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Artificial Toning or Original?

a 1926-s Peace dollar. Looking straight on you see hints of color and turned at different angles the colors come and go. Anybody seen toning like this? in hand a lot of luster and the colors gradually blend and are not seperated as seen in the photo.

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Comments

  • SonorandesertratSonorandesertrat Posts: 5,695 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Natural toning
    Member: EAC, NBS, C4, CWTS, ANA

    RMR: 'Wer, wenn ich schriee, hörte mich denn aus der Engel Ordnungen?'

    CJ: 'No one!' [Ain't no angels in the coin biz]
  • AUandAGAUandAG Posts: 24,929 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Artificial Toning.

    bob
    Registry: CC lowballs (boblindstrom), bobinvegas1989@yahoo.com
  • crazyhounddogcrazyhounddog Posts: 14,055 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I think it's really nice looking & very pretty. But David Hall says there is no such thing as a rainbow toned peace dollar! Just thought I'ld throw that in....
    The bitterness of "Poor Quality" is remembered long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.
  • fastfreddiefastfreddie Posts: 2,902 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Looks AT but pics need more light.
    It is not that life is short, but that you are dead for so very long.
  • coinkid855coinkid855 Posts: 5,012 ✭✭✭
    I don't think it's natural.



    -Paul
  • It looks blatantly AT to me. The color progressions are wrong among other things.
  • jomjom Posts: 3,484 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>It looks blatantly AT to me. The color progressions are wrong among other things. >>



    I agree with this. The toning seems like it's "floating" ie there isn't a difference between the fields and the devices as the toning floats over the hills and valleys.

    jom
  • truthtellertruthteller Posts: 1,240 ✭✭
    AT



    TRUTH

  • AT







  • lkeigwinlkeigwin Posts: 16,893 ✭✭✭✭✭
    AT. Sorry.
    Lance.
  • FlatwoodsFlatwoods Posts: 4,246 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I would vote AT based on those pics.
  • crypto79crypto79 Posts: 8,623
    at
  • ShamikaShamika Posts: 18,785 ✭✭✭✭
    Artificial
    Buyer and seller of vintage coin boards!
  • This content has been removed.
  • UtahCoinUtahCoin Posts: 5,366 ✭✭✭✭✭
    99.9% sure it's AT
    I used to be somebody, now I'm just a coin collector.
    Recipient of the coveted "You Suck" award, April 2009 for cherrypicking a 1833 CBHD LM-5, and April 2022 for a 1835 LM-12, and again in Aug 2012 for picking off a 1952 FS-902.
  • poorguypoorguy Posts: 4,317
    Absolutely AT.
    Brandon Kelley - ANA - 972.746.9193 - http://www.bestofyesterdaycollectibles.com
  • ElcontadorElcontador Posts: 7,680 ✭✭✭✭✭
    That purple hue on a silver coin = AT.
    "Vou invadir o Nordeste,
    "Seu cabra da peste,
    "Sou Mangueira......."
  • First we need to delineate what is considered AT. ie. give strict definitions to each type of toning and whether it is to be considered artificial or natural.

    Then when it comes to attributing a coins as AT or NT, along with the assignment should be the type of NT or AT.

    It is a disservice to describe a coin as AT without mentioning the method of AT involved. If one cannot specify the method of AT then perhaps they should not make it a habit of offering their opinion on AT or NT coins.
    Positive BST Transactions: Nags
  • rainbowroosierainbowroosie Posts: 4,875 ✭✭✭✭
    I would not buy that coin.
    "You keep your 1804 dollar and 1822 half eagle -- give me rainbow roosies in MS68."
    rainbowroosie April 1, 2003


  • << <i>I would not buy that coin. >>



    Not even for less than the metal value?
    Positive BST Transactions: Nags
  • tightbudgettightbudget Posts: 7,299 ✭✭✭
    AT
  • PokermandudePokermandude Posts: 2,713 ✭✭✭
    AT

    Many things "wrong" with it. Unnatural color progression, seems to "float" on the coin (rather than changing with the relief/devices), colors like that just dont show up on circulated pieces of this kind, etc
    http://stores.ebay.ca/Mattscoin - Canadian coins, World Coins, Silver, Gold, Coin lots, Modern Mint Products & Collections
  • poorguypoorguy Posts: 4,317


    << <i>First we need to delineate what is considered AT. ie. give strict definitions to each type of toning and whether it is to be considered artificial or natural.

    Then when it comes to attributing a coins as AT or NT, along with the assignment should be the type of NT or AT.

    It is a disservice to describe a coin as AT without mentioning the method of AT involved. If one cannot specify the method of AT then perhaps they should not make it a habit of offering their opinion on AT or NT coins. >>



    There are many ways to at a coin, some methods of which we dont have access to the knowledge of how someone ats a coin. However, we do know of how coins can naturally tone: bags, albums, envelopes, ect. And we know the results of those as the commonly accepted naturally toned look. What you can say about a coin that is artificially toned is that it does not share a commonly accepted look of a naturally toned coin. A good analogy is: When you buy a used car, if you notice damage or a problem with the way it drives. You dont know what caused it but know it is not driving like an in-tune car should be. Was it flooded out? Was it in a wreck before you bought it? You may never know. Nor is it relevant to you, the buyer. You simply have the plain fact that it is not a good car to buy.
    Brandon Kelley - ANA - 972.746.9193 - http://www.bestofyesterdaycollectibles.com
  • ColonialCoinUnionColonialCoinUnion Posts: 10,087 ✭✭✭


    << <i>It is a disservice to describe a coin as AT without mentioning the method of AT involved. If one cannot specify the method of AT then perhaps they should not make it a habit of offering their opinion on AT or NT coins. >>



    It does not matter what method was employed, it matters only what the coin looks like. And this one looks like a piece that has no chance to be considered market acceptable by the grading services.


  • << <i>

    << <i>First we need to delineate what is considered AT. ie. give strict definitions to each type of toning and whether it is to be considered artificial or natural.

    Then when it comes to attributing a coins as AT or NT, along with the assignment should be the type of NT or AT.

    It is a disservice to describe a coin as AT without mentioning the method of AT involved. If one cannot specify the method of AT then perhaps they should not make it a habit of offering their opinion on AT or NT coins. >>



    There are many ways to at a coin, some methods of which we dont have access to the knowledge of how someone ats a coin. However, we do know of how coins can naturally tone: bags, albums, envelopes, ect. And we know the results of those as the commonly accepted naturally toned look. What you can say about a coin that is artificially toned is that it does not share a commonly accepted look of a naturally toned coin. A good analogy is: When you buy a used car, if you notice damage or a problem with the way it drives. You dont know what caused it but know it is not driving like an in-tune car should be. Was it flooded out? Was it in a wreck before you bought it? You may never know. Nor is it relevant to you, the buyer. You simply have the plain fact that it is not a good car to buy. >>



    Perhaps, perhaps.

    I would like to take this one step further. As a numismatist, is it possible that you SHOULD be more concerned with the METHOD of toning instead of the APPEARANCE of the coin. As experts of our trade, is it not our duty to be more concerned with the specific methods in which a coin has been altered from it's original state, whether natural or artificial. Instead of concerning ourselves with just the "appearance" of the coin to the eye?
    Positive BST Transactions: Nags
  • poorguypoorguy Posts: 4,317


    << <i>

    << <i>

    << <i>First we need to delineate what is considered AT. ie. give strict definitions to each type of toning and whether it is to be considered artificial or natural.

    Then when it comes to attributing a coins as AT or NT, along with the assignment should be the type of NT or AT.

    It is a disservice to describe a coin as AT without mentioning the method of AT involved. If one cannot specify the method of AT then perhaps they should not make it a habit of offering their opinion on AT or NT coins. >>



    There are many ways to at a coin, some methods of which we dont have access to the knowledge of how someone ats a coin. However, we do know of how coins can naturally tone: bags, albums, envelopes, ect. And we know the results of those as the commonly accepted naturally toned look. What you can say about a coin that is artificially toned is that it does not share a commonly accepted look of a naturally toned coin. A good analogy is: When you buy a used car, if you notice damage or a problem with the way it drives. You dont know what caused it but know it is not driving like an in-tune car should be. Was it flooded out? Was it in a wreck before you bought it? You may never know. Nor is it relevant to you, the buyer. You simply have the plain fact that it is not a good car to buy. >>



    Perhaps, perhaps.

    I would like to take this one step further. As a numismatist, is it possible that you SHOULD be more concerned with the METHOD of toning instead of the APPEARANCE of the coin. As experts of our trade, is it not our duty to be more concerned with the specific methods in which a coin has been altered from it's original state, whether natural or artificial. Instead of concerning ourselves with just the "appearance" of the coin to the eye? >>



    Considering the methods to at are dynamic, i.e. Evolving, while the proper look for a naturally toned coin based on known toning sources is static, the more reliable and consistent method of determining at vs nt is by knowing what is real to determine what is fake. You dont spot a counterfeit coin without knowing what a real one should look like.
    Brandon Kelley - ANA - 972.746.9193 - http://www.bestofyesterdaycollectibles.com
  • bestclser1bestclser1 Posts: 5,566 ✭✭✭
    Looked overdone to me,AT fo sho.
    Great coins are not cheap,and cheap coins are not great!


  • << <i>

    << <i>

    << <i>

    << <i>First we need to delineate what is considered AT. ie. give strict definitions to each type of toning and whether it is to be considered artificial or natural.

    Then when it comes to attributing a coins as AT or NT, along with the assignment should be the type of NT or AT.

    It is a disservice to describe a coin as AT without mentioning the method of AT involved. If one cannot specify the method of AT then perhaps they should not make it a habit of offering their opinion on AT or NT coins. >>



    There are many ways to at a coin, some methods of which we dont have access to the knowledge of how someone ats a coin. However, we do know of how coins can naturally tone: bags, albums, envelopes, ect. And we know the results of those as the commonly accepted naturally toned look. What you can say about a coin that is artificially toned is that it does not share a commonly accepted look of a naturally toned coin. A good analogy is: When you buy a used car, if you notice damage or a problem with the way it drives. You dont know what caused it but know it is not driving like an in-tune car should be. Was it flooded out? Was it in a wreck before you bought it? You may never know. Nor is it relevant to you, the buyer. You simply have the plain fact that it is not a good car to buy. >>



    Perhaps, perhaps.

    I would like to take this one step further. As a numismatist, is it possible that you SHOULD be more concerned with the METHOD of toning instead of the APPEARANCE of the coin. As experts of our trade, is it not our duty to be more concerned with the specific methods in which a coin has been altered from it's original state, whether natural or artificial. Instead of concerning ourselves with just the "appearance" of the coin to the eye? >>



    Considering the methods to at are dynamic, i.e. Evolving, while the proper look for a naturally toned coin based on known toning sources is static, the more reliable and consistent method of determining at vs nt is by knowing what is real to determine what is fake. You dont spot a counterfeit coin without knowing what a real one should look like. >>



    Again, you do make alot of sense. I like your style.
    Positive BST Transactions: Nags
  • Not a fan ill post or send you my toned 1926S

    In addition most 26-S toners are rim toners and are vivid, they dont need much if any tilting.

    As for AT or NT with peace dollars you cant really tell
  • poorguypoorguy Posts: 4,317


    << <i>

    << <i>

    << <i>

    << <i>

    << <i>First we need to delineate what is considered AT. ie. give strict definitions to each type of toning and whether it is to be considered artificial or natural.

    Then when it comes to attributing a coins as AT or NT, along with the assignment should be the type of NT or AT.

    It is a disservice to describe a coin as AT without mentioning the method of AT involved. If one cannot specify the method of AT then perhaps they should not make it a habit of offering their opinion on AT or NT coins. >>



    There are many ways to at a coin, some methods of which we dont have access to the knowledge of how someone ats a coin. However, we do know of how coins can naturally tone: bags, albums, envelopes, ect. And we know the results of those as the commonly accepted naturally toned look. What you can say about a coin that is artificially toned is that it does not share a commonly accepted look of a naturally toned coin. A good analogy is: When you buy a used car, if you notice damage or a problem with the way it drives. You dont know what caused it but know it is not driving like an in-tune car should be. Was it flooded out? Was it in a wreck before you bought it? You may never know. Nor is it relevant to you, the buyer. You simply have the plain fact that it is not a good car to buy. >>



    Perhaps, perhaps.

    I would like to take this one step further. As a numismatist, is it possible that you SHOULD be more concerned with the METHOD of toning instead of the APPEARANCE of the coin. As experts of our trade, is it not our duty to be more concerned with the specific methods in which a coin has been altered from it's original state, whether natural or artificial. Instead of concerning ourselves with just the "appearance" of the coin to the eye? >>



    Considering the methods to at are dynamic, i.e. Evolving, while the proper look for a naturally toned coin based on known toning sources is static, the more reliable and consistent method of determining at vs nt is by knowing what is real to determine what is fake. You dont spot a counterfeit coin without knowing what a real one should look like. >>



    Again, you do make alot of sense. I like your style. >>



    Thank you. I do appreciate your call that more investigation be done as to the methods used by doctors to at coins. However, the downside by making their methods known and pointing out their flaws is that it only helps the doctor make more believable color to the untrained eye. We point out the obvious tells and the doctor modifies his process to fix what we point out. That is a bad side effect that nobody wants. In this case the road to that hell would be paved by good intentions.
    Brandon Kelley - ANA - 972.746.9193 - http://www.bestofyesterdaycollectibles.com
  • MikeInFLMikeInFL Posts: 10,188 ✭✭✭✭
    Oh, the irony.
    Collector of Large Cents, US Type, and modern pocket change.
  • stealerstealer Posts: 4,029 ✭✭✭✭
    Looks fried.
  • Here is my 26-s in a MS64 slab

    image
    image


    However here are a couple others, as you can see their toning is wild at times and doesn't follow predictable patterns
    image
    image
    These ones are one sided

    image
    image
    image

  • etexmikeetexmike Posts: 6,852 ✭✭✭
    I think the coin is AT. Just wanted to get my 2 cents in on the subject. image


    Mike
  • georgiacop50georgiacop50 Posts: 2,909 ✭✭✭✭
    I think it could be NT.
  • rickoricko Posts: 98,724 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Likely AT.... and more than one method can produce such tarnish. The best AT coins are considered NT... just a fact of the hobby. Some coin doctors are that good. Cheers, RickO
  • I have little concerns that the coin is AT...attractive but you can buy them on ebay like this pretty easily. image
  • crazyhounddogcrazyhounddog Posts: 14,055 ✭✭✭✭✭
    If it's artifical someone did a good job.... I disagree I think it looks just fine. Now tar & feather me.....Joe
    The bitterness of "Poor Quality" is remembered long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.
  • rickoricko Posts: 98,724 ✭✭✭✭✭
    No tar, no feathers Joe.... we all have opinions... image Cheers, RickO
  • I'd go out tonite and leave it as a bar tip!
  • crazyhounddogcrazyhounddog Posts: 14,055 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>No tar, no feathers Joe.... we all have opinions... image Cheers, RickO >>



    Thank you for that I was worried a bit....image
    The bitterness of "Poor Quality" is remembered long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.
  • telephoto1telephoto1 Posts: 4,961 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Sorry OP but this coin is textbook AT from what I can see...it will gen only if submitted.

    RIP Mom- 1932-2012
  • TONEDDOLLARSTONEDDOLLARS Posts: 2,928 ✭✭✭✭


    << <i>I think it's really nice looking & very pretty. But David Hall says there is no such thing as a rainbow toned peace dollar! Just thought I'ld throw that in.... >>



    That is not really what he said.
  • 123cents123cents Posts: 7,178 ✭✭✭
    AT.
    image
  • lcoopielcoopie Posts: 8,873 ✭✭✭✭✭
    who else would like to see a youtube video by
    Ricko
    in his coin laboratory,
    brewing up some rainbow peace dollars?
    LCoopie = Les

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