What is the best grade to collect...

With the Registry Set, a PO1 brings VF/XF money, an AU58 brings MS63 money and a Top Pop brings 10x the next lower grade money. What's the best grade to collect... one grade below Top Pop?
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Michael Kittle Rare Coins --- 1908-S Indian Head Cent Grading Set --- No. 1 1909 Mint Set --- Kittlecoins on Facebook --- Long Beach Table 448
discombobulated, yep nailed it without a spell checker
<< <i>I like my circulated coins in XF-40/45 and my unc. coins in 64/65. >>
I used to think this too. But now my answer to this question is there isn't one best grade, either for value or consistent eye appeal.
On a related note, I used to think that building a collection closely matched in grade was the best way to go...now I think eye appeal is far more important than grade.
I agree with "tradedollarnut" and , He has alot more money then I do.
Brian
World Collection
British Collection
German States Collection
In every series, there is generally a place where a 1-point grade difference equates to a double in price... I try to collect the grade right before that happens.
For me it sort of comes down to the fact that I value owning a coin more than I value a 1-point grade bump... therefore, I cannot bring myself to pay the same price for both.
>>>My Collection
jom
<< <i>With the Registry Set, a PO1 brings VF/XF money, an AU58 brings MS63 money and a Top Pop brings 10x the next lower grade money. >>
Given these options, I'd take the VF/XF over the PO01, the MS63 over the AU58 (with a few possible exceptions), and I would stay away from the "top pops" like the plague.
60 years into this hobby and I'm still working on my Lincoln set!
For new folks, it is best to spend some time and effort to learn at least the basics of grading before venturing into expensive high grade coins, that way the tuition will be cheaper, and less painful--and virtually every collector pays tuition.
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
I am not a fan of P01 collections---they strike me as gimmicky (registry set stuff with negligible detail, an usually very little overall eye appeal).
RMR: 'Wer, wenn ich schriee, hörte mich denn aus der Engel Ordnungen?'
CJ: 'No one!' [Ain't no angels in the coin biz]
Dwayne F. Sessom
Ebay ID: V-Nickel-Coins
Buy the coin not the grade. I have seen some Au58s that are just stunning and would rather have them that some Mint State coins.
Eye appeal is worth a bunch.
<< <i>the best coin you can afford!
Buy the coin not the grade. I have seen some Au58s that are just stunning and would rather have them that some Mint State coins.
Eye appeal is worth a bunch. >>
If viewing the coin makes your wallet wiggle
edited to add: for Modern coins (those minted after 1836) I prefer AU58, for nuveaux moderns (after 1916), MS64, and for ultra moderns (after 1982) MS66-69
Liberty: Parent of Science & Industry
together a complete grading set and you will have at least one of every grade.
<< <i>I always go for the best I can afford
I try to get the best I can afford for my registry set. It helps when dealers have a layaway plan to spread the payments out over a 3-4 month period. I have a few that are in a lower grade than I would like, but have you priced MS65 or 66 Barber halves lately..LOL. I am happy with my 64 right now
My War Nickels https://www.pcgs.com/setregistry/nickels/jefferson-nickels-specialty-sets/jefferson-nickels-fs-basic-war-set-circulation-strikes-1942-1945/publishedset/94452