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How much premium are you willing to pay for any particular label?
Paradisefound
Posts: 8,588 ✭✭✭✭✭
How much premium are you willing to pay for any particular label? Will these special labels as added value be realized later on resale? I particularly like the "Black diamond" buffalo labels for my buffalos; they look better in collection but it command almost $200 more for the same exact coin compare to "Flag".
Thank you for your input.
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I pay perhaps a ten percent premium for pedigrees of Green, Pittman and Eliasberg.
Zero extra for signatures of the various mint directors, First strikes and chazerie like that.
I do not pay premiums for labels..... I will for a good coin though. Cheers, RickO
Zero. Zip. Nada.
Those who collect paper labels and plastic holders might feel differently.
Zero.
I don't buy special labels for any price at all. Nor any types of coins for which special labels are made, for that matter.
Liberty: Parent of Science & Industry
Not much but a bit. I am aware on the down the road affect of increased liquidity
11.5$ Southern Dollars, The little “Big Easy” set
Zero
“In matters of style, swim with the current; in matters of principle, stand like a rock." - Thomas Jefferson
My digital cameo album 1950-64 Cameos - take a look!
A slight premium for a special label and a little more still for a rare slab.
“I may not believe in myself but I believe in what I’m doing” ~Jimmy Page~
My Full Walker Registry Set (1916-1947)
https://www.ngccoin.com/registry/competitive-sets/16292/
The answer lies in the collector’s wallet.
I’ll pay a bit more for rattlers, doilies, and such if I think the coin is all there and if I think the holder will result in added liquidity/value at sale time. I don’t collect holders but I’m not blind to how the market views them.
As for quirky labels, first strike designations & such - I give them zero importance.
Zero.
As a matter of fact, I'd probably pay LESS. I like the standard holder so much more. I really feel like it cheapens the brand by doing all this gimmicky stuff.
One day the bottom will fall out of all this special holder nonsense, "First Strike" included.
Dead Cat Waltz Exonumia
"Coin collecting for outcasts..."
I only pay premiums when the coin is nice and I REALLY need it for a set. Previous owners are nice to know, but paying big bucks for them is not part of my strategy.
I once knew a collector who would traded higher grade coins for lower grade coins of the sale issue if the lower grade piece had been owned by a famous collector. He was actually able to pry some coins out of museum collections that way. The museum was willing to trade the lower grade coin for the higher grade piece.
I think pedigrees have to be a different category than simply the label issue. The flags vs diamonds changes nothing about the coin. Pedigrees may not change the quality of the coin, but they do tie it to the history of the hobby and may have some actual value added as a result.
I think especially "First Strike", since the "First STrike" could well have been the last actual strike.
I've paid for sample slabs so that puts me in the $20 range.
Of course, that's worse than getting a special label, because those coins aren't even graded!
Good to know. I've been wondering how to get pieces from some museums.
I purchased the label for this one, the coin is a dog.
POST NUBILA PHOEBUS / AFTER CLOUDS, SUN
Love for Music / Collector of Dreck
" I don't waist my Money on Labels! "
I always wanted to say that after all those that ribbed me for paying on those UGLY Green Philly Labels
How much do NGC NLF Gen 3 & 4 go for?
Say a common peace dollar in 64
Cashback from Mr. Rebates
$0. If it is pedigreed to some insignificant collection or the promotional label too corny, it would have negative value to me as I would factor in the cost of a reholder in any purchasing decision.
Nothing.
Different answers for generic gold, Early gold, dated gold, circ type, proof type, white type, toned type, MS68 Morgans, CAC and etc.
$20.99
Hoard the keys.
I think I have paid ~$10-$15 extra for a label.....when I was getting coins graded by PCGS and wanted the FIRST STRIKE label put on them.....
As for paying for labels already on a coin? Nope....I'll pay a certain price and, if it is available at that price with the label I am fine with, then I'll buy.
Now, there ARE labels that make it so I won't buy a coin...that's the, pardon the pun, flipside of the question
I've been told I tolerate fools poorly...that may explain things if I have a problem with you. Current ebay items - Nothing at the moment
I love the liquidity which comes with the OGH's. For copper I see a strong reason to pay a premium for older holders given the belief that the surfaces are more stable. If it was red 30 years ago, good chance it is stable today.
Latin American Collection
Zero.
I pay /bid a pct of what I think can the coin sell the coin for.
Modern coins in different labels are just dogs with a different set of fleas as Gordon Gekko would say, pedigrees may merit a premium and classic coins in OGHs, Doily's, rattlers, etc.- absolutely merit a premium.
Andrew Blinkiewicz-Heritage
$200 extra wasted on paper goods could buy a lot of TP for your bunghole.
Original Doilies (none of the retro labels) and before, especially SAMPLE Doilies...others...not so much.
The golden rule applies...buy the coin (primarily) not the holder (unless it is rare).
BST transactions: dbldie55, jayPem, 78saen, UltraHighRelief, nibanny, liefgold, FallGuy, lkeigwin, mbogoman, Sandman70gt, keets, joeykoins, ianrussell (@GC), EagleEye, ThePennyLady, GRANDAM, Ilikecolor, Gluggo, okiedude, Voyageur, LJenkins11, fastfreddie, ms70, pursuitofliberty, ZoidMeister,Coin Finder, GotTheBug, edwardjulio, Coinnmore...
I now have a strong preference for PCGS over NGC. I also do not like PCGS rattle holders. I try to avoid them. As for the rest, I buy the coin and nothing else matters other than the coin.
As for previous onwers, it's nice to know, if they were famous, but I'm not paying for that.
Coins that have a strong grade and a cac sticker should command extra interest and money; think of all the hurdles the buyers have had to jump over, to get the coin to certify well and then to get the cac sticker with a 40% success rate. Many buyers have access to cac bids, so they start from that point in their offers, zero risk. The problem is whether the seller can make any money in a buyer's market. And with cac stickered coins with huge spreads in the next higher grade, there should be a premium.
notta
Pedigree maybe, others not so much. I'd really like to have a Pittman $5 Liberty for my set since I knew him when I was a member of the RNA back in the 70s. It would be especially nice to have one that could be attributed to the Farouk sale.
it's crackers to slip a rozzer the dropsy in snide
ZERO
I don't pay extra for nothing! Grrrr..... I want CHEAP!
Putting in an extra effort and spending money on something does not automatically translate into higher prices. The product has to stand on its own.
Though the coin needs to stand on its own merits, I remember the PCGS ad on the high end Morgan dollar that was raw as being an example of "wishful thinking"; in the high end slab though there is a lot of validation. With the cac sticker you have more validation with an active bid market. So with 10 examples of a given coin at the same grade some added validation helps attract added interest.
I pay for the coin in the slab. If it has a label that demands a premium and the coin is something that doesn't come around too often, I consider it the price of the coin. The additional cost of acquirement has to be within reason of course.
Great transactions with oih82w8, JasonGaming, Moose1913.
GSA............a lot
Rainbow Stars
Who lives in a convent?
I love some of the older slabs but as a normal, I'm not going to pay a premium. I might with something like the old large ANACS holders, as long as the coin is something I want.
I usually consider the cost of ME having to pay for adding the "extra" certification and folderol and then base my price on what I think is the value of such to me.
Sometimes, it's cheaper and better to pay up (within reason) for something cool and sometimes it's not.
Also....strangely....
... I consider the coin itself as part of the equation. 
That's heresy among many in the collecting community.
I gave up label collecting a LONG time ago and highly recommend that others do as well.
Of course, folks can collect whatever they like it's just that I learned the hard way that labels are meaningless.
Well, unless the label say "Once owned by the King of Siam"!
The name is LEE!
You know most of us said no we will not I even said $20 or so but a lot of us do. Just because if it was in a ICG we would pay less for a coin or NGC but when it says PCGS I pay more for them most of the time because I can see the quality of the coins in that holder.
Hoard the keys.
For me, it really will depend on what's inside the label as to the premium I will pay.
Depends on the holder - might pay $2000 more for the plastic if I need the coin for my type set.
Stop making us have to "stop to think about" stuff.
I noticed a lot of under graded coins in OGH rattler holders; both Peace and Saints. Some MS63 could easily be upgraded by a point but I probably would not cross them and loose the prestige label.
While coins in OGHs are often conservatively graded, that is not an iron clad guarantee than they under graded or properly graded. Once more there are no labels or stickers that are 100% fool proof.
The only sticker with which I have never had a disagreement is Eagle Eye. I have never seen one of their approved coins that I didn’t like, but I must admit that my sample size is not huge, just fairly big.
I never known the "Eagle Eye" labeling before you mentioned. I will try to learn more about it from PCGS site.
Here is an active listing from Lawrence.