When you are buying SAEs as bullion

Bochiman

and getting them in rolls of 20, do you really care if they are all the same year or not?
I did, but talking to a friend today, who is one of the SHTF type of thinkers, he doesn't care as long as it is 20 of them in each group.
Can be all 2009, 2010, 2008, etc. Or, can be 1 2010, 2 2009, 18 2003, etc.

Do YOU care, if you are a buying of SAEs for the bullion content alone?

jmski52

If I were buying them in rolls, I might care if some of them were banged-up or colorized, but I wouldn't care if they were different dates. In fact, if alot of them were different dates, I'd probably start a date set. (Like that's what I really need - another collection!)

gsa1fan

IMHO, if it wasn't for Coin Vault all gov't issue bullion would just be worth current spot. As it was mint~ed to be

Weiss

My gut says more recent dates I'd like and expect to see solid date rolls. 2005 and forward, maybe?

But earlier coins I don't think I'd mind mixed rolls.

gsa1fan

I will add if I pay spot for them 20 count is all I would worry about.

Now if'in I was in the $3 oz premium per ASE range I'd get real picky!

mkman123

yep I care but it might be the OCD part of me.

I want to see 20 of one year, not 4 of this year, 8 of this year and 8 of another. I want a full roll to be of one specific year

OPA

I'll trade your 1996 roll for a 1 1/2 roll of either 2009 or 2010...Anny takers?

Bochiman

See, I would want them all to be the same date...probably OCD as well

My friend I was talking to today, he said he didn't care. He was going to go buy local (where they get opened, spread out, fingered, smudged, etc, then put back in a roll) but I was kind of planning to sell a few, so he said he wanted them from me. I only have a full 2010 now that I got out of the SDB but I do have some partials. Told him that and he said he didn't care as long as he got a roll of 20. Wasn't sure if that was just him or if others were like that.

1jester

Not only do I want them to be of one date, but they must be unmolested as well - BU. All the rolls I've bought have been this way, from 2008-2010. That doesn't mean I wouldn't buy mixed rolls, however, but I'd want to know exactly what I was buying.

PerryHall

If I were buying rolls of ASE's, mixed dates would be fine as long as they were in good condition and undamaged. After all, I would just be buying some silver bullion.

Barndog

I don't care if the roll is mixed or uniform dates.

DrBuster

If I bought a roll I'd want solid date. If I put 20 singles together as a roll myself, I wouldn't care.

botanist

In agreement with most previous replies, if you're burying them in the backyard, to be dug out only to barter for sacks of potatoes, wheat, and corn, it may make no difference. But if you think you might eventually sell or trade them to someone experienced and knowledgeable, you'd preferably want them to be in unopened monster boxes, or unopened mint rolls, or in complete date sets without conspicuous flaws in good quality albums. Don't you want to leave as many of your options open as possible?

57loaded

<< <i>I'll trade your 1996 roll for a 1 1/2 roll of either 2009 or 2010...Anny takers? >>



OPA you are one step ahead of me!

but to answer you Ron, i don't care. as long as they were UNC (no pocket pieces and there are some). colorized ones? i guess i'd dip those off.

gecko109

<< <i>In agreement with most previous replies, if you're burying them in the backyard, to be dug out only to barter for sacks of potatoes, wheat, and corn, it may make no difference. But if you think you might eventually sell or trade them to someone experienced and knowledgeable, you'd preferably want them to be in unopened monster boxes, or unopened mint rolls, or in complete date sets without conspicuous flaws in good quality albums. Don't you want to leave as many of your options open as possible? >>




In that case you are NOT buying SAEs "as bullion". And since that is what the OP asked about, then dates/condition shouldnt really matter much. I dont pay over melt on STRICTLY bullion anymore, so if I could buy SAEs at melt, I dont care what date is on them.

botanist

<< <i>

<< <i>In agreement with most previous replies, if you're burying them in the backyard, to be dug out only to barter for sacks of potatoes, wheat, and corn, it may make no difference. But if you think you might eventually sell or trade them to someone experienced and knowledgeable, you'd preferably want them to be in unopened monster boxes, or unopened mint rolls, or in complete date sets without conspicuous flaws in good quality albums. Don't you want to leave as many of your options open as possible? >>


In that case you are NOT buying SAEs "as bullion". And since that is what the OP asked about, then dates/condition shouldnt really matter much. I dont pay over melt on STRICTLY bullion anymore, so if I could buy SAEs at melt, I dont care what date is on them. >>



Why does it have to be strictly only one or the other? Why can't they be bullion and at the same time retain some potential collectible value? Wasn't that one of the main points of Eric Jordan in his recent book Modern Commemorative Coins?

gecko109

<< <i>

<< <i>

<< <i>In agreement with most previous replies, if you're burying them in the backyard, to be dug out only to barter for sacks of potatoes, wheat, and corn, it may make no difference. But if you think you might eventually sell or trade them to someone experienced and knowledgeable, you'd preferably want them to be in unopened monster boxes, or unopened mint rolls, or in complete date sets without conspicuous flaws in good quality albums. Don't you want to leave as many of your options open as possible? >>


In that case you are NOT buying SAEs "as bullion". And since that is what the OP asked about, then dates/condition shouldnt really matter much. I dont pay over melt on STRICTLY bullion anymore, so if I could buy SAEs at melt, I dont care what date is on them. >>



Why does it have to be strictly only one or the other? Why can't they be bullion and at the same time retain some potential collectible value? Wasn't that one of the main points of Eric Jordan in his recent book Modern Commemorative Coins? >>




Because the OP specifically states "as bullion". Had he left that caveat out of his question...(When you are buying SAEs).....then I agree with you. Fair enough?

Bochiman

Bullion, but still SAEs. There are premiums on SAEs.
In this case, all pieces are BU (not pocket pieces) and are unmolested (not colorized).
They are "fresh" out of BU rolls that may have had some 1-offs removed for albums/trade/etc.
They may be MS70 but may more likely be MS67/68/69, which is why I called them "bullion" instead of thinking of them as "gotta slab".

laserart

at today's price of silver, what would one expect tp pay for a roll of 20?

gecko109

<< <i>at today's price of silver, what would one expect tp pay for a roll of 20? >>




Figure about $2.50/coin over melt or so. At $29 silver, we are talking about $630.

Bochiman

I sold 40 for $1240. Less than what a local shop was willing to sell, but more than they were willing to pay (win-win)