When is it worth sending for CAC?
New to the forum but not new to collecting. I have been curious, when does one think a coin is worth sending in to CAC? I have a 1916-D Merc. that is PCGS VG8. I find it a fairly attractive coin for the grade but I am not sure if it would be worth it to send it in to CAC.
Collector of Circulated Winged Liberty Head Dimes (Mercury Dimes)
Comments
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Compare recent sales of that coin and grade cac vs non cac. It’s likely that a coin like that could bring around 10% more as a cac approved example. If you think it’s solid for the grade, and it only costs 16 dollars to try, it couldn’t hurt. The coin will also be more salable and easier to liquidate at a fair price.
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I think you'll get a lot of different answers for this one. For me it is usually one or more of the following:
- When I'm wanting to validate my own opinion of the quality of the coin (surfaces, grade, etc.) as I learn more
- For potential re-sale because the market has determined it has more value with a bean
- For matched sets
If you only have the one coin, it might be easier to submit via a dealer or with someone else who is submitting since it's not economical to send for one coin unless it's uber valuable.
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Send everything worth $100 or more.
"It's like God, Family, Country, except Sticker, Plastic, Coin."
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@DelawareDoons said:
Send everything worth $100 or more.I'll take the other side of that advice. There are many coins in approximately the $100-$300 range, whose value doesn't benefit enough to make the fee worthwhile. That takes the potential of added liquidity into account, as well.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
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I sold a 1935 Connecticut half dollar in PCGS MS66 for 2x sheet Without a CAC sticker. I even mentioned that I had sent it in and it was rejected. Two respected dealers couldn’t believe it had been rejected. A CAC sticker is the opinion of one person. So, he didn’t like it, but everyone else that saw it did.
thefinn1 -
@MFeld said:
@DelawareDoons said:
Send everything worth $100 or more.I'll take the other side of that advice. There are many coins in approximately the $100-$300 range, whose value doesn't benefit enough to make the fee worthwhile. That takes the potential of added liquidity into account, as well.
I don't disagree but I find people don't really like nuanced advice
."It's like God, Family, Country, except Sticker, Plastic, Coin."
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Fresh meat
Welcome, you just possibly started a 300+ thread which will bring out all sides of the never ending drama regarding those 3 magical letters, CAC
P.S. What @Mfeld said is correct, but in your case a 16-D is def worth the effort of getting a bean imho.
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@DelawareDoons said:
@MFeld said:
@DelawareDoons said:
Send everything worth $100 or more.I'll take the other side of that advice. There are many coins in approximately the $100-$300 range, whose value doesn't benefit enough to make the fee worthwhile. That takes the potential of added liquidity into account, as well.
I don't disagree but I find people don't really like nuanced advice
.Or any kind of advice...
All comments reflect the opinion of the author, even when irrefutably accurate.
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Pictures would help. I've learned that CAC wants a certain "look," depending on the coin and grade. But as is a high value and sought after coin would most likely worth sending.
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@thefinn said:
I sold a 1935 Connecticut half dollar in PCGS MS66 for 2x sheet Without a CAC sticker. I even mentioned that I had sent it in and it was rejected. Two respected dealers couldn’t believe it had been rejected. A CAC sticker is the opinion of one person. So, he didn’t like it, but everyone else that saw it did.A CAC sticker is the opinion of three people, even though one of them carries considerably more weight than the others.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
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@MFeld said:
A CAC sticker is the opinion of three people, even though one of them carries considerably more weight than the others.And not getting a sticker doesn't mean they don't like the coin or think it's overgraded. This appears to be a difficult concept for some to accept.
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Welcome to the forum! ...and a hot button issue right off the bat!
Seriously though, there's enough of a price jump up to the next grade that might make it worth submission, but I'd check auction results to confirm. Since it's a key date and it's already slabbed, authentication isn't an issue. I think it depends what you want out of this coin. If you're looking to sell and maximize profits, and auction results confirm CAC as adding value, then go for it. It's only $16 on $1750 coin... (according to Price Guides)
Collecting: Dansco 7070; Middle Date Large Cents (VF-AU); Box of 20;
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Knock, knock.
Who's there?
Trolled.
Trolled who?
Trolled you, that's who!4 -
Some people will pay quite a bit more money for a particular coin if it has a CAC sticker. These are usually coins that are popular where few of them have been stickered. Some high grade gold comes to mind. Genuinely scarce type coins also come to mind.
Look at auction results, for starters.
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"Sou Mangueira......."0 -
There's also a difference between eye appeal and excellence for the grade. You can have a very pretty, very lustrous coin that just has too many marks to grade higher but has a real "wow!" factor. Such a coin won't merit a CAC but will attract a lot of attention. Some people seem to assume that CAC means the coin has superior eye appeal alone.
All comments reflect the opinion of the author, even when irrefutably accurate.
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If you want to sell the coin it may be worth it, however don't forget that the cost will be much more than just $16. To and from shipping for an expensive coin is costing more and more all the time.
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$500 or any thing being sold with rainbow toning that might be viewed skeptically (I.e. questioned as QT) without it
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The look of the coin and the spread in value between grades. I would not submit a VG 1916D Merc. I would submit a 1936-D Rhode Island in 67 as the spread between 67 and 68 is significant... as in (+/-) $40,000
Experience the World through Numismatics...it's more than you can imagine.
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@MFeld said:
@thefinn said:
I sold a 1935 Connecticut half dollar in PCGS MS66 for 2x sheet Without a CAC sticker. I even mentioned that I had sent it in and it was rejected. Two respected dealers couldn’t believe it had been rejected. A CAC sticker is the opinion of one person. So, he didn’t like it, but everyone else that saw it did.A CAC sticker is the opinion of three people, even though one of them carries considerably more weight than the others.
But it didn't help the price.
thefinn0 -
I have never heard of a CAC sticker hurting the value of a coin. If you like a piece enough and plan on keeping it is always a good ego boost to get the bean. If anything, it validates you spotted a good example of the series. If the downside is $16.50 and shipping, and that takes milk off your table, then do not do it.
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@CoinJunkie said:
Knock, knock.
Who's there?
Trolled.
Trolled who?
Trolled you, that's who!No trolling. It was a genuine question. Once I figure out how to post a picture of the coin here, I will do so. I think I may be prohibited from posting pictures until I reach a certain post amount? It just asks for the URL of the image and it is on my phone, so no URL.
Collector of Circulated Winged Liberty Head Dimes (Mercury Dimes)
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Go for it. If you get to join as a collector member and submit under your new account and it fails, CAC will refund your fee. So why not spend postage money to learn?
A Collectors Universe poster since 1997!1 -
@NumismaticJunkie said:
@CoinJunkie said:
Knock, knock.
Who's there?
Trolled.
Trolled who?
Trolled you, that's who!No trolling. It was a genuine question. Once I figure out how to post a picture of the coin here, I will do so. I think I may be prohibited from posting pictures until I reach a certain post amount? It just asks for the URL of the image and it is on my phone, so no URL.
If you plan to sell it, it's probably worth attempting to get a sticker on the coin. If you don't plan to sell soon, you can view lots of examples of VG 16-D dimes on PCGS CoinFacts and various auction archives (GC, Heritage, etc.) for free to see how yours stacks up.
If you have a Google account, you can upload your photo(s), and post a URL from there. Obviously, there are also many other options to host photos on the web.
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Here is a picture I hope.
Collector of Circulated Winged Liberty Head Dimes (Mercury Dimes)
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Nope, no picture. I have the same problem, was asked to load a picture but could not. Maybe noobs aren't allowed to play?
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@Seeker44 said:
Nope, no picture. I have the same problem, was asked to load a picture but could not. Maybe noobs aren't allowed to play?Seems a lot of noobs may have restrictions posting pictures. If you add a link from an image hosting website we can screenshot it and post it here.
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Any time you want an education at any price point.
My online coin store - https://desertmoonnm.com/1 -
Just because your coin meets a certain value threshold doesn’t mean you have to send it in. If you are going to sell it, it might make sense if the sticker would bring sufficiently more to cover the cost. A 16-D in VG is valuable but also very common. You should be able to get a good idea of the price difference. Obviously most of the price difference is coin quality. The sticker (or lack thereof) merely reflects that (assuming it’s been tried, which is definitely not a guarantee for a VG 16-D).
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Well, seems I cannot post picture. Once I can, I will.
Collector of Circulated Winged Liberty Head Dimes (Mercury Dimes)
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Let’s try this again.
Collector of Circulated Winged Liberty Head Dimes (Mercury Dimes)
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I think CAC is likely. I'm not sure how much it adds value, but you won't lose money on the CAC value.
All comments reflect the opinion of the author, even when irrefutably accurate.
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@jmlanzaf said:
I don't think CAC is likely. I'm not sure how much it adds value, but you won't lose money on the CAC value.Thank you! I have been looking for a 1916-D Merc that I liked. Although it is a lower grade, I found it to be a nice example of a circulated piece.
Collector of Circulated Winged Liberty Head Dimes (Mercury Dimes)
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I don' know if it's been discussed but you can't just send a coin to CAC. You first must apply for membership or have a coin submitted by a member collector or Dealer. CAC certifies coins that are "solid" for the grade. That should be your only consideration. I'd never send just one coin (due to shipping costs) but I have sent as few as 3.
If you do what you always did, you get what you always got.1 -
I base the decision on:
- my estimation of the coin's chances
- the value difference between a CAC and non-CAC'd coin
- the cost of submission
- the ease of submission (additional shipping to/from someone with submission privileges)
- the small (but real) risk of the coin getting lost or damaged in the mail
- the likelihood that I will want to sell it in the near future
Obviously, the decision is different for every coin.
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@NumismaticJunkie said:
@jmlanzaf said:
I don't think CAC is likely. I'm not sure how much it adds value, but you won't lose money on the CAC value.Thank you! I have been looking for a 1916-D Merc that I liked. Although it is a lower grade, I found it to be a nice example of a circulated piece.
I'm sorry. I accidentally sad I didn't think it would CAC. I meant that I thought it would CAC. It is solid, u think, for an 8. I just don't know that there's much price difference in that grade range
All comments reflect the opinion of the author, even when irrefutably accurate.
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At the Boston ANA in 2010, I bought a 1916-D dime graded by PCGS as VG-4 in the OGH which looks virtually as nice as the one pictured here and CAC gave it a gold sticker afterwards.
It is the only one gold stickered by CAC below AU grade.
I remember when I showed it to Laura Sperber and hearing her reaction "oh, it is a gem Good!
I never heard that before or since.
A Collectors Universe poster since 1997!2 -
Send it in, and see what happens, if it cac's ask yourself why, if it doesn't CAC ask yourself why...
The court jester does not play, but gently pulls the strings…
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@oreville said:
At the Boston ANA in 2010, I bought a 1916-D dime graded by PCGS as VG-4 in the OGH which looks virtually as nice as the one pictured here and CAC gave it a gold sticker afterwards.Is that a new grade? It's hard keeping up with all the changes in the grading standards.
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
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"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire0 -
Based on the picture, it looks like a nice coin and graded fairly. A sticker would not hurt the coin and perhaps add a small premium if sold. Cheers, RickO
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@PerryHall said:
@oreville said:
At the Boston ANA in 2010, I bought a 1916-D dime graded by PCGS as VG-4 in the OGH which looks virtually as nice as the one pictured here and CAC gave it a gold sticker afterwards.Is that a new grade? It's hard keeping up with all the changes in the grading standards.
Oh sorry meant G-04. JA liked it as a G-06. This is what happens when I post too late at night!!!
Originally he gave it a green sticker stating that he did not award a gold sticker while remaining in the same Good grade.
I showed him how CAC awarded gold stickers while a coin stays in the same Mint State grade or even in the same AU grade. Easily a gold sticker awarded.
A Collectors Universe poster since 1997!0 -
@PerryHall said:
@oreville said:
At the Boston ANA in 2010, I bought a 1916-D dime graded by PCGS as VG-4 in the OGH which looks virtually as nice as the one pictured here and CAC gave it a gold sticker afterwards.Is that a new grade? It's hard keeping up with all the changes in the grading standards.
Freudian slip to account for grade inflation! 😈😂 Just kidding…
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Here are slightly more clear photos maybe.
Collector of Circulated Winged Liberty Head Dimes (Mercury Dimes)
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