are those all from the same submission like are you able to request multiple shots of the same coin and they have on file? I think I remember reading that somewhere.
are those all from the same submission like are you able to request multiple shots of the same coin and they have on file? I think I remember reading that somewhere.
No, I have submitted the coin several times for regarding and with each time it goes in, a true view was taken. I saved the different ones over the years.
Do you want to use the picture which most closely resembles the coin or the best looking one? If the former, you or whoever has the coin is in by far, the best position to answer.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
@MFeld said:
Do you want to use the picture which most closely resembles the coin or the best looking one? If the former, you or whoever has the coin is in by far, the best position to answer.
I own the coin Mark, and I am looking for the best looking picture.
@MFeld said:
Do you want to use the picture which most closely resembles the coin or the best looking one? If the former, you or whoever has the coin is in by far, the best position to answer.
I own the coin Mark, and I am looking for the best looking picture.
I see that #2 is extremely popular. But I feel that the lighting makes it look as if part of the obverse portrait might have been cleaned. I prefer #1 and then #3 over #2.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
The middle has the richest color and all else equal, I think will be the most impressive printed. Only you can say if one of the other photos is a more accurate representation of the coin, in which case the richer colors may not be a benefit for accuracy (if that matters). If you just want a print of a nice coin, go with #2. That said, the obverse looks like it needs a slight rotation from its orientation in #2, and that's driving me mad.
@ErrorsOnCoins said:
For a poster, you will need a very large file size which I doubt you will get from PCGS.
For one special coin, hire a coin photographer (not me).
If you have the TrueView, use the "Max" in the file name at the end, rather than what is already there. The "Max" photo is gigantic, and extremely sharp. With that, your poster would be something to admire.
Kind of an unrelated question ... in terms of orienting the obverse, should the date be centered at the exact bottom? Or skewed off to the right like it is.
The second one has the most contrast and best design detail and would be the most eye-catching as a poster. The color balance on the first is more appealing, though, having less of a green cast to it.
When pointing out all of the interesting attributes of this coin, I like #2 for its contrast on a light background. I had @blu62vettee do a picture file for a very large print for my A&R half that looks great showing all the Longacre doubling and color.
@WingedLiberty1957 said:
Kind of an unrelated question ... in terms of orienting the obverse, should the date be centered at the exact bottom? Or skewed off to the right like it is.
Great question.
Many of us who focus on this series do not use a centered-date for orientation. To do so would position Liberty and her gaze in many crazy directions. Remember, only the central devices were hubbed. Everything else was punched into dies by hand.
Instead, the generally preferred orientation is about the bust, with Liberty gazing at about the 10 o'clock position. Such consistency makes for more pleasant viewing when scrolling through images or seeing a collection of photos.
Lance.
@drddm
Whatever you do, please share the results with us. I have thought of making some smaller wall hangings (not poster size) of a couple of special pieces. Think 11x14 size.
“In matters of style, swim with the current; in matters of principle, stand like a rock." - Thomas Jefferson
@ErrorsOnCoins said:
For a poster, you will need a very large file size which I doubt you will get from PCGS.
For one special coin, hire a coin photographer (not me).
If you have the TrueView, use the "Max" in the file name at the end, rather than what is already there. The "Max" photo is gigantic, and extremely sharp. With that, your poster would be something to admire.
Agree. The max size is 18MP or 18 megapixels at 6000 x 3000. That should be large enough.
@ErrorsOnCoins said:
For a poster, you will need a very large file size which I doubt you will get from PCGS.
For one special coin, hire a coin photographer (not me).
If you have the TrueView, use the "Max" in the file name at the end, rather than what is already there. The "Max" photo is gigantic, and extremely sharp. With that, your poster would be something to admire.
Agree. The max size is 18MP or 18 megapixels at 6000 x 3000. That should be large enough.
Depends on the size.
A poster is usually considered fairly large as opposed to a print.
A very small poster (IMO) measuring 16 x20 inches at 300 ppi is over 80MP.
My Canon camera kicks out a file of 144MP per each side of the coin so that would be a great camera for a poster.
@ErrorsOnCoins said:
For a poster, you will need a very large file size which I doubt you will get from PCGS.
For one special coin, hire a coin photographer (not me).
If you have the TrueView, use the "Max" in the file name at the end, rather than what is already there. The "Max" photo is gigantic, and extremely sharp. With that, your poster would be something to admire.
Agree. The max size is 18MP or 18 megapixels at 6000 x 3000. That should be large enough.
Depends on the size.
A poster is usually considered fairly large as opposed to a print.
A very small poster (IMO) measuring 16 x20 inches at 300 ppi is over 80MP.
My Canon camera kicks out a file of 144MP per each side of the coin so that would be a great camera for a poster.
That is why I first mentioned hiring a pro.
Good point. Might be good to check with Phil @PCGSPhoto to see if they have larger sizes not available on the website.
@WingedLiberty1957 said:
Kind of an unrelated question ... in terms of orienting the obverse, should the date be centered at the exact bottom? Or skewed off to the right like it is.
Great question.
Many of us who focus on this series do not use a centered-date for orientation. To do so would position Liberty and her gaze in many crazy directions. Remember, only the central devices were hubbed. Everything else was punched into dies by hand.
Instead, the generally preferred orientation is about the bust, with Liberty gazing at about the 10 o'clock position. Such consistency makes for more pleasant viewing when scrolling through images or seeing a collection of photos.
Lance.
I think that's more or less what I do. I've settled on lining up the tip of the top serif in the B with the left edge of the earlobe. I have several shots where I lined up the bottom serif that way, but Liberty looks a little to reclined.
Comments
I'm thinking the one in the middle.
Louis Armstrong
2
For a poster, you will need a very large file size which I doubt you will get from PCGS.
For one special coin, hire a coin photographer (not me).
How large are we talking about?
Number 2
depends on the size of the poster.
300 ppi at full size is the resolution you will need for a great reproduction.
I like #2
Sugar magnolia blossoms blooming, heads all empty and I don't care ...
2
are those all from the same submission like are you able to request multiple shots of the same coin and they have on file? I think I remember reading that somewhere.
I would make it of the obverse of 1
No, I have submitted the coin several times for regarding and with each time it goes in, a true view was taken. I saved the different ones over the years.
The middle shows good details and shadowing without too much light.
2
The middle one pops
Do you want to use the picture which most closely resembles the coin or the best looking one? If the former, you or whoever has the coin is in by far, the best position to answer.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
Not knowing the coin, and thinking about my wall, the middle one is the way to go.
I own the coin Mark, and I am looking for the best looking picture.
2
I see that #2 is extremely popular. But I feel that the lighting makes it look as if part of the obverse portrait might have been cleaned. I prefer #1 and then #3 over #2.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
The middle has the richest color and all else equal, I think will be the most impressive printed. Only you can say if one of the other photos is a more accurate representation of the coin, in which case the richer colors may not be a benefit for accuracy (if that matters). If you just want a print of a nice coin, go with #2. That said, the obverse looks like it needs a slight rotation from its orientation in #2, and that's driving me mad.
I like the first reverse and the second obverse.
jmo
boston
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If you have the TrueView, use the "Max" in the file name at the end, rather than what is already there. The "Max" photo is gigantic, and extremely sharp. With that, your poster would be something to admire.
Kind of an unrelated question ... in terms of orienting the obverse, should the date be centered at the exact bottom? Or skewed off to the right like it is.
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For reproduction purposes, it is best to select the photo that preserves the highlight detail.
I like #2 if using a white background as shown.
I might switch to #3 if using a dark background.
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The second one has the most contrast and best design detail and would be the most eye-catching as a poster. The color balance on the first is more appealing, though, having less of a green cast to it.
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2.
I like number 3.
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2
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2, by a wide margin
1.
When I look at 2 it looks Obviously played with to me.
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Also... awesome reverse detail for an e/a. Congrats.
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Hmmm, I must be the odd girl out as I prefer the last image #3
.
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None for me. There is no Blast White option.
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When pointing out all of the interesting attributes of this coin, I like #2 for its contrast on a light background. I had @blu62vettee do a picture file for a very large print for my A&R half that looks great showing all the Longacre doubling and color.
Then why bother to respond?
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
I felt left out with only tarnished options or maybe I thought I'd get an LOL.
Sorry! Carry on.
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BTW, I think a gray background would be ideal so it would blend more on a wall. You could try out different shades of gray to identify the right tone.
Somewhat against the grain, I like 1 ... although 2 is a close 2nd.
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Todd - BHNC #242
The first one looks best to me. The other pics look a bit over the top.
Great question.
Many of us who focus on this series do not use a centered-date for orientation. To do so would position Liberty and her gaze in many crazy directions. Remember, only the central devices were hubbed. Everything else was punched into dies by hand.
Instead, the generally preferred orientation is about the bust, with Liberty gazing at about the 10 o'clock position. Such consistency makes for more pleasant viewing when scrolling through images or seeing a collection of photos.
Lance.
@drddm
Whatever you do, please share the results with us. I have thought of making some smaller wall hangings (not poster size) of a couple of special pieces. Think 11x14 size.
“In matters of style, swim with the current; in matters of principle, stand like a rock." - Thomas Jefferson
My digital cameo album 1950-64 Cameos - take a look!
Agree. The max size is 18MP or 18 megapixels at 6000 x 3000. That should be large enough.
I like photo 2 the best because the swirls in the field are accentuated the most. It makes the coin mesmerizing.
Depends on the size.
A poster is usually considered fairly large as opposed to a print.
A very small poster (IMO) measuring 16 x20 inches at 300 ppi is over 80MP.
My Canon camera kicks out a file of 144MP per each side of the coin so that would be a great camera for a poster.
That is why I first mentioned hiring a pro.
Good point. Might be good to check with Phil @PCGSPhoto to see if they have larger sizes not available on the website.
I think that's more or less what I do. I've settled on lining up the tip of the top serif in the B with the left edge of the earlobe. I have several shots where I lined up the bottom serif that way, but Liberty looks a little to reclined.
Keeper of the VAM Catalog • Professional Coin Imaging • Prime Number Set • World Coins in Early America • British Trade Dollars • Variety Attribution