I'd say that it is touch and go on a retail basis, absolutely not on a wholesale basis.
The appears to have had a significant mark (scratch) in the center of the obverse that has been smoothed over. The obverse has also been severely cleaned which gives it an unattractive pastey white appearance.
If I had $2,000 to spend, I'd pass on this coin, and save more so that I could buy something better. If you can afford to spend say $5,000 for this type, I'd hold out for a Choice Fine or a decent VF-20 to 25. Coins like this are a bear to sell when the time comes for amounts that reflect the market.
Retired dealer and avid collector of U.S. type coins, 19th century presidential campaign medalets and selected medals. In recent years I have been working on a set of British coins - at least one coin from each king or queen who issued pieces that are collectible. I am also collecting at least one coin for each Roman emperor from Julius Caesar to ... ?
<< <i>if you took that coin to a show you'd be VERY lucky to get a offer over $500 I'd imagine. >>
IMO, most dealers at a show would decline to make any offer at all on a coin like that. >>
I find that a little hard to believe given the fact that Gray Sheet bid for the type is $1,100 in Good. You don't see many of these coins worn down to a "clean Good," and even if you do they are usually quite unattractive.
Of course I've been out of the market for these coins for while. Perhaps the early dollar market has melted down more than is indicated on the Gray Sheet. But still years ago I got almost $400 from a dealer for a raw 1799 dollar with F-VF sharpness that had a major rim problem. The 1799 dollar is both the most common date in the series and also a much more common type coin. $500 seems like a real low ball number for this coin, even given the problems.
Retired dealer and avid collector of U.S. type coins, 19th century presidential campaign medalets and selected medals. In recent years I have been working on a set of British coins - at least one coin from each king or queen who issued pieces that are collectible. I am also collecting at least one coin for each Roman emperor from Julius Caesar to ... ?
<< <i>My question was if I paid $2000 would it be hard to get my money back, and I guess the answer to that is no one really knows. >>
Based on the many responses in this thread, the answer is plainly obvious. If you got that coin for $1000 then maybe you could get your money back by putting it on eBay, but if you took that coin to a show you'd be VERY lucky to get a offer over $500 I'd imagine. >>
I strongly disagree with that. If I had purchased this coin, I am certain I could sell it for $1000 any day of the week. However, I would be losing $1000!
After looking on Heritage I found this one which is a pretty close match in problems. It sold for $1685
<< <i>My question was if I paid $2000 would it be hard to get my money back, and I guess the answer to that is no one really knows. >>
Based on the many responses in this thread, the answer is plainly obvious. If you got that coin for $1000 then maybe you could get your money back by putting it on eBay, but if you took that coin to a show you'd be VERY lucky to get a offer over $500 I'd imagine. >>
I strongly disagree with that. If I had purchased this coin, I am certain I could sell it for $1000 any day of the week. However, I would be losing $1000!
After looking on Heritage I found this one which is a pretty close match in problems. It sold for $1685>> >>
The problem with your comparison is that the Heritage coin has rim damage and a cleaning. Your coin is harshly cleaned, has been repaired and no offense, has terrible eye appeal. Also, to most people a repaired coin is far less valuable than a coin with rim damage.
I said you'd be very lucky to get a $500 offer at a coin show. That means two things: 1) You're selling it to a dealer who'd have to sell it for profit and hold it in inventory for who knows how long and 2) the buyer can see the coin he's buying. A coin like the one you've shown us will do MUCH better sight unseen being sold to someone who doesn't have much experience buying coins. eBay is a perfect venue for that and to a lesser extent so is Heritage.
Positive BST transactions with: too many names to list! 36 at last count.
<< <i>My question was if I paid $2000 would it be hard to get my money back, and I guess the answer to that is no one really knows. >>
Based on the many responses in this thread, the answer is plainly obvious. If you got that coin for $1000 then maybe you could get your money back by putting it on eBay, but if you took that coin to a show you'd be VERY lucky to get a offer over $500 I'd imagine. >>
I strongly disagree with that. If I had purchased this coin, I am certain I could sell it for $1000 any day of the week. However, I would be losing $1000!
After looking on Heritage I found this one which is a pretty close match in problems. It sold for $1685>> >>
The problem with your comparison is that the Heritage coin has rim damage and a cleaning. Your coin is harshly cleaned, has been repaired and no offense, has terrible eye appeal. Also, to most people a repaired coin is far less valuable than a coin with rim damage.
I said you'd be very lucky to get a $500 offer at a coin show. That means two things: 1) You're selling it to a dealer who'd have to sell it for profit and hold it in inventory for who knows how long and 2) the buyer can see the coin he's buying. A coin like the one you've shown us will do MUCH better sight unseen being sold to someone who doesn't have much experience buying coins. eBay is a perfect venue for that and to a lesser extent so is Heritage. >>
That heritage coin has rim damage and damage on the devices and its cleaned. Look at the close up, its a mess.
Just and FYI, but there are about 2000-3000+, 1795, Draped Bust Dollars surviving today. They are not rare, and will always be available in problem free condition. Just be slightly more patient and you will find one with ease.
<< <i>if you took that coin to a show you'd be VERY lucky to get a offer over $500 I'd imagine. >>
IMO, most dealers at a show would decline to make any offer at all on a coin like that. >>
I find that a little hard to believe given the fact that Gray Sheet bid for the type is $1,100 in Good. You don't see many of these coins worn down to a "clean Good," and even if you do they are usually quite unattractive.
Of course I've been out of the market for these coins for while. Perhaps the early dollar market has melted down more than is indicated on the Gray Sheet. But still years ago I got almost $400 from a dealer for a raw 1799 dollar with F-VF sharpness that had a major rim problem. The 1799 dollar is both the most common date in the series and also a much more common type coin. $500 seems like a real low ball number for this coin, even given the problems. >>
Everything is sell-able... yet I tend to agree with CRO on this one on selling at a show. Not making an offer limits the chances of offending the seller on an item a dealer just has no need for. I've noticed in this economy dealers are a bit more frugal with what they are willing to write a check for as this could easily become a stale inventory item.
To Err Is Human.... To Collect Err's Is Just Too Much Darn Tootin Fun!
<< <i>That heritage coin has rim damage and damage on the devices and its cleaned. Look at the close up, its a mess. >>
Yeah, it has its problems...but it hasn't been repaired. IMHO, the Heritage coin is worth about twice what yours is. >>
Well I cant argue, you are entitled to your opinion. But, I am pretty sure that if you searched the world high and low you would not be able to get someone to sell you a coin like the one I posted for $700. If I was offered one or the other free, I would take the repaired one and you may not agree, but I assure you I am not the only person on earth with that opinion.
I have been looking for a nice, problem free Heraldic Eagle Bust $ for between the last eight and ten years. I'm still looking. Most of what I see imo are cleaned, AT'd or bleached P.O.S. that somehow got into holders. I've seen THREE I've liked during this time, and I passed on them because the seller wanted too much money each time.
Lower grade, problem free, Bust $s are available. I saw a number of them at Long Beach last week. THE ONLY BARGAIN YOU MIGHT FIND IN NUMISMATICS IS PICKING UP AN ERROR OR VAM COIN FROM SOMEONE WHO DOESN'T REALIZE THAT HE / SHE HAS SUCH A COIN, OR IF YOU LOOK THROUGH ENOUGH BARGAIN BINS, YOU MIGHT FIND SOMETHING ON A RARE OCCASION. That coin you displayed is a harshly-cleaned problem coin, that I would not buy for more than melt. You might get offered a few hundred dollars for it at a show.
Much money is made in numismatics by individuals who sell coins to those who have less knowledge than they (the sellers) do.
"Vou invadir o Nordeste, "Seu cabra da peste, "Sou Mangueira......."
<< <i>My question was if I paid $2000 would it be hard to get my money back, and I guess the answer to that is no one really knows. >>
Based on the many responses in this thread, the answer is plainly obvious. If you got that coin for $1000 then maybe you could get your money back by putting it on eBay, but if you took that coin to a show you'd be VERY lucky to get a offer over $500 I'd imagine. >>
I hate the way the coin looks, and wouldn't even know what to do with it, other than place it in an auction. But, I think ("you'd be VERY lucky to get a offer over $500 I'd imagine") is going too far. Even I would pay more than $500 for it. And I'm sure I'm not close to the top of the market for that type of material. At least I hope not.
<< My question was if I paid $2000 would it be hard to get my money back, and I guess the answer to that is no one really knows. >> Based on the many responses in this thread, the answer is plainly obvious. If you got that coin for $1000 then maybe you could get your money back by putting it on eBay, but if you took that coin to a show you'd be VERY lucky to get a offer over $500 I'd imagine. >>
I hate the way the coin looks, and wouldn't even know what to do with it, other than place it in an auction. But, I think ("you'd be VERY lucky to get a offer over $500 I'd imagine") is going too far. Even I would pay more than $500 for it. And I'm sure I'm not close to the top of the market for that type of material. At least I hope not. >>
Well, the only way to decide this is to have the OP buy the coin and then shop it around at some shows
Positive BST transactions with: too many names to list! 36 at last count.
<< <i>My question was if I paid $2000 would it be hard to get my money back, and I guess the answer to that is no one really knows. >>
Based on the many responses in this thread, the answer is plainly obvious. If you got that coin for $1000 then maybe you could get your money back by putting it on eBay, but if you took that coin to a show you'd be VERY lucky to get a offer over $500 I'd imagine. >>
No one really knows???? I hear a whole bunch of people saying run away from this coin.Maybe if there was a big red stop sign in front of it
<< <i>My question was if I paid $2000 would it be hard to get my money back, and I guess the answer to that is no one really knows. >>
Based on the many responses in this thread, the answer is plainly obvious. If you got that coin for $1000 then maybe you could get your money back by putting it on eBay, but if you took that coin to a show you'd be VERY lucky to get a offer over $500 I'd imagine. >>
No one really knows???? I hear a whole bunch of people saying run away from this coin.Maybe if there was a big red stop sign in front of it >>
I am not buying it. I was only going to pull the trigger if the consensus was I wouldnt be putting me money at risk.
<< <i><< What is up with the label? It appears that it is pasted over another label (look at the top edge)
Hmmmmmm, bob >>
Man get real. >>
Unfortunately, Chinese fakes in both messed-with-authentic holders and fake holders are a very real problem in our hobby. >>
Its goes from from the extremely informative to the absurd in here though. Someone saying they wouldnt pay over melt for it which would make them an idiot in my opinion and now someone imagining peculiarities with the slab. I appreciate the advice that I was given and probably saved some money because of it. There are some amazing experts in this forum that I learn from every day. Lets just keep things out of the realm of ridiculousness though.
I can't say anything on the holder, but don't you think there might be a chance that some people here who suspected something wrong with the slab knows just a little more about slabs and coins in general than you?
You won't get anywhere if you continue to disagree with and debate all advice and comments you receive.
I can't say anything on the holder, but don't you think there might be a chance that some people here who suspected something wrong with the slab knows just a little more about slabs and coins in general than you?
You won't get anywhere if you continue to disagree with and debate all advice and comments you receive. >>
I dont debate all the advice and comments. In fact, I have heeded them more than once.
I am now done with this topic. My question was answered, thanks again to everyone who helped me make the decision not to buy this coin. Many people here really know their coins and I am grateful that they take the time to answer questions like these.
<< <i>Its goes from from the extremely informative to the absurd in here though. Someone saying they wouldnt pay over melt for it which would make them an idiot in my opinion and now someone imagining peculiarities with the slab. I appreciate the advice that I was given and probably saved some money because of it. There are some amazing experts in this forum that I learn from every day. Lets just keep things out of the realm of ridiculousness though. >>
I have to agree with this - and this is typical for the threads that have legs. Lots of good, insightful commentary from the knowledgeable, some who run off at the mouth and continue to belabor their particular viewpoint over and over, and then the downright ridiculous. Most of the forum members are 'purists' when it comes to coins, and that's fine, but in the big world of collecting, problem coins do have value and a market - it's just determining what that value is.....which is the point of the OP's post.
I said I wouldn't pay over melt for the coin, and I mean it. I've been collecting probably longer than you have been on this planet, and I can assure you that no one on these boards who knows me at all thinks I am anything close to an idiot.
Coin collecting for me is a hobby. I am a CPA who also has some expertise in the financial markets. When I want to make money, I deal with accounting, income / trust / estate tax matters, and the financial markets. I know enough about coins that 90% plus of people who think of coins as investments lose money making these 'investments.' Many of them lose material sums of money.
I think too much of the coins in my collection to have it include anything that I consider to be ugly. A harshly cleaned coin is ugly. A tooled / repaired / environmentally damaged coin is ugly. A coin which has been bleached or artificially toned, even if it got into a first world slab, to me is ugly. To me, an ugly coin has been ruined; I don't want it, period.
Any item is worth what someone else is willing to pay for it. With the internet, it is possible to make money buying and selling items that many others consider to be undesirable. Like with any other product, you have to buy an item right, and reach the correct market. That being said, the market for problem coins is thin. If you spent $2,000 for that coin, you'll be buried in it.
"Vou invadir o Nordeste, "Seu cabra da peste, "Sou Mangueira......."
Many collectors at some point feel they know what they're doing and try filling their wish list at bargain prices and are convinced it's a good way to fill the list on a budget. Years later they look at those problem coins and wish they had that money to put towards a non problem coin. Save the money, buy one without a problem even if it's a low grade example.
Comments
<< <i>Is this coin worth $2,000? >>
I'd say that it is touch and go on a retail basis, absolutely not on a wholesale basis.
The appears to have had a significant mark (scratch) in the center of the obverse that has been smoothed over. The obverse has also been severely cleaned which gives it an unattractive pastey white appearance.
If I had $2,000 to spend, I'd pass on this coin, and save more so that I could buy something better. If you can afford to spend say $5,000 for this type, I'd hold out for a Choice Fine or a decent VF-20 to 25. Coins like this are a bear to sell when the time comes for amounts that reflect the market.
<< <i>
<< <i>if you took that coin to a show you'd be VERY lucky to get a offer over $500 I'd imagine. >>
IMO, most dealers at a show would decline to make any offer at all on a coin like that. >>
I find that a little hard to believe given the fact that Gray Sheet bid for the type is $1,100 in Good. You don't see many of these coins worn down to a "clean Good," and even if you do they are usually quite unattractive.
Of course I've been out of the market for these coins for while. Perhaps the early dollar market has melted down more than is indicated on the Gray Sheet. But still years ago I got almost $400 from a dealer for a raw 1799 dollar with F-VF sharpness that had a major rim problem. The 1799 dollar is both the most common date in the series and also a much more common type coin. $500 seems like a real low ball number for this coin, even given the problems.
<< <i>
<< <i>My question was if I paid $2000 would it be hard to get my money back, and I guess the answer to that is no one really knows. >>
Based on the many responses in this thread, the answer is plainly obvious. If you got that coin for $1000 then maybe you could get your money back by putting it on eBay, but if you took that coin to a show you'd be VERY lucky to get a offer over $500 I'd imagine. >>
I strongly disagree with that. If I had purchased this coin, I am certain I could sell it for $1000 any day of the week. However, I would be losing $1000!
After looking on Heritage I found this one which is a pretty close match in problems. It sold for $1685
http://coins.ha.com/common/view_item.php?Sale_No=1138&Lot_No=1171
My Early Large Cents
<< <i>My question was if I paid $2000 would it be hard to get my money back, and I guess the answer to that is no one really knows. >>
Based on the many responses in this thread, the answer is plainly obvious. If you got that coin for $1000 then maybe you could get your money back by putting it on eBay, but if you took that coin to a show you'd be VERY lucky to get a offer over $500 I'd imagine. >>
I strongly disagree with that. If I had purchased this coin, I am certain I could sell it for $1000 any day of the week. However, I would be losing $1000!
After looking on Heritage I found this one which is a pretty close match in problems. It sold for $1685>> >>
The problem with your comparison is that the Heritage coin has rim damage and a cleaning. Your coin is harshly cleaned, has been repaired and no offense, has terrible eye appeal. Also, to most people a repaired coin is far less valuable than a coin with rim damage.
I said you'd be very lucky to get a $500 offer at a coin show. That means two things: 1) You're selling it to a dealer who'd have to sell it for profit and hold it in inventory for who knows how long and 2) the buyer can see the coin he's buying. A coin like the one you've shown us will do MUCH better sight unseen being sold to someone who doesn't have much experience buying coins. eBay is a perfect venue for that and to a lesser extent so is Heritage.
<< <i>
<< <i>My question was if I paid $2000 would it be hard to get my money back, and I guess the answer to that is no one really knows. >>
Based on the many responses in this thread, the answer is plainly obvious. If you got that coin for $1000 then maybe you could get your money back by putting it on eBay, but if you took that coin to a show you'd be VERY lucky to get a offer over $500 I'd imagine. >>
I strongly disagree with that. If I had purchased this coin, I am certain I could sell it for $1000 any day of the week. However, I would be losing $1000!
After looking on Heritage I found this one which is a pretty close match in problems. It sold for $1685>> >>
The problem with your comparison is that the Heritage coin has rim damage and a cleaning. Your coin is harshly cleaned, has been repaired and no offense, has terrible eye appeal. Also, to most people a repaired coin is far less valuable than a coin with rim damage.
I said you'd be very lucky to get a $500 offer at a coin show. That means two things: 1) You're selling it to a dealer who'd have to sell it for profit and hold it in inventory for who knows how long and 2) the buyer can see the coin he's buying. A coin like the one you've shown us will do MUCH better sight unseen being sold to someone who doesn't have much experience buying coins. eBay is a perfect venue for that and to a lesser extent so is Heritage. >>
That heritage coin has rim damage and damage on the devices and its cleaned. Look at the close up, its a mess.
My Early Large Cents
They are not rare, and will always be available in problem free condition. Just be slightly more patient and you will find one with ease.
<< <i>That heritage coin has rim damage and damage on the devices and its cleaned. Look at the close up, its a mess. >>
Yeah, it has its problems...but it hasn't been repaired. IMHO, the Heritage coin is worth about twice what yours is.
<< <i>
<< <i>
<< <i>if you took that coin to a show you'd be VERY lucky to get a offer over $500 I'd imagine. >>
IMO, most dealers at a show would decline to make any offer at all on a coin like that. >>
I find that a little hard to believe given the fact that Gray Sheet bid for the type is $1,100 in Good. You don't see many of these coins worn down to a "clean Good," and even if you do they are usually quite unattractive.
Of course I've been out of the market for these coins for while. Perhaps the early dollar market has melted down more than is indicated on the Gray Sheet. But still years ago I got almost $400 from a dealer for a raw 1799 dollar with F-VF sharpness that had a major rim problem. The 1799 dollar is both the most common date in the series and also a much more common type coin. $500 seems like a real low ball number for this coin, even given the problems. >>
Everything is sell-able... yet I tend to agree with CRO on this one on selling at a show. Not making an offer limits the chances of offending the seller on an item a dealer just has no need for. I've noticed in this economy dealers are a bit more frugal with what they are willing to write a check for as this could easily become a stale inventory item.
<< <i>
<< <i>That heritage coin has rim damage and damage on the devices and its cleaned. Look at the close up, its a mess. >>
Yeah, it has its problems...but it hasn't been repaired. IMHO, the Heritage coin is worth about twice what yours is. >>
Well I cant argue, you are entitled to your opinion. But, I am pretty sure that if you searched the world high and low you would not be able to get someone to sell you a coin like the one I posted for $700. If I was offered one or the other free, I would take the repaired one and you may not agree, but I assure you I am not the only person on earth with that opinion.
My Early Large Cents
Lower grade, problem free, Bust $s are available. I saw a number of them at Long Beach last week. THE ONLY BARGAIN YOU MIGHT FIND IN NUMISMATICS IS PICKING UP AN ERROR OR VAM COIN FROM SOMEONE WHO DOESN'T REALIZE THAT HE / SHE HAS SUCH A COIN, OR IF YOU LOOK THROUGH ENOUGH BARGAIN BINS, YOU MIGHT FIND SOMETHING ON A RARE OCCASION. That coin you displayed is a harshly-cleaned problem coin, that I would not buy for more than melt. You might get offered a few hundred dollars for it at a show.
Much money is made in numismatics by individuals who sell coins to those who have less knowledge than they (the sellers) do.
"Seu cabra da peste,
"Sou Mangueira......."
<< <i>
<< <i>My question was if I paid $2000 would it be hard to get my money back, and I guess the answer to that is no one really knows. >>
Based on the many responses in this thread, the answer is plainly obvious. If you got that coin for $1000 then maybe you could get your money back by putting it on eBay, but if you took that coin to a show you'd be VERY lucky to get a offer over $500 I'd imagine. >>
I hate the way the coin looks, and wouldn't even know what to do with it, other than place it in an auction. But, I think ("you'd be VERY lucky to get a offer over $500 I'd imagine") is going too far. Even I would pay more than $500 for it. And I'm sure I'm not close to the top of the market for that type of material. At least I hope not.
<< <i><<
<< My question was if I paid $2000 would it be hard to get my money back, and I guess the answer to that is no one really knows. >>
Based on the many responses in this thread, the answer is plainly obvious. If you got that coin for $1000 then maybe you could get your money back by putting it on eBay, but if you took that coin to a show you'd be VERY lucky to get a offer over $500 I'd imagine. >>
I hate the way the coin looks, and wouldn't even know what to do with it, other than place it in an auction. But, I think ("you'd be VERY lucky to get a offer over $500 I'd imagine") is going too far. Even I would pay more than $500 for it. And I'm sure I'm not close to the top of the market for that type of material. At least I hope not. >>
Well, the only way to decide this is to have the OP buy the coin and then shop it around at some shows
<< <i>
<< <i>My question was if I paid $2000 would it be hard to get my money back, and I guess the answer to that is no one really knows. >>
Based on the many responses in this thread, the answer is plainly obvious. If you got that coin for $1000 then maybe you could get your money back by putting it on eBay, but if you took that coin to a show you'd be VERY lucky to get a offer over $500 I'd imagine. >>
No one really knows???? I hear a whole bunch of people saying run away from this coin.Maybe if there was a big red stop sign in front of it
Hmmmmmm,
bob
<< <i>
<< <i>
<< <i>My question was if I paid $2000 would it be hard to get my money back, and I guess the answer to that is no one really knows. >>
Based on the many responses in this thread, the answer is plainly obvious. If you got that coin for $1000 then maybe you could get your money back by putting it on eBay, but if you took that coin to a show you'd be VERY lucky to get a offer over $500 I'd imagine. >>
No one really knows???? I hear a whole bunch of people saying run away from this coin.Maybe if there was a big red stop sign in front of it
I am not buying it. I was only going to pull the trigger if the consensus was I wouldnt be putting me money at risk.
My Early Large Cents
<< <i>What is up with the label? It appears that it is pasted over another label (look at the top edge)
Hmmmmmm,
bob >>
Man get real.
My Early Large Cents
<< <i><< What is up with the label? It appears that it is pasted over another label (look at the top edge)
Hmmmmmm,
bob >>
Man get real. >>
Unfortunately, Chinese fakes in both messed-with-authentic holders and fake holders are a very real problem in our hobby.
<< <i>
<< <i><< What is up with the label? It appears that it is pasted over another label (look at the top edge)
Hmmmmmm,
bob >>
Man get real. >>
Unfortunately, Chinese fakes in both messed-with-authentic holders and fake holders are a very real problem in our hobby. >>
Its goes from from the extremely informative to the absurd in here though. Someone saying they wouldnt pay over melt for it which would make them an idiot in my opinion and now someone imagining peculiarities with the slab. I appreciate the advice that I was given and probably saved some money because of it. There are some amazing experts in this forum that I learn from every day. Lets just keep things out of the realm of ridiculousness though.
My Early Large Cents
I can't say anything on the holder, but don't you think there might be a chance that some people here who suspected something wrong with the slab knows just a little more about slabs and coins in general than you?
You won't get anywhere if you continue to disagree with and debate all advice and comments you receive.
<< <i>It is not in the world of ridiculousness.
I can't say anything on the holder, but don't you think there might be a chance that some people here who suspected something wrong with the slab knows just a little more about slabs and coins in general than you?
You won't get anywhere if you continue to disagree with and debate all advice and comments you receive. >>
I dont debate all the advice and comments. In fact, I have heeded them more than once.
But, if that person think there is something wrong with that slab, then he doesnt more about slabs in general than I do. Here is a link to a close up of it:
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4036/4684833693_3acf1cf4e1_b.jpg
I am now done with this topic. My question was answered, thanks again to everyone who helped me make the decision not to buy this coin. Many people here really know their coins and I am grateful that they take the time to answer questions like these.
My Early Large Cents
<< <i>Its goes from from the extremely informative to the absurd in here though. Someone saying they wouldnt pay over melt for it which would make them an idiot in my opinion and now someone imagining peculiarities with the slab. I appreciate the advice that I was given and probably saved some money because of it. There are some amazing experts in this forum that I learn from every day. Lets just keep things out of the realm of ridiculousness though. >>
I have to agree with this - and this is typical for the threads that have legs. Lots of good, insightful commentary from the knowledgeable, some who run off at the mouth and continue to belabor their particular viewpoint over and over, and then the downright ridiculous.
Most of the forum members are 'purists' when it comes to coins, and that's fine, but in the big world of collecting, problem coins do have value and a market - it's just determining what that value is.....which is the point of the OP's post.
``https://ebay.us/m/KxolR5
Successful BST transactions with: SilverEagles92; Ahrensdad; Smitty; GregHansen; Lablade; Mercury10c; copperflopper; whatsup; KISHU1; scrapman1077, crispy, canadanz, smallchange, robkool, Mission16, ranshdow, ibzman350, Fallguy, Collectorcoins, SurfinxHI, jwitten, Walkerguy21D, dsessom.
Coin collecting for me is a hobby. I am a CPA who also has some expertise in the financial markets. When I want to make money, I deal with accounting, income / trust / estate tax matters, and the financial markets. I know enough about coins that 90% plus of people who think of coins as investments lose money making these 'investments.' Many of them lose material sums of money.
I think too much of the coins in my collection to have it include anything that I consider to be ugly. A harshly cleaned coin is ugly. A tooled / repaired / environmentally damaged coin is ugly. A coin which has been bleached or artificially toned, even if it got into a first world slab, to me is ugly. To me, an ugly coin has been ruined; I don't want it, period.
Any item is worth what someone else is willing to pay for it. With the internet, it is possible to make money buying and selling items that many others consider to be undesirable. Like with any other product, you have to buy an item right, and reach the correct market. That being said, the market for problem coins is thin. If you spent $2,000 for that coin, you'll be buried in it.
"Seu cabra da peste,
"Sou Mangueira......."