Starting My Type Set - Now I Have To Pick One Of These
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These all look very nice to me. But i cant afford them all right now. So i will pick one to kick off the set. 4 are in my budget, one coin would be moon money.
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Comments
Overall appearance-wise I like the Buffalo, and the Seated Lib Quarter. The toning on the Indian looks... odd to me for some reason.
RIP Mom- 1932-2012
If you're looking for opinions, I think that knowing the assigned grades is important. For example, if two of the coins look essentially equally desirable, but one of them is graded two points higher, I'd likely recommend the lower grade example. Or if one of the coins looks over-graded or, considering the grade, less than desirable, it might be a thumbs-down candidate.
That said, if you prefer not to disclose that information, that's your prerogative.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
Familiar with the Buffalo. Initially thought it was the EXTREMELY rare DDO, but now convinced its just the regular issue, although a beautiful example. If those are the grades you're looking at for a type set, it will be something to see.
Start with the toughest. I am exceedingly happy I did that.
Worked backwards through the 7070.
By the time I got to first page, I couldn't afford tha ones I had.
To answer the OP's question directly: I'd choose the 1912 V nickel.
peacockcoins
I agree with Mark @MFeld
Knowing the grades, and maybe considering the prices vs the grades, would be important here. Maybe sharing with someone you trust on a PM might be helpful. Coins are hard to judge by images alone, with Proofs being more difficult.
Are you going to have Proof and Business strikes for your Type Set, just Proofs, or have you considered?
Have you considered a grade, or grade range that you want to pursue, and are comfortable you understand?
All that said, none of the coins presented appear to be universally attractive for the issue (at least to my eyes) EXCEPT for the Buffalo, which is a very clean, attractive, and probably almost universally appealing coin for the type. That's not to say the others are not attractive, they all are, but each might find a slightly less universal appeal.
my 2c ... for whatever that's worth
“We are only their care-takers,” he posed, “if we take good care of them, then centuries from now they may still be here … ”
Todd - BHNC #242
The 1866 "Rays" Shield is a scarcer type than the rest. That is the coin I would go for first. The more common types will always be available. Buy those last.
None of those types are especially rare. I'd go with whichever coin provides the most in terms of desirability and potential enjoyment, weighed against the grade and price considerations.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
1st, pick the coin you absolutely can't live without.
2nd, can you afford this coin under the best of circumstances?
3rd, if yes, then that is your choice, ezpz.
4th, if no and have exhausted every possible means of affording it, then go to #1 and start over with 2nd choice.
They are all beautful coins and would enhance most any collection. Good luck.
Jim
When a man who is honestly mistaken hears the truth, he will either quit being mistaken or cease to be honest....Abraham Lincoln
Patriotism is supporting your country all the time, and your government when it deserves it.....Mark Twain
My response is Wow!! The only thing that came to mind is.....if you're starting a type set off with this standard, you will have an amazing set when you're done! 👍🏻
Keep us posted.
Disclaimer: I'm not a dealer, trader, grader, investor or professional numismatist. I'm just a hobbyist. (To protect me but mostly you! 🤣 )
Looks like the buffalo is gone.
The ihc does look cartoony colored the more i look at it.
Im leaning towards the v nickel or the seated lib.
V nickel is PR66 pcgs cac - $1,500
Seated lib is PR63 pcgs cac - $1,250
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Have you checked to see what nice looking PCGS/CAC PR66 Liberty Nickels having been selling for? I have the same question about PCGS/CAC PR63 Seated Quarters? I advise patience and caution.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
I like the Liberty Nickel the best but not for the $$$ asked. As @MFeld advises use patience. Look at dozens if not hundreds of coins each day to train your eye. When the right coin at the right price pops up..and it will..move quickly or it will disappear quickly like the Buffalo did. Best of luck and keep us posted.
@Shane6596
The Lib Nickel is readily available nicer than that. The spotting all over the front would drive me crazy. It's also priced like a 66+, and IMO it's almost double what the price should be. Another case of a dealer asking for a large toning premium, and to me that's not attractive toning.
The penny, well, "cartoony" as you said it is a great way to put it. Hard pass.
The shield nickel is pretty nice, but I would pass on it with the splotchiness on the front and streaks across the prime focal areas on the back. (I collect primarily shield nickels, and while they aren't easy to find nicer, it can be done.)
The buffalo I really like, but that's a moot point if it's sold.
The quarter is ok if you like the toning, but IMO the dealer has added ~$350 to the asking price of the coin for the toning. I wouldn't buy it over $900.
One of the hardest things to do when you're first starting and need everything is to go slow. There are a lot of coins out there, and you should not settle for anything less than something you absolutely love in the quality you're looking for, especially when you are talking about a type set in that era. Also, as MFeld said, do some more research on what things have been selling for, there is a lot of information available out there.
Seated Liberty Quarter (if the price is tight, this is a hobby and not an investment).
Wow... beautiful coins for sure and please let us know how the set progresses. Doing a Type Set at that standard requires a good eye and a heck of a lot of patience... along with really deep pockets!
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Start with the one you think would be the most difficult to find later.
I like that quarter
Agreed. That is a beautiful coin.
They are all proof coins. Is it typical to use proofs in a type set? I had always thought of type sets as business strikes. I suppose you could use either now that I think about it, and many proof coins are actually less expensive. Hmm.
Dwayne F. Sessom
Ebay ID: V-Nickel-Coins
Is the asking price, relative to other very nice examples of the same grade, irrelevant? If not, you might want to check and see what they typically bring.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
A similar example (66 with similar eye appeal) went for $1680 in 2021. I’d say the price might be high, but with more research I might consider it fair.
Coin Photographer.
They can be constructed however the collector desires. I like to use proofs where possible in my type set because it's the best chance to have as good of an example of the design of the coin as possible.
This makes a lot of sense. I'm not sure why it never occurred to me before.
Dwayne F. Sessom
Ebay ID: V-Nickel-Coins
Quite typical. About one-third of my non-gold type set is comprised of proofs, including many 19th century types.
Nothing is as expensive as free money.
Did you search by date or type? Below are just a few of the latter. In the case of Liberty nickels and some other Proof type coins, most dates are worth similar amounts, so research should be by type, not just date.
1) $720 https://coins.ha.com/itm/liberty-nickels/nickels/1907-5c-pr66-pcgs-cac-pcgs-population-57-28-ngc-census-65-9-cdn-550-whsle-bid-for-ngc-pcgs-pr66-mintage-1-475/a/132307-25101.s?ic4=ListView-ShortDescription-071515
2) $1080 (PR66+ Cameo) https://coins.ha.com/itm/liberty-nickels/nickels/1903-5c-pr66-cameo-pcgs-cac-pcgs-population-35-12-and-6-10-ngc-census-26-14-and-3-1-pr66-mintage-1-790/a/132246-25069.s?ic4=ListView-ShortDescription-071515
3) $870 https://coins.ha.com/itm/liberty-nickels/nickels/1883-5c-no-cents-pr66-pcgs-cac-pcgs-population-96-11-ngc-census-88-18-cdn-620-whsle-bid-for-ngc-pcgs-pr66-min/a/132231-21103.s?ic4=ListView-ShortDescription-071515
4) $1020 (PR66+) https://coins.ha.com/itm/liberty-nickels/nickels/1892-5c-pr66-pcgs-cac-ex-pat-johnson-collection-pcgs-population-31-2-ngc-census-46-5-cdn-550-whsle-bid-for/a/132227-21150.s?ic4=ListView-ShortDescription-071515
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
I thought you were implying the price was too high for the particular coin, so my comment was addressing that.
I do agree you could likely find a similar type coin for cheaper.
Coin Photographer.
Yes, it’s VERY common to use a mix of Proof and Business Strikes in a Type Set. The whole purpose of a Type Set is to show what each design was designed to look like, and Proof coins, often with their sharper strikes and watery mirrors, do just that. Surprisingly, depending on the grade, Proof coins can often be less expensive than a Mint State coin in the same grade, yet the Proof coin, for the reasons stated above, often have nicer eye appeal.
I encourage you to look at my Dansco 7070 Registry Set via the hotlink in my “signature line” below.
Steve
My collecting “Pride & Joy” is my PCGS Registry Dansco 7070 Set:
https://www.pcgs.com/setregistry/type-sets/design-type-sets/complete-dansco-7070-modified-type-set-1796-date/publishedset/213996
I understand the Buffalo is gone, but I’d like to use that as an example to make a point with a question:
Being this is a Type Set, and like all of us, your funds for this set are not unlimited, why consider that 1915 Buffalo, when for the same dollars you could probably buy a higher grade coin for your Type Set that could then have potentially nicer eye appeal if you went with a more common date? Naturally, every coin you buy must have the eye appeal YOU want, but that can likely still be accomplished with a more common date in a higher grade.
I understand there is no right or wrong way for a collector to make this choice. Just wondering about your thoughts on my question?
Steve
My collecting “Pride & Joy” is my PCGS Registry Dansco 7070 Set:
https://www.pcgs.com/setregistry/type-sets/design-type-sets/complete-dansco-7070-modified-type-set-1796-date/publishedset/213996
@Shane6596... Is that really the color of the 1912 V nickel? Weird. I would have picked the Buffalo nickel... mainly because that coin appealed to me more than any of the others. Good luck with your selection. Cheers, RickO
Reading @ricko's post got me thinking. Hopefully Shane doesn't mind.
I'm going to share part of a PM, with my thoughts to Shane, regarding these coins.
These are my own personal opinions, based on the images that were provided. None of the rest of the PM is being shared.
.
I'm just a hack, but I will say why I said what I said in your thread about the coins you posted.
The Liberty Nickel is a common date with a somewhat "different" color. CAC liked it, so 99.9% it's good, but it is probably darker in hand. Appears very high grade, but that's a lot of money. Is it designated CAM or DCAM?
The Indian Cent color is off (no idea on grade or price), and that will hurt you longer term, UNLESS you love it, in which case, only buy at a reduced price from market (it won't get top dollar).
The Shield Nickel is high grade but has a few spots and planchet issues. Looks very high grade, maybe CAM or DCAM? I would be careful, but might be a good coin if the grade and price are right.
I said I thought the Buffalo Nickel was a winner (although I never knew the price or grade). Universal appeal for a Buff Nick.
The Quarter. Hmmm, where to start? The color may or may not be attractive in hand, but splotchy isn't high on most peoples list. Neither is PF63 as a grade. You are probably going to be somewhat disappointed in-hand with almost any PF63 as well, as very likely there will be noticeable hairlines. That one has some unfortunate hits and marks too; Liberty's jaw, across her breast. Finally, regardless of price, I think the image had to be processed a little to get the color to pop.
“We are only their care-takers,” he posed, “if we take good care of them, then centuries from now they may still be here … ”
Todd - BHNC #242
I think after reading the feedback i will pause on any purchase at this time. There will be other coins.
I do see now what most are expressing about condition and prices of coins shown.
I will gather up a selection i find appealing in a few weeks and post them to see if any are more in the ballpark.
I appreciate everyone taking their time to point out potential issues.
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To echo what @winesteven said, the typical type set approach involves maximizing the grade and eye appeal within each series, which means buying higher graded examples of more common dates. For example, the PCGS Guide value of a 1938-D Buffalo 5c in MS67+ is less than a 1915 in 66.
I’d recommend taking time to plan your total set budget, and then per coin budget. You can use the weighted averages in the Registry Type set to calculate a per coin budget. That will inform the target grade for each coin. It’s a little work up front, but having predetermined criteria makes things much, much easier as you work to assemble your set.
Nothing is as expensive as free money.
>
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As a counterpoint, a point down with great eye appeal and a slightly or noticeably better date is not a bad way to go either.
Using Standing Lib's as an example, I would rather own, say, a wonderful 1924-D MS66, than a similarly wonderful 19-P in MS67 (about the same prices - I used non FH #'s). The quality is fairly similar, and possibly indiscernible to many, but the desirability of the date favors the 24-D by a good margin.
My opinion anyway.
“We are only their care-takers,” he posed, “if we take good care of them, then centuries from now they may still be here … ”
Todd - BHNC #242
@pursuitofliberty along the same lines, my Lincoln cent type example is an ‘09 VDB in 66+, not a completely uninteresting Shield reverse in PR70DCAM, even though the latter would give me more Registry points.
Nothing is as expensive as free money.
And that’s what makes the world go around! There is no right or wrong. As one can guess, my choice would be the MS67 in the more common date for the same money as the tougher date graded MS66. I prefer having Type Set coins with fewer “distractions” on a 67 compared to a 66. There’s a reason the 66 was graded as it was, and not graded as a 67. And for that reason, that’s why I choose to go with the higher grade.
My collecting “Pride & Joy” is my PCGS Registry Dansco 7070 Set:
https://www.pcgs.com/setregistry/type-sets/design-type-sets/complete-dansco-7070-modified-type-set-1796-date/publishedset/213996
I did find this one. I really like it. Does this seem like a good coin at a fair price? $530
Thoughts?
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That spot on the cheek would drive me nuts, some would not even notice it. I would pass for that reason, but that doesn't mean that you should if you like the coin.
My Collection of Old Holders
Never a slave to one plastic brand will I ever be.
Its a beauty mark...lol
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I saw this thread before you had any responses to it, but did not post because you had no grades or prices attached to the coins. Now that the thread has some traction and you added more information, I will post a few things that I have been thinking.
It is hard to give you sound advice if we don't know your goals for this set. You may have posted them in this thread, or somewhere else, but I don't recall reading them. How much are you willing to spend per coin? How much do you intend to invest in the set? Does the set include gold? What types are you attempting to include in this set? What is the date range for the set? Do you have an idea as to the eye appeal you want for the set? What kind of grades are you willing to include for the set? How often will you be able to add coins to the set if you purchase one of these coins at these price levels? All of these questions, and more, would be things that I would ask a client, face-to-face, if they were asking me to either help them build a type set or were asking me questions about how to go about building a type set for themselves.
I won't beat to death my opinions on the first group of coins, but will tell you that the newly posted Liberty nickel has, in my opinion, negative eye appeal. This is actually a pretty generic coin and not everyone likes streaky planchet toning, likely from improper alloy mix or annealing, but perhaps from something else. If you like streaky then that is fine, but I doubt you will like the prominent spot on Ms. Liberty's cheek for very long and I wonder if that is a lint strikethrough just in front of it and above it on the cheek. Given the coin isn't exactly being give away, and also that the coin is generic as all get-out, I would be patient on this type and buy a great coin instead of one that happens to currently be in someone's inventory.
In honor of the memory of Cpl. Michael E. Thompson
I agree. And there's something going on in the fields in front of the portrait, from about the nose to below the chin. Not sure what that is, but it might give me pause without viewing it in hand.
Price is reasonable though, if you like it.
On a side note ... good to see you're keeping your eyes open and looking.
“We are only their care-takers,” he posed, “if we take good care of them, then centuries from now they may still be here … ”
Todd - BHNC #242
I’d like to add to the two comments above - if you’re going for a Proof Liberty Nickel, spend just a few dollars more to get one that’s a nice cameo. Having a CAM suffix does not add much to the cost.
Steve
My collecting “Pride & Joy” is my PCGS Registry Dansco 7070 Set:
https://www.pcgs.com/setregistry/type-sets/design-type-sets/complete-dansco-7070-modified-type-set-1796-date/publishedset/213996
Having completed a U.S. type set from 1792 (I have a 1792 half disme) to some time in the 1980s (The mint is issuing so much stuff now, I've ceased to be interested in all of it.), here is what I think.
The 1912 Nickel is okay, but I'm not a big toner guy. If you are paying a big premium for that one, I might think twice. The coin in my set is a 1909, NGC PR-66 Cameo. The 1909 is the most common Proof Liberty Nickel because of the three types of cents that were issued that year. If collectors wanted them all, they had to go back and buy the minor coin set, which contained the cent and the nickel. That results in lots of 1909 Proof Nickels.
I would pass on the 1880 Proof cent. There are other prettier examples out there. The one I have is not great shakes, but it fills the hole. This is an NGC PR-65, Brown.
The With Rays Shield Nickel in Proof is a big deal. It's scarce, and I don't have one. Still that piece with the spotty Proof mirrors would not attract me. I have an MS-64 I bought raw years ago and had it graded.
The 1915 Buffalo Nickel is a great coin. If you have the money, I'd go it. It's much better than the 1913 Type II Buffalo Nickel I have.
The 1878 quarter is so-so. I prefer pieces with even blue toning. The one in my collection is an PR-64. It suits me.
I don't know how far back you are going, but if you are going back to the early years, that's where the money and tough hunting really meets the road. This was the first nice early coin I purchased, and it kind of set a standard for me. I could not do this all the time, but it got my collector juices going. I purchased this coin from the late Catherine Bullowa almost 50 years ago.
>
Before posting the coin, did you research what PCGS PR65 Liberty nickels have been selling for?
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
You only live once.........better buy them all.
"“Those who sacrifice liberty for security/safety deserve neither.“(Benjamin Franklin)
"I only golf on days that end in 'Y'" (DE59)
Yes, between $500 and $700
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If anyone has a few minutes, post up a v nickel in proof that is for sale somewhere that is eye appealing and the price of it. I need a reference, as what im posting doesnt seem to fit looks, cost, grade.
Something in the 500-1000 range.
Then i may have a better idea of what a good deal is.
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@Shane6596
Then your search method was flawed. See below for a couple of recent sales of 1895’s and other dates of comparative value have brought similar prices.
1895 5C PR65 PCGS. PCGS Population: (101/30). NGC Census: (111/36). CDN: $380 Whsle. Bid for NGC/PCGS PR65. Mintage 2,06...
Auction 132309 | Lot 21078 » Nickels » Liberty Nickels
1895 5C PR65 PCGS. PCGS Population: (101/30). NGC Census: (111/36). CDN: $380 Whsle. Bid for NGC/PCGS PR65. Mintage 2,062. ... (PCGS# 3893)
Bid Source: HA.com/Live
SERVICE
PCGS
GRADE
PR65
AUCTION ENDED
Feb 28, 2023
Auction Archives
Sold For: $456.00
1895 5C PR65 PCGS. PCGS Population: (101/30). NGC Census: (111/36). CDN: $380 Whsle. Bid for NGC/PCGS PR65. Mintage 2,06...
Auction 60307 | Lot 52083 » Nickels » Liberty Nickels
1895 5C PR65 PCGS. PCGS Population: (101/30). NGC Census: (111/36). CDN: $380 Whsle. Bid for NGC/PCGS PR65. Mintage 2,062. ... (PCGS# 3893)
Bid Source: HA.com/Live
SERVICE
PCGS
GRADE
PR65
AUCTION ENDED
Feb 20, 2023
Auction Archives
Sold For: $408.00
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
The spot on Liberty's cheek was the first thing I was drawn to... and then I can't "unsee" it. At that grade, i expect to be able to detect a flaw or two but it shouldn't be in the prime focal area of the coin.
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Im not familiar with the auction house stuff. I heard there is a buyers premium and tax?
Is that true? Does the sold price include that or is it added on when paying?
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