2010 ASE Proof - 3 of 10 with Milkspots
Hey, I haven't been on in a LONG time. I collect ASE Proofs and of course last year was a dud. Anyway, I was excited to order some ASE on my subscription and ordered 10 which I plan to get graded. I filled out the paperwork (Wow first strike has gotten silly expensive!) and start getting coins ready. I did a brief inspection on each coin. I was very surprised to see a milk spot. I continued to look and now I am going to go back through the 7 clean ones just to make sure. 3 of the 10 have clear milkspots on the coin. They are small but they are there.
With the expense of grading, designation, and shipping - I thought I just saved myself over $100 by sending these back to PCGS. Be sure to check them!
Swest
With the expense of grading, designation, and shipping - I thought I just saved myself over $100 by sending these back to PCGS. Be sure to check them!
Swest
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If you still can.
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<< <i>I hope you plan on sending those 3 back to the mint!!
If you still can. >>
Buyer has seven days after receipt to return to the mint. They even include a return form, but postage is on the buyer.
Velocity, Not Valuation Defines A Bubble.
<< <i>Dip in acetone upon receipt... then do what ever you want to do with them. Cheers, RickO >>
Has it been proved that acetone will neutralize the source of the milk-spotting!
I've been collecting these since 1986 anywhere from 1 to 3 ea. per issue. I have no evidence of milk spots on any of my coins and I've never given them an acetone bath. These are all Raw of course.
Cheers!
Kirk
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So I returned those and teh other 7 are off to PCGS. I have never done the acetone bath. Heck, I don't even open the coin holders because I am paranoid to mess up the coins
I do have some raw ones but for my vacuum collection I just buy, grade, put in bank box, and forget!
Swest
DO you submit them in the mint capsule only, or the unopened mint box, or else a soft flip?
Kirk
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<< <i>Swest,
DO you submit them in the mint capsule only, or the unopened mint box, or else a soft flip?
Kirk >>
i started out sending in the mint packaging and requesting all packaging returned but sometimes capsules were missing or nothing was returned.
i switched to sending in mylar flips and have had good results(many MS70`s) in my submissions.
i have to add that i have never tried the acetone dip i mentioned in my earlier post.
Velocity, Not Valuation Defines A Bubble.
derryb, request capsule back and you wil get capsule back from PCGS!!!!
Always works for me.
<< <i>You won't get the capsule back but you have a much better shot at a 70.
derryb, request capsule back and you wil get capsule back from PCGS!!!!
Always works for me. >>
sorry, meant to say you won't always get the capsule back. Sometimes they honor my request, sometimes they don't.
Velocity, Not Valuation Defines A Bubble.
Keeper of the VAM Catalog • Professional Coin Imaging • Prime Number Set • World Coins in Early America • British Trade Dollars • Variety Attribution
Never thought to request them back....
<< <i>i have heard that an acetone dip will neutralize the milkspots. >>
How so?
<< <i>
<< <i>I hope you plan on sending those 3 back to the mint!!
If you still can. >>
Buyer has seven days after receipt to return to the mint. They even include a return form, but postage is on the buyer. >>
Unless they have changed their policy they will refund return postage, but you have to ask.
<< <i>
<< <i>Dip in acetone upon receipt... then do what ever you want to do with them. Cheers, RickO >>
Has it been proved that acetone will neutralize the source of the milk-spotting!
I've been collecting these since 1986 anywhere from 1 to 3 ea. per issue. I have no evidence of milk spots on any of my coins and I've never given them an acetone bath. These are all Raw of course.
Cheers!
Kirk >>
You all need to learn the difference between removal and neutralization as they are not the same. Yes it is nit picky, but if yer gonna talk technical, be accurate and correct even down to the gnat's ass.
<< <i>
<< <i>i have heard that an acetone dip will neutralize the milkspots. >>
How so? >>
i guess that was poorly worded on my part. i have read on this forum that some members do an acetone bath to ASE`s before submitting to help prevent milkspots from appearing. my original post suggested acetone would remove existing spots. my bad.
acetone will not remove spots, yet it should keep more from forming or the exisiting ones from "growing".
if the spot is on the mirror, MS70 done with care should remove the spot, rinse in distilled water, then acetone it. i cracked a reverse proof PR67 because of spotting and got rid of the spot and use it as my raw example.
a dip will work, too but as a last resort.
IF the coin is flawless sans a minor mirror spot, i'd try to get it off with MS70 and rinse in acetone then submit to PCGS rather than just sending it back. your odds of getting a real nice one in return from the warehouse is not in your favor. (JMHExperience)
When the ASE is struck, the area of the dried spot is then pressed into the coin.
It is part of the coin and can't be removed. JMHO.
scott
<< <i>You won't get the capsule back but you have a much better shot at a 70.
derryb, request capsule back and you wil get capsule back from PCGS!!!!
Always works for me. >>
I sometimes get them back cracked and a rare time, not at all. I've started to pre-open them so they can be more readily pried open at PCGS.
I am seriously starting to reconsider the value of getting these graded. I have a collection and I like them graded by PCGS. I try to get a couple 70s but pricing is silly. All my earlier ones are first strike so I stuck with it but man it is really prohibative now. Between that and standard grading, I am paying $32 per coin and that is before the insane shipping costs we pay as well. That was $21 or so to get them sent less than 80 miles to where I live from PCGS.
This might be my last year since the quality is seemingly down and the expenses are up.
Swest
<< <i>Milk spots are actually the rinse that has dried on the planchet before striking.
When the ASE is struck, the area of the dried spot is then pressed into the coin.
It is part of the coin and can't be removed. JMHO.
scott >>
Absolutely .... You are wasting your time using Acetone in the above example, however, "milky spots" that are caused by environmental surroundings (humidity, poor storage etc) may benefit from Acetone, MS70 or a dip)
<< <i>This thread is useless without pics. >>
Here's the capsules I didn't get back from grading:
Velocity, Not Valuation Defines A Bubble.
<< <i>
<< <i>This thread is useless without pics. >>
Here's the capsules I didn't get back from grading: >>
Those look just like the ones I didn't get back. I wonder if they're only keeping that type and returning the rest.
Keeper of the VAM Catalog • Professional Coin Imaging • Prime Number Set • World Coins in Early America • British Trade Dollars • Variety Attribution
<< <i>I learned to dip these in acetone to prevent milk spot manifestation from Russ. I pour an inch of acetone into a shallow glass container. Using cotton gloves, I hold the coin by the edges and swish it around in the acetone. Then I rinse it with alcohol and follow that with very hot water. I place it on a soft cotton cloth (like Tshirt material) and gently blow dry with warm air. (both sides). I have never had milkspots on my ASE's. Oh yes, I do agree, the process is a neutralization. Cheers, RickO >>
Thank you for the response, I assume you are using laboratory grade acetone and alcohol, is the hot water bath distilled water? I just pulled out a civil war comm that I had not looked at for years and it did not have spots, but it had white haze around the perimeter. After that I decided I need to at least try to help my coins. I assume the acetone bath would also help to prevent the white haze? Thanks
Please keep in mind that I am not a flipper type. I try to buy enough to keep a couple 70s at a low entry point. But PCGS 69DCAM are going in the $50-$60 range and it cost me personally - $45 +$32 + shipping to get them. That is $77 a coin plus shipping and ebay fees if and when I sell.
The PR70DCAM are going right around $105, so there is absolutely no way to even come close to breaking even. If I had gotten 3 70DCAM maybe..barely. But my goal is always to get 2 70s. It is WAY cheaper to just buy them on ebay at $100 or so and be done with it.
Just my two cents.
Swest