how do you determine how much damage makes a coin ungradeable ?

First off ... Is this dent in the reverse around 6 o'clock damage??? (note that the obverse shows no dent or damage, (from the front on photo)
Second ... Would this dent make this coin ungradeable ?
What is the threshold for gradeable vs non-gradeable where damage is concerned (for PCGS)"
Thanks for any input!
Second ... Would this dent make this coin ungradeable ?
What is the threshold for gradeable vs non-gradeable where damage is concerned (for PCGS)"
Thanks for any input!

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Do keep in mind though that there are 839 other reasons that it might not grade. I've been fixated on the right hand and been hit in the head by the left when I wasn't expecting it before.
<< <i>I have learned as long as a rim bump doesn't distort the denticles the coin will usually grade. >>
PCGS is pretty lenient for rim bumps on older and scarcer coins. They can be visible and distort the denticles greatly and still grade fine.
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<< <i>First a determination has to be assessed as to whether the area affected was done at the mint or did it happen after leaving the mint. >>
Damage at the mint after the coin is struck is the same as damage outside of the mint.
The term "post mint damage" really means post strike/minting, it doesn't mean after leaving the mint.
If the obverse is similar to the reverse, and this coin is in an MS-61 or even MS-62, it might be "upgradeable." If it is in an MS-63 or 64 holder, it probably is not. When I was a dealer I noted that rim marks like this on a silver dollar often knocked down the Mint State grade by at least a point. In other words if the coin would have graded MS-64 without the rim nick, if it had one of two of these type of edge marks, it was graded MS-63 or even 62.
This may seem unfair, but it's still a factor. If this coin is a rare date and mint mark combination, the grading often gets tougher. If there is a BIG price increase between an MS-63 and MS-64 or if it depends upon the MS-64 and 65 grades, often the services get more conservative. For example I handed a number of MS-63 graded 1879-CC dollars that probably would have graded MS-64 if it had been a more common date.
This is a good thing because in the "good old days" some dealers used to get "fast and lose" with the grades when it was a better date. That was wrong because you should pay high prices only for the rare date. You should not be subject to a "double wammie" with an inflated grade as well.
In answer to your question I've seen dollars with edge marks like this have grades, but the mark is usually a one or two point dedection. One thing that would make this coin "ungradeable" would be if someone had tried to file this mark off the coin. Filed rims would make it an instant "no grade."
<< <i>First off you need to tell the grade on the holder that it is in now if you want to know if the coin is "ungradeable." You also need to show us the obverse.
If the obverse is similar to the reverse, and this coin is in an MS-61 or even MS-62, it might be "upgradeable." If it is in an MS-63 or 64 holder, it probably is not. When I was a dealer I noted that rim marks like this on a silver dollar often knocked down the Mint State grade by at least a point. In other words if the coin would have graded MS-64 without the rim nick, if it had one of two of these type of edge marks, it was graded MS-63 or even 62.
This may seem unfair, but it's still a factor. If this coin is a rare date and mint mark combination, the grading often gets tougher. If there is a BIG price increase between an MS-63 and MS-64 or if it depends upon the MS-64 and 65 grades, often the services get more conservative. For example I handed a number of MS-63 graded 1879-CC dollars that probably would have graded MS-64 if it had been a more common date.
This is a good thing because in the "good old days" some dealers used to get "fast and lose" with the grades when it was a better date. That was wrong because you should pay high prices only for the rare date. You should not be subject to a "double wammie" with an inflated grade as well. >>
Here is the obverse ... it's an NGC MS63.
It's a common date Morgan.
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This approach also helps explain why a problem on a modern coin may get a quick "no grade", but a colonial or pioneer gold piece with the same problem might grade. Problems on coins that typically have problems are simply not as glaring, because they are more expected.
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I am not planning on buying it.
The actual reason I posted this is I wanted to learn about this whole "damage" topic for things to watch if I buy either raw coins or third party slabbed coins that I wanted to cross to PCGS
So I thought I would ask all the various experts on this board
Some great answers so far and I have learned a lot already ... so THANKS
By the way, I thought that the reverse looked amazingly clean and well struck (except for the rim ding) ...
I wonder if the reverse (alone) might be an MS64 or even an MS65 ...
and the Obverse an MS63
And NGC downgraded it a little bit for the ding on the reverse ... so it was net graded MS63
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<< <i>No, I did not buy this coin. It's actually for sale right now on eBay (I dont have any relationship to the seller) .
I am not planning on buying it.
The actual reason I posted this is I wanted to learn about this whole "damage" topic for things to watch if I buy either raw coins or third party slabbed coins that I wanted to cross to PCGS
So I thought I would ask all the various experts on this board
Some great answers so far and I have learned a lot already ... so THANKS
By the way, I thought that the reverse looked amazingly clean and well struck (except for the rim ding) ...
I wonder if the reverse (alone) might be an MS64 or even an MS65 ...
and the Obverse an MS63
And NGC downgraded it a little bit for the ding on the reverse ... so it was net graded MS63 >>
As a practical matter the obverse is 70% of the grade. The reverse sort of comes along for the ride unless it has a problem, which in this case it has fairly small problem.
Take it easy.....Leo
<< <i>..... I am very old school and grade very conservatively and also go on first impressions. As for the damaged area to me it makes a difference as to whether the planchet originally was produced with this problem area or whether it happen after the minting process.....and what else I notice on the reverse which does not appeal to me( remember what we all see can be different and how we arrive at a net grade is determined by grading standards and eye appeal)is the bag mark across the eagle's head...in the eyebrow area.....I myself would not buy this coin!!! But again it's just my opinion and that along with a dime will not buy you a cup of coffee.....
Take it easy.....Leo >>
Leo, I'm not sure about your "planchet" reference there, but wih respect to the bag marks, one needs to appreciate that these coins were 90% silver (soft metal) and toted around in bags of hundreds per. Bag marks are very common with heavy Morgan and Peace $1s and as such are recognized by major TPGs as par for the course. I apprecite that you would not purchase them which lends to your eye for the more rarer PQ specimen. Good luck with your persuits.
Cheers!
Kirk
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<< <i>it really doesn't matter what any of the TPG's think, a defect like that would catch my eye every time i look at the coin. i personally wouldn't want it. from that perspective it is "ungradeable" for me. >>
For a common date you are right because you can easily find one without the defect, but sometimes there are trade-offs with better dates for some collectors. For example some collectors might accept a rim nick on the reverse in exchange for a clean cheek if the grade and price are lower as a result.
Also I have been a member of EAC for over 27 years and the standards we use are ultra-conservative and coins, once they are 'Sharpness Graded' can be heavily downgraded due to copper being very reactive to the forces of nature and thus have many problems to arrive at a 'Net Grade'. Also across the board it takes years of studying and looking at thousands of coins to learn to see the 'Sharpness Grade' of a coin and then deducting for issues...and copper can drop considerably in grade and value. Remember the Grading Scale being used in the industry comes from Dr. William Sheldon and was originally formulated to attempt to arrive at a way to price Early American Copper coins.....
Take it easy.....Leo
Oh, btw...what does TPG...stand for???
<< <i>Oh, btw...what does TPG...stand for??? >>
Third Party Grading like PCGS or NGC.
But the key for me is a matter of "will the buyer" or eventual owner enjoy the coin outside of the holder, too ? Perhaps I'm jaded. All coins are gradeable. It's just that the POWER HOUSES won't assign a grade, and henceforth the "details grade". This is a giant step for the hobby and it is "tuition" for each individual on a case by case basis. I love this part of our "free enterprise system".
If the reason for submitting is "tuition", then well and good. This is perfectly fine and in conjunction with protecting the hobby as each person deems necessary. Kudos to those who see this way. As for me, I don't want to waste a cent on something that isn't worth the cost. It's "cointerproductive" and I have budgetary coinstraints out the wazoo.
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<< <i>
<< <i>Oh, btw...what does TPG...stand for??? >>
Third Party Grading like PCGS or NGC. >>
Thank you kindly for the abbreviation...defined!!!
Take it easy.....Lion