How to NOT dip a coin 101

To je sraciek.

People typically don't artificially tone the gem, problem free coins. They are trying to cover something up while at the same time trying to earn a color premium.

I think the lesson is to automatically assume AT is hiding either a problem or an excessively beat up coin.

Well, at least this is not the crime against humanity that I committed on several occasions by applying Ferric Chloride to my dateless Buffalo Nickels

any luster when you started or just a colored XF?

Truly, I don't think you did a poor job at all. The starting coin was rather compromised to begin with and no doubt had an aggressive treatment prior to your obtaining it that meant any future work would have to unravel a lot of layers. The coin certainly isn't a gem, but it was never going to be one again anyway. I think you did well.

By the way, this looks like the GR-12 (JR-4) die marriage, which is a slightly better die marriage that Dick and I had as an R4 in the reference work we sold about a decade ago. If so, it is a tougher die marriage, but historically I could not get any real premium for R4 Reeded Edge half dollars.

Always interesting to see these experiments.

@TomB said:
By the way, this looks like the GR-12 (JR-4) die marriage, which is a slightly better die marriage that Dick and I had as an R4 in the reference work we sold about a decade ago. If so, it is a tougher die marriage, but historically I could not get any real premium for R4 Reeded Edge half dollars.

i've only loosely kept up with the GR since the inception (or at least my awareness of them) and am wondering if your comment applies to graded coins with a nice look in say xf or better (MAYBE with a sticker)(MAYBE with official attribution on label)?

@joeykoins said:
I don't know? I prefer the coin before the dip.

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if you are referring to the artificially toned CBH in the OP, part of the reason a lot of us don't like stuff like that isn't just because it isn't a pretty toning pattern (to most) it is the fact of knowing there were probably unacceptable harsh chemicals involved AND most likely will start turning at some point, not for the better. also knowing someone can just churn these (ugly imo) coins out, PLENTY on ebay, knowing any goomba can do it, really turns us off to them and of course, with classic coins, they are usually quite problematic and it is also quite deceptive intent usually.

if the methods let the coins be stable and SAFE (non toxic chemicals) and the people buying them KNOW getting a premium back out of them is risky and they want to put their money into them knowing full well what they are doing, i wouldn't stand in their way. people burn their money on stuff ALL the time. i personally think the premiums on mint products these days is asinine BUT if everyone is happy and the mint keeps running, i am just one little ol person with his little ol opinion. to each their own. caveat emptor, ya know?

i'd buy the coin after dipping at the right price as it is very meaty cbh.

NOW, i know there are myriad coins in tpg holders with HIGHLY questionable toning and time will tell the tale with those.

i've owned a few coins long enough to see them start to turn (POSSIBLY some ms70 examples) i don't know for sure if that was what was used or not but i highly suspect it because that is usually what is used that yields such a result for copper coins. i wish i had the before pics still so i could post the difference and the time frame but it was only a year or two, raw.

Coins that old deserve a little more respect. To me it is sad to see them getting improperly messed with.