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Equally priced, which one would you choose for your collection?

TrampTramp Posts: 651 ✭✭✭✭✭

**Given a choice to buy one of the two coins, equally priced, which one would you choose for your collection? Reason for choice?

USAF (Ret.) 1985 - 2005. E-4B Aircraft Maintenance Crew Chief and Contracting Officer.
My current Registry sets:
✓ Everyman Mint State Carson City Morgan Dollars (1878 – 1893)
✓ Everyman Mint State Lincoln Cents (1909 – 1958)
✓ Morgan Dollar GSA Hoard (1878 – 1891)

Equally priced, which one would you choose for your collection?

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  • BustHalfBrianBustHalfBrian Posts: 4,094 ✭✭✭
    #2, Genuine, (Cleaned, AU Detail)

    The AU cleaned, hands down. A few months on a window sill would do it some good. Dare I say it may even straight grade one day by the looks of it.

    Lurking and learning since 2010
  • gumby1234gumby1234 Posts: 5,355 ✭✭✭✭✭
    #2, Genuine, (Cleaned, AU Detail)

    Coin 2 is much nicer looking even though it may have been lightly cleaned.

    Successful BST with ad4400, Kccoin, lablover, pointfivezero, koynekwest, jwitten, coin22lover, HalfDimeDude, erwindoc, jyzskowsi, COINS MAKE CENTS, AlanSki, BryceM

  • MarkKelleyMarkKelley Posts: 1,738 ✭✭✭✭✭

    2, no contest. The cleaning is subtle.

  • dsessomdsessom Posts: 2,212 ✭✭✭✭✭
    #2, Genuine, (Cleaned, AU Detail)

    Although our host says the coin is not market acceptable, I disagree on this particular coin. (#2) I would take it any day over the straight graded #1 example.

  • bronzematbronzemat Posts: 2,597 ✭✭✭✭✭
    #2, Genuine, (Cleaned, AU Detail)

    I gotta go with #2 as well.

  • marcmoishmarcmoish Posts: 6,146 ✭✭✭✭✭
    #2, Genuine, (Cleaned, AU Detail)

    2 in a heartbeat, what was said above by others is correct.

    Why is @MarkKelley yelling ? :D

  • psuman08psuman08 Posts: 216 ✭✭✭
    #2, Genuine, (Cleaned, AU Detail)

    I would normally be on the other side, but #2 looks great in the photos.

  • coastaljerseyguycoastaljerseyguy Posts: 1,204 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @MarkKelley said:
    Sorry, don.t know why I was shouting.

    Can't start your comments with the # sign. It will enlarge the font every time.

  • Mr_SpudMr_Spud Posts: 4,182 ✭✭✭✭✭
    #1, VF25 (PCGS)

    I picked #1 because it’s straight graded. But if I wanted one to crack out and put in an album then I’d pick #2

    Mr_Spud

  • Riley1955Riley1955 Posts: 136 ✭✭✭
    edited March 17, 2023 1:30PM

    @BustHalfBrian @gumby1234 @MarkKelley
    I don't see any hairlines to indicate cleaning, what are you guys seeing? Some kind of dipping that removes some stuff but not all? Continued education for me.

    Edit to add: #2 hands down for me.

  • MidLifeCrisisMidLifeCrisis Posts: 10,503 ✭✭✭✭✭
    #1, VF25 (PCGS)

    I stay away from problem coins.

    If you made this poll because you are actually trying to choose which of these two coins to buy, I recommend you save your money until you can buy a nicer, problem-free example.

  • lkeneficlkenefic Posts: 7,613 ✭✭✭✭✭
    #1, VF25 (PCGS)

    I said the straight graded coin, but it really depends on what coin #2 looks like in hand. If there are heavy hairlines, then I'd pass. If the cleaning is light and the coin would benefit from additional toning to be market acceptable, then I'd opt for it.

    Collecting: Dansco 7070; Middle Date Large Cents (VF-AU); Box of 20;

    Successful BST transactions with: SilverEagles92; Ahrensdad; Smitty; GregHansen; Lablade; Mercury10c; copperflopper; whatsup; KISHU1; scrapman1077, crispy, canadanz, smallchange, robkool, Mission16, ranshdow, ibzman350, Fallguy, Collectorcoins, SurfinxHI, jwitten, Walkerguy21D, dsessom.
  • WalkerfanWalkerfan Posts: 8,825 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited March 17, 2023 1:35PM
    #2, Genuine, (Cleaned, AU Detail)

    I always advocate against buying problem coins but that one looks really nice. I would make an exception here…Especially, since there is no price difference.

    “I may not believe in myself but I believe in what I’m doing” ~Jimmy Page~

    My Full Walker Registry Set:

    https://www.ngccoin.com/registry/competitive-sets/16292/

  • ShurkeShurke Posts: 105 ✭✭✭

    From the photos, coin #2 looks like the winner. But I wouldn’t pull the trigger without seeing it in hand. Some cleanings are only visible from a certain angle, and when you hit that angle, they ruin the look of the coin.

  • mirabelamirabela Posts: 4,937 ✭✭✭✭✭
    #1, VF25 (PCGS)

    I do like coin #2 just fine, but knowing this is a significant multiple 4-figure outlay I think the straight graded coin will be much easier to sell with authoritative pricing on my side should the time come that I wish to do so. Thus I go with #1.

    mirabela
  • FlyingAlFlyingAl Posts: 2,735 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I remember seeing a slab shot of coin #2, and thinking the cleaning was particularly bad and the TrueView did a bad job of representing the coin.

    If slab shots were available, and they affirmed my opinion above, I’d choose #1.

    If it were really my choice, I’d pass on both.

  • spacehaydukespacehayduke Posts: 5,425 ✭✭✭✭✭
    #1, VF25 (PCGS)

    Folks, w/o seeing the coin in hand, why would you risk taking #2??????????????


    Successful transactions with-Boosibri,lkeigwin,TomB,Broadstruck,coinsarefun,Type2,jom,ProfLiz, UltraHighRelief,Barndog,EXOJUNKIE,ldhair,fivecents,paesan,Crusty...
  • humanssuckhumanssuck Posts: 298 ✭✭✭✭✭
    #2, Genuine, (Cleaned, AU Detail)

    Its not surprising, take a lower end not that attractive VF against an AU that doesnt look badly cleaned from the pics and this is the result you'll get. There are plenty of people who would take that "problem" coin at the price of a VF25 based on the appearance from the pictures.

    Next try a particularly nice VF35 thats CAC approved against an AU harshly cleaned coin and let's see how the straight grade VF polls to a cleaned AU.

  • humanssuckhumanssuck Posts: 298 ✭✭✭✭✭
    #2, Genuine, (Cleaned, AU Detail)

    @spacehayduke said:
    Folks, w/o seeing the coin in hand, why would you risk taking #2??????????????

    I picked #2 because im extremely confident that no matter what it looks like in hand, that i would be able to find a buyer who only cares about getting things "cheap" relative to price guide who would be thrilled to pay me more for that cleaned AU than I could sell that specific VF25 for.

    I wouldnt touch either one if it was to keep.

  • cameonut2011cameonut2011 Posts: 10,051 ✭✭✭✭✭
    #2, Genuine, (Cleaned, AU Detail)

    But did the first coin sticker?

  • DBSTrader2DBSTrader2 Posts: 3,425 ✭✭✭✭

    2

  • 124Spider124Spider Posts: 785 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited March 17, 2023 4:56PM

    Another example of how destructive it is for the TPGs to kill nice coins. #2 is a nice-looking coin, but the TPG decided that it's not "market acceptable." The reaction on this thread would suggest otherwise....

    I don't buy "details"-graded coins, in large part because I have no way of determining whether I'm paying a reasonable price for it (since there cannot be a useful price guide for "details"-graded coins). As much as B would cost, I would not feel confident that I could get a large portion of my money back, if I had to sell.

    I like #2 better, but I would not buy it, alas.

  • erscoloerscolo Posts: 421 ✭✭✭✭✭
    #1, VF25 (PCGS)

    Key date, straight grade.

  • cameonut2011cameonut2011 Posts: 10,051 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited March 17, 2023 4:45PM
    #2, Genuine, (Cleaned, AU Detail)

    @DeplorableDan said:

    @cameonut2011 said:
    But did the first coin sticker?

    Wow, what a humorous comment. Your facetious CAC digs on every thread never get old, and they bring amusement to us all.

    It's a valid consideration. Which one would I likely be able to flip for a profit in the future? If there are some problems that caused the first coin to fail to sticker, then many may treat it as a problem coin too. And if there are two problem coins, why not go with the most attractive one?

  • keyman64keyman64 Posts: 15,451 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Just say no to problem coins. When you go to sell, potential buyers will also only see problems. Would I go for the VF25, nope, not that coin either.

    If buying a 1916-D, I would only buy a PCGS CAC example.
    Also, if you are in that price realm, I would be happier saving just a little more cash and going with an EF example.

    "If it's not fun, it's not worth it." - KeyMan64
    Looking for Top Pop Mercury Dime Varieties & High Grade Mercury Dime Toners. :smile:
  • DeplorableDanDeplorableDan Posts: 2,474 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited March 17, 2023 4:59PM

    @cameonut2011 said:

    @DeplorableDan said:

    @cameonut2011 said:
    But did the first coin sticker?

    Wow, what a humorous comment. Your facetious CAC digs on every thread never get old, and they bring amusement to us all.

    It's a valid consideration. Which one would I likely be able to flip for a profit in the future? If there are some problems that caused the first coin to fail to sticker, then many may treat it as a problem coin too. And if there are two problem coins, why not go with the most attractive one?

    If that’s the case, then I apologize for my misinterpretation. I agree with that logic.

  • JRoccoJRocco Posts: 14,277 ✭✭✭✭✭
    #2, Genuine, (Cleaned, AU Detail)

    2

    Every day of the week and twice on Fridays.

    Some coins are just plain "Interesting"
  • 124Spider124Spider Posts: 785 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @cameonut2011 said:

    @DeplorableDan said:

    @cameonut2011 said:
    But did the first coin sticker?

    Wow, what a humorous comment. Your facetious CAC digs on every thread never get old, and they bring amusement to us all.

    It's a valid consideration. Which one would I likely be able to flip for a profit in the future? If there are some problems that caused the first coin to fail to sticker, then many may treat it as a problem coin too. And if there are two problem coins, why not go with the most attractive one?

    I don't see "failure to get a CAC sticker" as the same thing as "it's a problem coin."

    Sure, if you're buying hoping that the coin is better than its holder says it is, then "it must sticker" is a fine concern. But a coin can be a problem-free example and still not sticker.

  • DeplorableDanDeplorableDan Posts: 2,474 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @124Spider said:

    @cameonut2011 said:

    @DeplorableDan said:

    @cameonut2011 said:
    But did the first coin sticker?

    Wow, what a humorous comment. Your facetious CAC digs on every thread never get old, and they bring amusement to us all.

    It's a valid consideration. Which one would I likely be able to flip for a profit in the future? If there are some problems that caused the first coin to fail to sticker, then many may treat it as a problem coin too. And if there are two problem coins, why not go with the most attractive one?

    I don't see "failure to get a CAC sticker" as the same thing as "it's a problem coin."

    Sure, if you're buying hoping that the coin is better than its holder says it is, then "it must sticker" is a fine concern. But a coin can be a problem-free example and still not sticker.

    It’s not that failure to sticker = problem coin, but failure to sticker could mean that market perception could be that it’s a problem coin. It’s $5000 coin, and if it can’t sticker as a VG, then CAC might think there’s an issue with surface preservation.

  • 124Spider124Spider Posts: 785 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @DeplorableDan said:

    @124Spider said:

    @cameonut2011 said:

    @DeplorableDan said:

    @cameonut2011 said:
    But did the first coin sticker?

    Wow, what a humorous comment. Your facetious CAC digs on every thread never get old, and they bring amusement to us all.

    It's a valid consideration. Which one would I likely be able to flip for a profit in the future? If there are some problems that caused the first coin to fail to sticker, then many may treat it as a problem coin too. And if there are two problem coins, why not go with the most attractive one?

    I don't see "failure to get a CAC sticker" as the same thing as "it's a problem coin."

    Sure, if you're buying hoping that the coin is better than its holder says it is, then "it must sticker" is a fine concern. But a coin can be a problem-free example and still not sticker.

    It’s not that failure to sticker = problem coin, but failure to sticker could mean that market perception could be that it’s a problem coin. It’s $5000 coin, and if it can’t sticker as a VG, then CAC might think there’s an issue with surface preservation.

    Thanks.

    Wow; it's a fidgety crowd!

    But, just asking, how would anyone know that it failed to sticker? Is it just assumed that any $5000 coin would be sent in?

  • skier07skier07 Posts: 3,597 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I wouldn’t buy either coin but if I was forced to make a decision I would reluctantly pick the straight graded one. There’s no good reason to buy a details 16-D IMHO. They’re expensive but certainly not rare and there’s no reason to compromise.

  • DeplorableDanDeplorableDan Posts: 2,474 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @124Spider said:

    @DeplorableDan said:

    @124Spider said:

    @cameonut2011 said:

    @DeplorableDan said:

    @cameonut2011 said:
    But did the first coin sticker?

    Wow, what a humorous comment. Your facetious CAC digs on every thread never get old, and they bring amusement to us all.

    It's a valid consideration. Which one would I likely be able to flip for a profit in the future? If there are some problems that caused the first coin to fail to sticker, then many may treat it as a problem coin too. And if there are two problem coins, why not go with the most attractive one?

    I don't see "failure to get a CAC sticker" as the same thing as "it's a problem coin."

    Sure, if you're buying hoping that the coin is better than its holder says it is, then "it must sticker" is a fine concern. But a coin can be a problem-free example and still not sticker.

    It’s not that failure to sticker = problem coin, but failure to sticker could mean that market perception could be that it’s a problem coin. It’s $5000 coin, and if it can’t sticker as a VG, then CAC might think there’s an issue with surface preservation.

    Thanks.

    Wow; it's a fidgety crowd!

    But, just asking, how would anyone know that it failed to sticker? Is it just assumed that any $5000 coin would be sent in?

    Nobody knows for sure, but it’s a reasonable assumption based on capitalist logic. If you’re selling a coin that might bring 6k if it stickers, and 5k if it doesn’t, wouldn’t you spend $35 (formerly $16) to send it in and try?

  • daltexdaltex Posts: 3,461 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @124Spider said:
    Another example of how destructive it is for the TPGs to kill nice coins. #2 is a nice-looking coin, but the TPG decided that it's not "market acceptable." The reaction on this thread would suggest otherwise....

    I don't buy "details"-graded coins, in large part because I have no way of determining whether I'm paying a reasonable price for it (since there cannot be a useful price guide for "details"-graded coins). As much as B would cost, I would not feel confident that I could get a large portion of my money back, if I had to sell.

    I like #2 better, but I would not buy it, alas.

    But you don't know that. You only know that it's possible to take a picture of the second coin that is "nice-looking". Question: would any of the people who chose the details coin be willing to pay $5000 (or whatever the asking price is) without seeing it in hand, or at least without a full return privilege?

  • spacehaydukespacehayduke Posts: 5,425 ✭✭✭✭✭
    #1, VF25 (PCGS)

    @humanssuck said:

    @spacehayduke said:
    Folks, w/o seeing the coin in hand, why would you risk taking #2??????????????

    I picked #2 because im extremely confident that no matter what it looks like in hand, that i would be able to find a buyer who only cares about getting things "cheap" relative to price guide who would be thrilled to pay me more for that cleaned AU than I could sell that specific VF25 for.

    I wouldnt touch either one if it was to keep.

    Remind me never to buy a coin from you...................................................


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  • spacehaydukespacehayduke Posts: 5,425 ✭✭✭✭✭
    #1, VF25 (PCGS)

    @124Spider said:
    Another example of how destructive it is for the TPGs to kill nice coins. #2 is a nice-looking coin, but the TPG decided that it's not "market acceptable." The reaction on this thread would suggest otherwise....

    I don't buy "details"-graded coins, in large part because I have no way of determining whether I'm paying a reasonable price for it (since there cannot be a useful price guide for "details"-graded coins). As much as B would cost, I would not feel confident that I could get a large portion of my money back, if I had to sell.

    I like #2 better, but I would not buy it, alas.

    Sure but you are judging it solely from images, see it in hand and say again #2 is better...................


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  • Dave99BDave99B Posts: 8,311 ✭✭✭✭✭
    #1, VF25 (PCGS)

    1 for me.

    Dave

    Always looking for original, better date VF20-VF35 Barber quarters and halves, and a quality beer.
  • spacehaydukespacehayduke Posts: 5,425 ✭✭✭✭✭
    #1, VF25 (PCGS)

    @skier07 said:
    I wouldn’t buy either coin but if I was forced to make a decision I would reluctantly pick the straight graded one. There’s no good reason to buy a details 16-D IMHO. They’re expensive but certainly not rare and there’s no reason to compromise.

    All 16-D's are way overpriced to the point of ridiculousness. Despite being a key, it is as common as mud in a wet field except in MS grades where it is uncommon (certainly not rare). But bc it is called a key, demand is high and folks pay way too much for these. So I agree with you that I would not spend my money on either, or, any other 16-D in existence. Certainly for the money for one of these in any grade one can buy truly rare coins in less common series.....................


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  • NickelMikeNickelMike Posts: 187 ✭✭✭

    Straight grade for me. Thanks!

  • 124Spider124Spider Posts: 785 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited March 17, 2023 8:53PM

    @DeplorableDan said:

    @124Spider said:

    @DeplorableDan said:

    @124Spider said:

    @cameonut2011 said:

    @DeplorableDan said:

    @cameonut2011 said:
    But did the first coin sticker?

    Wow, what a humorous comment. Your facetious CAC digs on every thread never get old, and they bring amusement to us all.

    It's a valid consideration. Which one would I likely be able to flip for a profit in the future? If there are some problems that caused the first coin to fail to sticker, then many may treat it as a problem coin too. And if there are two problem coins, why not go with the most attractive one?

    I don't see "failure to get a CAC sticker" as the same thing as "it's a problem coin."

    Sure, if you're buying hoping that the coin is better than its holder says it is, then "it must sticker" is a fine concern. But a coin can be a problem-free example and still not sticker.

    It’s not that failure to sticker = problem coin, but failure to sticker could mean that market perception could be that it’s a problem coin. It’s $5000 coin, and if it can’t sticker as a VG, then CAC might think there’s an issue with surface preservation.

    Thanks.

    Wow; it's a fidgety crowd!

    But, just asking, how would anyone know that it failed to sticker? Is it just assumed that any $5000 coin would be sent in?

    Nobody knows for sure, but it’s a reasonable assumption based on capitalist logic. If you’re selling a coin that might bring 6k if it stickers, and 5k if it doesn’t, wouldn’t you spend $35 (formerly $16) to send it in and try?

    Yeah; makes sense. Except I'm sure it's not universally followed. I have ne> @daltex said:

    @124Spider said:
    Another example of how destructive it is for the TPGs to kill nice coins. #2 is a nice-looking coin, but the TPG decided that it's not "market acceptable." The reaction on this thread would suggest otherwise....

    I don't buy "details"-graded coins, in large part because I have no way of determining whether I'm paying a reasonable price for it (since there cannot be a useful price guide for "details"-graded coins). As much as B would cost, I would not feel confident that I could get a large portion of my money back, if I had to sell.

    I like #2 better, but I would not buy it, alas.

    But you don't know that. You only know that it's possible to take a picture of the second coin that is "nice-looking". Question: would any of the people who chose the details coin be willing to pay $5000 (or whatever the asking price is) without seeing it in hand, or at least without a full return privilege?

    I do know that it's silly to throw many of the coins they do into a body bag, because of some mystical set of criteria, which are, in fact, pretty decent coins, while they straight-grade lots of pretty ugly coins.

    As to whether people would pay without seeing it "in hand," I would say, with certainty, that many would, were it not entombed in a body bag. Straight-grade that coin, and it's worth a lot more than $5000. In hand. To many people. With a full return privilege. Also, of course, I wouldn't buy any coin, remotely, without a clear return privilege.

    The problem is the binary world the TPGs have created, in which every straight-graded coin, no matter how ugly, exists on a higher plane than every details-graded coin, no matter how attractive.

  • 124Spider124Spider Posts: 785 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @spacehayduke said:

    @124Spider said:
    Another example of how destructive it is for the TPGs to kill nice coins. #2 is a nice-looking coin, but the TPG decided that it's not "market acceptable." The reaction on this thread would suggest otherwise....

    I don't buy "details"-graded coins, in large part because I have no way of determining whether I'm paying a reasonable price for it (since there cannot be a useful price guide for "details"-graded coins). As much as B would cost, I would not feel confident that I could get a large portion of my money back, if I had to sell.

    I like #2 better, but I would not buy it, alas.

    Sure but you are judging it solely from images, see it in hand and say again #2 is better...................

    Sure. But I wish the TPGs would leave that up to us. Without doubt, there are many coins with details-grades that are, in fact, quite attractive in hand, while we all know that there are lots of ugly coins that get straight grades. That's a flawed system.

  • humanssuckhumanssuck Posts: 298 ✭✭✭✭✭
    #2, Genuine, (Cleaned, AU Detail)

    @daltex said:

    @124Spider said:
    Another example of how destructive it is for the TPGs to kill nice coins. #2 is a nice-looking coin, but the TPG decided that it's not "market acceptable." The reaction on this thread would suggest otherwise....

    I don't buy "details"-graded coins, in large part because I have no way of determining whether I'm paying a reasonable price for it (since there cannot be a useful price guide for "details"-graded coins). As much as B would cost, I would not feel confident that I could get a large portion of my money back, if I had to sell.

    I like #2 better, but I would not buy it, alas.

    But you don't know that. You only know that it's possible to take a picture of the second coin that is "nice-looking". Question: would any of the people who chose the details coin be willing to pay $5000 (or whatever the asking price is) without seeing it in hand, or at least without a full return privilege?

    The original post specifically asked which would you buy if they were equally priced. Go look at the auction histories. An AU details 1916-d is worth well over $1000 more than a VF25 straight grade on the market. In this scenario where you only have these 2 to pick from, why would anyone ever select the VF?

    As I stated in my earlier post, i would not select either for my collection, but if I had to choose one of these given the same price tag, its a no brainer for #2.

    If you changed the question to which one of these would you buy if each one was listed at its market price, then many people would probably change their answers.

  • jmlanzafjmlanzaf Posts: 31,237 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @Riley1955 said:
    @BustHalfBrian @gumby1234 @MarkKelley
    I don't see any hairlines to indicate cleaning, what are you guys seeing? Some kind of dipping that removes some stuff but not all? Continued education for me.

    Edit to add: #2 hands down for me.

    They are saying "if". Photos can be deceiving.

  • shishshish Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭✭✭
    #2, Genuine, (Cleaned, AU Detail)

    I recommend in hand inspection. If I was forced to choose from these images #2.

    Liberty Seated and Trade Dollar Specialist

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