I Broke One of My Collection Rules - 1850-O Seated Half (UPDATE: Close up pics added)

Catbert

Edit: close up pics regarding arc are provided later in this thread as an update.

As we all have, I've paid my tuition dues as a coin collector and have learned the hard way that buying problem coins leads to eventual dissatisfaction. So, I've practiced discipline in avoiding "but for" coins. I've also not been shy about selling coins that don't have problems since my standards have changed/evolved. This was to upgrade coins in my collection or to raise funds for a different/more expensive coin.

Yet, I've recently purchased a seated half dollar knowing that the coin had a problem (see arc over the eagle) that detracts from the overall quality of the coin. Nonetheless, I really like the toning, strike, and luster on this coin. It's very attractive in hand and so it will remain in my collection since I collect seated halves. No need to send to CAC since I'm confident it won't sticker.

Do you have a coin that violates your collection standards? What is it, why does it goes against your standards, and why have you decided to keep it?

The video starts out a little blurry, but it will sharpen if you give it a few seconds:

https://player.vimeo.com/video/777489723

Edit to add: click on the lower right hand corner of the video to expand the viewing area.

ricko

For the last fifteen or more years, my collecting rule has been to 'only buy what I like'. That could be design, rarity or condition. If it has 'something special' that appeals to me, I add it. If not, I pass - I have not broken that rule. Cheers, RickO

pursuitofliberty

l like the look, and think it's an attractive example! Damn tough to find nice in my experience as well. WTG!!

A few issues, yeah, maybe. But let's face it, most coins pre-1892 are some level of issues, especially if we aren't chasing superb Gems (and even then). It's all what we are will to compromise for.

"Too" white? Deep original crust? Secondary toning? Chatter? Drift marks?

I could go on and on. Not everything is for everybody.

A few of my no-no's are obvious cleaning, whizzing, most damage, visible hair-lining, splotchy toning from improper rinse, PVC damage, corrosion, and most graffiti.

I don't have any to show this morning, but certainly I have compromised to an extent from my ideal look and grade.

BillJones

The purists would not like this 1842-C $5 gold because it's been dipped. I don't care. I like it. It has actually mellowed a bit since I bought it. The assigned grade is AU-58. This piece was struck at "the first Charlotte Mint."

Many people don't realize it, but there were two Charlotte Mint buildings. The first one burned, I think in 1843, and it was re-built on the same spot. The first one had two stories above the basement while the second one only had one story. That was an economy move to make the replacement less expensive.

Walkerguy21D

For walkers, must be in a straight grade NGC or PCGS holder, no exceptions.

Large cents, must not be holed, bent, or excessively corroded or damaged. Anything else is okay 😉

MidLifeCrisis

Nice coin...I like it!

I don't have "rules"...but I do have "guidelines" that I try to follow, but still not too rigidly.

asheland

Nice!

NeophyteNumismatist

I like the coin. Ask far as "problems" go, this is a pretty minor one.

yspsales

A few years ago, I started back from scratch and attempted to become an actual numismatist.

I have been consistently in going from raw to "make them" mode.

When I stray outside of this lane, I generally am disappointed.

Regrets? Mostly the cool coins I paid up for and lost interest and sold.

I did keep this one in the fold.

Depending on how you count the pop... roughly just six non precious metal in existence, or slightly more than a dozen in total.

logger7

The problem does not look that detracting to me. But it may have caused it to go a little cheaper.

skier07

It’s your collection and money. Buy what you like and don’t buy what others might like. If you’re happy with your purchase that’s all that matters. The only negative might be when you sell the coin and that mostly depends on your purchase price.

jesbroken

After 60 years + of collecting, I have found that their are coins I love that I would not have been able to own without accepting the occasional problem coin. Therefore, my rule became buy what you like and if a small problem exists, live with it. As long as I can enjoy looking at a coin, it becomes acceptable to me. Then, that's my opinion.
Jim

scubafuel

It looks like a nice enough coin and is tough to find.
That said, when I break a rule like this I start out out defiant (this time it makes sense, darn it!) and 6 months later I’m selling it. Please report back

oldabeintx

When I expanded my type collecting some years ago to include colonial coins as well as foreign that circulated in the US I relaxed my "no details" rule. I've bought colonials with light corrosion (fine line here with TPG's) and a number of foreign damaged from use. US Federal coin types I've made no exceptions. To date no details-cleaned, doctored, tooled, altered, holed, mounted, etc. With me it's all about intent. More to the OP point, if I see a "problem" with a non-details coin, it's only a problem if I think it's a problem.

rec78

I have broken my "Don't Overpay Rule" many, many times.

Project Numismatics

I have several problem coins that I purchased 10-20 years ago (and one recent mistake). I am having good traction selling these on EBay. They are all slabbed and I make sure to describe the problem and offer a return period. I’ve been pleasantly surprised how easy they’ve been to sell. My recommendation is that if you have an issue with a coin that is bothering you, sell it and move on. Redeploy the capital into material that you enjoy.

Dave99B

Beautiful half dollar! You’re being way to hard on it. The arc isn’t distracting at all, IMO. Lovely coin.

Dave

lkenefic

Another beautiful piece! I don't think the spots over the eagle (arc) are distracting at all either.

I agree... pre-1892 coins generally have some degree of "issues". I can be fairly strict about the problems, but I also like to actually buy coins on occasion. I collect Type (Dansco 7070) and I'm a bit more strict when it comes to issues for a Type Piece. That said, the Classic Head Large Cent in my collection is a VF-details coin for corrosion (my cardinal rule for Early Copper... DON"T BUY CORRODED COINS!). These are difficult pieces to find nice... they do exist, but likely for multiples of what greysheet or listed coin price guides will tell you. I also collect Early Copper... mainly Middle and Late Dates, but I also have a fairly good representation of earlier issues as well. For copper, it's all about surfaces (no corrosion) and color. I also don't buy pieces that are holed, damaged, bent, scratched, etc... I will accept contact marks as normal use, but if they get too excessive for the grade or if there's an obvious rim dent, I'll pass.... that is, unless it's a rare coin and the price is substantially marked down. For instance, I have a 1794 Liberty Cap in a straight-graded VF20 holder in my Box-of-20 that I paid fairly strongly for, but I also have a 1796 Liberty Cap that is uniformly corroded and was struck on a clipped planchet... it has strong G4/6 details (and a strong date) but it does have these issues... and I got it for less than half of what a straight-graded G4 would bring.

JBN

Very nice obverse. Reverse issues IMHO are near trivial.
The key is you like it.
While 'violate my collection standards' is a little tough, this tough date half dollar has issues and I believe has been doctored.

Difficult to see is a substantial ding in the head of the middle arrow. The very well placed crust covers the ding beautifully - thus my physician suspicion. Pop 4,12 better. A welcome member of the collection.

coinbuf

I think you have a very nice example, yes that rev mark is unfortunate, but overall the coin is very pleasing. Congrats!!

johnny9434

I kinda like it

coinkat

Rules and standards are wonderful as long as they are based in reality.

While most seek out the ideal coin, an ideal coin as well as a problem coin exist at different levels. Defining the problem creates compromise in terms of what one is willing to live with and be satisfied. And perhaps ideal may include a quality for the grade example at a lower grade than one would prefer. So the question is does the satisfaction of ownership outweigh non ownership with the potential of not ever owning that special coin?

My rules and standards bend based on pragmatism for certain coins/medals.

Barberian

@Catbert said:

Do you have a coin that violates your collection standards? What is it, why does it goes against your standards, and why have you decided to keep it?

Yes. Oddly enough, my Pan Pac that was graded MS63 violates my collection standards for my circulated commemorative collection. The same may be true for my Gettysburg and Vancouver. I want classic commemoratives with grades equal or lower than AU58.

However, I'm not angry when I purchase MS coins at circulated coin prices by accident.

Walkerfan

If that's a toning pattern, then I see no problem.

If surface damage, well then, yes.

Lovely coin.

WilliamF

I think an exception can be made for that one, although I'm not quite as picky about my coins as you are

Catbert

@Walkerfan said:
If that's a toning pattern, then I see no problem.

If surface damage, well then, yes.

Lovely coin.

I think it's a toning pattern but something occurred to create that arc to alter the coin's patina that makes me think it is a flaw.

Walkerfan

@Catbert said:

@Walkerfan said:
If that's a toning pattern, then I see no problem.

If surface damage, well then, yes.

Lovely coin.

I think it's a toning pattern but something occurred to create that arc to alter the coin's patina that makes me think it is a flaw.

In that case, it wouldn't bother me. I think such things happen often. JMHO.

lermish

@Catbert said:

@Walkerfan said:
If that's a toning pattern, then I see no problem.

If surface damage, well then, yes.

Lovely coin.

I think it's a toning pattern but something occurred to create that arc to alter the coin's patina that makes me think it is a flaw.

As long as the surface is undisturbed, weird toning patterns are okay with CAC...or at least they aren't an automatic disqualifier. My barber dime has a weird streak across the center, but it's a natural tone mark (rubber band? Edge of an envelope for a decade?) and it is CAC.

robec

I don’t see that coin as anything but eye appealing. I love it!!

Catbert

UPDATE: Bob just completed photos for me and he got closeups of the arc. Other than lots of die polish lines, there is a toning break of some sort and we can only speculate how it occurred. I am very happy with the coin and intend to keep it but wanted to update the thread with Bob's excellent photos:

cheezhed

I've found that if I have a coin with a problem, that problem seems to be the only thing I see over time.

ReadyFireAim

@Catbert said:
Do you have a coin that violates your collection standards? What is it, why does it goes against your standards, and why have you decided to keep it?

@cheezhed said:
I've found that if I have a coin with a problem, that problem seems to be the only thing I see over time.

Agree...I have a saint with cuts on the knee.
It's a MS66+ & one of only 2 CAC coins that I own.
It was early on when I got it and I allowed the bean to influence my buying decision.
Never again...But I have gotten used to looking at it and am in no hurry to replace it.
The luster is crazy but I'm not happy about damage in a focal point.

Catbert

@cheezhed said:
I've found that if I have a coin with a problem, that problem seems to be the only thing I see over time.

I agree, and that is why I have my "rule". Yet, I find this coin to be an exception (for me).

Never know, could change my mind down the road, but I don't foresee it at this time.