Minimum Coin Value Before It Should Be Slabbed

SilverEagle1974

So, what are your thoughts on the minimum value of a coin before being slabbed ??

Personally, I think it should be $ 100.00.

Please discuss.

Thanks,

Chris

CaptHenway

Obviously there are exceptions that would include coins of a lower value, but in my opinion I would say around $500.

Mr_Spud

I think $100 is a good amount to start being worth slabbing too. I’m not sure if $100 is worth it for someone selling soon though, more like I like to slab coins worth more than $100 for my long term collection.

AUandAG

$200 has always been my rule.
bob

koynekwest

$100 or more tho on a very few occasions I've slabbed cheaper ones.

Herb_T

If it’s a coin I like, I will go ahead and slab it. But generally >$200.

sedulous

I am sending one in this month CoinFacts valued at $120 using Economy... for reference. Depends on whether you need the slab to fill out a collection or use Registry for your collection and that is required to fill a whole. Pop Reports help too. If a lot is in the population, I forgo grading thinking that one in the current population will be freed up for purchase at a near-time point (ends up a cheaper option).

SkyMan

$200ish for me.

BryceM

Are we talking heavily counterfeited trade dollars or standard bullion AGEs with little to no numismatic value? Something you’re trying to flip or something you want to keep forever?

In general, you just need to figure out the upside, downside, and ROI that you’re comfortable with. It’s potentially different for every coin.

sedulous

@BryceM I agree. @SilverEagle1974 think of it at the collection level. The right coin is king. You may be under $ in some but overpay on others. Opportunity sometimes dictates outcomes.

PerryHall

@BryceM said:
Are we talking heavily counterfeited trade dollars or standard bullion AGEs with little to no numismatic value? Something you’re trying to flip or something you want to keep forever?

In general, you just need to figure out the upside, downside, and ROI that you’re comfortable with. It’s potentially different for every coin.

Agree. I wouldn't pay to get a common date double eagle in AU condition slabbed even though it's worth at least $1800. Show me the coin and I'll tell you if it's worth the cost of getting slabbed.

ricko

The decision will vary based on economics and personal choice. Some will want it slabbed for preservation, others for authentication, preservation or sale.... One can state a general value for slabbing, but each coin must be judged on the many contributing factors. Cheers, RickO

pcgscacgold

It's your collection, do what you want. A collector should slab what you want regardless of value. Why set a certain value limit? If you have 5 of 6 coins in a series slabbed I don't see how the perceived value of the 6th coin would prevent a person from getting it slabbed and having all 6 matching. To each his/her own. Enjoy the hobby.

MFeld

The minimum value of the coin shouldn’t be the determining factor. What’s far more relevant, is the cost of grading (including postage, if applicable) compared to the coin’s difference in value slabbed vs. non-slabbed.

For example, if the cost of grading is $35 and coin A is worth $50 ungraded and $100 graded, while coin B is worth $200 ungraded and $225 graded...it makes more sense to have coin A graded. At the same time, many very low value coins, as well as much higher value ones are graded, when most would agree they didn’t need to be.

All of the above is separate from other, non-monetary reasons, such as liquidity, recognition and preservation of a family keepsake, etc.

291fifth

Calculate the full cost of having the coin slabbed by a major TPG.
Consider the cost of a "sticker" if the market demands it for such a coin.
Consider the value of the coin raw vs. slabbed and, perhaps, stickered.
Is it worth the cost?

I used to think $200 was a cut off point but now lean toward a higher amount since the advent of sticker necessity to realize full value.

None of this counts if you just want the coin in a slab for sentimental reasons.

If all you need is authentication then the use of a respected but second tier TPG may be the way to go. They usually cost much less.

ms70

I don't think value should play a role. Preserving historic pieces (even if damaged) or pieces with important personal value is important in some way. Besides, slabbing those pieces help support our host.

Smudge

I have a $200 added value rule.

MFeld

@Smudge said:
I have a $200 added value rule.

Why? If, for example, I could spend $50 to add $100 in value, I’d be happy to do it as often as possible. Ditto for adding $75 (or even less) in value.

jessewvu

About tree-fiddy

jmlanzaf

@MFeld said:

@Smudge said:
I have a $200 added value rule.

Why? If, for example, I could spend $50 to add $100 in value, I’d be happy to do it as often as possible. Ditto for adding $75 (or even less) in value.

As a simple statement, I agree. But I usually find it more complex because there's also a time component.

If I could sell it raw today for $100 or sell it slabbed tomorrow for $150, then it's worth $40 to slab it. But if I could sell it raw today for $100 or slabbed in 4 months for $150, it's probably not worth the $40 to slab it. There's my time, the time value of money, and the inherent risk in holding for 4 months.

joeykoins

Good thread.
Besides sentimental reasons or just want to have in your collection, (without any desire to sell), my price trigger to submit is usually near the $100 range. Now, that's just for a simple coin I want graded. If it's an error coin ($65 fee) or variety attribution ($18 additional) the coin should be worth at least $150.
Of course, there are a few times your coin may not hit the grade you are hoping to reach. Even worse, your coin may receive the dreaded "ungradeable brand".
So $150, is my final answer.

MasonG

$267.63

Jim703

If you are slabbing for resale, keep in mind that the coin might come back a grade or two lower than expected causing a major hit on the popular value. I've had some beautiful coins valued much less slabbed, but I'm liking the $200 threshold as a starting point.

Smudge

@MFeld said:

@Smudge said:
I have a $200 added value rule.

Why? If, for example, I could spend $50 to add $100 in value, I’d be happy to do it as often as possible. Ditto for adding $75 (or even less) in value.

I understand your point from the perspective of a dealer, but I am just a collector, and seldom submit coins for grading at all.

rooksmith

I've never understood why so many common date coins get slabbed. But some common date IKES needed to be graded to see if they are "the one" that sells for hundreds over face value. Errors and varieties are worth slabbing but the attribution fees will kill you.

I call you $200 and raise you $50 - $200 coins must be key dates , gold or silver!

WAYNEAS

I would have to see the coin in hand before making a decision to slab it.
As I don't sell, slabbing of the coin would only be for my personal collection.
The slabbing cost would not enter into the equation.
Wayne

OldIndianNutKase

To complete a registry set of modern coins will require a number of coins with less than $100 valuation be slabbed. In this case it is best to buy coins that are already slabbed.

gradeacoinsebay

Can be very low on common toned coins where the unslabbed is worth like $15 and slabbed $60. Generally I'd say $150 at least

DollarAfterDollar

It depends a bit on the cost to get the coin and the grade anticipated. With those 2 factors known (assumed) I think the question becomes "can I double my money if I sell it"? Including consignor fees (if applicable).
I've slabbed hundreds of coins, Some as low as $50 when sold however, not many that low.

DollarAfterDollar

A couple added thoughts. 1) get some coins graded. What makes you a good grader is to know going in what to expect when the coins return. Without this valuable info you might well be paying far too much "thinking" you have a clue.
2) Sell a few things. Knowing what you paid is one element of the process. Knowing if you over paid out the wazoo keeps you in check of YOU.

privatecoin

Depends on what I paid for the coin.

3stars

Gold is good to get slabbed for resale just because it eliminates the question of authenticity. Same for coins that have big spreads in price between two close together grades, it takes the fear the seller will have that it could have been the higher grade.

vulcanize

I have sent in coins found during my travels up and down the eastern seaboard in Spring of this year for the 2021 Coin Quest which was not so smart because they were all fairly well circulated in a short time.
Also got two of the young Queen Victoria Indian rupee coins for about 35$ each, they were cleaned but I was very intrigued about the Mint and other variety factors so sent them in for grading.
Unfortunately they could not confirm whether it was from the Bombay or Calcutta mint but one of them was Small Diamonds with a higher pop. of 103 and the other one was Large Diamonds with a higher pop. of 46.

privatecoin

As a low budget collector I got this slabbed. I found it attractive and tested myself on the grade and FS test. Is it a millionaire coin. No. But is it good enough for me or another low budget collector, yes.

Cougar1978

None but ones selling price could be at least the new inventory cost (slab cost plus the cost of the coin before slabbing) x a markup factor. However I don’t typically slab material under $50-$100.

For instance awhile back a guy sold me a 1859 or 1860 Canadian Cent slabbed Ngc 58 for $30 (slab cost) at my table at a show. CV on it was a lame $25. Canada was an ally of the CSA and had a very large number of troops on the eastern border with USA. A nice coin relatively low pop with historical significance. I sold it for $60 a couple of months later. Many times people slab coins possibly worth less than slab cost to see what they will grade, the coin comes back below the desired grade (AU vs MS), or to have a complete slab set for that series.

In calculating slab cost I add the slab invoice cost plus my cost for outgoing shipping of the order to the TPG. If decision is to expense - Opex / Fees.

In summary its a play call up to the individual.

DRUNNER

Great question, but as you can see above . . . . may different takes on the issue with no "correct" answer.

I am waiting (2 months today) on a group of 11 simple Type coins in mid-grade. I am setting up a nice inventory of 'keys' and just wanted some nice PCGS Type material to space in the run of key dates stuff. So . . . surely, I won't make money on an 1864 2c in AU that I paid 5% back of bid and then slabbed . . .but there are a bunch of guys cruising the bourse that will gobble them up since no one else will send them in!!!! Then . . . when they do . . . . . they just might reconsider an S-VDB in circ grade right next to it . . . .

Also . . . I get to check my grading. I compare what I think with what PCGS thinks . . .

Drunner

jmlanzaf

@3stars said:
Gold is good to get slabbed for resale just because it eliminates the question of authenticity. Same for coins that have big spreads in price between two close together grades, it takes the fear the seller will have that it could have been the higher grade.

I would never slab bullion gold. The cost of slabbing is higher than the bid/ask spread. Find a trusted dealer and just wholesale it.

3stars

@jmlanzaf said:

@3stars said:
Gold is good to get slabbed for resale just because it eliminates the question of authenticity. Same for coins that have big spreads in price between two close together grades, it takes the fear the seller will have that it could have been the higher grade.

I would never slab bullion gold. The cost of slabbing is higher than the bid/ask spread. Find a trusted dealer and just wholesale it.

Bullion, yes, pre 1933 not so much

Fairlaneman

I have No minimum value but like to keep the total cost after slabbing at or below PCGS price guide price just in case I decide to sell the coin. Toned coins are a whole different story when I submit them.

Ken

jmlanzaf

@3stars said:

@jmlanzaf said:

@3stars said:
Gold is good to get slabbed for resale just because it eliminates the question of authenticity. Same for coins that have big spreads in price between two close together grades, it takes the fear the seller will have that it could have been the higher grade.

I would never slab bullion gold. The cost of slabbing is higher than the bid/ask spread. Find a trusted dealer and just wholesale it.

Bullion, yes, pre 1933 not so much

Pre 1933 in circ is bullion. That's what I was referring to.

koynekwest

I slab my stuff for the authenticity guarantee and also to make things more liquid and perhaps to avoid getting cheated for my heirs to sell once I'm gone. Both my sons are somewhat familiar with coins, one even still collects to a small degree.

jayPem

Opposite prob for me, I need to get my coins out of slabs pronto and occasionally I wonder how much value is too much to crack out?
$10K my general base line for that, but there are exceptions..🤓

winesteven

@OldIndianNutKase said:
To complete a registry set of modern coins will require a number of coins with less than $100 valuation be slabbed. In this case it is best to buy coins that are already slabbed.

I’m sure glad there are dealers or collectors who choose to slab coins with very low values, including those that come back graded PR70 DCAM! For the past seven years, I’ve been tied at #1 All-Time with my PCGS 21st Century Type Set, Proof Registry Set. There are 32 coins required for the set, and all of mine are PR70DCAM. Based on the PCGS Price Guide, 24 of the 32 coins are valued at less than $100 each, and most of those 24 cost me only $20 - $30 each. “Thank you” to those that got those graded!

Steve

Jzyskowski1

I have bought so many coins that I say the same thing. Thanks for slabbing it. I understand I’m cherry-picking slabs but it’s fine by me. I have killed on auctions. So happy they are there

Zoins

I was at a B&M the other day and they had a box of PCGS slabs for less than $20 each

winesteven

@Zoins said:
I was at a B&M the other day and they had a box of PCGS slabs for less than $20 each

OK, but that's not cheap if there are no coins inside them, lol.

joeykoins

@Zoins said:
I was at a B&M the other day and they had a box of PCGS slabs for less than $20 each

I love those discount slabs! Many series, many different denominations, especially.
Boy, I miss going to the coin shows, even though I just attended one not too long ago. Lol

jmlanzaf

@winesteven said:

@OldIndianNutKase said:
To complete a registry set of modern coins will require a number of coins with less than $100 valuation be slabbed. In this case it is best to buy coins that are already slabbed.

I’m sure glad there are dealers or collectors who choose to slab coins with very low values, including those that come back graded PR70 DCAM! For the past seven years, I’ve been tied at #1 All-Time with my PCGS 21st Century Type Set, Proof Registry Set. There are 32 coins required for the set, and all of mine are PR70DCAM. Based on the PCGS Price Guide, 24 of the 32 coins are valued at less than $100 each, and most of those 24 cost me only $20 - $30 each. “Thank you” to those that got those graded!

Steve

Keep in mind that bulk submitters can often submit moderns for under $10 per coin.

winesteven

@jmlanzaf said:

Keep in mind that bulk submitters can often submit moderns for under $10 per coin.

Sure, but as a collector that needs specific coins for my Type Sets, buying these PR70DCAM already slabbed is the only way for me to proceed. The point is it does not pay for ME to submit coins, and "Hope" it gets that top grade! If the bulk submitter makes a few bucks on selling me a PR70DCAM for $20 - $30 for my set, so be it. This is a "win-win"!

Steve

jmlanzaf

@winesteven said:

@jmlanzaf said:

Keep in mind that bulk submitters can often submit moderns for under $10 per coin.

Sure, but as a collector that needs specific coins for my Type Sets, buying these PR70DCAM already slabbed is the only way for me to proceed. The point is it does not pay for ME to submit coins, and "Hope" it gets that top grade! If the bulk submitter makes a few bucks on selling me a PR70DCAM for $20 - $30 for my set, so be it. This is a "win-win"!

Steve

I agree with you. I'm just pointing out that it isn't a "loser" for the people that submit them.

winesteven

@jmlanzaf said:

I agree with you. I'm just pointing out that it isn't a "loser" for the people that submit them.

Yes, and we're both addressing the main point of the OP as to what value of coins "should" be slabbed, and we both make the case that even for cheap coins, it could still make good sense in the circumstances we've described.