Is there a date/mintmark that you are intimidated by in a certain series you collect?
Even though I am collecting Morgan/Vams right now and there is a HUGE attraction for many collectors for the first year(1878). it is very intimidating to me. Always has been. P and CC specifically. I have "dabbled" with the S mints but in no way am I comfortable with them. Anyone else have a particular year or mintmark that you try to avoid? 
Comments
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I don't think I understand this one.
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I try not to be intimidated by inanimate objects
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Bad transactions with : nobody to date
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@DIMEMAN said:
I don't think I understand this one.Sorry. This may help. Here are just some possibilities for the P mint:
1) 8 Tail Feathers
2) 7/8 Tail Feathers, Long Nock, Parallel Arrow Feathers
-7/0
-7/3
-7/4
-7/5
-7/73) 7 Tail Feathers, B1 Long Nock, Parallel Arrow Feathers
4) 7 Tail Feathers, B2 Short Nock, Parallel Arrow Feathers
-b2a
-b2b
-b2c
-b2d
-b2e
-b2f
-b2g5) 7 Tail Feathers, Slanted Arrow Feathers, Reverse of 79
-C1
-C2
-C3Yes, I have read the big Vam book many times and I have a basic understanding of these. And for the Vamworld folks, such as @messydesk @CascadeChris @AUandAG @ifthevamzarockin and many others, it's probably simple and everyday common knowledge to identify these. It's just been a difficult year for me to attribute. 1878-CC is not this involved, it just seems to get thrown out unfairly by default!
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Lately, it’s been W’s.
Not really intimidated, but want to conquer.
Snagged a 1999-W 1/10 AGE unp PF die. Then these fangled W modern cents and now quarters are piquing my interest.
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Not sure about intimidated but I don't like to mess with the 1921 scribbles.
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1799 large cent.....fakes abound, and even the junkers are pricy.
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I considered assembling a date set of large cents, but the 1799 and, to a lesser extent, the 1804, tell me to forget it. The reason is I don’t collect really low grade material.
Retired dealer and avid collector of U.S. type coins, 19th century presidential campaign medalets and selected medals. In recent years I have been working on a set of British coins - at least one coin from each king or queen who issued pieces that are collectible. I am also collecting at least one coin for each Roman emperor from Julius Caesar to ... ?1 -
@Walkerguy21D said:
1799 large cent.....fakes abound, and even the junkers are pricy.Yes, I have seen “bargain driven” dealers pay $1,600 for raw junker 1799 large cents. They go by the die clip on the reverse. What’s a date? These things don’t have one, which is too far gone for me.
Retired dealer and avid collector of U.S. type coins, 19th century presidential campaign medalets and selected medals. In recent years I have been working on a set of British coins - at least one coin from each king or queen who issued pieces that are collectible. I am also collecting at least one coin for each Roman emperor from Julius Caesar to ... ?3 -
The 1827 capped bust quarter. I just can't seem to find one I like.
JH
Proof Buffalo Registry Set
Capped Bust Quarters Registry Set
Proof Walking Liberty Halves Registry Set1 -
1794 Dr Bust $1/2
Frank
BHNC #2031 -
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If I said what it is, I would just be making it harder to find one.
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The 1916/16 in the Buffalo nickel series. I used to have a VF but had to sell it 20 years ago for home improvement. I'm currently looking for a VG-F with a clear and complete date.
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54-S half eagle. Might as well admit to yourself right from the beginning that only the most wealthy can even dream of it . 4 Known. And then you have the 1875P following it right up. 10ish known.
Basically you need 1 million to seriously consider the set in XF-AU.
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1933 Double Eagle, 1913 V Nickel, Brasher Doubloon, the list just goes on and on... :'(
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1878 Philly dollars are a study all their own.
Just dig in and go for it!1 -
The expensive one?
Or the "difficult to attribute" one?
Or the "difficult to authenticate" one?
They are all somewhat correlated.
1. Expensive attracts counterfeiting
2. Expensive varieties make you look for lower grade examples, that can be a lot more difficult to attribute.
... etc.2 -
I am not intimidated by round metal disks.
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I don't know if I am 'intimidated' but the 1921-S will be challenging. Finding a nice example in 63 may prove difficult. If I can't find what I like, then I may decide to go after an AU 58, but that may not be any easier. If I am patient; I am sure I will find a suitable example for my set, eventually, but I don't expect it to be uninvolved. Just remember that persistence and diligence are the brother and sister of good luck.
Sometimes, it’s better to be LUCKY than good. 🍀 🍺👍
My Full Walker Registry Set (1916-1947):
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@coinbuf said:
I am not intimidated by round metal disks.Not even Captain America's shield?
"People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." - Geo. Orwell1 -
93s
The whole worlds off its rocker, buy Gold™.
BOOMIN!™
Wooooha! Did someone just say it's officially "TACO™" Tuesday????
Retiring at 55, what day is today?
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I don't have an answer......but I think this is an interesting, outside the box question.
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If you are intimidated by any coin, you should seriously consider finding a new hobby.
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire1 -
@PerryHall said:
If you are intimidated by any coin, you should seriously consider finding a new hobby.Ok come on, you know what I mean!! Lol. Maybe I should have used a different word? Perplexed? Bemused? Puzzled? I didn't realize I was asking a question that was that far outside the box. Thanks for the replies.
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No don’t close it! Those of us that get your intent are enjoying the more thoughtful posts.
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@fc said:
54-S half eagle. Might as well admit to yourself right from the beginning that only the most wealthy can even dream of it . 4 Known. And then you have the 1875P following it right up. 10ish known.Basically you need 1 million to seriously consider the set in XF-AU.
You beat me by about 6 hours! Might have to settle for ones from China.
it's crackers to slip a rozzer the dropsy in snide
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The Small Eagle Draped Bust half dollar. It likely will be the doom of my type set.
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CC Seated Quarters.
They’re either a) “The Ones”, ‘70 & ’71
b) priced kinda like “The Ones” but not, ‘72
or c) “Not Even The Ones” all the rest.
So I avoid them in favor of S mints.We're all born MS70. I'm about a Fine 15 right now.1 -
@DIMEMAN said:
I don't think I understand this one.Currently I am collecting high-grade 1934-47 Walkers. (I call this the extended short set; I like the 1934-40 dates more than the short set dates.)
The 1938-D I find intimidating in high grades due to its price; the others are more attainable.
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Okay. I'll play along. Any key date coin that's raw such as the 1909SVDB cent or the 1916D dime. These coins are very heavily counterfeited and many are quite good. Certain raw classic US gold coins fall in the same category. Some coins should be bought in top tier slabs unless you an expert authenticator.
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire2 -
Not necessarily a date/mintmark, but I'm intimidated by red large cents since a lot of them have been doctored and have turned in the holder. I prefer coins in old holders as a sign of stability for these.
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@Zoins said:
Not necessarily a date/mintmark, but I'm intimidated by red large cents since a lot of them have been doctored and have turned in the holder. I prefer coins in old holders as a sign of stability for these.Good point. There"s a good reason the grading services no longer guarantee the assigned color designation they give to the coins they grade.
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire3 -
Intimidated by a date or mint mark, or combination of both. Never. By the cost of aquiring something key or rare-Yes!
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I do not get into detailed areas such as VAM's .... just far too time consuming as well as becoming a 'money pit'...The hobby, for me, is all about enjoyment of coins - their designs, history and quality. I know others really enjoy these areas of numismatics, that is great and it certainly adds dimensions to the hobby. We each have our interests, and that is good....Cheers, RickO
1
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