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What is the best grade to collect...

With the Registry Set, a PO1 brings VF/XF money, an AU58 brings MS63 money and a Top Pop brings 10x the next lower grade money. What's the best grade to collect... one grade below Top Pop?
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  • illini420illini420 Posts: 11,466 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I always go for the best I can afford image
  • TennesseeDaveTennesseeDave Posts: 4,809 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I like my circulated coins in XF-40/45 and my unc. coins in 64/65.
    Trade $'s
  • shorecollshorecoll Posts: 5,447 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I think it really depends on the series, some series only keys are run up in AU-58. Some series VFs look OK, in others they're dogs. In Franklins 65's or 66's are nice and not run up like 67's.
    ANA-LM, NBS, EAC
  • RayboRaybo Posts: 5,339 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I have always thought that AU's are the best bang for the buck.
  • tradedollarnuttradedollarnut Posts: 20,200 ✭✭✭✭✭
    The best grade to collect is the grade at which you'd rather have the money in the bank than appreciate the quality difference for the next grade up. This of course is different for each individual combination of pocketbook and eye.
  • LotsoLuckLotsoLuck Posts: 3,786 ✭✭✭
    I always liked high end AU's, but unless you build a cool set it just looks like a discombobulated lot of circulated coins, or dare I say dreck?


    discombobulated, yep nailed it without a spell checker image
  • MidLifeCrisisMidLifeCrisis Posts: 10,550 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>I like my circulated coins in XF-40/45 and my unc. coins in 64/65. >>


    I used to think this too. But now my answer to this question is there isn't one best grade, either for value or consistent eye appeal.

    On a related note, I used to think that building a collection closely matched in grade was the best way to go...now I think eye appeal is far more important than grade.
  • numobrinumobri Posts: 1,473 ✭✭✭


    I agree with "tradedollarnut" and , He has alot more money then I do.


    Brian
    NUMO
  • JCMhoustonJCMhouston Posts: 5,306 ✭✭✭
    I agree with TDN and MLC, buy the best you can comfortably afford, and go for eye appealing coins. I have some 63's-65's that I have not upgraded simply because the few I have seen with a higher technical grade were not as appealing to me.
  • ArtistArtist Posts: 2,013 ✭✭✭
    Generally, I like collecting UNC coins because I love design... in circulated grades, the design starts to go missing.

    In every series, there is generally a place where a 1-point grade difference equates to a double in price... I try to collect the grade right before that happens.

    For me it sort of comes down to the fact that I value owning a coin more than I value a 1-point grade bump... therefore, I cannot bring myself to pay the same price for both.
  • jomjom Posts: 3,487 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I'd rather collect coins than collect grades. image

    jom
  • droopyddroopyd Posts: 5,381 ✭✭✭


    << <i>With the Registry Set, a PO1 brings VF/XF money, an AU58 brings MS63 money and a Top Pop brings 10x the next lower grade money. >>



    Given these options, I'd take the VF/XF over the PO01, the MS63 over the AU58 (with a few possible exceptions), and I would stay away from the "top pops" like the plague.
    Me at the Springfield coin show:
    image
    60 years into this hobby and I'm still working on my Lincoln set!
  • As always, collect what you like and enjoy the hobby, that goes for grades as well as coins.

    For new folks, it is best to spend some time and effort to learn at least the basics of grading before venturing into expensive high grade coins, that way the tuition will be cheaper, and less painful--and virtually every collector pays tuition.

  • PerryHallPerryHall Posts: 46,832 ✭✭✭✭✭
    For many coins there is a grade where there is a BIG jump in price over the next lower grade. I like to buy a high end example of the grade just below the grade where there is a big jump in price.

    Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
    "Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
    "Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire

  • SonorandesertratSonorandesertrat Posts: 5,695 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I agree with TDN regarding general philosophy, but I generally prefer coins to be at least VF20 and up. I see no point in buying coins in the 68-70 range, because real (not gradeflated) 67s give me everything that I want in a coin.
    I am not a fan of P01 collections---they strike me as gimmicky (registry set stuff with negligible detail, an usually very little overall eye appeal).
    Member: EAC, NBS, C4, CWTS, ANA

    RMR: 'Wer, wenn ich schriee, hörte mich denn aus der Engel Ordnungen?'

    CJ: 'No one!' [Ain't no angels in the coin biz]
  • drei3reedrei3ree Posts: 3,430 ✭✭✭✭
    I agree that PO1 coins are gimmicky and a waste of good plastic. image For modern bullion I want only 70s and First Strike (where available), and for IH5c/Buffaloes it needs to be 66/67 depending on the year and mint.
  • rickoricko Posts: 98,724 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Collect the coins that appeal to you... unless this is a business. If a hobby, enjoy it. Cheers, RickO
  • dsessomdsessom Posts: 2,435 ✭✭✭✭✭
    There isn't a "One size fits all" answer to this question. I have personally found AU58 is my favorite grade, since some of them look MS but usually aren't priced as MS. But more and more here lately, the AU58's are being priced around MS62-63 range and that's because of the new "Everyman" Registry sets.
    Best regards,
    Dwayne F. Sessom
    Ebay ID: V-Nickel-Coins
  • PTVETTERPTVETTER Posts: 6,024 ✭✭✭✭✭
    the best coin you can afford!

    Buy the coin not the grade. I have seen some Au58s that are just stunning and would rather have them that some Mint State coins.

    Eye appeal is worth a bunch.
    Pat Vetter,Mercury Dime registry set,1938 Proof set registry,Pat & BJ Coins:724-325-7211


  • BroadstruckBroadstruck Posts: 30,497 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>the best coin you can afford!

    Buy the coin not the grade. I have seen some Au58s that are just stunning and would rather have them that some Mint State coins.

    Eye appeal is worth a bunch. >>



    image

    If viewing the coin makes your wallet wiggle image
    To Err Is Human.... To Collect Err's Is Just Too Much Darn Tootin Fun!
  • BaleyBaley Posts: 22,663 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I favor 200+ year old coins that circulated for a time in actual commerce, while our country was still young. I also like to see most of the design. And I don't like dipped white coins, or worn smooth, featureless slugs... probably my favorite grade is an unquestionably original VF30

    edited to add: for Modern coins (those minted after 1836) I prefer AU58, for nuveaux moderns (after 1916), MS64, and for ultra moderns (after 1982) MS66-69

    Liberty: Parent of Science & Industry

  • LindeDadLindeDad Posts: 18,766 ✭✭✭✭✭
    My personal choice is if it's younger than me I like MS66 or better, if it's older AU58 down to XF40. And as mentioned when cost comes into play I tend to go to that just under the jump in price grade.
  • RYKRYK Posts: 35,800 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Obviously, it depends on the series. For No Motto era US gold, I prefer original XF-45. I think you generally get the most bang for the buck. Often, the next grade up is either ugly or enhanced (or both).
  • IrishMikeyIrishMikey Posts: 1,561 ✭✭✭
    I like really eye-appealing EF-45 type coins. If you are working on a particular series, put
    together a complete grading set and you will have at least one of every grade.
  • goldengolden Posts: 9,995 ✭✭✭✭✭
    AU 58 but not just any 58,pick out the nice ones. image
  • toyz4geotoyz4geo Posts: 1,484 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>I always go for the best I can afford image >>



    image

    I try to get the best I can afford for my registry set. It helps when dealers have a layaway plan to spread the payments out over a 3-4 month period. I have a few that are in a lower grade than I would like, but have you priced MS65 or 66 Barber halves lately..LOL. I am happy with my 64 right now

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