I am not a professional grader, so the input from @Insider2 would be the answer. I use regular lighting until the details are small.... then a Surefire flashlight with my magnifier usually reveals all I need to know. Cheers, RickO
I use a 20W halogen light. It gives you a single pinpoint source of light.
They no longer make this particular model, even though they sold millions of them back in the day at Staples and elsewhere.
So -- whenever I see one (which is very rarely) I buy it. I have a few spares just in case.
I also note a few other professionals using the same exact lamp, so I am not alone.
Dave Wnuck. Redbook contributor; long time PNG Member; listed on the PCGS Board of Experts. PM me with your email address to receive my e-newsletter, and visit DaveWcoins.com Find me on eBay at davewcoins
Ideally, there is an optimum ratio between the diameter of light source and coin that creates maximum visibility of detail for coin authentication and/or grading. Once this ratio is determined, the ideal would be to maintain the same ratio for all coin and medal sizes - something that is probably impractical for TPGs and others.
The color of the light should be standard daylight, 5500K. This is a flat spectrum best for objective examination. To be clear, you want to use full spectrum bulbs with a color temperature of 5500K and a Color Rendering Index (CRI) of 96% (or as close as you can get to it; an 80% CRI does not work....and no fluorescent is full spectrum.)
The above being noted, I've never seen any TPG or dealer use any of these consistently, although I've used a large auction company's 5500K source and found it excellent.
It might be helpful to one or two here -- this company has full spectrum LED lights, and also, at the bottom of their page under Resources, comparison tables with [Dr. John] Ott and other brand lights. higher CRI is better. Not an endorsement, just a link:
@DaveWcoins said:
I use a 20W halogen light. It gives you a single pinpoint source of light.
They no longer make this particular model, even though they sold millions of them back in the day at Staples and elsewhere.
So -- whenever I see one (which is very rarely) I buy it. I have a few spares just in case.
I also note a few other professionals using the same exact lamp, so I am not alone.
I use a 20w halogen at my desk and for pre-show buying. At the shows I use a 100w incandescent. I agree with Dave, these halogen lamps have become extremely difficult to find. I also buy them whenever I see them. I scored three off eBay from a seller in England and it made my week.
there are a lot of options. I tend to think that fluorescent should be avoided and the best choices are strong incandescent or a halogen. I think the harder halogen might be best for Proofs. whatever the choice I think that a static set-up is probably just as important.
I agree! Rookies should NEVER, EVER, try to grade a coin using florescent light. What you see will cause significant confusion. Additionally, what you don't see will usually cause significant grading errors.
They are trying to SELL that line of business, but can't find a buyer.
"It's an industrywide problem driven by low prices and the popularity of LED lights that last for decades, limiting the need to replace them.
"It has not been a particularly good business to be in," said RBC analyst Deane Dray."
Used a Halogen with a diffuser for quite awhile. hurt my eyes. Very harsh shows way more then you want to or need to see
comparing with the naked eye viewing- causes you to not like many nice coins.
Plus the light reflects off the coin thru your loupe into your eyes. some say halogen can cause cataracts to grow.
some of these harsh lights to me are analogous to using a 30X loupe way overkill and not necessary.
use a good acromatic/aplanatic loupe, tip and tilt your coin in a decent incandescent light the higher color temp you can find
and tolerate. I have used an OSRAM 60 W 5000k led bulb and its hard on the eyes and runs very temperature hot on the ceramic base heat sink trying to keep the internal electronic AC to DC circuitry cool. ie: mini dropdown transformer, rectifiers , filters and regulator cool inside. LEDS run on D.C not A.C. current.
saw the ceramic base open on an LED bulb and be surprised at the electronics inside.
Comments
Stockpiled 100w incandescents?
I used Ott lights
Latin American Collection
Type of lighting is not an issue when imaging, it's all about the technique and color correction ( AKA grey scale)
75W or 100W incandescent is the generally recommended light.
I am not a professional grader, so the input from @Insider2 would be the answer. I use regular lighting until the details are small.... then a Surefire flashlight with my magnifier usually reveals all I need to know. Cheers, RickO
I use a 20W halogen light. It gives you a single pinpoint source of light.
They no longer make this particular model, even though they sold millions of them back in the day at Staples and elsewhere.
So -- whenever I see one (which is very rarely) I buy it. I have a few spares just in case.
I also note a few other professionals using the same exact lamp, so I am not alone.
Ideally, there is an optimum ratio between the diameter of light source and coin that creates maximum visibility of detail for coin authentication and/or grading. Once this ratio is determined, the ideal would be to maintain the same ratio for all coin and medal sizes - something that is probably impractical for TPGs and others.
The color of the light should be standard daylight, 5500K. This is a flat spectrum best for objective examination. To be clear, you want to use full spectrum bulbs with a color temperature of 5500K and a Color Rendering Index (CRI) of 96% (or as close as you can get to it; an 80% CRI does not work....and no fluorescent is full spectrum.)
The above being noted, I've never seen any TPG or dealer use any of these consistently, although I've used a large auction company's 5500K source and found it excellent.
use Ottlites flexible goosenecks for everything, checking and taking photos.
That’s what I like to use, and I do have them stockpiled.
Doggedly collecting coins of the Central American Republic.
Visit the Society of US Pattern Collectors at USPatterns.com.
Me too regarding bulbs. What about fixtures? Anyone know of a source?
My 1866 Philly Mint Set
Sears, Office Max, Office Depot, Staples, Lowe's, Home Depot, & especially GW's!
It might be helpful to one or two here -- this company has full spectrum LED lights, and also, at the bottom of their page under Resources, comparison tables with [Dr. John] Ott and other brand lights. higher CRI is better. Not an endorsement, just a link:
https://www.fullspectrumsolutions.com/collections/full-spectrum-led-bulbs
I think I'll stick with GE.
100w incandescent for my amateur set up
"Inspiration exists, but it has to find you working" Pablo Picasso
I use a 20w halogen at my desk and for pre-show buying. At the shows I use a 100w incandescent. I agree with Dave, these halogen lamps have become extremely difficult to find. I also buy them whenever I see them. I scored three off eBay from a seller in England and it made my week.
Being unprofessional, I use a Bic lighter.
there are a lot of options. I tend to think that fluorescent should be avoided and the best choices are strong incandescent or a halogen. I think the harder halogen might be best for Proofs. whatever the choice I think that a static set-up is probably just as important.
I agree! Rookies should NEVER, EVER, try to grade a coin using florescent light. What you see will cause significant confusion. Additionally, what you don't see will usually cause significant grading errors.
Kind of interested in opinions on the lighting type that seems to never be talked about, but is becoming more and more prevalent in desk lamps:
LED lights!!
Good? Bad? Depends? Guys using Bic lighters need to know....
Bunsen burner is not the correct answer.
How about a Kerosene lamp?
Donato
Donato's Complete US Type Set ---- Donato's Dansco 7070 Modified Type Set ---- Donato's Basic U.S. Coin Design Set
Successful transactions: Shrub68 (Jim), MWallace (Mike)
Only for colonials.
As I posted in the past, a true finalizer does not need lights, those are for sissies.
.

.
.
Some coins I see, I wonder if they were graded under a tin-punched candle lantern.
(NGC, I mean
)
LOL, You mean CU Rule#4?
An interesting little side trip for our incandescent light fans.
GE can't get rid of its light bulb business
http://money.cnn.com/2018/05/22/news/companies/general-electric-light-bulb-sale/index.html
They are trying to SELL that line of business, but can't find a buyer.
"It's an industrywide problem driven by low prices and the popularity of LED lights that last for decades, limiting the need to replace them.
"It has not been a particularly good business to be in," said RBC analyst Deane Dray."
No Jansjos?
BST transactions: dbldie55, jayPem, 78saen, UltraHighRelief, nibanny, liefgold, FallGuy, lkeigwin, mbogoman, Sandman70gt, keets, joeykoins, ianrussell (@GC), EagleEye, ThePennyLady, GRANDAM, Ilikecolor, Gluggo, okiedude, Voyageur, LJenkins11, fastfreddie, ms70, pursuitofliberty, ZoidMeister,Coin Finder, GotTheBug, edwardjulio, Coinnmore, Nickpatton, Namvet69,...
I like good LED lights
TTT
My 1866 Philly Mint Set
https://blog.littletoncoin.com/tips-from-the-pros-on-lights-for-coin-collecting/
Found this. Hope it sheds light on the subject.
Thanks for the thread bump. Interesting topic.
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Used a Halogen with a diffuser for quite awhile. hurt my eyes. Very harsh shows way more then you want to or need to see
comparing with the naked eye viewing- causes you to not like many nice coins.
Plus the light reflects off the coin thru your loupe into your eyes. some say halogen can cause cataracts to grow.
some of these harsh lights to me are analogous to using a 30X loupe way overkill and not necessary.
use a good acromatic/aplanatic loupe, tip and tilt your coin in a decent incandescent light the higher color temp you can find
and tolerate. I have used an OSRAM 60 W 5000k led bulb and its hard on the eyes and runs very temperature hot on the ceramic base heat sink trying to keep the internal electronic AC to DC circuitry cool. ie: mini dropdown transformer, rectifiers , filters and regulator cool inside. LEDS run on D.C not A.C. current.
saw the ceramic base open on an LED bulb and be surprised at the electronics inside.