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Problems with storing gold coins over long term?

I'm new to coin investing/collecting. However, I have put quite a bit of thought into what really interests me, what's available, and the time I plan to devote. I've realized that I'm mostly interested in acquiring a casual collection of American Gold Eagles, hopefully working my way up and being able to acquire every year from 1986 forward. I plan to choose a specific denomination, grade and grading service, and stick with that during the entire time.

My question is: Since there are 4 different Eagle coin denominations available, each with their own set gold content, should the gold content be a deciding factor as far as which denomination I choose to acquire and the probability of toning as the coins age? For example, would it be wise to choose 1/2 oz coins over 1/4 oz coins simply because the 1/2 oz coins contain more gold and would be less likely to become altered as the coins age?

I am aware that toned coins are attractive to many people, but if there is any difference in how a 1/2 oz coin will age versus a 1/4 oz coin, I'd like to be aware before I start acquiring a serious quantity.

Comments

  • guitarwesguitarwes Posts: 9,266 ✭✭✭

    First of all, WELCOME!

    I don't think there is any correlation on the amount of gold and the way it tones. Gold only tones because of the alloys in it are exposed to air and other chemicals or the alloy isn't mixed properly from the planchet makers. It could be argued, I guess, that the more surface area of a coin the more likely it will tone. Of course a $50 eagle has much more surface area than a $10 eagle, but I don't really know what % of all the eagles out there have toned, especially in TPG holders.

    Your decision depends on how much you are willing to spend. If you want to collect the $50 Eagles, an investment of at least $47, 925 is in order to buy all 27 of them (that's if you buy them all @ $1775 each). $5 Eagles would be at least $5400 right now (@ $200/coin). I wouldn't worry about the toning. Just buy graded ones close to raw prices whenever you can.
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  • derrybderryb Posts: 36,790 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Most AGE toning I have seen first hand occurs in two particular TPG slabs. Gold content of all AGEs is 22K (alloy added for hardness) but each coin actually weighs a little more than its stated weight to make sure the stated weight is that of the gold only. The material content in all AGEs is the same, only difference being size (weight), and finish. Each of the sizes contains the stated weight in pure 24k gold. The smaller the AGE the more premium (price over spot price) that the coin demands (10 one tenth oz. AGEs will cost you more than two one half oz. AGEs). I would pick a size that is affordable to you and I would stick with graded/certified coins. If I had to choose one size it would be the $10 quarter oz. coins. My preference is the bullion non-proof uncirc. versions which also come in a W mintmark in certain, recent years. There are three very unique AGEs: the 1999 W $5 and $10 non-proofs (reason for mintmarks and the mintages are unclear and remain a mystery to collectors) and the 2006 $50 special edition reverse proof.

    Here's a chart that shows all previous year AGEs available and their respective mintages

    As you can see from the chart there are a lot of different AGEs when you consider type, year and size.

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  • mkman123mkman123 Posts: 6,849 ✭✭✭✭
    yes there is a big difference when you look at weight alone. Its one word called "Liquidity".

    Simply put the smaller the item, the easier it is to sell.

    Example: If I have a 400 oz gold bar and you have 400 1oz gold coins, its easier to sell the gold coins than the bar as you can find 400 people buy the coin while I try and hunt for a rich person to buy the 400oz bar. The smaller the item, there usually are more people who can afford it.
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  • nibannynibanny Posts: 2,761
    Welcome to the forum! You will find ALL the info you need to know here!




    << <i>I've realized that I'm mostly interested in acquiring a casual collection of American Gold Eagles, hopefully working my way up and being able to acquire every year from 1986 forward. I plan to choose a specific denomination, grade and grading service, and stick with that during the entire time. >>



    The way I see it, this approach could become boring in the long run. I am for a diversified "collection/stash", still tied up to PM content.
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  • HalfStrikeHalfStrike Posts: 2,202 ✭✭✭
    You may want to look at the gold buffalo coins the mint sells, those have high liquidity and are an easy collection to start.

    You can buy the 2011 and 2012 proof 1 ounce coins straight from the mint now here-

    Buffalo proof

    They also have done the bullion coins and the various 2008 W coins.

    image
  • DorkGirlDorkGirl Posts: 9,994 ✭✭✭
    But the other thing is, usually the smaller the gold, the larger the premium.
    Becky
  • jmski52jmski52 Posts: 22,820 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Let me add another Welcome!!

    The toning on AGEs can be due to various factors, and storage & handling conditions rank high on that list.

    Lots of good advice here. Your choice of denomination does depend on your budget; the good news is that most AGEs are still somewhat available if you persevere.

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  • pursuitoflibertypursuitofliberty Posts: 6,909 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Glad you made it over here Jmsb, as this place is more in touch with your questions. I see you got the PM thingy on now also. image

    As was mentioned, the alloy for all sizes of AGE's is the same, so size shouldn't matter with toning. Gold does not tone ... only the alloy (copper). I can not be sure of this, but the greater the surface area, the greater the chance for toning.

    Anyway, I like 1/4 ozers best for AGE's ... not to big, not to small ... just right image

    Of course the premiums are higher than for a 1 oz, although lowwer than the 10ths, so that's kind of a balance. But at the price gold is now, trading larger portions gets more difficult. As mkman123 points out a 400oz bar might be much more difficult to find a buyer for, than finding a group of buyers of 1 ozers.

    Generally, many buyers would be hard pressed to purchase 10oz bars (and would be affraid of other bar situations), but there are a lot of people who can afford a 1/4oz. I'd have to find as many as 40 buyers, but I could also decide to sell a portion and not all at once.

    Also, since Nibanny brings up that a series run might get boring after a while, 1/4 oz sizes are very, very popular in many other types of gold coins. Adding a few modern commem's, some foreign 1/4ozers, maybe some Liberty Half Eagles, or some Sovereigns, 20 Kroners or the like could add a lot of spice while still keeping with the PM theme ... and many of these trade for no larger premiums (sometimes less even) than AGE's.



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  • rickoricko Posts: 98,724 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Welcome aboard Jmsb, collecting gold is fun and has a practical side. I agree with others here that the smaller denominations may be more 'liquid', but also command a higher premium. I have mainly stayed with the larger denomination simply because I like them. I do stay away from gold bars... far more difficult to move due to fear of fraud. Good luck, Cheers, RickO
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