What is the most expensive coin you have cracked out and kept raw?
TheGoonies1985
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I break 99% of my coins out I simply prefer collecting raw coins in Mylar cardboard flips. Easier to store and I have no intentions of ever selling while am alive then whoever gets them can sell them raw.
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I have yet to crack any coin out. But you have me intrigued - what kind of coins do you collect?
Young Numismatist • My Toned Coins
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Latin America reales. Most are 100$-200$ a few over 500$ and very few over 1000$. Anything over 500$ goes into my bank vault and stays there. Many are authentic to start with and any high numerical grades I own AU-50 or higher stay graded.
None in 30 years. Any are now back in slabs. Sadly.
I last cracked out a coin to put in a raw page a couple of months ago. I think I paid about $100. I have almost never done that. I did crack out more expensive coins to go for a higher grade when I was a dealer. Then it was maybe up to thousand, but that was 20 years ago, and prices have changed a lot. A thousand was more money then.
Not sure how much me breaking them out been authentic vs numerical grades for the most part changes much in their value. Probably very little. I collect them for their historical value vs monetary value anyways.
Even cracking out coins in VF (or lower) numerical probably changes the value very little as well.
I'm not totally sure of the exact price, but I think about $135 is the highest value I've cracked out.
The 93-S was an NGC G4. All of the bottom row were broken out of holders. Next in price would be the 94 P. No regrets. The 92-S & 93 P were bought raw. I enjoy coins in the album.
I usually have regrets for a few hour or at most a day (depending on value) then I no longer care if I broke it out. In the end it does not take much time to be at peace with my choice.
That's on a sad note. I've been blessed to have some dealers that got just raw coin (mostly)
Hope ya find some as well 🙏
Most valuable was a $5 gold commem that needed a dip.
Then it was sold raw,
I'm with @coastaljerseyguy
Disclaimer: I'm not a dealer, trader, grader, investor or professional numismatist. I'm just a hobbyist. (To protect me but mostly you! 🤣 )
I bought a 1860 clark gruber $10 in NGC 55. I thought it was over graded and I also wanted to run it under water to take off some crud. I kept it raw for several months before sending it to PCGS where it graded 53+.
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Do details certified coins count?
I have a 1795 flowing hair silver dollar i bought in a “VF details, cleaned” holder.
A perfect coin to crack out and pass around among family and friends.
Who ever gets a chance to plop a big heavy naked coin like that into their hands?
30+ years coin shop experience (ret.) Coins, bullion, currency, scrap & interesting folks. Loved every minute!
This ~$200K Galba sestertius with a 1907 pedigree was a bit of a nail-biter to slam repeatedly with a hammer but a joy to hold raw.
Technically I didn't have to crack this one out. If it were in a holder that's where it would have stayed.
Student of numismatics and collector of Morgan dollars
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Wasn't a very expensive coin but I wound up cracking this to help complete my SBA dansco.
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@SmEagle1795 said “This ~$200K Galba sestertius with a 1907 pedigree was a bit of a nail-biter to slam repeatedly with a hammer but a joy to hold raw.”
I’ve cracked out a lot of coins over the years, but nothing of that magnitude!
Gotta love it as a raw coin collector myself!!!
Here's a small sample:
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edit- wrong thread
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I don’t crack expensive coins or hardly any coins period. Grading fees an extra expense of the business - plus selling raw expensive coins (and getting the money) tough. Good luck on that.
Would I crack out an S-VDB, 16-D, 3 Leg Buff or 55 DDO?...........No.
But I've cracked out significant coins for my 7070 (seated dollars), mostly to ensure they are genuine and problem free.
Disclaimer: I'm not a dealer, trader, grader, investor or professional numismatist. I'm just a hobbyist. (To protect me but mostly you! 🤣 )
Same here, I cracked a couple of $300-400 coins for my 7070, but when it came to my Lincoln set I actually sold my certified 09-S VDB and traded down to a circulated raw example that I could put guilt-free in my album.
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Not selling and whatever my family gets after I die is what they get (they have good careers anyways). I enjoy my hobby this way and that adds value to me while I am alive.
You are a dealer I understand your point of view that selling graded coins is easier and values are more stable that way. I rather buy rare coins graded myself then crack them out. But as mentioned I will never sell my coins so if they are raw it is fine with me.
I liberated a 09-S VDB (XF40) and a 22 no-D (VF35) from their PCGS slabs to finish my Dansco album. Thankfully there isn't a slot for the 55 DDO!
$4,100 FOR A VF-25 18/7-D buffalo for my 70-piece date,mm and major variety set.
Even thought you could afford a higher grade coin, have you ever intentionally purchased a lesser grade coin just to match or have a consistent look with the rest of the album or 7070? I have, many times.
Disclaimer: I'm not a dealer, trader, grader, investor or professional numismatist. I'm just a hobbyist. (To protect me but mostly you! 🤣 )
Probably the Seated $1 for my 7070. I kept the "With Motto" holdered.
Successful BST transactions with: SilverEagles92; Ahrensdad; Smitty; GregHansen; Lablade; Mercury10c; copperflopper; whatsup; KISHU1; scrapman1077, crispy, canadanz, smallchange, robkool, Mission16, ranshdow, ibzman350, Fallguy, Collectorcoins, SurfinxHI, jwitten, Walkerguy21D, dsessom.
@lkenefic - Did you get a picture of the entire slab before you broke her out?
Disclaimer: I'm not a dealer, trader, grader, investor or professional numismatist. I'm just a hobbyist. (To protect me but mostly you! 🤣 )
Probably, but it didn't make it to the folder for my 7070. I've got (literally) 1000's of image files that I import from the SD card to the same folder on my laptop but the file names are just numbers. I suppose I could dig it out, but the point is moot... It's a raw coin.
Successful BST transactions with: SilverEagles92; Ahrensdad; Smitty; GregHansen; Lablade; Mercury10c; copperflopper; whatsup; KISHU1; scrapman1077, crispy, canadanz, smallchange, robkool, Mission16, ranshdow, ibzman350, Fallguy, Collectorcoins, SurfinxHI, jwitten, Walkerguy21D, dsessom.
I always do and also keep the NGC or PCGS labels.
Exactly. I hope mine remain in the family but it only a matter of time before "ALL" our collections and coins end up in someone else's collection. These pictures and labels "MIGHT" help the seller.
Disclaimer: I'm not a dealer, trader, grader, investor or professional numismatist. I'm just a hobbyist. (To protect me but mostly you! 🤣 )
Where do you keep them?
Disclaimer: I'm not a dealer, trader, grader, investor or professional numismatist. I'm just a hobbyist. (To protect me but mostly you! 🤣 )
$2500-$4000. But only because a customer preferred them raw.
A few high grade peace dollars and Walking Liberty halves. Not my preference. I try to get the most valuable in plastic.
USB stick in my bank vault and labels in the same place with my better coins. They never leave there only USB stick when I have enough to add and also save them on my computer.
Oh, okay. I was thinking you had the labels or pictures in the back of your albums.
Disclaimer: I'm not a dealer, trader, grader, investor or professional numismatist. I'm just a hobbyist. (To protect me but mostly you! 🤣 )
Some do but I prefer my method just easier I find.
93-S Morgan to complete my Dansco. All of the keys in my albums were cracked out of slabs.