Which coin is graded higher? 1858 Flying Eagle Cent *REVEALED IN COMMENT*
P0CKETCHANGE
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Coin A
Coin B
Nothing is as expensive as free money.
Which coin is graded higher? 1858 Flying Eagle Cent *REVEALED IN COMMENT*
This is a public poll: others will see what you voted for.
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Based upon the images my opinion is that Coin A has more wear. I can't tell much else since the lighting set-up appears different, even though they are both PCGS TrueView images. Therefore, I will guess Coin B is graded higher.
In honor of the memory of Cpl. Michael E. Thompson
I agree with Tom that Coin A has noticeably more wear...but I am guessing Coin A thinking that that may be the point of this thread.
chopmarkedtradedollars.com
Coin A
Dave
Coin B.
Coin A looks nicer and also looks like it’s should grade higher and why else make a post.
Coin B because there is less rub on the breast.
WS
I like the color in b a nit better. Both are good 👍
I prefer Coin A
Sometimes, it’s better to be LUCKY than good. 🍀 🍺👍
My Full Walker Registry Set (1916-1947):
https://www.ngccoin.com/registry/competitive-sets/16292/
Coin A seems to have fewer dings.
Coin A has a more “attractive” TV. That’s my best reason for being contrary - coin B.
“The thrill of the hunt never gets old”
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Retired sets: Soaring Eagles
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They both look nice and the deeper toning makes Coin A stand out a bit more, but Coin B is really nice too….and seems a tiny bit better in my opinion.
Is one graded higher than the other? They both have a slight amount of circulation wear, so I’m thinking both at AU58? Could be wrong. Zack.
Yes, one is graded (slightly) higher. It's not a trick question.
Nothing is as expensive as free money.
I would pick A. It has fewer spots and better luster.
A looked better, then I noticed the contact Nick on the left corn on the reverse. So I go with B
AU63 & MS64?
That's a tough one. If they aren't mis-graded or if there's something we can't see, I give B a very slight technical edge. Maybe.
B also appears to be an older TV (which in my opinion had better surface quality and color matching), with A the newer reiteration.
Typed that and looked again. Even the headers show that I guess!
“We are only their care-takers,” he posed, “if we take good care of them, then centuries from now they may still be here … ”
Todd - BHNC #242
GRADE REVEAL BELOW
At the time of this comment, the voting is 60/40 in favor of Coin B as the higher graded coin. (Actually, 59/40...I can only assume the other 1% is some noncommittal reply from MFeld
)
Coin A is graded 58+
Coin B is graded 58
Splitting hairs, I know. The reason I posted this to solicit opinions is because I own Coin B, and want to get it into the very exclusive club of AU58+ FE Cents (of which there are currently 12 at PCGS in the entire series, or 1.3% of the 58s).
The 58+ grade is highly coveted by everyman collectors, some of whom also value that grade in combination with sticker service approvals to indicate the pinnacle of circulated coins. This is the "small letters" variety of which only three 58+ exist.
Coin B has the "sticker trifecta" of CAC, Eagle Eye Photo Seal (Rick Snow) and CMQ approval. I've been considering attempting a Reconsideration at PCGS for awhile, and think I may drop it off for show-service grading at FUN in January.
Thanks for the opinions and comments (agree with the old vs. new TrueView difference). Further thoughts and ruminations are welcome, and I'll update the thread if/when I actually submit it and get a result.
Nothing is as expensive as free money.
I will never understand this type registry game. Instead of worrying about an AU-58 as opposed to an AU-58+, how about going for an MS-63 or 64?
If I can get this coin into a 58+, it'll fund the entire upgrade to a 63 if I decide to go that route. I'm not sure I'd actually sell it though, as an upgrade to a 63 wouldn't even move me up a spot in the rankings.
Nothing is as expensive as free money.
Like I said, I don’t understand. The higher the grade, the better.
@BillJones you are thinking like we all thought back in the day. That a higher graded coin would be a nicer coin and we wanted nicer coins for our albums, 2x2 mylar holders or stash. Eventually, this becomes higher graded coins for our slabs, as well.
However, over the years the registry dynamic has provided an additional level of collector options, essentially strategic games collectors can play, and one of these strategic games a collector can play is with Everyman sets that had been marketed (and might still be marketed) as having AU58, or AU58+, as the highest grade. Those who choose to play that game might still value the coin very much, but the package of coin plus slab plus highest grade allowed for the game drives participation, revenue, profits and, yes, market sales prices for many coins. So, someone who participates in this niche might be quite happy with the time and expense to generate or acquire an AU58+ while they have no real use for an MS63. It is what it is and I have no issue with folks thinking that way even if I don't participate in that niche.
In honor of the memory of Cpl. Michael E. Thompson
Not everyone collects that way. I know type set collectors that pursue key or semi-key dates in lower grades than they could otherwise afford of common dates. For some of my coins, especially moderns, I've specifically chosen more visually interesting examples than ubiquitous top pop PR70DCAMs.
Then there is the question of budget and the opportunity cost thereof. If I have an incremental $800, for example, I'd be much better off upgrading my AU50 bust quarter than this FE Cent, based on the weighting multiplier in the set. Doing so would move me up a few spots in the rankings.
Nothing is as expensive as free money.
Beautiful original-looking FE cent.......as someone who lived in the spotlight of the #1 position for four years, I can only say I was very happy when I finally shook that registry monkey off my back. To each his own, of course.
Commems and Early Type
Each to their own. Maybe this will lower the demand for better coins and lower the price for me.
The other part is collecting the worst known in Poor-1. That is a solid pass for me, never.
And yes, I understand what they are doing. When you priced out of collecting the best, you go for niches like this. It’s not my thing. You keep paying the graders to get what you want. I rather spend my money on better coins and research materials. I was priced out of collecting the best long ago.
Honestly, I like having a collection of the most attractive circulated coins I can find. I’m not terribly fussed by my places, but it’s still a fun “competition”.
Also, the fact that this manner of collection is more appropriate for my economic station is secondary to the fact that it’s just satisfying to find the perfect upgrade for a set, and watching your collection’s ranking rise. To compete is human, and I think it adds interest to the hobby.
Newbie collector of type and circulated Peace dollars, photographer of places and animals, player of instruments and builder of amplifiers, espresso industry professional, and a person distracted by shiny objects. https://mycollect.com/Rule556/sets
Completion with quality, but often not the very best coins was big for me. I used to be the only collector who had every listed type from the half cent to the “old” commemorative coins. Now I can’t get the latest coins certification holders because the prices have gone way up. You can’t find a Washington Crossing the Delaware quarter for less than $80. I have the coin and all the rest raw in Proof sets.
Yeah, I'm completing a 20th century type set (no gold), and while the obvious expensive coins (barbers, SLQs, buffalos, etc.) are pretty easy to find in my price range with lots of options to choose from, but I was surprised at how difficult it was finding nice cladded types that look good. This set may end up costing almost as much as my circulated Peace set. I spent more than I'd like to admit for my Delaware quarter for example. Lots of crappy looking moderns out there in slabs.
I'm letting the youngsters collect anything post 1999.
Newbie collector of type and circulated Peace dollars, photographer of places and animals, player of instruments and builder of amplifiers, espresso industry professional, and a person distracted by shiny objects. https://mycollect.com/Rule556/sets