over the span of 10 minutes, it would pretty much look identical to how it did before.

    Instead, the issue is when people dip coins that ought not to be dipped---when the toning is too heavy, or when the coin has retoned after a prior dipping. Stripping the surface of a thick oxidized layer will expose the effected metal flow lines (or in the case of PL coins, the underlying mirrors). This is when you see the hazy, milky, dull, "dipped out" look.

    What I'm getting at is, if you're looking to dip a coin to blast white, the results are often pre-determined, so long as you rinse very well at the end. The coin will either dip out well, or it won't, and immediately subsequent dips to a blast white surface won't do much of anything. >>




    I agree with most of what you say except if you take a coin and dip it a bunch of times it will strip the metal and leave hairlines. Especially a proof coin. It is not a misnomer.
    Awarded the coveted "You Suck" Award on 22 Oct 2010 for finding a 1942/1 D Dime in silver, and on 7 Feb 2011 Cherrypicking a 1914 MPL Cent on Ebay!

    Successful BST Transactions!SIconbuster, Meltdown, Mission16, slothman2000, RGjohn, braddick, au58lover, allcoinsrule, commemdude, gerard, lablade, PCcoins, greencopper, kaz, tydye, cucamongacoin, mkman123, SeaEaglecoins, Doh!, AnkurJ, Airplanenut, ArizonaJack, JJM,Tee135,LordMarcovan, Swampboy, piecesofme, Ahrensdad,
  • RYKRYK Posts: 35,800 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I am generally not a huge fan of dipped coins, especially 150+ year old silver coins, and no coin posted to this thread has changed my mind on the issue.
  • topstuftopstuf Posts: 14,803 ✭✭✭✭✭
    PROPER dipping includes a wash in baking soda SOLUTION (some baking soda dissolved in water) and then a rinse in WARMISH water.

    Followed by a PAT DRY on T-shirt cloth.
  • keetskeets Posts: 25,351 ✭✭✭✭✭
    it is a bit disingenuous to be of the opinion that dipping is OK if the end result suits you while your general opinion is that dipping is unacceptable when it doesn't suit you. similarly, if you consider dipping to be "cleaning" it seems the same should hold true. how often have there been discussions about dipping for an increase in grade/value??
  • StuartStuart Posts: 9,831 ✭✭✭✭✭
    This coin has very light rub on the highest points of Miss Liberty's Breast and the Hair curl over her ear on the obverse, and the top of the Eagle's Head and upper wing tips with light rub also on the outer portion of the Eagle's right (viewer's left) wing.

    I consider this to be a true "Slider" by strict definition with minimal cabinet friction, and that was also Dick Osburn's opinion when I purchased this coin in 2009.


    1831 Capped Bust Half Dollar (O-102) - NGC AU-58

    image

    image
    image

    Stuart

    Collect 18th & 19th Century US Type Coins, Silver Dollars, $20 Gold Double Eagles and World Crowns & Talers with High Eye Appeal

    "Luck is what happens when Preparation meets Opportunity"
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  • StuartStuart Posts: 9,831 ✭✭✭✭✭
    1842 Seated Liberty Dollar - NGC MS-60 (Semi-PL)

    image

    image
    image

    Stuart

    Collect 18th & 19th Century US Type Coins, Silver Dollars, $20 Gold Double Eagles and World Crowns & Talers with High Eye Appeal

    "Luck is what happens when Preparation meets Opportunity"
  • BigABigA Posts: 2,715 ✭✭✭✭


    << <i>

    << <i>

    << <i>I just sent 5 ASE s PR70s in to our host with spots. They came back with no spots..How did they do that?image >>



    Replaced the coins??? I didn't think milk spots were able to be removed. I did the same ATS and they told me they were buying the coins in the market and would replace my coins. >>

    Something about this isn't right, assuming it's true. It really shouldn't matter for modern 70 stuff, I guess. And most collectors probably wouldn't mind. But it feels a little underhanded if it is done without the owner's permission.

    Suppose there was some special attachment to the coin...it was a gift from a dear friend who passed on, e.g.?

    And what would prevent the TPG from being a little generous about the grade on the replacement coin. Not many collectors can tell a 69 from a 70, and the 69 is often much less expensive.
    Lance. >>



    The TPG referred to in my post called me and asked which I would prefer...a replacement coin, FMV for the coin, or regrade of the coin at a lower grade and the difference in FMV refunded. They were 2006 20th ASE's (RP's and PF's)...I chose the replacement. Sorry for not being clearer but we were OT as it was....
  • TwoSides2aCoinTwoSides2aCoin Posts: 45,000 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I prefer natural. Always have, always will. Dark and crusty, dirty, grimy, oily, toned out, ugly, gross, blackened coins. They don't need my help at all.
  • lkeigwinlkeigwin Posts: 16,895 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>

    << <i>

    << <i>

    << <i>I just sent 5 ASE s PR70s in to our host with spots. They came back with no spots..How did they do that?image >>



    Replaced the coins??? I didn't think milk spots were able to be removed. I did the same ATS and they told me they were buying the coins in the market and would replace my coins. >>


    Something about this isn't right, assuming it's true. It really shouldn't matter for modern 70 stuff, I guess. And most collectors probably wouldn't mind. But it feels a little underhanded if it is done without the owner's permission.

    Suppose there was some special attachment to the coin...it was a gift from a dear friend who passed on, e.g.?

    And what would prevent the TPG from being a little generous about the grade on the replacement coin. Not many collectors can tell a 69 from a 70, and the 69 is often much less expensive.
    Lance. >>



    The TPG referred to in my post called me and asked which I would prefer...a replacement coin, FMV for the coin, or regrade of the coin at a lower grade and the difference in FMV refunded. They were 2006 20th ASE's (RP's and PF's)...I chose the replacement. Sorry for not being clearer but we were OT as it was.... >>



    I would have no problem with that. It would be the correct thing to do. I thought you were suggesting that maybe our host did this without the knowledge and approval of the owner.
    Lance.

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