@Eldorado9 said:
That coin certainly looks genuine to me. Perhaps an EF-40? My suggestion would be to absolutely get it graded with PCGS. They will grade it, and make sure it's genuine. The coin could be quite valuable if authentic. The standard Redbook value for this coin ranges between $20,000 for Fine-12 example up to $85,000 for a MS-60 example.
I think you are looking at 1804 $10 eagle prices, this is a half eagle as pointed out by @BillJones
If I had to grade it I would say 50-53 comparing to past auctions. Still puts it around $8-$10k-ish range.
@crazyhounddog said:
You need to submit this coin for grading. I would highly recommend you send it to PCGS for grading. Send it registered mail. If you are not a member I would either join or find someone you REALLY trust to submit it for you. An authorized PCGS dealer might be a good place to start.
Congratulations on such a great example of a rare coin.
I'm not "sending it" anywhere... Where ever I take it I will take it in person... I can travel with it to pittsburgh or Philly or where ever...
Then get in your car and drive on out here to California. That’s where you’ll find PCGS. Make a road trip out of it. The weather is perfect for that right now😊
The bitterness of "Poor Quality" is remembered long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.
@Eldorado9 said:
That coin certainly looks genuine to me. Perhaps an EF-40? My suggestion would be to absolutely get it graded with PCGS. They will grade it, and make sure it's genuine. The coin could be quite valuable if authentic. The standard Redbook value for this coin ranges between $20,000 for Fine-12 example up to $85,000 for a MS-60 example.
The coin is valuable indeed (if genuine) but those prices are for an eagle and this appears to be a small 8 half eagle.
@Eldorado9 said:
That coin certainly looks genuine to me. Perhaps an EF-40? My suggestion would be to absolutely get it graded with PCGS. They will grade it, and make sure it's genuine. The coin could be quite valuable if authentic. The standard Redbook value for this coin ranges between $20,000 for Fine-12 example up to $85,000 for a MS-60 example.
The coin is valuable indeed (if genuine) but those prices are for an eagle and this appears to be a small 8 half eagle.
I stand corrected. I was looking at Eagle pricing! Sorry!
D'oh! It's a half eagle! The OP originally posted it was an eagle and so that is what I was basing my guess on with respect to the stars! Ugh. Yes, the stars on the obverse look good for a half eagle...
@Eldorado9 said:
That coin certainly looks genuine to me. Perhaps an EF-40? My suggestion would be to absolutely get it graded with PCGS. They will grade it, and make sure it's genuine. The coin could be quite valuable if authentic. The standard Redbook value for this coin ranges between $20,000 for Fine-12 example up to $85,000 for a MS-60 example.
The coin is valuable indeed (if genuine) but those prices are for an eagle and this appears to be a small 8 half eagle.
OOPS
The bitterness of "Poor Quality" is remembered long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.
@TomB said:
D'oh! It's a half eagle! The OP originally posted it was an eagle and so that is what I was basing my guess on with respect to the stars! Ugh. Yes, the stars on the obverse look good for a half eagle...
Fooled me too as the OP did say eagle.
The bitterness of "Poor Quality" is remembered long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.
Sorry to break it to you but if you want top $ you will have to "send it" somewhere - to be authenticated/graded. Otherwise, you will be selling to a local dealer who will be happy to offer a much lower amount for an ungraded coin.
Your Half Eagle is BD-2, an R-4+. On the Obverse, note the blunt 1 (missing top left flag), bisecting vertical crack through 0 in date into bust. On the Reverse the first A in America touches feather 3 & barely touches feather 4, as well as the bisecting reverse crack through the E of America to the wing.
No need to worry. As @PQueue pointed out, this coin is BD-2 variety, all of the die cracks and anomalies previously cited match later die states of the variety. I am quite sure that the coin is genuine.
Retired dealer and avid collector of U.S. type coins, 19th century presidential campaign medalets and selected medals. In recent years I have been working on a set of British coins - at least one coin from each king or queen who issued pieces that are collectible. I am also collecting at least one coin for each Roman emperor from Julius Caesar to ... ?
Dang, that is sweet!
Congratulations on owning a stunning example of this type.
At first, I thought the rims were too pronounced, but upon further reflection (and the comments of experts here), I agree with others; it is genuine and XF45+.
@PQueue said:
Your Half Eagle is BD-2, an R-4+. On the Obverse, note the blunt 1 (missing top left flag), bisecting vertical crack through 0 in date into bust. On the Reverse the first A in America touches feather 3 & barely touches feather 4, as well as the bisecting reverse crack through the E of America to the wing.
Sounds like you’ve done your homework. Without verifying yet it sounds right.
The bitterness of "Poor Quality" is remembered long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.
@PQueue said:
Your Half Eagle is BD-2, an R-4+. On the Obverse, note the blunt 1 (missing top left flag), bisecting vertical crack through 0 in date into bust. On the Reverse the first A in America touches feather 3 & barely touches feather 4, as well as the bisecting reverse crack through the E of America to the wing.
Thank you. A die pairing would clear up everything I was seeing.
Upon further review I believe it is genuine.
@MFeld said:
The coin looks like a genuine AU example to me.
If you'd like to message me or post here with your zip code, (not your address) I'd be happy to try to locate a trustworthy dealer in your area who could submit the coin for grading on your behalf.
THIS IS WHAT YOU NEED TO DO.
bob
Registry: CC lowballs (boblindstrom), bobinvegas1989@yahoo.com
@Two_Bit_Tommy said:
Hello everyone. I'm new to the forum and came here looking for advice on how to possibly have a family heirloom coin appraised/graded? And if anyone can offer advice on how to sell a valuable coin if we so decide to sell.... I need to speak to some Knowledgeable collectors who know what they are doing. Please advise.
misread.
not looking to sell yet...
I'd absolutely get it graded.
it's protected and with a grade attached to it, it would be easier to have an idea of its value and an easier sell.
Not sure where the XF rub someone sees here but I’d call it AU from the pics. I honestly cannot see any rub on the coin. The pics aren’t the best so grading it is impossible.
The bitterness of "Poor Quality" is remembered long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.
@BillJones said:
That 1804 half eagle ($5 gold) looks to be a stunning coin from those pictures. That one would be well worth the grading fees.
So who can I get in contact with in the Pennsylvania area? Thank you. I mean I can take it to New York city or something if I have to...
I’m from Erie. If you’re not too far from there, Dempsey and Baxter is one of the most reputable coin dealers in the state. Dealt with them since I was about 10 years old.
@PQueue said:
Your Half Eagle is BD-2, an R-4+. On the Obverse, note the blunt 1 (missing top left flag), bisecting vertical crack through 0 in date into bust. On the Reverse the first A in America touches feather 3 & barely touches feather 4, as well as the bisecting reverse crack through the E of America to the wing.
Can someone translate this to English for me, lol? Thanks....
They are just identifying a known die that matches yours, which is a good thing, and providing an idea as to rarity based on a particular scale. I don't fully understand it ether, but it is all good news.
Even if you did not want to sell it, you should still get it authenticated/graded so you do not repeat this process in the future.
I don't know how you store the coin but it is loose in the photos. It needs to be in an appropriate holder to protect it.
I'm back to asking if it is worthwhile just to send it to an auction house that will either get it graded or have "all the right clients" that could buy it alone.
@MsMorrisine said:
I'm back to asking if it is worthwhile just to send it to an auction house that will either get it graded or have "all the right clients" that could buy it alone.
This most likely is the way to go. Others here can recommend a couple auction houses.
They do all the work, all the right buyers will know about the sale, and it is the best chance to get the coin good exposure.
If you just want to hand-carry it to a sale and be done with it, contact @MFeld, and he'll give you the names of dealers to work with, as he stated on page 1. The coin will eventually be sent out for grading by whomever buys it, and their offer will be such that they can still make money if it grades at the low end of their expectations. If you want to participate in further upside potential, you'll have to send it for grading before selling it, or consign it to an auction company that will get it graded for you, which also means sending it somewhere and waiting for the sale and proceeds.
@Two_Bit_Tommy .... Welcome aboard ... and what an entrance. That is a very nice gold coin. Good luck with finding a dealer. Your highest return would be to get it graded first. Cheers, RickO
@PQueue said:
Your Half Eagle is BD-2, an R-4+. On the Obverse, note the blunt 1 (missing top left flag), bisecting vertical crack through 0 in date into bust. On the Reverse the first A in America touches feather 3 & barely touches feather 4, as well as the bisecting reverse crack through the E of America to the wing.
Can someone translate this to English for me, lol? Thanks....
Okay, here goes.
Early U.S. coins were made with hand made dies. For that reason, each die is a little different. The early U.S. gold coins were no exception. Some collectors try to assemble sets of these die varieties. Large cents, minted from 1793 to 1857, are the most popular.
A number of die variety studies for early U.S. gold coins have been written over the years. The most current was put together by coin dealer John W. Dannreuther who used research conducted by the late Harry W. Bass, Jr. who was an eminent collector.
Bass came from a family who made their fortune in oil, and he was highly successful in building upon that business. He had the funds to collect these scare and expensive coins by die variety.
Here is the cover of the book.
And here is the first page in the book that covers the coin you have.
I hope this has helped to de-mystify the situation for you.
The importance of doing this type of research is that it helps to prove that the piece is genuine. New, undiscovered varieties might exist, but if a variety has already been verified, it makes the case that the coin is real.
Retired dealer and avid collector of U.S. type coins, 19th century presidential campaign medalets and selected medals. In recent years I have been working on a set of British coins - at least one coin from each king or queen who issued pieces that are collectible. I am also collecting at least one coin for each Roman emperor from Julius Caesar to ... ?
For someone new, it is very understandable to be hesitant about sending something this valuable to a company you don't know in the mail, etc. Do what makes you feel comfortable, but note that collectors send coins of this value and MUCH more via Registered Mail and such to PCGS and NGC among others ALL the time. These companies handle and grade coins worth millions of dollars. Registered Mail is NOT the same as just buying insurance on a parcel. Registered Mail requires special forms, special tape, etc. and has an insurance limit of $50,000. You will realize the highest return by getting the coin graded directly from PCGS or NGC, and then searching 'sold' auction listings. Price guides are worthless (unless based on real auctions) - only auction sold prices will provide a real value range. Good luck with the process. You can submit the coin on your own to one of the primary grading companies.
You might get the best results if you have the coin graded by PCGS.
Retired dealer and avid collector of U.S. type coins, 19th century presidential campaign medalets and selected medals. In recent years I have been working on a set of British coins - at least one coin from each king or queen who issued pieces that are collectible. I am also collecting at least one coin for each Roman emperor from Julius Caesar to ... ?
now would you all suggest sending it to an auction house and let them get it graded or grade it then send it to an auction house?
The OP says it’s a family heirloom so I doubt that he would want to sell it. I could be wrong though.
Due to Governor Wolf's covid closers ruining my business and my life I am in some financial hardship... Its for sale.
If you are looking to sell it, the easiest route is to have the auction house get it graded and then put it in an auction for you. However if you don't want to ship it, maybe Stack's in NY? If Heritage is passing through, they could maybe pick it up. @MFeld might put you in touch with them.
I don't know that GC will pick up anything on the East Coast for such a small consignment. But @ianrussell can advise.
What a great coin. Sorry to see you have to consider selling it. There is some great advice here. MFeld is a man I would listen to, among many others that have replied to this post.
If you have a month or two I would look to buy a membership to PCGS and send it Registered mail there for grading and slabbing in a protective holder, especially if you plan to keep it. If you are looking for a quicker sale then maybe one of the auction sites. But if grading and slabbing will happen it will take some time no mater what way you go.
Comments
I think you are looking at 1804 $10 eagle prices, this is a half eagle as pointed out by @BillJones
If I had to grade it I would say 50-53 comparing to past auctions. Still puts it around $8-$10k-ish range.
Collector, occasional seller
Then get in your car and drive on out here to California. That’s where you’ll find PCGS. Make a road trip out of it. The weather is perfect for that right now😊
Ooops...You are right...I was looking at Eagle pricing!
The coin is valuable indeed (if genuine) but those prices are for an eagle and this appears to be a small 8 half eagle.
I stand corrected. I was looking at Eagle pricing! Sorry!
D'oh! It's a half eagle! The OP originally posted it was an eagle and so that is what I was basing my guess on with respect to the stars! Ugh. Yes, the stars on the obverse look good for a half eagle...
In honor of the memory of Cpl. Michael E. Thompson
OOPS
Fooled me too as the OP did say eagle.
Oh my!!!!!!!!!
What a pleasant surprise!
This is one of those things that really adds some zing to ones day, and
this- a great forum!
Just stunning!
Happy, humble, honored and proud recipient of the “You Suck” award 10/22/2014
Sorry to break it to you but if you want top $ you will have to "send it" somewhere - to be authenticated/graded. Otherwise, you will be selling to a local dealer who will be happy to offer a much lower amount for an ungraded coin.
It's a beautiful Half Eagle regardless, and still potentially worth a nice chunk of money. Worthy of grading by PCGS.
Did not see this coming... nice!
I have mailed watches, coins, cards, cameras across the country using USPS registered mail. No issues.
BST: KindaNewish (3/21/21), WQuarterFreddie (3/30/21), Meltdown (4/6/21), DBSTrader2 (5/5/21) AKA- unclemonkey on Blow Out
Would the rim ding prevent a straight grade?
I am not an expert on these but I do see several things that would make me raise an eyebrow.
Also looks like the reverse crack may be from the 1803.
Here's a comparison obv with a CoinFacts photo.
Jim
When a man who is honestly mistaken hears the truth, he will either quit being mistaken or cease to be honest....Abraham Lincoln
Patriotism is supporting your country all the time, and your government when it deserves it.....Mark Twain
Your Half Eagle is BD-2, an R-4+. On the Obverse, note the blunt 1 (missing top left flag), bisecting vertical crack through 0 in date into bust. On the Reverse the first A in America touches feather 3 & barely touches feather 4, as well as the bisecting reverse crack through the E of America to the wing.
ah
now would you all suggest sending it to an auction house and let them get it graded or grade it then send it to an auction house?
No need to worry. As @PQueue pointed out, this coin is BD-2 variety, all of the die cracks and anomalies previously cited match later die states of the variety. I am quite sure that the coin is genuine.
The OP says it’s a family heirloom so I doubt that he would want to sell it. I could be wrong though.
Dang, that is sweet!
Congratulations on owning a stunning example of this type.
At first, I thought the rims were too pronounced, but upon further reflection (and the comments of experts here), I agree with others; it is genuine and XF45+.
Sounds like you’ve done your homework. Without verifying yet it sounds right.
Thank you. A die pairing would clear up everything I was seeing.
Upon further review I believe it is genuine.
THIS IS WHAT YOU NEED TO DO.
bob
misread.
not looking to sell yet...
I'd absolutely get it graded.
it's protected and with a grade attached to it, it would be easier to have an idea of its value and an easier sell.
Not sure where the XF rub someone sees here but I’d call it AU from the pics. I honestly cannot see any rub on the coin. The pics aren’t the best so grading it is impossible.
I’m from Erie. If you’re not too far from there, Dempsey and Baxter is one of the most reputable coin dealers in the state. Dealt with them since I was about 10 years old.
BHNC #248 … 130 and counting.
They are just identifying a known die that matches yours, which is a good thing, and providing an idea as to rarity based on a particular scale. I don't fully understand it ether, but it is all good news.
Even if you did not want to sell it, you should still get it authenticated/graded so you do not repeat this process in the future.
I don't know how you store the coin but it is loose in the photos. It needs to be in an appropriate holder to protect it.
PM sent. Check your mail on the forum.
That is completely understandable.
I'm back to asking if it is worthwhile just to send it to an auction house that will either get it graded or have "all the right clients" that could buy it alone.
This most likely is the way to go. Others here can recommend a couple auction houses.
They do all the work, all the right buyers will know about the sale, and it is the best chance to get the coin good exposure.
If you just want to hand-carry it to a sale and be done with it, contact @MFeld, and he'll give you the names of dealers to work with, as he stated on page 1. The coin will eventually be sent out for grading by whomever buys it, and their offer will be such that they can still make money if it grades at the low end of their expectations. If you want to participate in further upside potential, you'll have to send it for grading before selling it, or consign it to an auction company that will get it graded for you, which also means sending it somewhere and waiting for the sale and proceeds.
Keeper of the VAM Catalog • Professional Coin Imaging • Prime Number Set • World Coins in Early America • British Trade Dollars • Variety Attribution
@Two_Bit_Tommy .... Welcome aboard ... and what an entrance. That is a very nice gold coin. Good luck with finding a dealer. Your highest return would be to get it graded first. Cheers, RickO
Okay, here goes.
Early U.S. coins were made with hand made dies. For that reason, each die is a little different. The early U.S. gold coins were no exception. Some collectors try to assemble sets of these die varieties. Large cents, minted from 1793 to 1857, are the most popular.
A number of die variety studies for early U.S. gold coins have been written over the years. The most current was put together by coin dealer John W. Dannreuther who used research conducted by the late Harry W. Bass, Jr. who was an eminent collector.
Bass came from a family who made their fortune in oil, and he was highly successful in building upon that business. He had the funds to collect these scare and expensive coins by die variety.
Here is the cover of the book.
And here is the first page in the book that covers the coin you have.
I hope this has helped to de-mystify the situation for you.
The importance of doing this type of research is that it helps to prove that the piece is genuine. New, undiscovered varieties might exist, but if a variety has already been verified, it makes the case that the coin is real.
Contact David Kahn from Maryland https://www.davidkahnrarecoins.com/
Early American Copper, Bust and Seated.
For someone new, it is very understandable to be hesitant about sending something this valuable to a company you don't know in the mail, etc. Do what makes you feel comfortable, but note that collectors send coins of this value and MUCH more via Registered Mail and such to PCGS and NGC among others ALL the time. These companies handle and grade coins worth millions of dollars. Registered Mail is NOT the same as just buying insurance on a parcel. Registered Mail requires special forms, special tape, etc. and has an insurance limit of $50,000. You will realize the highest return by getting the coin graded directly from PCGS or NGC, and then searching 'sold' auction listings. Price guides are worthless (unless based on real auctions) - only auction sold prices will provide a real value range. Good luck with the process. You can submit the coin on your own to one of the primary grading companies.
and while seeking advice - register mail..... what $$ insurance to place on it?
You might get the best results if you have the coin graded by PCGS.
If you are looking to sell it, the easiest route is to have the auction house get it graded and then put it in an auction for you. However if you don't want to ship it, maybe Stack's in NY? If Heritage is passing through, they could maybe pick it up. @MFeld might put you in touch with them.
I don't know that GC will pick up anything on the East Coast for such a small consignment. But @ianrussell can advise.
I 100% agree.
I am in the wrong family.
Here is the coinfacts page - sadly, to maximize sale price would take more time like weeks to months
https://pcgs.com/coinfacts/coin/1804-5-small-8/8085
I’d just like to say hooray for the day a new member posts asking advice about a coin and it turns out to be an awesome one! No parking lot in sight!
A reputable dealer SHOULD give him just a small percentage less than he would get at auction and it would be instant cash.
BHNC #248 … 130 and counting.
What a great coin. Sorry to see you have to consider selling it. There is some great advice here. MFeld is a man I would listen to, among many others that have replied to this post.
If you have a month or two I would look to buy a membership to PCGS and send it Registered mail there for grading and slabbing in a protective holder, especially if you plan to keep it. If you are looking for a quicker sale then maybe one of the auction sites. But if grading and slabbing will happen it will take some time no mater what way you go.