Whether or not to have specific coins professionally graded
snk
Posts: 11 ✭
I have a coin collection that I have had 60 plus years - since my childhood. There are a few generally low denomination coins which appear to be in pristine uncirculated condition. For one example, I have what seems to be a flawless 1863 Indian penny. I realize condition is a major if not the primary consideration with regard to collection worthiness and value of the coin. I also know it is unwise to spend "more that it is worth" to have a coin professionally graded but, at the same time, I really do not know whether or not the coin is as exceptional as I think it is, or otherwise has significant value. My question is - should I spend money to have this and other similar coins professionally graded knowing the chances are likely the values of each coin will be nominal.
Comments
Post photos of the coins you have questions on for the best responses.
I've sent low value coins in from time to time just to see if my grade lines up with what PCGS says... it just depends on the circumstance. If it's a coin I intend to sell down the road and the value exceeds a couple/three hundred bucks, I will typically have it certified.
Click on this link to see my ebay listings.
@snk ... Welcome aboard. As mentioned above, we will need pictures to properly advise you as to condition and value. It will take a couple of days before you can post pictures (forum protocol), but then you will receive some expert input to help in your decisions. Cheers, RickO
We'll be waiting!
You are an approved member and should be able to post photos.
do you consider a flawless 1863 ihc a low value coin?
I would consider grading any coin I valued at over $200. A small batch at first to test my grading skills.
Another option is look at the list of authorized dealers and find one near you, give them a call and have them look at some to give you their opinion.
I slabbed a few of my childhood coins that are not of much value except to me. I didn't care about the cost as the personal value was high to me and I wanted them better preserved than sitting in a 2x2. One coin is the first I ever purchased at a coin shop when I was about 8 years old. I found a shop in the phone book and my mother drove me there. I didn't have enough saved up so my mom gave me a couple of dollars. An 1843 cent with environmental damage (which I didn't know at the time, but it didn't matter and I was only 8, LOL) but it was the oldest coin I was able to get. When you're just a kid, old somehow equals rare.
Great transactions with oih82w8, JasonGaming, Moose1913.
My advice here is to seek the advice of a dealer you know and trust if not sure whether to submit or not.Even if you have to pay the dealer for this service it might be a good idea to get a professional opinion from a dealer.
Great spirits have always encountered violent opposition from mediocre minds.-Albert Einstein
Welcome to the Forum! You can post pictures here or go to a reputable dealer and get a good idea of what they're worth. If you don't already have one, a Redbook can also come in handy. For me, I'll get coins professionally graded if they're issues that are heavily counterfeited or where authenticity adds value... such as: key dates, classic gold, rare type coins, etc... I have no set price cut-off, but if an issue is worth more than around $400-$500, I'll likely keep it in a slab, or get it re-slabbed before selling it.
Successful BST transactions with: SilverEagles92; Ahrensdad; Smitty; GregHansen; Lablade; Mercury10c; copperflopper; whatsup; KISHU1; scrapman1077, crispy, canadanz, smallchange, robkool, Mission16, ranshdow, ibzman350, Fallguy, Collectorcoins, SurfinxHI, jwitten, Walkerguy21D, dsessom.
What state is your residence?
bob
There are regularly a lot of comments about what you should and should not have graded on here. I have several coins that I have graded because I like the appearance of the coin, and several of these would have many members on here suggesting I should have never had them graded, some of them I spent as much for grading as the coin was worth. Why does there need to be a threshold? Grading companies are businesses, you are a potential customer. If they will grade your coin, and you want it graded why does anyone else opinion matter unless you are specifically trying to increase the value of a coin by achieving a specific grade? It's your money spend it how you want if you can afford it. Welcome to the forum!
Get grade opinions from a local dealer. Be clear that you're seeking advice regarding encapsulation.
Well, I shake my head at PCGS TRUE VIEWS - as compared to actual coins -
"When they can't find anything wrong with you, they create it!"
I appreciate the advice I have thus far received in this forum. I would love to post a photo of the one coin I have mentioned in my initial post as well as other photos at a later date. Regrettably, I struggle in my old age to figure how to post a photo to this forum. I have read some earlier advice and discussions with regard to posting photos to this forum and I have tried to use Photobucket for this purpose. They seem to require that I upgrade for a fee rather as opposed to using their free trial plan. If anyone has a really easy (for dummies) way of accomplishing this effort, please let me know.
Posting pictures from a computer
https://forums.collectors.com/discussion/comment/12765899#Comment_12765899
https://forums.collectors.com/discussion/1063756/posting-pics-from-a-phone
As others have mentioned there are a number of reason for getting coins grade by a major grading service:
Verify the grade.
Preserve the coin
Confirm authenticity
These may or may not be tied to the dollar value of the coin. A common date Morgan Dollar in MS condition that has a personal story behind it may not justify the cost of grading based on dollar value but might justify slabbing to preserve it for the next generation.
Enjoy!
Here is one that is graded MS-64.
"Flawless" is a nearly impossible goal for coins of this era, even if you have "unlimited funds."
The coin I have is very much comparable or better in condition (in my humble biased opinion) to the 1863 Indian Penny in Billjones' earlier post. I admit my use of the flawless distinction is likely too grandiose. Incidentally, for whatever reason, the photo drag and drop procedure just doesn't seem to work for me. I have repeatedly tried to drag and drop the photos from my desktop into the dialogue box of this forum but it does not work. So, I assume I must use some type of go-between in order to get this done.
If drag-and-drop does not work, click on the "Attach image" button (shown with red arrow).
Then click on [Choose Files], navigate to where the photo is on your PC, click on the filename, and click on [Open].
After you do this, a line of code will appear that looks like:
[](https://us.v-cdn.net/6027503/uploads/editor/8g/r7ektvly88sk.png "")
After you click on [Post Comment] or [Save Comment], the photo should appear.
P.S. Please do not attempt to clean or polish the coin - it will destroy most of its value.
It certainly appears my 1863 is "grade worthy" so I should just go ahead and have it professionally graded. I have others which probably should be included but I would first like to have you kind folks to view and opine. My biggest hurdle at the moment is to figure out how to post photos. Regardless, I am grateful for your help.
you do not need photobucket, this website will host the picture.
attach your phone or camera to your computer (I am assuming you are using a computer and the internet to post here)
hit the right picture box above post entry screen
hit the box that says choose files
find the file on your computer (or attached camera/phone)
hit open, watch a blue line move across above the input box until the uploaded file address shows in the input box
post your comment
OK, I finally think this working. Please take a look at the front/back of this particular coin and let me know what you think. Thanks, again.
Unfortunately, your coin doesn’t look nearly as good, condition-wise, as the one posted by Bill Jones. Yours appears to be Almost Uncirculated, with light wear, some scratches on each side and a possible/probable corrosion spot on the reverse on the E in CENT.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
That 1863 cent don't look real.
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
I was thinking the image just wasn’t very clear - now I’ll have to go back and look more carefully.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
Looks like the rim is damaged between the 1 in the date and the U in United too.
Mr_Spud
I'm not a copper specialist but it looks off to me. It may be from the out of focus pics.
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
I could re-photo the front since it seems a bit blurry - if that will help. The coin comes from a 60 year old collection I had as a youth and was located in a small coin envelope marked "brilliant - uncirculated". There is no indication it has been touched or handled during that time period.
Maybe this is a better photo of the front ----
Is this coin considered off-center?
USAF veteran 1984-2005
obverse die misaligned
Is that a spot of corrosion at the back of the E in CENT? If it is, will PCGS still straight grade it?
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
As an IHC, I’m guessing it wouldn’t straight grade
I’m looking at the headdress feather details and wondering if it is a good counterfeit, but I really don’t know.
Focusing especially on the obverse field, looks cleaned to me.
Smitten with DBLCs.
First set of pics, I thought it may have been laquered, in addition to the other issues pointed out.
New pics, I don't think so.
May or may not straight grade, but not MS. Best case AU58, worst case AU-Details.
Either way it's likely worth < $100.
It's up to the OP if he wants to sink the cost into getting it certified.
Besides the $22 cost, also factor in the shipping and handling, which ain't cheap, but I'm very pragmatic.
It may well be worth it to you, to get it in a PCGS holder.
The first set of images looked odd to me as well. The close-up of the reverse gives me pause... I think the spot on "E" in CENT may be enough to put it into an AU55-details holder...
Successful BST transactions with: SilverEagles92; Ahrensdad; Smitty; GregHansen; Lablade; Mercury10c; copperflopper; whatsup; KISHU1; scrapman1077, crispy, canadanz, smallchange, robkool, Mission16, ranshdow, ibzman350, Fallguy, Collectorcoins, SurfinxHI, jwitten, Walkerguy21D, dsessom.
I see marks and hairlines, but no appreciable difference in color or other indications of cleaning.
That said, I think that the area of corrosion on the E in CENT, which I mentioned previously, should result in a details grade.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
The issue of the authenticity of the coin has been mentioned. Is the only means of resolving whether or not it is counterfeit involve having it personally examined by professional grader? I assume the other alternative is to have it examined by a local reputable coin dealer - is that correct? Although I am somewhat disappointed the coin's condition is less than I earlier thought, I appreciate the comments from each of the contributors to this forum. I have learned to avoid words used in my prior vocabulary such as flawless, pristine and exceptional when discussing the condition(s) of coins.
Don't be too disappointed. Even with issues, it's a fabulous coin and a tangible connection to the past. Rare coins are...... well, rare. Rare coins in exceptionally good condition are even more uncommon. Just keep enjoying it!
Genuine or not, the coin isn't likely to be worth more than $100, and the cost of shipping, submission, and grading fees will eat up most of that value. Unless you're planning on selling soon, or tidying things up for your eventual heirs, there isn't always a compelling reason to have coins graded anyhow.
In many cases, large high-resolution pics taken under good lighting can be posted here which will allow us to authenticate your coin.
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
Rick Snow or perhaps Charmy can tell you from photos if it’s authentic or not.
** The issue of the authenticity of the coin has been mentioned. Is the only means of resolving whether or not it is counterfeit involve having it personally examined by professional grader?**
I don't see this as a counterfeit issue. I agree with a few others who've mentioned AU and not BU; however, the reverse spot is likely to keep this one from a straight grade.
Great information folks. Again, thanks for your help. Now I will see what else I can find in this childhood collection that might be worth posting.