<< <i>I REALLY like Grits idea of a Confederate $20 gold piece. In fact, I will pre-order one right now if I can!!!! >>
Great idea for the 150th anniversary of the Civil War. Perhaps also a CSA silver dollar for some of us on a budget.
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
<< <i>Any idea on when the matte proofs will be shipped to those that were successful in purchasing them? >>
Now that I finally have them all done, shipping will occur in the next two business days.
PS: These took longer to make than originally anticipated. The "spoilage" rate was extremely high. Nearly 40% were deemed unsatisfactory after the final bead-blasting & burnishing. It is amazing how many planchet imperfections emerge when you sandblast older coins. All of a suden, for example, a bunch of tiny pits or a big cavity or long irregular planchet cracks (delaminations) would emerge when weaker metal is disturbed by the sandblasting.
<< <i>I REALLY like Grits idea of a Confederate $20 gold piece. In fact, I will pre-order one right now if I can!!!! >>
Great idea for the 150th anniversary of the Civil War. Perhaps also a CSA silver dollar for some of us on a budget. >>
A while ago someone asked me "now that you've done contemporary Hard Times Tokens as a reflection of current times, what are you going to do next ?". And my answer was, "well, I hope it isn't contemporary Civil War Tokens as a result of a contemporary Civil War".
But some sort of Civil War sesquicentennial piece is possible.
This year I am planning to make a sesqucentennial of the last Clark & Gruber coins, based on the US $20 Liberty gold and the similar 1861 Clark-Gruber $20.
I wonder if the secret service is concerned about you striking regular coins? Obviously you have the skill and materials to strike everyday presidential dollars of you wanted! >>
They may have to put him on as Mint Director just to keep an eye on him.
Gold and silver are valuable but wisdom is priceless.
<< <i>This year I am planning to make a sesqucentennial of the last Clark & Gruber coins, based on the US $20 Liberty gold and the similar 1861 Clark-Gruber $20. >>
If it's overstruck on a $20 Liberty double eagle, that would be really neat.
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
<< <i>IF the United States of America were still minting coins like this, and they still circulated, these could pass for "real" coins. But the government stopped making real money decades ago, and these handsome replicas cannot circulate in 2011. To say that they are counterfeit (and imply that their maker is a counterfeiter) is ridiculous. I own four different examples myself, and they are as good as any Mint product, and better than some. Kudos to Mr. Carr. >>
Take one down to the 7-11 and try to buy a pack of gum with it. I'll bet you'll find out that one of Carr's strikes CAN circulate as money in 2011. Then go turn yourself in to the Feds! TD
Edited to add: C'mon! I Double Dog Dare You!!!
Numismatist. 50 year member ANA. Winner of four ANA Heath Literary Awards; three Wayte and Olga Raymond Literary Awards; Numismatist of the Year Award 2009, and Lifetime Achievement Award 2020. Winner numerous NLG Literary Awards.
Really neat coins Dan, thanks for the ride. I did not notice anything on your site but do you have any recommendations for long term storage of the coins, I placed mine in airtites but i was wondering if/how you treated them. Do you recommend a acetone bath, any concerns for spotting?
I would be careful DCarr about the pieces with the cud wiping out the date. One of the main arguments that have been made about this coin was that no Peace Dollars were minted in 1964, but with this cud it "COULD" actually be any year Peace Dollar. Now you are walking in dangerous territory. Make sense?
<< <i>What was this one struck on, a copper disc? I see no Peace dollar understrike in the cud area, or the corresponding unstruck area of the reverse behind the cud. TD >>
Read the blog Tom:
"Die Pair 6 Cud die break on date. Broad-struck on 39mm copper blank."
>>
So, if the other pieces were not counterfeits because they were struck over genuine Peace dollars, these copper strikes are..........what?
TD
>>
In a word.................Kewl.
I decided to change calling the bathroom the John and renamed it the Jim. I feel so much better saying I went to the Jim this morning.
<< <i>What was this one struck on, a copper disc? I see no Peace dollar understrike in the cud area, or the corresponding unstruck area of the reverse behind the cud. TD >>
Read the blog Tom:
"Die Pair 6 Cud die break on date. Broad-struck on 39mm copper blank."
>>
So, if the other pieces were not counterfeits because they were struck over genuine Peace dollars, these copper strikes are..........what?
TD
>>
In a word.................Kewl. >>
Here'a another word.......Kounterfeit!!!!
Numismatist. 50 year member ANA. Winner of four ANA Heath Literary Awards; three Wayte and Olga Raymond Literary Awards; Numismatist of the Year Award 2009, and Lifetime Achievement Award 2020. Winner numerous NLG Literary Awards.
<< <i>I would be careful DCarr about the pieces with the cud wiping out the date. One of the main arguments that have been made about this coin was that no Peace Dollars were minted in 1964, but with this cud it "COULD" actually be any year Peace Dollar. Now you are walking in dangerous territory. Make sense? >>
Interesting point.
but it was once a Peace Dollar.
It is now a dateless cud overstrike of a Peace Dollar on a real Peace Dollar. It certainly is more likely to be confused with a "real mint error" in the distant future than some of the other pressings might be confused with a real(?) 1964D.
<< <i>Really neat coins Dan, thanks for the ride. I did not notice anything on your site but do you have any recommendations for long term storage of the coins, I placed mine in airtites but i was wondering if/how you treated them. Do you recommend a acetone bath, any concerns for spotting? >>
Mainly just keep contaminants away from them. The first step in the production process is to sandblast the host Peace Dollars. So that gets all the gunk off. Spots could still form, however. I ship them in non-PVC "flips" that should be good for longer-term storage. I recommend putting flips in plastic boxes, not the usual cardborad boxes.
<< <i>I would be careful DCarr about the pieces with the cud wiping out the date. One of the main arguments that have been made about this coin was that no Peace Dollars were minted in 1964, but with this cud it "COULD" actually be any year Peace Dollar. Now you are walking in dangerous territory. Make sense? >>
Yes, that is exactly why I'm not selling or releasing any of them.
<< <i>I would be careful DCarr about the pieces with the cud wiping out the date. One of the main arguments that have been made about this coin was that no Peace Dollars were minted in 1964, but with this cud it "COULD" actually be any year Peace Dollar. Now you are walking in dangerous territory. Make sense? >>
Yes, that is exactly why I'm not selling or releasing any of them. >>
<< <i>Nice! For some reason when you said you were overstriking original peace dollars, I pictured just the date and mintmark being struck into the fantasy dollars. I didn't realize that you made entirely new dies!
I wonder if the secret service is concerned about you striking regular coins? Obviously you have the skill and materials to strike everyday presidential dollars of you wanted! >>
.if your worried about the Secret Service - you contact them right away
<< <i>What was this one struck on, a copper disc? I see no Peace dollar understrike in the cud area, or the corresponding unstruck area of the reverse behind the cud. TD >>
Read the blog Tom:
"Die Pair 6 Cud die break on date. Broad-struck on 39mm copper blank."
>>
So, if the other pieces were not counterfeits because they were struck over genuine Peace dollars, these copper strikes are..........what?
TD
>>
In a word.................Kewl. >>
Here'a another word.......Kounterfeit!!!!
>>
LOL! You ARE consistent Tom!
Lee in Kalifornia.
I decided to change calling the bathroom the John and renamed it the Jim. I feel so much better saying I went to the Jim this morning.
<< <i>What was this one struck on, a copper disc? I see no Peace dollar understrike in the cud area, or the corresponding unstruck area of the reverse behind the cud. TD >>
Read the blog Tom:
"Die Pair 6 Cud die break on date. Broad-struck on 39mm copper blank."
>>
So, if the other pieces were not counterfeits because they were struck over genuine Peace dollars, these copper strikes are..........what?
TD
>>
test pieces. just my thoughts. its not like he is trying to pass these off as currency at his local supermarket. sheesh!!!
..........so ends one of the most enjoyable numismatic adventures I was ever a part of ...........
despite a near constant griping and bellyaching by a persistent few , D.Carr was never arrested and the police never came ..............to my house either ;
as I got two each of the five sub types - and will sell one set of them for a fantastic profit one day .
<< <i>..........so ends one of the most enjoyable numismatic adventures I was ever a part of ...........
despite a near constant griping and bellyaching by a persistent few , D.Carr was never arrested and the police never came ..............to my house either ;
as I got two each of the five sub types - and will sell one set of them for a fantastic profit one day .
Thank you D.Carr , thank you very much >>
It will be very interesting to see what these sell for. I would think the two proof types are an instant double and only going up. It should be fun to watch
<<< It will be very interesting to see what these sell for. I would think the two proof types are an instant double and only going up. It should be fun to watch >>>
<< <i>..........so ends one of the most enjoyable numismatic adventures I was ever a part of ...........
despite a near constant griping and bellyaching by a persistent few , D.Carr was never arrested and the police never came ..............to my house either ;
as I got two each of the five sub types - and will sell one set of them for a fantastic profit one day .
Thank you D.Carr , thank you very much >>
I second that! (though, I only got one of everything...PP, only 2 of each??? I figured you for a handful of each! lol)
Also, here's a thought....(I know...'he's got a thought? This could be dangerous, not to mention the headache he must have gotten').....in regard to the VERY first 'original 200', or 220, or whatever the final number may show...in his blog, D. Carr shows 2 distinct finishes on the quad-struck 'original 200', those first sold, where the rest were single strike.....should there be a 'Type' designation, like 'T1' and 'T2'???
<< <i><<< It will be very interesting to see what these sell for. I would think the two proof types are an instant double and only going up. It should be fun to watch >>>
<< <i><<< It will be very interesting to see what these sell for. I would think the two proof types are an instant double and only going up. It should be fun to watch >>>
I thought eBay wasn't allowing the sale of these coins? I especially like that this coin is listed under Peace Dollars, 1921-1935... I'm sure 1964 is somewhere between those two dates as taught in our new schools in Amerika!
<< <i><<< It will be very interesting to see what these sell for. I would think the two proof types are an instant double and only going up. It should be fun to watch >>>
I thought eBay wasn't allowing the sale of these coins? I especially like that this coin is listed under Peace Dollars, 1921-1935... I'm sure 1964 is somewhere between those two dates as taught in our new schools in Amerika! >>
I am starting to think you could sell your kidney on ebay as long as you worded the add correctly and no one complained. Anything to keep the profits coming in
<< <i>Also, here's a thought....(I know...'he's got a thought? This could be dangerous, not to mention the headache he must have gotten').....in regard to the VERY first 'original 200', or 220, or whatever the final number may show...in his blog, D. Carr shows 2 distinct finishes on the quad-struck 'original 200', those first sold, where the rest were single strike.....should there be a 'Type' designation, like 'T1' and 'T2'??? >>
The first coins released were 222 of the quad-struck (at 200 tons) Die Pair 5. The finish on those ranges from satiny-matte to somewhat shiny. After that, the same die pair was used to produce single-strike (at 300 tons) "high-luster" coins that have a more-pronounced "cartwheel" effect. It can sometimes be hard to tell the difference between them. Sometimes the difference is more obvious.
<< <i>What was this one struck on, a copper disc? I see no Peace dollar understrike in the cud area, or the corresponding unstruck area of the reverse behind the cud. TD >>
Read the blog Tom:
"Die Pair 6 Cud die break on date. Broad-struck on 39mm copper blank."
>>
So, if the other pieces were not counterfeits because they were struck over genuine Peace dollars, these copper strikes are..........what?
TD
>>
test pieces. just my thoughts. its not like he is trying to pass these off as currency at his local supermarket. sheesh!!! >>
I do not recall any of the anti-counterfeiting laws having a "good intentions" exclusionary clause.
Numismatist. 50 year member ANA. Winner of four ANA Heath Literary Awards; three Wayte and Olga Raymond Literary Awards; Numismatist of the Year Award 2009, and Lifetime Achievement Award 2020. Winner numerous NLG Literary Awards.
Daniel, I hereby vote you, "2010 Forum Member of the Year!" You created a fantastic numismatic product and took lots of heat along the way. You are a forum hero IMHO!! Who was it that said: "Nobody ever kicked a dead dog!" I got the 'PL' and the 'High Luster' issues in hand and love them. Can't wait to get my 'Matte Proof' edition next week!!!!
<< <i>..........so ends one of the most enjoyable numismatic adventures I was ever a part of ...........
despite a near constant griping and bellyaching by a persistent few , D.Carr was never arrested and the police never came ..............to my house either ;
as I got two each of the five sub types - and will sell one set of them for a fantastic profit one day .
Thank you D.Carr , thank you very much >>
.............I lied ,
I do not currently have 2 of each type , my 2 Matte's are hopefully on their way
and I'm still waiting on 1 P.L that got lost in the mail
Wow, PP did Dan give you a discount for the order quantities and PR?
As long as this thread continues I will say that these are some of my favorite recent coins and I too look forward to the new matte I was fortunate enough to storder. Still get the occasional Amero but these are special.
I still am voting for the sequicentennial Confederate $20 gold piece 1861 O naturally! Please!
Love that Milled British (1830-1960) Well, just Love coins, period.
<< <i>I still am voting for the sequicentennial Confederate $20 gold piece 1861 O naturally! Please! >>
Don't forget the Confederate silver dollar for us collectors of modest means.
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
<< <i>I still am voting for the sequicentennial Confederate $20 gold piece 1861 O naturally! Please! >>
Don't forget the Confederate silver dollar for us collectors of modest means. >>
Well, heck, why don't you do a whole set and throw the penny in there, too, Dan? It would make a fine offering! >>
Dan is only one person so doing a whole set may not be feasible. Also, suggest the date should be "1861-2011" so no one gets hysterical and starts claiming that they could be confused as real Confederate pattern coins.
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
<< <i>I REALLY like Grits idea of a Confederate $20 gold piece. In fact, I will pre-order one right now if I can!!!! >>
Great idea for the 150th anniversary of the Civil War. Perhaps also a CSA silver dollar for some of us on a budget. >>
A while ago someone asked me "now that you've done contemporary Hard Times Tokens as a reflection of current times, what are you going to do next ?". And my answer was, "well, I hope it isn't contemporary Civil War Tokens as a result of a contemporary Civil War".
But some sort of Civil War sesquicentennial piece is possible.
This year I am planning to make a sesqucentennial of the last Clark & Gruber coins, based on the US $20 Liberty gold and the similar 1861 Clark-Gruber $20. >>
At my coin club it is usually referred to as "The War of Northern Aggression".
<< <i>What was this one struck on, a copper disc? I see no Peace dollar understrike in the cud area, or the corresponding unstruck area of the reverse behind the cud. TD >>
Read the blog Tom:
"Die Pair 6 Cud die break on date. Broad-struck on 39mm copper blank."
>>
So, if the other pieces were not counterfeits because they were struck over genuine Peace dollars, these copper strikes are..........what?
<< <i><<< It will be very interesting to see what these sell for. I would think the two proof types are an instant double and only going up. It should be fun to watch >>>
So, those that bought them are ‘fools’, and we would be looking for bigger fools if we decide to sell??? Kind of insulting to those that did buy them, if you ask me.
I don't really think that 'the greater fool' theory applies at all, unless it applies to ALL coins, tokens, medals...etc, even the coins you have bought, Dragon. It stretches well past numismatics, and into ANYTHING that people buy as a collectible....is Jay Leno a fool for his automobile collection??? Not trying to 'mix it up' with you, honestly, but can you honestly say you wouldn't like to see your purchases/collection gain in value??? I believe everyone has some kind of hope that the value of what they collect increases from the original purchase price.
As has been stated a million times, "collect what you like". When did that change? I must have missed the memo. I bought/collected these overstrikes because I LIKE them, much the same way I LIKE the HK19 Nevada SCD (which I'd LOVE to own in a major TPG holder in MS60 or better). That medal in MS62 is what, close to $500-600 realistically? (there's one on ebay now, NGC MS62 with a BIN of $1,175, but thats a lot of hopin') The HK-19 has a mintage higher (2,562) than these '64-D 'fantasy overstrikes', and it has done pretty well in price appreciation in the last few years, correct me if I'm wrong (sure, an MS62 sold on Heritage in '07 for $300, but in the same auction, very next lot, an AU58 went for $253...that MS62 price was a fluke...but realistically, in MS62, well, it's an R-5, 'nuff said about that). That is not a coin, but a medal. In '08? The mint had a 'fire sale' of the '08-W Buff series, remember? Look at what those are bringing now (I bought a 1/2 oz, our host graded it PR70, and I doubled my money, after all was said and done....I wish I still owned it, as it's worth about twice what I sold it for....I wish I had the $$ for all the PR AND MS '08 Buffalo coins...everyone knows what winners those are).
Now, don't get me wrong, I fully believe that you don't collect coins as an investment (quick flipping is a different story). BUT, I can't be the ONLY person that purchases a coin, token, medal, etc, and hope it (as well as my entire collection) appreciates in value. I'm not talking about moderns, where the pops can increase 10 fold overnight....mintages are just way too high, and the bottom can fall out PDQ on some modern issues, and only top pops with low, single digit pops are worth anything...use the Prez $$ as a perfect example...look what happened to those....check TT for proof...if you could go further back than a year, boy, you'd be amazed how badly the bottom fell out on them, and I took my lumps on those, personally...talk about a 'beat-down'. Look at SLABS....the PCGS 'Regency' slab, the NGC 'Black' slab, now the 'Doily'...people are paying big money for the PLASTIC...sorry, Dragon, no offense, but I disagree with the 'greater fool' theory whole-heartedly, and take it that you are insulting all of us that purchased them.
Lastly, Daniel Carr’s work HAS seen those increases.....look at the prices his past years Amero's are bringing (hell, they're even being counterfeited by the Chinese now). His silver '06 Denver Mint Centennial commem medal was sold on his site for about $50 in '06, I bought one of each (MS and PR, wish I had bought more), and the latest sale price (2 months ago, approximately) was $231 each (those who bought them are fools?)...raw, in a simple plastic capsule, just as they came from him....no insert, like what comes with his items now, and mine are graded ANACS PR69 AND MS69...I'd love to see what graded examples would bring, but I love them too much to even find out). His items that have short mintages usually do very well. Sure, some of his items have remained stagnant, but that can be said about LOTS of coins, tokens and medals.
Comments
Well, just Love coins, period.
<< <i>I REALLY like Grits idea of a Confederate $20 gold piece. In fact, I will pre-order one right now if I can!!!! >>
Great idea for the 150th anniversary of the Civil War. Perhaps also a CSA silver dollar for some of us on a budget.
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
<< <i>Any idea on when the matte proofs will be shipped to those that were successful in purchasing them? >>
Now that I finally have them all done, shipping will occur in the next two business days.
PS:
These took longer to make than originally anticipated. The "spoilage" rate was extremely high.
Nearly 40% were deemed unsatisfactory after the final bead-blasting & burnishing. It is amazing
how many planchet imperfections emerge when you sandblast older coins. All of a suden, for example,
a bunch of tiny pits or a big cavity or long irregular planchet cracks (delaminations) would emerge
when weaker metal is disturbed by the sandblasting.
<< <i>
<< <i>I REALLY like Grits idea of a Confederate $20 gold piece. In fact, I will pre-order one right now if I can!!!! >>
Great idea for the 150th anniversary of the Civil War. Perhaps also a CSA silver dollar for some of us on a budget. >>
A while ago someone asked me "now that you've done contemporary Hard Times Tokens as a reflection of current times, what are you going to do next ?". And my answer was, "well, I hope it isn't contemporary Civil War Tokens as a result of a contemporary Civil War".
But some sort of Civil War sesquicentennial piece is possible.
This year I am planning to make a sesqucentennial of the last Clark & Gruber coins, based on the US $20 Liberty gold and the similar 1861 Clark-Gruber $20.
They may have to put him on as Mint Director just to keep an eye on him.
<< <i>This year I am planning to make a sesqucentennial of the last Clark & Gruber coins, based on the US $20 Liberty gold and the similar 1861 Clark-Gruber $20. >>
If it's overstruck on a $20 Liberty double eagle, that would be really neat.
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
<< <i>IF the United States of America were still minting coins like this, and they still circulated, these could pass for "real" coins. But the government stopped making real money decades ago, and these handsome replicas cannot circulate in 2011. To say that they are counterfeit (and imply that their maker is a counterfeiter) is ridiculous. I own four different examples myself, and they are as good as any Mint product, and better than some. Kudos to Mr. Carr. >>
Take one down to the 7-11 and try to buy a pack of gum with it. I'll bet you'll find out that one of Carr's strikes CAN circulate as money in 2011.
Then go turn yourself in to the Feds!
TD
Edited to add: C'mon! I Double Dog Dare You!!!
Coin's for sale/trade.
Tom Pilitowski
US Rare Coin Investments
800-624-1870
<< <i>I was lucky enough to score all three
There were five "types" that were sold, not counting the bag handled ones.
One of the main arguments that have been made about this coin was that no
Peace Dollars were minted in 1964, but with this cud it "COULD" actually be any
year Peace Dollar. Now you are walking in dangerous territory.
Make sense?
<< <i>
<< <i>
<< <i>What was this one struck on, a copper disc? I see no Peace dollar understrike in the cud area, or the corresponding unstruck area of the reverse behind the cud.
TD >>
Read the blog Tom:
"Die Pair 6
Cud die break on date.
Broad-struck on 39mm
copper blank."
>>
So, if the other pieces were not counterfeits because they were struck over genuine Peace dollars, these copper strikes are..........what?
TD
In a word.................Kewl.
The name is LEE!
<< <i>
<< <i>
<< <i>
<< <i>What was this one struck on, a copper disc? I see no Peace dollar understrike in the cud area, or the corresponding unstruck area of the reverse behind the cud.
TD >>
Read the blog Tom:
"Die Pair 6
Cud die break on date.
Broad-struck on 39mm
copper blank."
>>
So, if the other pieces were not counterfeits because they were struck over genuine Peace dollars, these copper strikes are..........what?
TD
In a word.................Kewl.
Here'a another word.......Kounterfeit!!!!
<< <i>I would be careful DCarr about the pieces with the cud wiping out the date.
One of the main arguments that have been made about this coin was that no
Peace Dollars were minted in 1964, but with this cud it "COULD" actually be any
year Peace Dollar. Now you are walking in dangerous territory.
Make sense? >>
Interesting point.
but it was once a Peace Dollar.
It is now a dateless cud overstrike of a Peace Dollar on a real Peace Dollar. It certainly is more likely to be confused with a "real mint error" in the distant future than some of the other pressings might be confused with a real(?) 1964D.
<< <i>Really neat coins Dan, thanks for the ride. I did not notice anything on your site but do you have any recommendations for long term storage of the coins, I placed mine in airtites but i was wondering if/how you treated them. Do you recommend a acetone bath, any concerns for spotting? >>
Mainly just keep contaminants away from them. The first step in the production process is to sandblast the host Peace Dollars. So that gets all the gunk off. Spots could still form, however. I ship them in non-PVC "flips" that should be good for longer-term storage. I recommend putting flips in plastic boxes, not the usual cardborad boxes.
Miles
<< <i>I would be careful DCarr about the pieces with the cud wiping out the date.
One of the main arguments that have been made about this coin was that no
Peace Dollars were minted in 1964, but with this cud it "COULD" actually be any
year Peace Dollar. Now you are walking in dangerous territory.
Make sense? >>
Yes, that is exactly why I'm not selling or releasing any of them.
<< <i>
<< <i>I would be careful DCarr about the pieces with the cud wiping out the date.
One of the main arguments that have been made about this coin was that no
Peace Dollars were minted in 1964, but with this cud it "COULD" actually be any
year Peace Dollar. Now you are walking in dangerous territory.
Make sense? >>
Yes, that is exactly why I'm not selling or releasing any of them. >>
What about heirs or an estate?
I'd put "copy" on these.
<< <i>if someone uses a high end laser printer and makes a $100 bill, but doesn't release it... then is it counterfeiting?
yes. >>
still yes.
<< <i>Nice! For some reason when you said you were overstriking original peace dollars, I pictured just the date and mintmark being struck into the fantasy dollars. I didn't realize that you made entirely new dies!
I wonder if the secret service is concerned about you striking regular coins? Obviously you have the skill and materials to strike everyday presidential dollars of you wanted!
.if your worried about the Secret Service - you contact them right away
<< <i>That say UNITED STATES OF AMERICA and ONE DOLLAR?
C'mon, Perry......he's crossed the line into counterfeiting and you know it.
Don't feel the need to keep repeating "The parrot's not dead! He's just resting!"
TD >>
Capt. -
you too should contact the Secret Service and report the counterfeiting
<< <i>
<< <i>
<< <i>
<< <i>
<< <i>What was this one struck on, a copper disc? I see no Peace dollar understrike in the cud area, or the corresponding unstruck area of the reverse behind the cud.
TD >>
Read the blog Tom:
"Die Pair 6
Cud die break on date.
Broad-struck on 39mm
copper blank."
>>
So, if the other pieces were not counterfeits because they were struck over genuine Peace dollars, these copper strikes are..........what?
TD
In a word.................Kewl.
Here'a another word.......Kounterfeit!!!!
LOL! You ARE consistent Tom!
Lee in Kalifornia.
The name is LEE!
<< <i>
<< <i>
<< <i>What was this one struck on, a copper disc? I see no Peace dollar understrike in the cud area, or the corresponding unstruck area of the reverse behind the cud.
TD >>
Read the blog Tom:
"Die Pair 6
Cud die break on date.
Broad-struck on 39mm
copper blank."
>>
So, if the other pieces were not counterfeits because they were struck over genuine Peace dollars, these copper strikes are..........what?
TD
test pieces. just my thoughts. its not like he is trying to pass these off as currency at his local supermarket. sheesh!!!
despite a near constant griping and bellyaching by a persistent few , D.Carr was never arrested and the police never came ..............to my house either ;
as I got two each of the five sub types - and will sell one set of them for a fantastic profit one day .
Thank you D.Carr , thank you very much
<< <i>..........so ends one of the most enjoyable numismatic adventures I was ever a part of ...........
despite a near constant griping and bellyaching by a persistent few , D.Carr was never arrested and the police never came ..............to my house either ;
as I got two each of the five sub types - and will sell one set of them for a fantastic profit one day .
Thank you D.Carr , thank you very much
It will be very interesting to see what these sell for. I would think the two proof types are an instant double and only going up. It should be fun to watch
This should explain it:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greater_fool_theory
<< <i>..........so ends one of the most enjoyable numismatic adventures I was ever a part of ...........
despite a near constant griping and bellyaching by a persistent few , D.Carr was never arrested and the police never came ..............to my house either ;
as I got two each of the five sub types - and will sell one set of them for a fantastic profit one day .
Thank you D.Carr , thank you very much
I second that! (though, I only got one of everything...PP, only 2 of each??? I figured you for a handful of each! lol)
Also, here's a thought....(I know...'he's got a thought? This could be dangerous, not to mention the headache he must have gotten').....in regard to the VERY first 'original 200', or 220, or whatever the final number may show...in his blog, D. Carr shows 2 distinct finishes on the quad-struck 'original 200', those first sold, where the rest were single strike.....should there be a 'Type' designation, like 'T1' and 'T2'???
<< <i><<< It will be very interesting to see what these sell for. I would think the two proof types are an instant double and only going up. It should be fun to watch >>>
This should explain it:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greater_fool_theory >>
Here is one of the "fools", the coin sold for around $90 for bag handled die 6, a few weeks ago.
link
<< <i>
<< <i><<< It will be very interesting to see what these sell for. I would think the two proof types are an instant double and only going up. It should be fun to watch >>>
This should explain it:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greater_fool_theory >>
Here is one of the "fools", the coin sold for around $90 for bag handled die 6, a few weeks ago.
link >>
I thought eBay wasn't allowing the sale of these coins? I especially like that this coin is listed under Peace Dollars, 1921-1935... I'm sure 1964 is somewhere between those two dates as taught in our new schools in Amerika!
<< <i>
<< <i>
<< <i><<< It will be very interesting to see what these sell for. I would think the two proof types are an instant double and only going up. It should be fun to watch >>>
This should explain it:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greater_fool_theory >>
Here is one of the "fools", the coin sold for around $90 for bag handled die 6, a few weeks ago.
link >>
I thought eBay wasn't allowing the sale of these coins? I especially like that this coin is listed under Peace Dollars, 1921-1935... I'm sure 1964 is somewhere between those two dates as taught in our new schools in Amerika!
I am starting to think you could sell your kidney on ebay as long as you worded the add correctly and no one complained. Anything to keep the profits coming in
<< <i>Also, here's a thought....(I know...'he's got a thought? This could be dangerous, not to mention the headache he must have gotten').....in regard to the VERY first 'original 200', or 220, or whatever the final number may show...in his blog, D. Carr shows 2 distinct finishes on the quad-struck 'original 200', those first sold, where the rest were single strike.....should there be a 'Type' designation, like 'T1' and 'T2'??? >>
The first coins released were 222 of the quad-struck (at 200 tons) Die Pair 5. The finish on those ranges from satiny-matte to somewhat shiny. After that, the same die pair was used to produce single-strike (at 300 tons) "high-luster" coins that have a more-pronounced "cartwheel" effect. It can sometimes be hard to tell the difference between them. Sometimes the difference is more obvious.
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<< <i>
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<< <i>What was this one struck on, a copper disc? I see no Peace dollar understrike in the cud area, or the corresponding unstruck area of the reverse behind the cud.
TD >>
Read the blog Tom:
"Die Pair 6
Cud die break on date.
Broad-struck on 39mm
copper blank."
>>
So, if the other pieces were not counterfeits because they were struck over genuine Peace dollars, these copper strikes are..........what?
TD
test pieces. just my thoughts. its not like he is trying to pass these off as currency at his local supermarket. sheesh!!! >>
I do not recall any of the anti-counterfeiting laws having a "good intentions" exclusionary clause.
You created a fantastic numismatic product and took lots of heat along the way.
You are a forum hero IMHO!!
Who was it that said: "Nobody ever kicked a dead dog!"
I got the 'PL' and the 'High Luster' issues in hand and love them.
Can't wait to get my 'Matte Proof' edition next week!!!!
All the best
GB
<< <i>..........so ends one of the most enjoyable numismatic adventures I was ever a part of ...........
despite a near constant griping and bellyaching by a persistent few , D.Carr was never arrested and the police never came ..............to my house either ;
as I got two each of the five sub types - and will sell one set of them for a fantastic profit one day .
Thank you D.Carr , thank you very much
.............I lied ,
I do not currently have 2 of each type , my 2 Matte's are hopefully on their way
and I'm still waiting on 1 P.L that got lost in the mail
As long as this thread continues I will say that these are some of my favorite recent coins and I too look forward to the new matte I was fortunate enough to storder. Still get the occasional Amero but these are special.
I still am voting for the sequicentennial Confederate $20 gold piece 1861 O naturally!
Please!
Well, just Love coins, period.
<< <i>I still am voting for the sequicentennial Confederate $20 gold piece 1861 O naturally!
Please! >>
Don't forget the Confederate silver dollar for us collectors of modest means.
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
<< <i>
<< <i>I still am voting for the sequicentennial Confederate $20 gold piece 1861 O naturally!
Please! >>
Don't forget the Confederate silver dollar for us collectors of modest means. >>
Well, heck, why don't you do a whole set and throw the penny in there, too, Dan? It would make a fine offering!
<< <i>
<< <i>
<< <i>I still am voting for the sequicentennial Confederate $20 gold piece 1861 O naturally!
Please! >>
Don't forget the Confederate silver dollar for us collectors of modest means. >>
Well, heck, why don't you do a whole set and throw the penny in there, too, Dan? It would make a fine offering! >>
Dan is only one person so doing a whole set may not be feasible. Also, suggest the date should be "1861-2011" so no one gets hysterical and starts claiming that they could be confused as real Confederate pattern coins.
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
<< <i>
<< <i>
<< <i>I REALLY like Grits idea of a Confederate $20 gold piece. In fact, I will pre-order one right now if I can!!!! >>
Great idea for the 150th anniversary of the Civil War. Perhaps also a CSA silver dollar for some of us on a budget. >>
A while ago someone asked me "now that you've done contemporary Hard Times Tokens as a reflection of current times, what are you going to do next ?". And my answer was, "well, I hope it isn't contemporary Civil War Tokens as a result of a contemporary Civil War".
But some sort of Civil War sesquicentennial piece is possible.
This year I am planning to make a sesqucentennial of the last Clark & Gruber coins, based on the US $20 Liberty gold and the similar 1861 Clark-Gruber $20. >>
At my coin club it is usually referred to as "The War of Northern Aggression".
<< <i>
<< <i>
<< <i>What was this one struck on, a copper disc? I see no Peace dollar understrike in the cud area, or the corresponding unstruck area of the reverse behind the cud.
TD >>
Read the blog Tom:
"Die Pair 6
Cud die break on date.
Broad-struck on 39mm
copper blank."
>>
So, if the other pieces were not counterfeits because they were struck over genuine Peace dollars, these copper strikes are..........what?
TD
Counterfeits.
<< <i><<< It will be very interesting to see what these sell for. I would think the two proof types are an instant double and only going up. It should be fun to watch >>>
This should explain it:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greater_fool_theory >>
So, those that bought them are ‘fools’, and we would be looking for bigger fools if we decide to sell??? Kind of insulting to those that did buy them, if you ask me.
I don't really think that 'the greater fool' theory applies at all, unless it applies to ALL coins, tokens, medals...etc, even the coins you have bought, Dragon. It stretches well past numismatics, and into ANYTHING that people buy as a collectible....is Jay Leno a fool for his automobile collection??? Not trying to 'mix it up' with you, honestly, but can you honestly say you wouldn't like to see your purchases/collection gain in value??? I believe everyone has some kind of hope that the value of what they collect increases from the original purchase price.
As has been stated a million times, "collect what you like". When did that change? I must have missed the memo. I bought/collected these overstrikes because I LIKE them, much the same way I LIKE the HK19 Nevada SCD (which I'd LOVE to own in a major TPG holder in MS60 or better). That medal in MS62 is what, close to $500-600 realistically? (there's one on ebay now, NGC MS62 with a BIN of $1,175, but thats a lot of hopin') The HK-19 has a mintage higher (2,562) than these '64-D 'fantasy overstrikes', and it has done pretty well in price appreciation in the last few years, correct me if I'm wrong (sure, an MS62 sold on Heritage in '07 for $300, but in the same auction, very next lot, an AU58 went for $253...that MS62 price was a fluke...but realistically, in MS62, well, it's an R-5, 'nuff said about that). That is not a coin, but a medal. In '08? The mint had a 'fire sale' of the '08-W Buff series, remember? Look at what those are bringing now (I bought a 1/2 oz, our host graded it PR70, and I doubled my money, after all was said and done....I wish I still owned it, as it's worth about twice what I sold it for....I wish I had the $$ for all the PR AND MS '08 Buffalo coins...everyone knows what winners those are).
Now, don't get me wrong, I fully believe that you don't collect coins as an investment (quick flipping is a different story). BUT, I can't be the ONLY person that purchases a coin, token, medal, etc, and hope it (as well as my entire collection) appreciates in value. I'm not talking about moderns, where the pops can increase 10 fold overnight....mintages are just way too high, and the bottom can fall out PDQ on some modern issues, and only top pops with low, single digit pops are worth anything...use the Prez $$ as a perfect example...look what happened to those....check TT for proof...if you could go further back than a year, boy, you'd be amazed how badly the bottom fell out on them, and I took my lumps on those, personally...talk about a 'beat-down'. Look at SLABS....the PCGS 'Regency' slab, the NGC 'Black' slab, now the 'Doily'...people are paying big money for the PLASTIC...sorry, Dragon, no offense, but I disagree with the 'greater fool' theory whole-heartedly, and take it that you are insulting all of us that purchased them.
Lastly, Daniel Carr’s work HAS seen those increases.....look at the prices his past years Amero's are bringing (hell, they're even being counterfeited by the Chinese now). His silver '06 Denver Mint Centennial commem medal was sold on his site for about $50 in '06, I bought one of each (MS and PR, wish I had bought more), and the latest sale price (2 months ago, approximately) was $231 each (those who bought them are fools?)...raw, in a simple plastic capsule, just as they came from him....no insert, like what comes with his items now, and mine are graded ANACS PR69 AND MS69...I'd love to see what graded examples would bring, but I love them too much to even find out). His items that have short mintages usually do very well. Sure, some of his items have remained stagnant, but that can be said about LOTS of coins, tokens and medals.