From a dealer, some "dos and don'ts" for collectors, with an example full of don'ts
DocBenjamin
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Well here is number one. If you are real particular about the coins that you buy, leave the online sellers alone and buy only coins that you have viewed in person. Returns are a pain in the butt.
It is ok to ask for a better price, but on PCGS and CACG slabs, the margins are tight, so let the dealer eat too.
Imaging a half dime isn't so easy, at least at earlier Truview metrics. Don't expect a 70 year old dealer to have the talent of Ansel Adams.
Buy the dealer a martini when you see him. He will appreciate it!
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Where's the example?
Young Numismatist • My Toned Coins
Life is roadblocks. Don't let nothing stop you, 'cause we ain't stopping. - DJ Khaled
1)I accept returns for online transactions. If I believe the return wasn't justified... I block the bidder.
2)Collectors have the right to negotiate. I have no issues with that. I have two words for low ball bids... I'll pass.
3)If I cannot image any coin to the buyers satisfaction... It's a tell and I advise them not to buy the coin.
4)A drink? Two cents plain.
My only real peeve.
If you ask me for my best price, don’t counter offer when I give it to you. I probably won’t accept even if I’d still be making money on the deal.
All the other stuff I chalk up to part of the business. But that rubs me wrong every time.
My Ebay Store
Have you tried doing flea markets? Someone could buy you a cider.
I agree. Countering my "best price" is a pet peeve. So much so that I consider my best offer expired as soon as your counter comes in.
All sellers have the right to eat but too many sellers want to dine out.
Wayne
Kennedys are my quest...
At a coin show, I assume most dealers have some wiggle room on their ask prices so I always ask for their best price. I'll then play or pass. I don't have the time to play games and haggle with the dealer.
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
I am exactly the same way. And I wish more people were. I had some coins I was walking around a recent show. Told the dealer I had my net price on all the coins.
He picked out two coins, and offered me less. Told him that my net price was on the sticker. He made some comment about it’s only $25. If you don’t have $25 wiggle room yada yada. Told him sorry, net is net and went to leave. He ended up buying them, but doubt I would offer him coins again.
My Ebay Store
My avatar is an eagle not a vulture.
When you find a coin on ebay you want:
DO - Go directly to the dealers site and save some ebay fees.
It's funny how "returns" etiquette has changed with online selling. Back in the mail order only day, every dealer would accept returns without getting offended.
What should happen is that online selling should minimize returns since you can get a reasonable idea of the coin from a picture. But sellers shouldn't expect that it will eliminate all returns. Sellers make coins look the best they can in photos and they may not always look exactly like that in hand. Instead though, some sellers get offended at any returns, even if they offer a return policy.
More like pruno, at the neighborhood swap meet.
And if every dealer’s best price were really cast in stone, that may make it easier for the rest of us. I don’t know how many times I’ve been quoted a best price, passed, and the dealer comes back with “how close are we?, or what do you think it’s worth?”.
So what may be one dealer’s bottom line/pet peeve, is another dealer’s first step in a negotiation. I don’t haggle after being quoted a best price, but I also realize that he may be motivated to sell the coin at a lower price if he has a prospective buyer. But I let him make that move.
At a FUN show a couple years ago, I was looking at a tough middle date large cent in an N45 holder. I think the ‘msrp’ on the back was something like $1600. I asked the wife what they needed, as hubby was busy; after checking the price code, she came back with “we’re at $1200 on this coin”, I said hmm, ok, let me think about it….hubby then got involved, said let me see it….How about $1000 even, does that work? Well heck yeah that’s a no brainer. There’s no way I would’ve countered that low, but apparently he was motivated to move it.
Problem is Perry, you also do that at the Dollar store.
The last show I attended a dealer bought me a giant pretzel, with nacho cheese. I did not purchase anything from them (that show anyway). I guess I must be doing something right.
I agree, best price does not always mean best price, but when asking someone their best price, they are forced to negotiate against themselves. I get that some people put crazy numbers on things and then make it seem like they are selling for a deal. But typically, when I price something, somewhere in my head I believe that is the current retail/wholesale price. So when asked my best price, I am already marking down the price that I believe it's worth (to the right buyer) to less than what I thought I should make to get the sale done. So when buying, if price is marked and I'm ok with it, I buy it. If price is marked and I would like a better price, I ask. Then pass or play. I've had a couple of dealers get really upset with me when I've asked for price, passed, then they asked for an offer, I pass, they push, then I offer what I think it is worth.
My Ebay Store
@bigjpst said:
** when asking someone their best price, they are forced to negotiate against themselves. **
Interesting perspective, I’d never thought about it that way, thanks!
On another note, I think dealers universally dislike chiselers, especially on bullion and generics. I’ve seen dealers get outright hostile towards customers that keep pestering to wring out the last nickel from already good prices.
I will add that it bugs me more with online (eBay) sales because pretty much all of my items have best offer option. So the buyer can always just send me the lowball offer instead of asking then countering with it.
And when vest pocketing at shows, I always tell the person up front that my price is firm. So any counter offer is annoying at best.
When it’s a collector I am more likely to thin my margin to make it happen.
My Ebay Store
very similar negotiating experience to @Walkerguy21D at my last show. Viewed and held multiple 4 digit coins across multiple sellers and made several negotiations which ended up less than "best price". Each dealer was very friendly and openly negotiated through our discussions without visible angst. I settled on three purchases and three sales across 5 dealers. A very successful show for me and three type set upgrades were accomplished.
Top 10 Cal Fractional Type Set
successful BST with Ankurj, BigAl, Bullsitter, CommemKing, DCW(7), Downtown1974, Elmerfusterpuck, Joelewis, Mach1ne, Minuteman810430, Modcrewman, Nankraut, Nederveit2, Philographer(5), Realgator, Silverpop, SurfinxHI, TomB and Yorkshireman(3)
When I negotiate prices at shows, I always try and sweeten the deal a little.
Need a thread for the opposite side of the table about what dealer's should not do-
https://forums.collectors.com/discussion/1107061/from-a-collector-some-dos-and-donts-for-dealers-with-an-example-full-of-donts
Young Numismatist • My Toned Coins
Life is roadblocks. Don't let nothing stop you, 'cause we ain't stopping. - DJ Khaled
I think it's all in the approach.
Ask a dealer for his best price. If it's not within your budget it doesn't hurt to give them a nudge. For instance "not in my budget but close".
You may or may not get a response but that's not really an annoying way to get better pricing. It's the truth.
The worst thing to do is ask for a better price after a dealer has already given it to you.
I only go to local shows so after a while you get to know who does what.
Sometimes I scratch my head though. I find many dealers to be friendly but they have made comments to me that have upset me.
There's a few dealers who think they have power when behind the table with inventory.
Education is the key.
I could go on about this subject but I've said enough.
Student of numismatics and collector of Morgan dollars
Successful BST transactions with: Namvet Justindan Mattniss RWW olah_in_MA
Dantheman984 Toyz4geo SurfinxHI greencopper RWW bigjpst bretsan MWallace logger7
Problems all inherent to the coin collecting community and the fine dealers who provide coins.
In negotiation, the first person to throw out a number reliquishes the power, which is why the dealer would always rather hear your number first. As a collector, the only time I ask "What is your best on this?" is when the coin seems to be priced within range, and Im already fairly certain that I'll be leaving with ther coin. I just know that there might be a little room to make it more palatable.
That's why we get confused after we hear "what is your best?" (when the coin is already priced in line with the market), we take a nice chunk off the top, then they say "Nah, I'll pass". At that point, we're curious what you actually wanted to pay and if you're in the ballpark, or if you're just delusional 😅. If the buyer knew what they wanted to pay all along, why didnt they just offer that number to begin with? I cant speak for everyone, but I'm looking to sell coins at a show, I'm not running a museum. If I paid 2500 and priced the coin at 2850, I might say "2750" in response to the "whats your best" question, but if you had just offered 2700 cash to begin with, I probably would have taken it. Sometimes when in the dealer role, Ill flat out say "I paid 2500, so how much more than that would work for you?"
Here's some tips on other phrases that have helped me-
If the price seems totally out of wack-
"I have interest in this coin, but we seem to be really far apart. How close can you get to ____" That way, no one wastes their time
Another good one that makes buyers sound like theyre experienced -
"How much room do you have on this one?"
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Lots of practice remember when first setting up other dealers (some swanky big gun) coming over to my table low ball me at blue sheet, their fancy BS, etc.
It’s just all fun and games, plenty of experience. It’s a strategy game like poker. Excel at pricing knowledge, negotiation, strategy, bourse room experience. Background in cost analysis, financial, teaching evening college acctg. classes.
I don’t owe the counter offer players (hagglers) anything. I just play the game - Sometimes I Just tell the hagglers “that’s already my best price as it’s just $5 over cost” or “that’s the lowest the consignor will go.” Sometimes “do you have one sell me at that.” Others I may discount 10 pct. otherwise they can walk. One needs to examine what’s bid, your cost, how badly want move it, do you have the only one in the room, or they just trying low ball you. Not there get ripped. Don’t let them talk you way down. Leave some negotiating room in initial pricing lol. As far as their question - how much room in this one? You could counter looking at it “let’s see, the consignor, a paralegal - she’s a very advanced, smart collector will take……”. Just play the game, have fun, act professionally, don’t leave too much money on the table.
Or, it's all just lying and contempt for your customers. Six of one, half dozen of the other I guess.
When I do this, I'm always offered a generous 10% discount!
Which means the dealer is actually making more money, and I've lost my buyer protections.
I have developed some pretty decent skills with interpreting photos on-line provided the photo is decent. If the photos are bad or over exposed, which is a way to cover up marks, I pass, no matter what.
I had to depend on only buying coins that I get to see at the shows, I would be missing a lot of coins, tokens and medals.
Not necessarily. When the dealer offers PayPal or credit card payment, they could only be saving 7%. And using PayPal still provides you with the protections.
My Ebay Store
It depends on the price of the coin. With a store, the rate is 9% up to 4k, and everything after that is like 4%.
$6,500 sale will net me like $6,020 after fees and shipping.
A 10% discount would put my net at $5,850.
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Honesty and integrity are worth more than any coin.
If someone doesn’t have a store, then the 13% rate would be around 5,650
, in which you would be right.
With that said though, I’m not sure if I agree that the buyer should receive all of the benefits of going around eBay, at least in principle. If the buyer gets a 10% discount and the seller nets just a couple points more, that seems like a win win situation all around.
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Nothing is as expensive as free money.
Actually, no. If you have a store, you pay a little over 8% in value fees. So, in fact, the dealer gave you 100% of what he saved on ebay. [And you despised him for it. ] Personally, if you want to go off ebay with me, you'll only get a 5% discount because then I also lose my protections and so I should get some of the 8%
Oh so the final net is even more, like $6,080. That reinforces my point even more, that a 10% discount could be plenty generous from someone with a store.
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True story. And when you get over $20,000 total ebay fees can be less than PayPal fees alone if you went off ebay.
Yup. I always worry about selling a real high dollar coin through Ebay, though. Especially considering some of the horror stories we hear aout buyers playing games and getting over on sellers. Has anyone here sold a 5 figure coin on Ebay? And if so, did everything go well?
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8 or 10 years ago, sold an 85-CC Morgan in 66+ for about $4000. Buyer was in New Jersey. Two weeks of blizzards in the NYC metro and the registered package was delayed. Buyer put in an item not received on day 7. On day 13 I spoke with Ebay and was told he would get a refund if it didn't get delivered by day 14. It did, but I learned a lesson about higher dollar sales on Ebay, and doing business in New York/New Jersey.
Seem to have less trouble in the red states.
NB: I never said that the seller had a store. Obviously some do, and some don't. But i also never said how much extra the seller might be paying eBay for promotion. Again, some do and some don't.
I also never said (or even remotely implied) that I "despised" anyone for any of the above. SMH.
edit, I missed something.
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Frankly I enjoy haggling, besting them on the bourse (almost like hunting) even though we may have different goals. Ever see those insta grx videos where the gator (dealer) comes out of the water and eats the cow or tiger. Sometimes it’s smash mouth ball but don’t do RCI for free lol nor there give it away. Yes some things let go at 5pct over bid, it’s called cashflow.
Yes I think a 10 pct discount generous enough. If they don’t pay the money let them go find one. Try have at least some material the big gun dealers can’t undercut you on.
I used a model rare coin business with my acctg students. They learned RCI one of last bastions of free enterprise, if you don’t manage strategy / see the big picture, play tough, you will lose money. Students amazed at the fixed costs of a show (Fees, travel, food lodging, assistants, auto exp, supplies and astounded anyone could make money on that. One sharp young lady said “only a dummy or rip off player would think one sb at 5c on $.” We all agreed an avg markup of 50 pct needed. Which is cheap compared to keystone 100 pct markup major retailers in other areas use. We then worked up a biz model 100 pct for junk box stuff, 50 pct mid range, 20 -25 pct high value range. We Ran some scenarios tight but it held the line.
Yes I don’t see how somebody could make money on some big ticket $2500 coin on eBay. Seller fees 10 pct. Let alone the ship, ins cost and the worry while it’s in transit could get lost or stolen. I think a minimum markup of 20/ 25 pct or just do them at shows (me).
Something else now occurs to me. A "clever" seller can set up 30% promotions and then only sell to those who agree to take the deal off-site. Thereby clogging up eBay and making a killing.
I doubt I'm the first person this has occurred to. EBay is no longer enforcing its rule about contact info in listings.
I wonder if eBay even knows.
While that is true, theres also the risk of someone just buying the coin though right? Even if a seller were to cancel the sale and say the item was misplaced, I'm not sure if ebay would refund the marketing charge.
I havent selected the promotion for any of my active listings, it always says it wants me to use their promotion but when Im already givng up 9% or slightly less, theres not enough meat on the bone to give them another 3%. I can tell it makes a huge difference too, because my promoted listings would get hundreds of views and organically theyll get 20.
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The question: "What's your best price?" I gave the guy my best price and he offers 25% less. My response was: "I'd rather eat the coin without salt and pepper before selling it to you!" He came back around and bought the coin.
Ok, so I just looked at my actives and realized I’ve had listings up for almost 2 months that has just 5-10 views. I don’t even know how that’s possible, considering that they’re nice Pcgs/cac Indian $5s in 64 and they’re priced fairly for eBay. I just promoted everything between 2-4% and we’ll see what happens.
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I've sold a couple 5 figure coins on ebay and several 5 figure comic books without incident. Stories of ebay shenanigans are overstated. Two of those 5 figure deals were international to Canada.
I promoted a couple comics two weeks ago. I ended up with more organic views than promoted views for some reason. A lot more.