Does indifferent slabbing really matter? Last year I sold Gecko 20 misc. slabbed 1/4 Eagles, and the first thing he did was crack them out. TD
Numismatist. 54 year member ANA. Former ANA Senior Authenticator. Winner of four ANA Heath Literary Awards; three Wayte and Olga Raymond Literary Awards; Numismatist of the Year Award 2009, and ANA Lifetime Achievement Award 2020. Also won the PNG's Robert Friedberg Award for "The Enigmatic Lincoln Cents of 1922," Available now from Whitman or Amazon.
<< <i>Common date slabbed MS69's have an absolute zero premium over raw.....basically its like the dealer is throwing in a fancy airtite for free. >>
At some rediculously high spot price one has to be prepared for possible counterfeits. At that time certified will be better than not certified. I would always choose certified over non-certified if I was paying no more for it.
<< <i>Common date slabbed MS69's have an absolute zero premium over raw.....basically its like the dealer is throwing in a fancy airtite for free. >>
At some rediculously high spot price one has to be prepared for possible counterfeits. At that time certified will be better than not certified. I would always choose certified over non-certified if I was paying no more for it. >>
Exactly. The cert is worth keeping them in the slabs.
Yeah, because there is no such thing as a fake slab.
If you need a GOLD eagle to be slabbed for you to confirm its authenticity, then I suggest that you have no business buying such coins in the first place. An old bust half? Ok. A foreign silver coin? Sure. An AGE? Really?
Edited to add further: If there were 100 gold eagle coins on a table, and 20 of them were counterfeit, and all were slabbed....I probably could not pick out all the fakes accurately. But if all 100 were raw, I guarantee I could sort the 20 fakes within 10 mins.
Comments
Velocity, Not Valuation Defines A Bubble.
<< <i>slabbed decent ~ Raw a little high. >>
Does indifferent slabbing really matter?
Last year I sold Gecko 20 misc. slabbed 1/4 Eagles, and the first thing he did was crack them out.
TD
<< <i>Common date slabbed MS69's have an absolute zero premium over raw.....basically its like the dealer is throwing in a fancy airtite for free. >>
At some rediculously high spot price one has to be prepared for possible counterfeits. At that time certified will be better than not certified. I would always choose certified over non-certified if I was paying no more for it.
Velocity, Not Valuation Defines A Bubble.
<< <i>
<< <i>Common date slabbed MS69's have an absolute zero premium over raw.....basically its like the dealer is throwing in a fancy airtite for free. >>
At some rediculously high spot price one has to be prepared for possible counterfeits. At that time certified will be better than not certified. I would always choose certified over non-certified if I was paying no more for it. >>
Exactly. The cert is worth keeping them in the slabs.
If you need a GOLD eagle to be slabbed for you to confirm its authenticity, then I suggest that you have no business buying such coins in the first place. An old bust half? Ok. A foreign silver coin? Sure. An AGE? Really?
Edited to add further: If there were 100 gold eagle coins on a table, and 20 of them were counterfeit, and all were slabbed....I probably could not pick out all the fakes accurately. But if all 100 were raw, I guarantee I could sort the 20 fakes within 10 mins.