What grade 'needs the plus' the most?

I say it's 58.
There are some really excellent 58s that, while technically just a 58, ought to be called out as different than the rest.
There are some really excellent 58s that, while technically just a 58, ought to be called out as different than the rest.
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and possibly MS-66. I got One + out of 6 and I consider
myself lucky it was a MS-65FH, Liberty standing Quarter 1918.
Camelot
<< <i>I say it's 58.
There are some really excellent 58s that, while technically just a 58, ought to be called out as different than the rest. >>
They already are---primo, technical 58 coins are typically 'market graded' (bumped up to MS61-63 usually).
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"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
say it is $200 in X and $3500 in X+1
and I am not talking just moderns, but Morgans have similar proportional jumps
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<< <i>The grade just before the big jump in price to the next higher grade. >>
Of course.
JH
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No offense, but 58+ doesn't make any sense to me. A true 58 is a 64 with rub. It is NOT a 61/62 with rub. 61s and 62s are way too beat up to be true 58s. They're 55 tops. So, to me a 58 is already maxed out as the next grade up is probably a 64. How would you price it?
So I would agree with the 64+ quantifier....with the 65+ and 66+ right behind it. For Morgans, Peace dollars and other set coins it's often at the 66 to 67 levels where even tripling or quadrupling of price occurs....that's where the + will give the most benefit to the owner.
roadrunner
A true AU50 has seen some circulation and has actual light wear.
A typical AU53 is a rubbed or poorly struck 60/61, or has more than just rub.
A typical AU55 is a rubbed 62/63.
A typical AU58 is a lightly rubbed 64/65.
A PQ AU58 (or 58+) is a lightly rubbed, fully struck 65/66 or higher.
That's my train of though. So, yeah, I would have to agree that 58 needs the PLUS grade more than any other.
Dwayne F. Sessom
Ebay ID: V-Nickel-Coins
Slightly less benefit would be gained by a classic coin with just a few of the higher grade and a lot of undergrades like a 31-S MS66 5c.
--Jerry
It depends upon the coin.
How would you price a 58+?? The next grade for a 58 is *sort of* a 64, so would you price a 58+ at $2000 and a 60 at $700? That doesn't work. So would you price a 58+ at $600? That would be great, but how many dealers are actually going to price it that way? To me a 58+ doesn't work well because they're going to be dang hard to price IMHO.
<< <i>For MS/Pf coins, price douiblings for the most part don't occur until the 64 to 65 level.
So I would agree with the 64+ quantifier....with the 65+ and 66+ right behind it. For Morgans, Peace dollars and other set coins it's often at the 66 to 67 levels where even tripling or quadrupling of price occurs....that's where the + will give the most benefit to the owner.
roadrunner >>
I will be sending this one in for regrading! Think it has a chance for a 66?
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Looking at the "grade space" (in reality a near-meaningless term) and ignoring "price space" (much more meaningful), the largest distance between grades is not at the high end of the grading scale but rather the low end (for a combination of historical and "price space" reasons). I would say the plus modifier would thus most useful for AG and Fair grades.
Ed. S.
(EJS)
I was thinking not about prices, but about grades. I was thinking about what specific numeric coin grade is generally the 'broadest' and could use a division. Not based on price, but based on how the coin looks.
My focus was not price nor rarity at all. Thus the wake up call. My head apparently is in a completely different place than most coin collectors. A humbling thought as I proceed to the Santa Clara coin show tomorrow. Not a particularly good feeling either; I feel out of touch.
I'd say some MS conditional rarities, such as a few of the Morgans (1884-S, 1896-O, 1901-P for example), also can use it because of the huge spreads from one MS grade to the next.
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